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Topics - mungeclimber

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1
Big Wall Forum / Valley Season over?
« on: November 02, 2015, 09:21:18 am »
Ready for walls elsewhere?

Ready for cragging at Jailhouse?


3
Big Wall Forum / Schedule of Offenses?
« on: October 21, 2015, 02:10:16 pm »
an interesting list of ethical offenses with increasing order of impact (or 'offense' importance) was proposed on supertopo recently. Without dipping into the morass on that thread, does the ordering seem right as a general principle?  What mitigating factors are there?

For example, is an enhanced hook placement to replace a trenched head placement more sustainable and thus less blameworthy?


 Upgrading 1/4" bolts in an anchor to 3/8" or 1/2"
 Adding a 2nd, 3rd, 4th belay bolt
 Changing rivets to bolts on an A1 climb
 Adding bolts to an anchor that was previously gear only
 Changing rivets to bolts on an A2 or higher climb
 Changing trenched heads to bolts
 Adding bolts to a bolt ladder to make it less reachy
 Enhancing aid placements
 Adding bolts to a bolt ladder to remove challenges at the start/end of the ladder
 Adding bolts to bypass a free or aid crux
 Chipping free holds

everyone is okay with upgrading most existing anchor bolts with beefier bolts.

everyone is NOT okay with chipping free holds to make the climb go at an easier grade.



Some additional 'offenses' proposed...

 Adding bolts to replace hook moves [as a full retrobolt]

 Adding bolts to bypass entire piton pitches, so they go "clean" [as a variant pitch]

 Adding bolts to bypass wide cracks [as a short section of bolts to bypass a short section of wide]

 Adding bolts to bypass thin cracks, pin scars, or other difficult clean placements [as a short section of bolts to bypass a short section of thin]

 Adding bolts on a free climb to reduce the runouts [full retrobolt without express FA author 'ok']


4
Big Wall Forum / Z pins
« on: September 18, 2015, 01:11:27 pm »
I know I know, nobody by the crusty still use these artful tricks of the trade, but just in case...

http://www.sierratradingpost.com/edelrid-z-peg-piton~p~8247u/?filterString=climbing~d~9%2F&colorFamily=01
 

5
Big Wall Forum / Wheeler Peak?
« on: September 14, 2015, 06:35:43 pm »
Wheeler Peak in Nevada.

Anyone been out there?

7
Big Wall Forum / New Wall hauling Pulley - Rock Exotica Omni
« on: July 29, 2015, 11:56:03 am »
http://www.rockexotica.com/new-products/omni-2-6

•Increased MBS of 80kN with 20kN WLL.

•Install and remove rope while still
connected to the anchor.

•Sideplate locks with two-stage,
double-catch safety mechanism.

•Integrated swivel allows pulley
to orient while reducing gain.

•Connect, install and remove
rope with one hand.

•CNC machined for optimal
weight & strength.


Mike. posted it up on ST, but I suspect the crowd over there won't appreciate the nuance of this device.

Pros and cons?

integrated swivel combined with a side plate approach similar to the Protrax looks promising.

What's the combined weight of the carabiners and slings needed for a protrax comparatively? 

Size relative to protrax set up?

Total break strengths compared?

I'll look more at this later, but worthy discussion for this crowd.

8
Big Wall Forum / Overheard
« on: July 02, 2015, 10:47:50 am »
Quote
Stirrups before sticky rubber!

 8-) :evil:

9
Big Wall Forum / Thoughts on Big Walls and the Unknown
« on: June 22, 2015, 09:29:11 am »
How can just over a 100 ft be so soul searching? Why does a hollow sounding flake make you think the whole sheet of granite might slide down and neatly snip the cord and your belayer in half?

It's been there for 100 years, why would it cut loose today?

Can the unknow-able, be knowable? Is there enough experience to make that overcoming a simple calculation? 1+1=2

Or does it simply not compute. It is full acceptance of the risk of bodily injury and possible death?

I'm not even talking A4 or 5, just that level at which you find yourself terrifically exposed. Like when you were 14, and wanted to ask the prettiest girl in the school out. You'd never talked to her before. Who knows if she will think you are an idiot, giggle, or reply in kind.

Perhaps that analogy isn't really apt. Maybe it's more like that first ski run, the pure lack of control. I think that's why free climbers like free over aid. They can rely on themselves. There is no external factor in most cases. Your skill will get you through. But in aid, what appears to be a thick enough piece of granite, might expand, might disintegrate or might sheer the whole thing.

It rewards with self overcoming. The mental battle. The dialogue. The move from dichotomy of thinking, to a creative new solution and new words to reflect the scenario. Eventually ending in anchors.


10
Big Wall Forum / Larry has a Forrest Hammock for sale on ST...
« on: June 19, 2015, 01:51:59 pm »
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2643601/FS-Forrest-single-point-hammock

I can't sleep in one, but seems pretty plush for a light weight option.

11
Big Wall Forum / Raining today
« on: June 10, 2015, 01:57:07 pm »
feels odd in June to have it rain in the morning down here in the flats.

Yosemite has to be getting some of this.

looked dry this weekend when I checked yesterday. Going in either way.

12
Big Wall Forum / "Prep" of the wall for big wall speed ascents?
« on: June 02, 2015, 03:03:18 pm »
I used to think that speed ascents always were done in the late season in the hopes that the wall is 'more fixed' to go fast through it.

But perhaps a buddy's ascent before hand gives dialed in beta of the conditions of fixed gear so you only have to take the bare necessities?


13
Big Wall Forum / Moro Rock Grade V
« on: May 23, 2015, 12:51:24 am »

14
Just bought a new cord on a deal. 70m so I can fit in with my friends. But she's a spritely 9.7.

Now I'd seen some 10mm back in the 90s that looked about as a small a diameter as this.

What's the smallest diameter you'd bust a A3 on?

I still got my 10.2 supersafe, but let's face it, it won't last forever, and Bosque, Cobble and Mucci keep eye'ing it for fixing projects.

15
Big Wall Forum / REI anny sale = 25% off all BD
« on: May 20, 2015, 07:14:13 pm »
C3!!!

C4!!!

X4!!!

X4Offsets!!!

and the usual nuts, lockers, harnesses and helmets.

Just saying, 25% is better than no percent.


16
Big Wall Forum / ClimbingYosemite.com site
« on: May 19, 2015, 06:39:21 pm »
Took another look at the site, and content like this post about conditions could really be useful over time...

http://www.climbingyosemite.com/portfolio/half-dome-conditions-update-51315/

Given the tentative tolerance for fixed lines on established descents/ascents, I can't help but wonder whether updates will include updates about fixed line conditions.

17
Big Wall Forum / Zodiac - flakes off right on the wide pitch
« on: May 18, 2015, 03:55:00 pm »
Is this flake really attached where the cam is behind it?

https://camsandjams.files.wordpress.com/2015/05/img_3399.jpg

Some of those little flakes in that area are barely there. Just can't recall if it's that one.




18
Big Wall Forum / The Sea of Dreams
« on: May 11, 2015, 04:31:37 pm »
New Rock and Ice Ascent has a nice piece by Bridwell about the Sea of Dreams. Confirms additional bolts by subsequent ascents. Tells the tale of who had envisioned the line first. 

Almost enough to get a guy on the Wall.

Levy's beta from 2006 is telling...

http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/route_beta.php?r=ybelseao

any newer reports?

20
Big Wall Forum / Big Wall Stallin - how do you make amends?
« on: May 06, 2015, 12:33:26 am »
Forgive me father, for I have sinned. I have not exceeded 16 pitches in several weeks.

I have climbed in an impure manner. Touch, rub, covet, heavy on the covet father! <--George Carlin fans will get that one.


That's ok man! Tres a Marias!



I will climb several pitches this weekend if at all possible, and start up on big stone there after.


Hail Deuce, Full of Grace.

Sincerely
-MungeRatSlabDouche

21
Big Wall Forum / 200' of static line for 108$
« on: April 15, 2015, 05:14:40 pm »
http://www.mtntools.com/savebig/index.html

Figure ya'll would be the crowd for static line deals. Call them up first to make sure it's what you need.

22
Big Wall Forum / Royal Arches and other Big Walls
« on: March 30, 2015, 08:04:10 am »
At 16 pitches, this is longer than some Grade VIs.

You can descend NDG.


It IS a big wall.


What other lines are like this?

Btw, Royal Arches was bone dry yesterday.

25
Big Wall Forum / Why are we not in Yosemite?
« on: January 20, 2015, 01:36:41 pm »


Sling some mud this weekend, wrap another route, then it's Sierra after that.

I mean, gas is cheap, right?

26
Big Wall Forum / No pressure guys!
« on: December 29, 2014, 01:27:12 pm »
We still love ya even if we have to continue to aid climb the Dawn Wall.

-The Big Wall forum

ps- if you send, that's cool too. ;)   :mrgreen:

28
I'll go first, since I haven't done any other pitch of it yet...

Best: For the approach pitch, you can do Pine Line instead.
Worst: The crowds at the base.

Okay, now you go...

29
Case in point...

http://youtu.be/4GZnsCJMP6w

Couldn't the hook moves here be done from stirrups without weighting the protection bolts?

btw, strong pulls by this guy! I definitely don't get why, unless this is training for drytooling big routes fast?

Speed drytooling?


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