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Messages - *Mucci*

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1
Big Wall Forum / Re: Schedule of Offenses?
« on: November 09, 2015, 11:39:23 am »
Chuck said he drilled on P5 (American Zone?) 3 bathooks up and right after a few hooks.

Troy and him told Peter after they got down what they drilled because they could not find the "natural hooks"


As I remember they had just done a very early ascent of ZM and would have been in very good shape for Aurora which at the time was the 3rd ascent I believe.



3
Big Wall Forum / Re: Schedule of Offenses?
« on: October 29, 2015, 09:05:59 pm »
Yeah Bill Forrest made the flat mashie thing, forgot the name, 70's.

Bridwell has a movie clip in which he states he invented the copperhead for the PO. or ZM I forgot that too.

I would like to know definitively.

4
Big Wall Forum / Re: Schedule of Offenses?
« on: October 26, 2015, 07:08:54 pm »
Quote
In a mostly self defined game, solving the problem in your best style, is really what 'character' of the climb becomes. So whether one strings it out, or cuts it down to A3 from A4 on an FA is really just a choice
%

That you, the leader get to make 100%. 

There Munge, i kicked out the "rules" part mostly because FA'st are generally outcasts that follow no RULEZ  ahhahh.  Perfect description Munge!

I have been on at least 2-3 real deal, modern A4-A5 pitches.  I was the first to climb these features.  I knew they would force me to rise up to the technical portion very quickly, and 6+ hours in maintain a steady head.

I drilled when I had reached my technical limit of climbing.  No rules, nobody telling me to push it, just me making a judgment call.
Those did not garner a A4-A5 rating.  Anybody can argue how many beaks need to be tipped out for A4 all day, but I know how far I pushed and feel that Nothing I have done is bonafide modern A4.  But My A4 is different than the other guys A4, and so on.


Pasting all the heads and beaks, diggin out placements, drilling the odd rivet, and then having to drill at least one fattie at the end of the pitch is all I  know how to do.

Guys are climbing A4 captain routes with >dozen nailed placements. On routes with heads etc..

Hard for me to wrap my head around what "Hard" is these days.

Hot damn I dig this thread!


If I am pasting half a dozen heads, and reach a weird spot, this is the way it goes down.

Try a beak, try it again, bounce  test it really hard.  Beak blows, grab a #2 head a shape it real thin and paste it.(Trademark KD)

Usually I drill when it starts getting all Western up there 8-)





 






5
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet replacement ins and outs?
« on: September 29, 2015, 10:38:59 pm »
Exactly, it was way sketch knowing that the rivet would knott hold a fall as I climbed above.  If that rivet placement had failed on Plaidman, it would have been a 60+ foot fall. 


A bolt, like a fatty 3/8ths with hanger would change the character right there, bigtime. 

Even putting a hanger on the split shaft seemed like a waste, it is a stretcher move I heard..





6
Big Wall Forum / Re: Fa grading question.
« on: September 29, 2015, 10:30:53 pm »
 :-D

I want to take such a long break, I can re-learn the fundamentals..


7
Big Wall Forum / Re: Fa grading question.
« on: September 29, 2015, 09:26:18 pm »
I rate the aid part and clean part separately on each pitch if applicable.

Label what is what, no overall pitch "rating", it is what it is.

If the climbing is all the same in both technical and etc... then it just gets a rating by the hardest move/crux/trick part.



Bottom line, after a FA, if you did anything all clean or big sections, you need to spell that out very clearly in the topo.

Keep it from getting beat out after the masses converge.


8
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet replacement ins and outs?
« on: September 29, 2015, 09:15:31 pm »
One rivet I placed stands out.

Cratered the placement,  but i knew it was "good enuff"... Heh.

hook, and a couple shitty beaks to the belay.

I go to replace the rivet, and I mean TOUCHED it from below with the hammer, and it fell into my hand.  2 threads deep.

New 1.25" split shaft bolt with washers goes in.

Plaid man tried the 3rd ascent of the route.  Took a big whinger onto that bolt. He is like me, no spring chicken.



Gotta leave it in good shape, a duty of the FA.  Especially nowadays.










9
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet replacement ins and outs?
« on: September 28, 2015, 06:21:05 pm »
I have used all types and sizes of "rivets"

The shortest are always where there is good gear below.

Ladders are interspersed with 1/4" button heads and carriage bolts in between.
We moved to a SS carriage bolt for the head size and poundability.  Regular machine heads get deerformed sometimes.


I have been caught by both 1.25" x 1/4" button heads and rivets.

If a FA'st weighs out the placement, the appropriate bolt, rivet etc will get placed.

Metal In rock as we say.   Bomber.

10
Big Wall Forum / Re: Totem Cams
« on: September 13, 2015, 10:04:32 am »
What happened on NNL Prod?

Pretty hot and smokey huh?

11
Big Wall Forum / Re: Totem Cams
« on: September 10, 2015, 12:25:40 pm »
Here are the weights of like kind.

Camming Device    Weight (g)

Totem Cam 1.25   109g

DMM Dragon 2           106g

BD Camalot .75   116g

Wild Country Helium 1.5   106g



Looks like they are not in fact that heavy.  Most every body uses doubles of BD Camelots, which are in fact heavier than totems.

The only reason that outdoor douche lab makes so many negative claims is that they are on the TEET of BD and Metolious.



 

12
Big Wall Forum / Re: Totem Cams
« on: August 23, 2015, 06:59:34 pm »
Double up on blue and yellow for starters.

Say it with me:

I will never leave a totem behind!!

Nevvvahhhh!!!

13
Big Wall Forum / Re: Capsule style
« on: August 04, 2015, 01:53:50 pm »
Ok, Ok.

Just bring duct tape and leave the lockers at home.

14
Big Wall Forum / Re: Capsule style
« on: August 04, 2015, 08:10:07 am »
I think it is applicable to a moderate/hard route that will take 5-7 days.

Think about what EE and Kate do, sometimes capsule, other times they move it up each day.

Bring 240 carabiners, 6 lockers.

15
Big Wall Forum / Capsule style
« on: August 03, 2015, 10:16:38 pm »
I like to fix em high and bivy in the same spot, if it's good.

Sometimes, it's easier than rigging up the triple stack at the end of each day.

Bring many ropes, like 4 or 5.  I feel weird without at least 4.

Rapping in each night, after the hard days work is MO bettah.  No "set up time", just straight to the safety convention.

Don't forget the rope protectors.




16
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet replacement ins and outs?
« on: July 21, 2015, 01:22:14 pm »
Metal in rock dude!  (that's what we say when asked how good the rivet is....Hehe)

Sound like munge and Lambone got ya covered.

I would deal with the rivet before you move past it on lead.  At least you will feel better about the lead if it is a crucial point of fixed protection.




17
Big Wall Forum / Re: Gri Gri to clean/ jug
« on: July 08, 2015, 12:19:52 pm »
Yeah, I would teach the classic method of 2 jugs, and a backup first.

Introducing the grigi as the go to method is gonna kill the speed, and efficiency.

It is a good tool to have and use in some circumstances.

I have used it maybe 2 times in my career, and only because my shoulder blew out on me and I was using one arm for everything.

Keep it simple, and have him/her use a minitrax, grigri, or knots to back up the rope work.


What are you planning on doing PROD?


18
Big Wall Forum / Re: Overheard
« on: July 06, 2015, 07:47:46 pm »
Heh HEh...


19
Big Wall Forum / Re: Overheard
« on: July 06, 2015, 08:42:35 am »
I was thinking of established routes, but yes, we have fulfilled our aid only certifications on those 2!

20
Big Wall Forum / Re: Overheard
« on: July 03, 2015, 01:46:21 pm »
I always dug Lockers "Positive resoles" logo...

"Spread yer legs and trust the rubber"



I have searched far and wide for a "aid only" route.  No mandatory free climbing, just gotta be handy with the steel if you know what I mean.

Bet Pete has a few under his belt.

21
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: First bigwall success WFLT
« on: June 29, 2015, 09:24:46 pm »
Quote
Do  you carry a rope bag for the lead and haul line or just one?

For most walls, one bag for the cleaner, but having another one to stash the haul line in after everything is up keeps a tidy belay.

I stack my haul line by starting with one really long loop, tie a bight, clip it off and repeat with shorter loops till the bag is up.  At most 6-8 loops.  Maintaining the loops in order so the top of the haul line (the end the leader is going to carry) is on the top.

Now as the leader climbs you untie a knot and have another 20-30 feet before you untie the next.

Great for when the trudlefest starts and you *might* want to clip your dynamic haul line in to double up on luck.

Yet another reason to use a dynamic cord to haul with.

The medium is good for a 70M fattie

http://yatesgear.com/cl/standard-bucket-style-rope-bags




22
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: First bigwall success WFLT
« on: June 29, 2015, 09:38:52 am »
Great job!  that is a nice steep entry into the big walls.

I agree with the rope bag method, get a yates model.

Having a tidy belay is paramount.  I always work at the belay, ensuring there will be no issues with ropes or any other fuss.

Managing 2 ropes is easy.  As you move up the adventure ladder, you may have to deal with lots of ropes, and all the practice will make it much easier.


One question:  Is there still a #7 hex with green cord right at the lip where your partner is on P10?



23
Big Wall Forum / Re: south seas beta
« on: June 22, 2015, 03:42:59 pm »
I climbed a A1 pitch that minerals put up.

Giant death block (gone now), tons of peckers, finishes with a string of #2 heads to the belay.

I logged some air time too.

A1+ is now the consensus  :-D



Turner is a granite craftsman, not giving up his secrets.



If I had time for EC, a 2nd ascent of a gerby route would be my first pick.  At least you know it will be real climbing, real heading, real stretcher, and real scary.

24
Big Wall Forum / Re: Best weather forecast for the Valley?
« on: June 17, 2015, 10:09:50 pm »
NOAA with pinpoint on the actual formation.

Climbing in valley heat waves is part of the fun!

Bring an umbrella, and salty foods with lots of liquids.

It will be over before it really gets desperate!  LOL


25
Big Wall Forum / Re: Moro Rock Grade V
« on: May 23, 2015, 01:24:07 pm »
Bet that is heavy with Grant at the healm....


26
No way jose.  Anything really hard is hard because of the surrounding features that might mess you up.  That and tons of iron.

9.5 would be my cutoff, and that would have to be a pitch with no iron or other metal camshackles in the mix that might slice my shizzle on the way down

I bet on something like the nose, a 10mm is on the big side for most of the fast teams.

27
I like a 11MM Blue Water for any foray into dangerous territory be it A1 or whatever.  Whatever you choose make sure it is the right amount of girth to keep you in the show if it all went fubar.

Heh


Having said that, a 10.2-10.5 is standard me thinks.

I have lead on a 9.5 without much worry.  Depends on the pitch.


28
Big Wall Forum / Re: Bug-Powered Ascent of Mescalito
« on: May 22, 2015, 04:09:49 pm »
She wants bugs?   

Forget that clean hammered Burton line and she should go do a First ascent.

Now that would be proud, leave the deck with NO food and only eat what is found in the dirty cracks encountered.

I swear she would have been able to survive on a few of my routes.....Maybe even put on a few LB's with the abundance of grubs, silverfish, frogs and such on a few choice pitches.

LOL


29
Big Wall Forum / Re: ClimbingYosemite.com site
« on: May 19, 2015, 08:30:47 pm »
odd that they dont have anything on Potter as an update.


They are going to give waiting times on EC routes, possibly join up with Tom via the bridge.



30
Big Wall Forum / Re: Excalibur
« on: May 08, 2015, 09:57:47 pm »
Big cams OR a Allfrey OR a Honnold. :-D

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