Author Topic: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!  (Read 11786 times)

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Offline hoots

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2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« on: March 13, 2011, 01:10:12 pm »
It's just around the corner!  Rust is being beaten off pins, new hero loops are being tied, and the wall shoes are getting a fresh coating in Plasti-Dip! 

What are folks plans?  Anybody stoked on mid week walls mid April?
 

Git some!

Offline mhudon

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #1 on: March 13, 2011, 03:09:40 pm »
Yeah, with any luck I'll do three El Cap routes this year!

Don't tell anyone (yeah, right) but I have plans for the South Seas with Max this fall. He hasn't been up El Cap since we did the Nose in 1979! Of course, him being Max Jones, he's is great shape. He sport climbed a bit in the '90s but hasn't done any real climbing in the last fiver or six years. I've been telling him about my recent El Cap routes, trying to draw him in, and it seems like I've succeeded.

I'm making it real easy for him, all he needs are his clothes, food and personal gear, I'm suppling everything else. This is going to be great!

Me (left) and Max on top of the Mescalito in October of 1977




Offline waulrat

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #2 on: March 14, 2011, 11:47:31 pm »
I am getting (have been) stoked! Hopefully I can conjure up some time off soon. Caz, Skully, what say you?
It's a tribal thing

Offline lambone

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #3 on: March 15, 2011, 12:15:40 am »
June 15th!!!

skully

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #4 on: March 15, 2011, 05:57:52 am »
Dunno what's coming around the next bend, but I'll try on some stoke.
We'll see. Weird times.

Offline smack

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #5 on: March 15, 2011, 08:15:21 am »
May 16th. Chamonix. No objectives set but I hear there are some big alpine "walls" over there :)

Offline hoots

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #6 on: March 15, 2011, 10:35:27 am »
Anybody know if the seasonal raptor closure is back in effect this year?  That includes SS-PO right? 

Offline lambone

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #7 on: March 15, 2011, 02:09:19 pm »
I think the closure started at the PO. The nest is up in the Black Dihedral, the PO climbs up pretty close, but not into it. Great route.

Offline mhudon

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #8 on: March 15, 2011, 07:23:05 pm »
I thought Mescalito was the line the closure started at and went all the way over to Aurora.

Offline lambone

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #9 on: March 15, 2011, 08:25:08 pm »
Yeah that might be right.

I'm planning on getting on the Nose with a free climber friend. He's a 5.12 sporto but hasn't been on a wall since doing the RNWF way back in the day. So it'll be gimpy and the sporto, look out!

Offline mhudon

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #10 on: March 15, 2011, 09:24:44 pm »
Lambone are you still gimped up from your accident last year? It's been quite a while, hasn't it?

Offline lambone

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #11 on: March 15, 2011, 11:02:48 pm »
Yeah Mark, thanks for asking.

I'm actually doing pretty good all things considered. But my leg is still at about %75 and I've got chronic pain in the knee. I should be stronger at this point but with a 4 month old baby, a 2 year old, buisness, and new found love of music I have been slacking on the training. A plan was hatched this week and I figure Ive got 3 good months to get serious about hitting the gym.

It's weird ya know, I can ski and climb in the gym and get up stairs fine (down is still tentative)....but I'll be walkin the dog in the dark and stumble on a slightly raised sidewalk and have wicked shooting pain through all the muscles in my leg. So I'm a little worried about the talus and hiking up in aiders all day...but my biggest fear is the East Ledges.

Gunna giver a try though. I gotta for my soul. Wife is on board for 1 week. Being away from the girls that long is gunna be cruxy.   ;)
« Last Edit: March 15, 2011, 11:04:34 pm by lambone »

Offline lambone

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #12 on: March 16, 2011, 12:36:16 am »
You know...I'll add. After hanging with Sean and Timmy, Evo and Ammon the night be for the first 1day prapalegic attempt, and then Steve  send Zod as G-Man and I were scraping up Mescalito.........

I have to say my that little bum leg is nothing but a mere(as my daughter would say) "boo boo on the knee..."




(must also add, watch out for the trees.)

Offline mhudon

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #13 on: March 16, 2011, 09:37:28 am »
Good luck, I have no experience with knees, all my pain has been elbows and shoulders, so I can't help much.

Right now I'm soaking my arms and elbows in ice cold water for 10 minutes every day. It seems to be helping.

Take it slow, again, Good Luck.

Offline lambone

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #14 on: March 16, 2011, 09:53:42 am »
Thanks bud, stoked for sure!

I'm contemplating whether we can pull off the Nose in two bivis....would much rather sleep on EC Tower and Camp 5.

South Seas is a great route Mark, good choice. Not many easy pitches for your buddy to lead though....if that matters.

Also, not that you need my advice, but I found the expando traversing A4 pitch to be very difficult to clean, I basically had to re-aid alot of it. It would almost be easier to cam hook it belaying with a grigri and no jugs. I remember blowing a tiny cam and taking a pendulum cleaning-whipper on my jugs that scared the crap out of me. There are quite a few expando sections on the route, so make sure your bro is trained in the art of cleaning that stuff....can be pretty tricky at times.
« Last Edit: March 16, 2011, 10:44:59 am by lambone »

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #15 on: March 16, 2011, 11:10:56 am »
cleaning expando is a good topic for this site, I'll post up a thread.


Offline mhudon

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #16 on: March 16, 2011, 11:50:13 am »
It'll actually be a bit funny to see Max aid climbing after all these years. The last time he was in aiders was in 79 when we went up on the PO for the 4th ascent. We bailed when I dropped a rock on my finger and ripped off the fingernail.

He's pretty heads up as far as climbing goes. He'll figure it out. Once I get my spring route done I'll start emailing him with tips and tricks.

Offline lambone

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #17 on: March 16, 2011, 12:21:11 pm »
Oh and bring a bolt kit. The PO has some of the worst lead bolts I've ever clipped.

Offline mhudon

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #18 on: March 16, 2011, 12:27:04 pm »
Will do, thanks.

I've been wanting to get on that route for a long time. It's my longest standing vendetta right now. I went up on the first pitch, Rainsford led part way up the second pitch but got off route and had to drill a bolt to get down and the next day, after humping everything to the base, I looked up and realized that I didn't have it in me anymore. It'll be a big deal for me to leave the ground on that route.

Offline lambone

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #19 on: March 16, 2011, 12:30:53 pm »
South Seas is so cool cause you feel committed after pitch 1!

Offline Durin

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #20 on: March 17, 2011, 01:42:15 am »
My buddies and I (all undergrads from Boulder) are going to rage in the valley this spring.

The mean age on El Cap is going to drop fast!

Does anyone have or know of beta for climbing the Nose fast, besides Hans Florine's stuff? i.e. doing it in 6-8 hours

Offline lambone

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #21 on: March 17, 2011, 12:58:52 pm »
Run it out with no belay.

Yer Gunna Die

Offline mhudon

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #22 on: March 17, 2011, 03:47:59 pm »
short fix every pitch, free climb as much as possible, simul-climb the bolts on the last pitch, watch that your ropes don't get stuck anywhere.

A more advance method might include to back clean the whole of the Great Roof so that the cleaning goes faster. Don't fall though, it would be ugly.

Offline lambone

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #23 on: March 17, 2011, 03:50:28 pm »
FYI
South Seas-PO through Native Son are closed March 1- August 1. including those routes.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #24 on: March 22, 2011, 11:12:04 am »
sunkist. and someone to take a picture on 14 like the cover of the reid big wall guide.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline BriGuy

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #25 on: March 22, 2011, 09:48:48 pm »
cobbeldik, this is a Tom Evans shot of that pitch 14 on Sunkist, unique angle, same position, different day



Hope to see some of you this spring in the ditch!

« Last Edit: May 26, 2011, 03:57:55 pm by BriGuy »

Offline cobbledik

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #26 on: March 23, 2011, 02:36:06 pm »
damn. that pitch looks worth quiting a job for.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Garbonzo

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #27 on: March 23, 2011, 04:54:06 pm »
Got my new portaledge floor all sewn up, black with bright orange trim.  Got the carbon fiber poles in hand.  Side joiners are all machined up.  Haul sack for it is all done with the bottom section being 40oz urthane, bomber.  Just waiting for the machined corners to come in so I can put the whole thing together.  Should come in at 4.8 lbs lighter than I one I built up for last year based on the weighed components (moslty 10 oz on the bed and 4 lbs on the poles).  12 lbs for a Cabana sized ledge is way cool.  Way stoked on how this project is wrapping up.

New Anker simple fly is all seam sealed.

Wall rope is all washed.

I finally cut off that stupid velcro thing on my BD wall harness (carefully used a seam ripper so you can't even tell it was ever there).

Got a fresh batch of MRE's in, tried a few of the new-to-me flavors.  Also got heaters this time, aiming to be Boyardee-free this year.

New headlamp is in, since my Petzl Myo XP decided to develop a short while being stored this winter.  Backup-backup Ion headlamp has a fresh battery since it got used up last year (partner's main lamp died, he forgot his spare, and he left my backup one down in the bags on day one, making me glad I had two on my person).

Looking forward to my first party of 3 wall with two of my favorite partners.

D5 hammer will hopefully stay pristine in the bottom of the bag while going up the Zodiac...
« Last Edit: March 23, 2011, 04:56:18 pm by Garbonzo »

Offline mhudon

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #28 on: March 23, 2011, 08:14:12 pm »
Oh I love fondling gear!

skully

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Re: 2011 Wall Season STOKE!
« Reply #29 on: March 23, 2011, 09:04:05 pm »
I don't think you'll need the hammer for anything other than pristine booty on the Zode, Garbonzo....Reap well, for booty may well abound.
I got 6 arrows from it. I placed none. I only placed 1 baby & a couple beaks on that one.Nipple!('94) Bring some Tomahawks...

Yeah, ok, I'm busted. I, too, am fondling my gear. You know the deal.
« Last Edit: March 23, 2011, 09:06:37 pm by skully »