Author Topic: Did some climbing at Riverside Quarry  (Read 3318 times)

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Offline cobbledik

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Did some climbing at Riverside Quarry
« on: December 27, 2011, 06:33:56 am »
Did some solo aid climbing at Riverside Quarry when it got too cold in the Valley for me. A3 nailing on the Slab City area.
Did Pucker Power which was fun because it didn't have the normal gridbolting around it to allow you to stick clip your way to top rope hardman status.
Made a video
Here it is

http://youtu.be/NWloEYsJCW8

(Free traverse, 1/4" button head, wire hanger on rivet, arrow, fixed RURP, Tomahawk, Hook, Hook, Free move, the monkeys are sending.)
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: Did some climbing at Riverside Quarry
« Reply #1 on: December 27, 2011, 12:21:08 pm »
that block you hooked on the arete looked ready for the dirt ride.




ah yes, the inevitable sound of motocross in the Inland Empire.

looks like you could park close to the cliff. Didn't it used to be the sportos had to park further out when they fenced part of it off or something?

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Did some climbing at Riverside Quarry
« Reply #2 on: December 30, 2011, 05:06:12 pm »
You're supposed to park out on the street but people still drive in and park at the base from time to time. Only thing worse than sport climbers is sport climbers from LA.

Every now and then they'll give you the stink eye for nailing right before they climb their superrad 5.13c crimpfest on drilled holds and epoxied flakes. The place is a travesty. Grid bolted like whoa. Obviously I'm a hypocrite for nailing and thinking that's cool while hating on them for destroying the rock similarly.

But there's no better place to practice thin/rotten nailing as well as clean techniques on the same thin/rotten features. bring a stick clip and everything goes from A4 to A1 reeeeal quick. Although the older aid routes in slab city are still devoid of bolts so you can get a nice fear on.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Did some climbing at Riverside Quarry
« Reply #3 on: January 02, 2012, 12:26:08 pm »
Made another video for Fetal Rearrangement to the left of Pucker Power.

Supposedly it's A2 but everything on the third pitch is decomposing worse than a 20-something year old blond actress on CSI. So yeah.

not meant to be a Video TR, more playing around with iMovie.

http://youtu.be/bjAZ36MDwyw

Oh yeah, I forgot to say, if nothing else, it has a cool daisyfall onto an inverted camhook.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

skully

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Re: Did some climbing at Riverside Quarry
« Reply #4 on: January 02, 2012, 01:04:37 pm »
Right on, though if you don't mind some criticism (constructive, of course), I'd try to get a bit higher on each piece of gear, to try & eliminate a few moves.  Immaterial on a traverse, though.  Cool little flicks. Thanks for throwin' them out there.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Did some climbing at Riverside Quarry
« Reply #5 on: January 02, 2012, 02:42:20 pm »
Definitely I go with the mindset of topstepping everything and so forth. In both of these cases fear gets the better of me, plus the little devil on my shoulder telling me, "no need to top step, you're at a sport climber's hell hole in LA, no need to get hurt here" his devilish voice is so smooth and silky that i can rationalize placing more gear between myself and the nearest ledge.

Both of these routes are an anomaly at Riverside because they don't have sport bolts littered everywhere so you're actually climbing with real fall potential.

I hate that part of climbing, you know, the climbing part.

When I'm comfortable with my previous piece, ooowee, you should see me go! The shivering, weeping climber I normally am can barely recognize myself. Every time I go out aid cragging I get a little teeny bit more of the comfortable guy and just as much of the normal weeping guy.

You'd think that the weeping whining guy would show up less as the comfortable climber comes out, but alas, that does not seem to be the case.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

skully

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Re: Did some climbing at Riverside Quarry
« Reply #6 on: January 02, 2012, 07:11:54 pm »
I hear ya, bro. I've been, and sometimes can still be, that guy.
Part of the lure is to put it out there. Part is to NOT put it out there, so much.
You work it out on the Lead. Or ya don't, right?
I'd stay on track. Yer track is just fine.
Looks better than my practicin' area. I'm aidin' 11minus sport routes. On Basalt.
Yeesh.

Offline beta

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Re: Did some climbing at Riverside Quarry
« Reply #7 on: March 03, 2012, 01:38:08 am »
Cobbledik,

digging the music you chose for this TR, who is it?

Thanks,

beta
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Offline cobbledik

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Re: Did some climbing at Riverside Quarry
« Reply #8 on: March 03, 2012, 08:08:23 am »
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

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Re: Did some climbing at Riverside Quarry
« Reply #9 on: March 03, 2012, 08:57:05 am »
Thanks bro.....
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Offline Beautiful_Corn

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Re: Did some climbing at Riverside Quarry
« Reply #10 on: March 03, 2012, 09:25:16 am »
Noobish question about that daisy fall:

It looks like you had your weight on the nut that popped and were working on placing a higher piece.  I would have thought that once you got the weight on the nut you would have removed the cam hook or unclipped it or whatever (never used cam hooks so I don't know if you leave them or pull them.)  Can you explain the sequence of how it all happened?  Never had a daisy fall yet so I'm a bit skittish about them happening to me and I want to know how best to avoid them.

Taylor

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Did some climbing at Riverside Quarry
« Reply #11 on: March 03, 2012, 11:39:16 am »
Not noobish at all.

short: I had a daisy fall because decided I'd rather risk the daisy fall than the longer roped fall.

long: As you can tell from how low I am in the ladders, I was unhappy with the micronut that I had placed. I was frightened that if I stepped higher in the ladders I'd have further to fall if it popped. Beneath that nut i'd placed an inverted camhook and stepped as high in that as I could to get around the small roof that was there. Beneath that was a nest of placements that probably were good but I was untrusting of them. ("probably" is a word that means "bomber" on the ground and "bullshit" on the wall.)

When I placed the nut off of the camhook, I looked down at what was below me and decided that if the nut didn't hold and I fell onto those pieces, the best case was a long 20' fall into space if they held and a longer fall onto the slab below if they didn't. So when I weighted the nut, I left the camhook in its place.

(Note: camhooks are like regular hooks in that you take them with you as you go, they stay in place via weight/pressure, so once you're off of them they could slip out and so are not appropriate as protection. - that being said - camhooks can get stuuuuuuck, soooo yeah.)

Obviously the desire is to avoid daisy falls but at the same time to treat every situation on its own merits. Because I was worried about the nest of protection below the camhook, I knew that leaving the camhook would yield 1 of 2 options. Hold and hurt or break and absorb. If the hook held and the webbing held and the daisy held then I'd be accepting the force onto myself and I was okay with that (as it went, the bar tacking around the clip in point of the ladders burst halfway which absorbed a lot of the force making it less painful for me - it still hurt though) If the hook or webbing or daisy broke then I knew that would absorb some of the force of the fall and increase the chances of my nest of gear below that holding.

So yeah. that's the long story.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mhudon

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Re: Did some climbing at Riverside Quarry
« Reply #12 on: March 03, 2012, 12:09:58 pm »
Never hit a piton or pecker more than three times. If you find the correct piece to begin with, it will fit the placement better and will hold with few hammer blows. Few hammer blows means it's easier to clean and does less damage to the rock.

Offline Beautiful_Corn

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Re: Did some climbing at Riverside Quarry
« Reply #13 on: March 03, 2012, 12:23:42 pm »
What, if anything, might be a better placement in that crack with the pecker?  A RURP?

Kevin, I love your groan of dismay when you drop the piton at the beginning of the video.  Ever find it?  It's hard to lose dropped gear around here when the local crags are glorified boulders.  Edit: I realized it's in the beginning of the second video.
« Last Edit: March 03, 2012, 12:33:02 pm by Beautiful_Corn »

Offline Beautiful_Corn

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Re: Did some climbing at Riverside Quarry
« Reply #14 on: March 03, 2012, 12:37:25 pm »
I watched the video again and answered my own question, I think.  It takes about 4-5 blows before that thing doesn't go in any further.  To tell the truth, I'd probably overdo it myself.  I'll remember Mark's tip for the future.

Offline mhudon

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Re: Did some climbing at Riverside Quarry
« Reply #15 on: March 03, 2012, 01:17:33 pm »
Sure, sometimes you just have to ((have to) hit something more, but generally, try to keep it to three. You'll be amazed at how often you can and it will also sharpen you pin/pecker placement skills.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: Did some climbing at Riverside Quarry
« Reply #16 on: March 03, 2012, 02:24:50 pm »
Mark is right. Peckers take almost no hits (the more you hand place them the more you see how they cam. That particular placement was a bit different though, the entire top portion of that part of the quarry is a deteriorating kitty litter box tipped on its end. Everything was coming apart in a frightening manner. (one placement not in the video started out as a blade, blew out to a arrow which then blew out to an angle pkacement; all in the space of 5 minutes)

It's harder to hear because of the music but the pecker went in with the most disheartening dull thud with every hit. In solid rock, 1-2 hits = hurray. In that decomposing granite, who knows? I was able to remove it with only a few taps.

(and I found the dropped arrow at the end of the day)
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.