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Topics - *Mucci*

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Big Wall Forum / Capsule style
« on: August 03, 2015, 10:16:38 pm »
I like to fix em high and bivy in the same spot, if it's good.

Sometimes, it's easier than rigging up the triple stack at the end of each day.

Bring many ropes, like 4 or 5.  I feel weird without at least 4.

Rapping in each night, after the hard days work is MO bettah.  No "set up time", just straight to the safety convention.

Don't forget the rope protectors.




2
Big Wall Forum / Awesome
« on: February 24, 2015, 10:53:47 am »

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Big Wall Forum / End of the season!! Trip reports?
« on: October 30, 2014, 07:00:49 pm »
This is the time when this board should be sounding off.

Did a trundlefest variation to Jericho this fall with Kev and Steve.  Big fun in the dirt and looseness.

Memorable times included:

2 big storms coming in during fixing.
1 Big ass fire that prompted retreat.
Placing a hanger that was stamped "pussy".  It's always a surprise, always demeaning.
1 full on mungefest pitch (worst pitch I have ever been apart of, every body got a turn leading it) With 15 feet of stacked jenga blocks to navigate
1 pitch that took 30 beaks.
Lowering a death block to the belay so we didn't kill Plaidman.
People on the Grack screaming at us to "stop throwing rocks!" After our response, the harassment from the gracksters stopped for the day.
Booty cam was found, except we were the only ones who have climbed there....it was a totem.


So What the hell has been going on?

HeyHep!


4
Big Wall Forum / What's Happening?
« on: September 16, 2014, 04:43:18 pm »
Tissack got new hardware.
New route on HCR with one bolt.
Ashes to ashes and tsunami were repeated this spring, wonder if that soloist took down anymore obscurites?
Grape race speed record..

Any other notable ascents?

Got to be some action going on, I need a fix..

5
Big Wall Forum / Rivet Hangers breaking?
« on: June 23, 2014, 11:58:27 am »
In the new Yo Big walls book, under the gear pages in the beginning, it states that "cinch" style rivet hangers "do not hold falls".

Has this been the case in the past?  Any stories that would back up this statement?

Personally, I only use butterfly, or commonly called "cinch" hangers, and occasionally use keyhole and or regular wired hangers.

I make my own hardware with a nicopress tool, nicopress material, and the 7x19 wire.

More than a few falls on my cinch hangers, never a cause for concern, of course they do not last forever, and repetitive use wears down the slide oval eventually.


What was the reasoning behind this statement in the book?  In many cases, a cinch is the only thing that will stay on a dowel, button head, broken rivet etc...

The Cinch has been a long deployed tool of the rivet ladder, just wondering why they were painted in a bad light?

Cheers!

6
I don't know,  Jim Reynolds is sending the rarely done "Cosmos" Solo right now.  That is a big bastard.

Pretty sure that could be considered "Hard Aid", as it almost never gets done.

Do you El cap climbers see a pattern with the supposed A3/A4 routes you have done?

Everything fixed, multiple placement options, cruxes that seem easy while the sneaky A2 pitch turns out to be the crux of the route? 

Are there any pitches that make you REALLY work?









7
Big Wall Forum / Old Guides route on EC?
« on: February 28, 2014, 11:22:38 am »
2004 Old Guides Variation (VI 5.8 A3), El Capitan, Yosemite, CA, USA with Jackson Marsten and Giovanni Groaz

Courtesy of the AAJ

Anybody know where this is located?

8
Big Wall Forum / Crazy Pitches, weird antics?
« on: February 07, 2014, 04:21:43 pm »
Let's hear it.

Queen of spades has the rabbit hole on P1. Very Clever.

Any other weird stuff on first pitches, you know where the FA team was boozin and fixing and will have you do all sorts of fucked up shenanigans to get up the pitch in one rope?

Another good one, more recent even:

Climb half of the 200ft pitch, fix off of rivets, lower down and back clean everything, then continue on up to the belay with the rope running straight.

Gotta be some cool/ weird rope tricks out there...


10
Big Wall Forum / EDGE PROTECTORS, Core Shots, and Rope Wrangling.
« on: April 11, 2013, 03:28:57 pm »
Man, over the years, I have come across some very bad edges while fixing ropes, finishing leads etc...

I have done everything under the sun from duct tape to knee pads.

Recently Started using the Yates canvas/ballistic velcro protectors.  What a difference having a couple of those around makes.

I bring them anytime we go on something new, or off the beaten path.  Definately not the same card game as a trade route, dealing with the jingus edges and looseness.

We had to use the protector while rappelling as well, with double ropes.  You can hook the protector up with a prussic on the "Pull rope" , put both strands of the ropes through it, then when you pull the ropes, the knott brings the edge protector down to you.

Repeat.

Core shots are the one thing that has plauged me, and I am alway keen on hearing ideas to minimize them. 

Or better yet is those times where the core is just starting, and if you whip its gonna blow for sure.  Taping jobs?

Any good stories?




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Big Wall Forum / What stopped you?
« on: October 29, 2012, 09:05:05 pm »
#3 head I placed myself, with a shorty yates screamer.

Pretty short/hard fall, all air.

Screamer didn't scream, go figure.....

What about you?

13
Big Wall Forum / Early ascents/repeats
« on: March 19, 2012, 05:45:11 pm »
I got to thinking, I really don't get fired up for routes that have had hundreds of ascents.


Now, on early ascents, you get the whole package.  Full nailing pitches, not more than a head or two fixed here or there...

Anchors that are not sponsored by Hilton. 

Above all else, you have the opportunity to climb the route exactly as the team before you envisioned.  There is not a long period when this is possible.  Fixed gear, features fall off, rivets get added, belays get more comfy..  Pretty soon it gets a grade change, Cwhatever gets listed instead of iron, etc.. 

2nd ascents always seem to stand alone in the proud department.

Problem most of the time of course is finding a partner that's into labor, cuz this ain't no weenie roast!

I have never done a 2nd ascent, or an early ascent :)

Have you?





14
Big Wall Forum / Smokin deal on a Met EC Haul bag!
« on: February 27, 2012, 11:40:43 pm »
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Haul-Bag-Metolius-El-Cap-New-w-tags-/270922108685?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=

Dig the color, but am maxed out on bags at the moment.

Perfect for those alpine walls, dark blue to absorb the sun's heat :o

15
Big Wall Forum / Rigging Plates
« on: November 05, 2011, 05:57:05 pm »
Last few walls, I have incorporated them into my hauling rig.  We always bring 2 or 3 bags, 2 double ledges etc..
Man, what a difference they make.  The 3 hole plates are great for 2 bags side by side.

What about at the belays?  I could see using them on main anchor points and such.  However, I have never seen a team do this.

Anybody use them on the front line?

Prefer a certain size, type?




16
Big Wall Forum / Pictures on the main forum page?
« on: June 02, 2011, 05:41:08 pm »
The three pictures listed on the "Forums" page here at bigwalls has alway intrigued me.

The first, and This is just a guess, is the Diamond?

The second Pic of the dude Hooking is Southern man?

And the third pic of the bivy is who......? Deucey?

17
Big Wall Trip Reports / PREMEDITATED part 2 TR
« on: January 07, 2010, 11:07:37 am »
Well, turns out the crux of this route for me was waiting 2+ weeks to get back to the second pitch.  I had way too much time to think.  I was in the "Mode" when myself and Tyler met up with Munge at the parking lot, a few laughs and we were off to finish this beast!

A helping hand and a med beak eliminated the need to climb the A3 off the belay to set up the tension traverse.  The section we avoided was by far the worst looking rock on the entire route.
A few semi free moves yield a ok red alien placement, followed by a blue alien to get established in the corner proper.



Finally in the corner which was thin, mostly arrows and small cams.

The corner went by smoothly, then I hit the tenuous section. The seam vanished and I began the searching for a good way to get up to the roof.  This required some rubble removal and a hook followed by a expanding placement that kept spitting out gravel and dust.  Whew!

Setting a crumbly hook.


This section up to the roof was very marginal.  Blow it toward the top and your looking at a huge fall potential, with a ledge and corner to navigate around on the way down, PDH mentally.
The roof crack was all arrows driven straight up. 



About the time I was in the middle of the roof, a teenager made his way up to the base.  After Tyler warned him of falling rock he decided to climb up the small buttress to the left of where we were.  Toiling around he found himself contemplating a 20 foot jump down to a grassy terrace which was another 40 feet to the ground!  I warned him, as did Tyler that doing so would be a death wish.  He was having none of it!  I watched him attempt to get in position when I hear from the belay "Hey man, I really don't want to come off this thing to initiate a body recovery, find another way off!"  Or something like that.  I was laughing so hard hanging there under the roof!  Munge was stern and it worked, he found another way off.  All three of us thought this kid was dead, and all due to an effort to impress his hiking buddies.

Now I've got this thing by the throat!  I nail left and can see the belay!  WHOOP!  As I place a very bad small arrow in an expanding flake I know it has a time limit.  I get the daisy ready to clip the bolt, highstep and make the move.  SLACK!!! OH GOD!!!  I watched the arrow explode the rock and shift down a half inch!  "No way Mucci! not on the last placement! One move and you got it in the bag"  I say to myself as I make a half dyno for the bolt hanger.  Clipped in and now this mother is finished!

Munge then set out to clean the pitch, very efficient and yielding Bridwell's hammer for cleaning, he funked out all the pins with ease.  He had a few laughs at the gear, and followed the traverse by clip cleaning and using his grigri.  Very smooth indeed!
Leaving the belay

A Mudbeak Placement

Hitting the traverse

At the belay, very happy to be done with the adventure


So, we had a plan, good beta, and that highly sought after Pinnacles Passion for early repeats.  I would like to thank Brad and DES for the great info and the new bolts at the belay's, those guys had nothing to go on when they did it, which surely made the ascent more spicy. 

Throughout the two trip it took to finish this route, we had birds following us.  First it was the sparrow, when we were racking up, then the swallow by the truck and finally the Condor that wanted a look at me while at the belay.  This huge beast was literally 30 feet away from me.  Floating around he took a b-line for me and I thought he was going to attack me!  Munge saw me scream and curl up at the belay, He got so close I could see his eyes!  Absolutely Beautiful!

Having Jim's hammer with us gave us the psych.  To do this route is one thing, but having the tool of my hero alongside made this ascent go from a dream to a reality.  The Bird was definately with us!

I hope we set the bar high for future recipients of JB's hammer, it's the only way he would want it.

Cheers,

Mucci

A special thanks to Tyler Martin for ground support, suicide watch, and photography.  It's nice to have a 3rd for the pictures.  Not to mention he and munge figured out at the end of the day they had climbed together years ago!  HAHa!

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Big Wall Forum / Broken Back/ tips to ease the Pain?
« on: May 23, 2009, 10:10:28 pm »
I have read that a few on this forum have messed up backs.  I have a completely smashed bulging L5, cracked Sacrum S1, and tons of nerve damage.  I have noticed that the only time the old back gives me trouble is body hauling (obviously) and top-steppin when tensioned to the piece.  I just want to know if anyone has anything to offer in the back department.  Harness mods, certain equipment that helps out etc.  Anything will help, so how do you make it happen with back ailments?

- Safety meetings at belays have always been a front runner in pain management, depending on the quality of the Safety Equipment.

19
Big Wall Forum / Modified Beaks
« on: May 02, 2009, 02:55:08 pm »
Hey guys, Just wanted to dip into the wealth of knowledge here about modifying our tools of trade.  I have noticed that the A5 beaks and BD differ both in size and shape.  I was wondering what mods/grinding can be done to improve "Hand Placements".  So far I have only hand placed em, but have noticed places where A5 beaks are preferred over the longer BD's.  Particularly in thin shallow seams, it seems there may be a place for a ground down medium BD beak over a small A5.  Pictures would be great.

Thanks boys



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