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Messages - cobbledik

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1
Big Wall Forum / Re: Schedule of Offenses?
« on: November 11, 2015, 01:43:42 pm »
Wow. Lowest common denominator I guess, not that bat hooks are that confidence inspiring

2
Big Wall Forum / Re: Valley Season over?
« on: November 08, 2015, 06:04:22 pm »
The valley season is now officially over.

3
Big Wall Forum / Re: Schedule of Offenses?
« on: November 08, 2015, 06:03:32 pm »
I think clance is who you are talk to about bathrooms on aurora

4
Big Wall Forum / Re: Schedule of Offenses?
« on: November 08, 2015, 08:31:19 am »
And of course, drilling convenience "anchor" bolts in the middle of a free pitch for aid practice should probably be placed on the list as well.

5
Big Wall Forum / Re: Valley Season over?
« on: November 02, 2015, 09:36:37 am »
Next weekend is the final push for the project, THEN the season is over. Back to the pins after that

6
Big Wall Forum / Re: Schedule of Offenses?
« on: October 29, 2015, 10:26:20 am »
Forrest nuts made from softer material were used as mashies. No date for you.

7
Big Wall Forum / Re: Schedule of Offenses?
« on: October 26, 2015, 12:50:11 pm »
Mitigating risk to partner is key. I've riveted around loose blocks that might have gone but also might have killed my belayer. The best character of any climb is when everyone comes home in one piece.

8
Big Wall Forum / Re: Schedule of Offenses?
« on: October 26, 2015, 08:23:21 am »
Let me rephrase it munge,

"...character and pucker factor of a pitch (of which character is 90% of the importance and pucker is 10% of the importance. - or better yet, just character of a pitch because pucker factor is part of character and the effect of the word pucker to be considered manufacturing experience is too juicy to let go of and clouds the intent of the post)"


9
Big Wall Forum / Re: Schedule of Offenses?
« on: October 24, 2015, 04:06:34 pm »
Sort of. I'm saying that the experience of climbing the route has to be taken into account as much as sustainability is. A string of copperheads with a trenched head in the middle is better for the user group(faist and climbers that follow) than one with a bolt or rivet in the middle (which significantly changed the character and pucker factor of the pitch).

The argument in favor of rivet over trenched head because the head will eventually blow and thus need a rivet can just as easily be thought of as, trench the head so the experience is there and when it does blow then that's sad and the community will place the rivet at that time.

Because let's be honest here. Brutally honest. 99% of bigwall routes being put up now will never be climbed again or will be climbed very few times before fading into obscurity. Sustainability differences between a rivet and a trenched head for a route that has very little chance of becoming popular are moot at best. And if the argument is that a more sustainable route that is put up in the most impeccable possible method will become popular, then I hate to break it to you, most bigwall climbers today don't give a rats ass about how good the route is, they care if anyone they consider cool has climbed the route and if anyone will recognize the name of the route when they spray about it at the bridge or at the water cooler. And if you think to yourself, well I  care so that must mean something, remember that the mere fact that you're reading this website places you out of the population of most current bigwall climbers.

Modern Bigwall FA's and their effect upon the Rock is about as relevant and effectfull in the grand scope of things as whether you decide to pee on the rock or bring your off the wall with you after climbing any route that's not one of the trade routes.

10
Big Wall Forum / Re: Schedule of Offenses?
« on: October 23, 2015, 08:11:42 pm »
Sustainability must be balanced with the experience of the user group otherwise the point of starting the first placement off the ground is moot.

11
Big Wall Forum / Re: Schedule of Offenses?
« on: October 23, 2015, 11:16:54 am »
A string of proper heads with a single blank section where you choose trench or rivet, the trenched head fits the character of the pitch more than a rivet.

12
Big Wall Forum / Re: Far end hauling
« on: October 19, 2015, 09:11:35 pm »
Bump for a question on the far end hauling thread:

When far end hauling, are you always jugging on a separate free hanging line? i.e. do you normally use the lead line (since you've already cleaned the pitch and it's available) and toss it down to jug next to the bag set up on a far end hauler?

Yes.

13
Big Wall Forum / Re: silent partner
« on: October 08, 2015, 08:43:53 am »
I've taken 30-40' falls on my SP never a problem and easy to release. eKat on ST is one of the developers of the SP, hit her up if you want more tech info.

14
Big Wall Forum / Re: silent partner
« on: October 07, 2015, 05:13:07 pm »
The SP always catches you. The last thing you want soloing is to be worried about your gear. Think of the extra expense of the SP in terms of your focus while climbing. The cost:benefit ratio is well worth it.

15
Big Wall Forum / Re: Fa grading question.
« on: October 06, 2015, 05:09:56 pm »
The nailing is bomber #3 peckers. A1 as long as you have real swage attached to them or use tomahawks.

16
Big Wall Forum / Re: silent partner
« on: October 06, 2015, 05:08:02 pm »
Get a silent partner no need to worry about mods or how you fall. It just works.

17
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet replacement ins and outs?
« on: September 29, 2015, 01:26:03 pm »
Too soft at 24k

18
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet replacement ins and outs?
« on: September 29, 2015, 11:03:09 am »
""Machine heads are bolts"  Machine heads are not bolts."
This is true if you disregard what the thing truthfully is, and consider only how it's used for climbing, but people often don't segregate the two meanings, which causes confusion like in the post I responded to. But never mind my semantics.

Semantics is important because it deals with how the meaning of your words are to be understood be the receiver. Separating "hardware store" meaning from "climbing" meaning is always fun because it causes discussion, but you're then taking the language out of its context, which is pointless to the goal of understanding what is being said. If this was a hardware store forum, or a construction forum, or a <3rivets forum the technical definition of a rivet in a hardware store/construction/<3rivets is relevant. Since this is a climbing forum, the contextual understanding of the use of the term is built into the assumed understanding of the language. trying to cram one into the other is disingenuous at best.

Let's be truthful. No one is attaching sheet metal to anything with a rivet in a climbing context, so we throw that specific definition out.

Truthfully, the term of "rivet" is a catch-all in climbing for a type of "metal in rock" as Mucci so deftly put it. That type? This is where the truth comes into play.

Truthfully, the contextual understanding of the different groups of metal in rock are progression versus protection which you conveniently disregarded.

rivets are progression
bolts are protection

what makes the distinction? active force against the rock via compression of expansion.

We then go even further with the level of active force.

Do machine heads have active force? sure, the threads get jammed against the shaft BUT the technical term for how much active force would probably be "crappy." Zmac's have active force as well, but just as crappy.

Which is why the ability to catch a fall keeps coming up. progression vs protection.
Protection = Bolt
- split shaft 1/4" buttonhead
- 3/8" expansion bolt
- above without a hanger, bolt.

Progression = Rivet
- machine head
- zmac
- dowel

Ah but wait! "but people often don't segregate the two meanings, which causes confusion like in the post I responded to" Hmmmmm, let's return to the point about context, which is that on a bigwall climbing forum, people may not separate the meanings because they don't need to. The context of the forum defines the meaning as climbing context, not hardware store context.

But what about the bolts without a hanger!?! Aren't rivets just hangerless metal in rock? I understand that inexperienced climbers acting upon what they see rather than an understanding of its use often make this mistake and should be corrected through millions of thread posts. Does this mean that routes like Hurricane Jingus on Falls Wall have rivet belays because those bolts are hangerless? Granted, if you put a shitty wire rivet hanger on the bolts, they might not be good enough to catch a fall, but that's a question of the hanger and not the bolt itself. If I place a 1/2" x 3" expansion bolt in rock and then use a wet spaghetti noodle for the hanger, did I just place a rivet?

Whatever. I'm done and I'm not going to proofread or spellcheck this because i'm at work and I should probably do some of the things that they sort of pay me for.

19
Big Wall Forum / Fa grading question.
« on: September 27, 2015, 10:50:08 am »
Quick question guys,

If you fa a pitch that has some mandatory thin A1 nailing but is primarily thin flake C2 nuts and cams, what is the grade for it? It's not A2 and it's not C2 and conversely, it's not A1 and it's not C1. Normally I would think that most people would say that it's A1 because you can get iron in where the sketchy cams and nuts went but I'm not sure if it would be.

20
Big Wall Forum / Re: quickdraws?
« on: September 03, 2015, 03:58:53 pm »
Alpine draws so you can extend them. I bring about 24. But my cams are all attached to their own biner so I usually won't use all of them.

21
Big Wall Forum / Re: Racking Iron
« on: August 30, 2015, 04:51:57 pm »
I keep my hooks in a chalkbag (I ripped out the lining first) and keep that bag clipped to my left side of my Yates bigwall harness on that pointless hard loop that sticks out. (Unless I'm soloing, then my backup carabiner with my backup loops goes there and my hook bag goes on the left side gear loops)

You MUST string your beaks the way that Mark showed in his picture. The amount of pain and suffering you avoid is unmeasurable. I tend to climb with a minimum of 8 of each sized beak (mostly FAs now, no time for repeating routes unless it's a second ascent) and racking them from the top loop like Mark has shown then allows them to go onto your chest harness and never snag on anything.

There are those (cough cough Mucci cough cough) who will complain about getting beaks into tight corners when they have the added loop on top, but there's two responses to that, #1 If it gets in the way, cut it off. Or #2 I've started using parachute cord for my beak loops which isn't nearly as robust as webbing or cord, but it easily goes flat in those situation where there's a tight placement. I bring extra cord to restring at night any beaks where I cut off the loop or the loop gets damaged.

Oh yeah, and any big hooks can be strung from the top with some tape to hold the loop in place so they'll rack similar to the beaks without any catching as well.

22
Big Wall Forum / Re: Totem Cams
« on: August 25, 2015, 08:15:11 am »
Regular totems are a game changer, blue and yellow are your money size. Totem Basics are great but not a game changer, just a good replacement for an alien (much better than the first run of fixe aliens, not sure about the new fixe evo aliens as I haven't played with them.)

Ps: regular totems are so good that when cmacs outdoor gear lab gave what I considered to be a bogus negative review that wasn't based in anything but looking at them and not really trying then out, I deleted all of my reviews on the site and have never been back.

23
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: El Capitan double bill.
« on: August 13, 2015, 06:45:19 pm »
Crazy pulley action!

24
Big Wall Forum / Re: danger! Pelut is here climb in Yosemite now!!!!!!!!
« on: August 07, 2015, 02:11:48 pm »
Good! The valley need more lead-head ladders to the top of the big stone!

A7+ is out there! Go git it pelut!

25
Big Wall Forum / Re: Capsule style
« on: August 05, 2015, 09:28:28 am »
Jugging 400-600' of rope every morning is good for the soul.

26
Big Wall Forum / Re: New Wall hauling Pulley - Rock Exotica Omni
« on: August 02, 2015, 11:57:14 pm »
That's why I said it wouldn't be valuable to 1:1 guys. For a 2:1, the top pulley in the system doesn't need a progress capture.

27
Big Wall Forum / Re: New Wall hauling device - Rock Exotica Omni
« on: July 29, 2015, 02:18:55 pm »
Looks good for a 2:1 as the upper pulley but not that valuable for you 1:1 guys. Probably overkill in a 2:1 though? For $75 it's more than a normal 2" pulley

28
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet replacement ins and outs?
« on: July 21, 2015, 02:02:47 pm »
My only issue is that a " splitshaft is a BOLT not a rivet, so replacing a machine head with a bolt is obviously more sustainable but changes the placement from a progression piece to a protection piece. This def changes the character of the lead.

Although...

Placing a machine head is good enough to catch a fall for the FA party (if placed well) and over time can become less so. With this thinking, replacing the machine head with a " splitshaft actually does retain the character of the route to the FA experience.

Idk, it's all grey area the longer you think about it

30
Big Wall Forum / Re: Dolt or Heart?
« on: July 11, 2015, 09:54:14 pm »
That is an awesome suggestion, thanks. There is a ledge on p2, I don't see one on the topo? Can you rap easily from Lay Lady Ledge?

At some point, I would still like to do Dolt and/or Freeblast since the Nose and Salathe are on my list of things to do as soon as I feel ready, and it'd be helpful to preview their respective starts.

Ledge on pitch 2 shows up in both topos as a optional belay with a blank circle. (You can see the ledge below me right past the hanging blue cam.)


I know people have retreated to the ground from lay lady via anchors but i don't know how easy or hard it is. There's a pretty extreme traverse in pitch 4 so you'd need to follow other anchors down. You'd need to be ready to leave biners/webbing  unless a team has recently retreated before you get there. (I know I collected quite a few biners and trash webbing on my way up a couple of years ago) 

If you're there for practice and systems, I wouldn't expect to get to Lay Lady Ledge in a day. For a practice run, I'd think in 2 days is a bit much. There's nothing to bivy on without a lede between the middle of pitch 2 and Lay Lady

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