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Messages - mungeclimber

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1
Big Wall Forum / Re: Valley Season over?
« on: November 24, 2015, 11:16:00 pm »
snow hit the valley today. I'm curious how much.

2
Big Wall Forum / Re: Valley Season over?
« on: November 09, 2015, 11:43:46 am »
LOL

done, done and done!

nice job! looking forward to the write up

3
Big Wall Forum / Re: Valley Season over?
« on: November 08, 2015, 12:10:33 pm »
Bosque and Cobble are sending.

 8-)   :mrgreen:

4
Big Wall Forum / Re: Valley Season over?
« on: November 02, 2015, 04:06:48 pm »
definitely!

5
Big Wall Forum / Re: Valley Season over?
« on: November 02, 2015, 09:55:01 am »
we were just commenting on how we hadn't seen you much lately, and for good and sorta obvious reasons. :)

6
Big Wall Forum / Valley Season over?
« on: November 02, 2015, 09:21:18 am »
Ready for walls elsewhere?

Ready for cragging at Jailhouse?


7
Big Wall Forum / Re: Schedule of Offenses?
« on: October 26, 2015, 11:29:16 pm »
Seriously! The one true constant in aid is that you go until you can't go, or drill. And that game is almost intrinsically self driven. the grades come after the fact.

Push a little here, push a little there. Build some skills. Reduce the drills. Make the heads, or end up deadz.


8
Big Wall Forum / Re: Schedule of Offenses?
« on: October 26, 2015, 01:03:13 pm »
oh btw, you're an unethical prick Prod.









 :-D lol

9
Big Wall Forum / Re: Schedule of Offenses?
« on: October 26, 2015, 09:32:12 am »
I'm leaning toward Skull on this one. In a mostly self defined game, solving the problem in your best style, is really what 'character' of the climb becomes. So whether one strings it out, or cuts it down to A3 from A4 on an FA is really just a choice of which rules to apply. Not to get me wrong, there is pride in that sort of self overcoming of stringing it WAY out. The mental discipline, the character of oneself that is shown in the route, the risk placed on the partner and or the responsibility of mitigating risk to the partner are all part of it.

10
Big Wall Forum / Re: Schedule of Offenses?
« on: October 25, 2015, 10:02:44 pm »

I see what you're saying.


Quote
character and pucker factor of the pitch


But not all FAs are going to be danger riddled affairs like cutting edge A4.  So let me pose this; if the pucker factor is a quality to be preserved, why not an enhanced hook? Make it a really shitty enhanced hook so you're damn close to blowing it, and the string of heads?  Well, I think it has to do with not wanting danger as the ultimate goal, otherwise why aren't all routes just hooking affairs?  Sustainability is built into the game. You use stainless steel bolts, no? Why not go cheap? Why not haul off gear and rickety rivets?

Whether a route becomes a classic in 10 years, cannot be known antecedently to the climb.

I'm not suggesting there is a mandate to do a rivet in that case, I'm just suggesting that from one perspective a rivet is just as good as a trenched head, depending on the context.

 




11
Big Wall Forum / Re: Deuce Interview
« on: October 25, 2015, 09:50:18 pm »
Yep.

That type of Walling is the real deal. There is no rescue from there. Yosar isn't going to come pluck you off the wall in that type of action.

True self reliance, AND hanging it out there, just to see if could be done. You just don't know until you get on it. Even then you don't know. But you persevere.

13
Big Wall Forum / Re: Schedule of Offenses?
« on: October 23, 2015, 11:43:41 am »
consistency for consistency sake?  "blank" section seems that a rivet in that case would be more sustainable, sustainability is a laudable goal.

14
Big Wall Forum / Re: Schedule of Offenses?
« on: October 23, 2015, 10:20:19 am »
A small head kit is lighter than a bolt kit. Just a suspicion on my part as a contributing factor for trade routes. 

15
Big Wall Forum / Re: Schedule of Offenses?
« on: October 21, 2015, 10:53:20 pm »
credit goes to those guys on the thread. But it really is an interesting way of looking at it. Sort of intuitive, but hadn't really stack ranked them before. But some things are worse and some are non-issues/nice to haves.

For instance, I don't see a principled basis on which to object to a variation pitch that includes a bolt ladder. A full bolt ladder pitch though is not kosher. There are 'big wall' routes recognized that are a couple of pitch variations with hardware. How to justify the difference? Not sure one can.

The more detail that goes into an ethical scenario, the more the pendulum can swing to the blameworthiness or praiseworthiness of the effort.

the steeped in tradition we can be, the more that ethical pendulum swings toward conserving what he wave since it is a limited resource.



wait, what? I'm a conservative? 

FML

16
Big Wall Forum / Schedule of Offenses?
« on: October 21, 2015, 02:10:16 pm »
an interesting list of ethical offenses with increasing order of impact (or 'offense' importance) was proposed on supertopo recently. Without dipping into the morass on that thread, does the ordering seem right as a general principle?  What mitigating factors are there?

For example, is an enhanced hook placement to replace a trenched head placement more sustainable and thus less blameworthy?


 Upgrading 1/4" bolts in an anchor to 3/8" or 1/2"
 Adding a 2nd, 3rd, 4th belay bolt
 Changing rivets to bolts on an A1 climb
 Adding bolts to an anchor that was previously gear only
 Changing rivets to bolts on an A2 or higher climb
 Changing trenched heads to bolts
 Adding bolts to a bolt ladder to make it less reachy
 Enhancing aid placements
 Adding bolts to a bolt ladder to remove challenges at the start/end of the ladder
 Adding bolts to bypass a free or aid crux
 Chipping free holds

everyone is okay with upgrading most existing anchor bolts with beefier bolts.

everyone is NOT okay with chipping free holds to make the climb go at an easier grade.



Some additional 'offenses' proposed...

 Adding bolts to replace hook moves [as a full retrobolt]

 Adding bolts to bypass entire piton pitches, so they go "clean" [as a variant pitch]

 Adding bolts to bypass wide cracks [as a short section of bolts to bypass a short section of wide]

 Adding bolts to bypass thin cracks, pin scars, or other difficult clean placements [as a short section of bolts to bypass a short section of thin]

 Adding bolts on a free climb to reduce the runouts [full retrobolt without express FA author 'ok']


17
Non Climbing (if you must) / Re: working on some technical issues
« on: October 19, 2015, 08:12:13 am »
She's back on. Nice work Deuce!

18
Big Wall Forum / Re: silent partner
« on: October 05, 2015, 04:20:27 pm »
The Silent Partner instructions are available online. I thought there was a diagram for using the device with a chest harness.

Beyond that I'm pretty sure you don't want to orient the device specifically one way or another. It's not the same mechanical principle involved as, e.g. a grigri which is commonly modified (against mfr instructions).

19
Big Wall Forum / Re: Fa grading question.
« on: October 04, 2015, 10:20:15 pm »
Pink Pussycat used to be A1. First two pieces used to be KBs.

has that gone on Clean gear?

20
Big Wall Forum / Re: Lurking Fear first 3 pitches
« on: October 01, 2015, 11:12:44 pm »
cheat stick?

21
Big Wall Forum / Re: Fa grading question.
« on: September 30, 2015, 12:34:26 pm »
Big Wall Zen Mind = Beginner's Mind  (I'm paraphrasing Shunryu Suzuki. Zen Mind Beginner Mind is actually a really good book)


22
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet replacement ins and outs?
« on: September 29, 2015, 10:29:13 pm »
"New 1.25" split shaft bolt with washers goes in."


why no hanger? I think you told me before... something about that's the piece you used and it didn't have a hanger then, so it didn't get a hanger on replace.


kinda cool, in situ rebolting.

23
Big Wall Forum / Re: Fa grading question.
« on: September 29, 2015, 10:27:05 pm »
that's what I said! lol  8-)


nice, got the Mucci back on the forum too.



24
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet replacement ins and outs?
« on: September 29, 2015, 03:33:55 pm »
we could switch to politics?  :-o

25
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet replacement ins and outs?
« on: September 29, 2015, 01:30:56 pm »
post your testing results or invalid!

;)

26
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet replacement ins and outs?
« on: September 29, 2015, 12:12:10 pm »
aluminum dowels are the golden standard.


Wouldn't a 24kt gold dowel be the standard?  :-P

27
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet replacement ins and outs?
« on: September 28, 2015, 11:50:21 am »
Hangerless Bolt shall be "Mike.'s metal sketchy sticks!"

heheheh

cheers hombre! good to see you back on the boards.

28
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet replacement ins and outs?
« on: September 28, 2015, 11:08:42 am »
Really, we should stop using the term 'rivet' altogether. I can see that.

Heretofore, shall hereafter be:

Machine Head = Machine Head
Rivet = Non existent, except WEML
Bolt = Required discussion of size, age, type, no exceptions.

lol


I <3 ratings discussions!!! :)



29
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet replacement ins and outs?
« on: September 27, 2015, 10:36:30 pm »
My definition is different and based upon the principle of what type of fall it can withstand, in general.


"Machine heads are bolts"  Machine heads are not bolts. A crappy machine head will fail at a much lower rating than a modest solid 3/8 wedge bolt. A large machine head (like the one on Zodiac?), could hold a whip, but that's the exception, no?

3/8" buttonheads are bolts, assuming the rock hasn't cratered on install. I've rebolting one of these in a lodestone and it was a nightmare coming out. Though I don't know what they are rated to.

30
Big Wall Forum / Re: Fa grading question.
« on: September 27, 2015, 10:32:05 pm »
A is for the type of gear (C vs. A)

# is for the hardest move on the pitch (or better yet for the route).


any clarifications go into the pitch by pitch topo or written descriptions.



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