Author Topic: Freak Show 2012  (Read 6401 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline mungeclimber

  • Administrator
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 2257
    • View Profile
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Freak Show 2012
« on: June 02, 2012, 11:50:18 pm »
Monday May 21st an email with the words "fri slight chance of tstorms, evening same. 50high avg

32 low avg." goes out.


No big.


We're bringing a sh1t show. We can weather anything. Slight chance is no big deal, right?

Thursday night, forecast has changed. Now both Friday and Saturday percent chance of rain has

increased with snow above 5k.

No matter. We're getting this thing done.



Scroll back to 2006

http://www.bigwalls.com/forum2/index.php?

topic=154.0


I really didn't want to be rushed on a Big Wall. I wanted to go at my pace. So I went to Kings

Canyon to do a Grade V with my good friend Chriz.

http://www.bigwalls.com/forum2/index.php?

topic=154.0



In 2009 I scratched my way up Lurking Fear with Gomz bro.


Later I finally got back to the Freak Show with Team 3M (Mucci, Mooch and Munge). Unfortunately we got

completely

stormed, so we made the call to come back the next weekend or so and blast from our high point

at the top of pitch 4.




More weather, schedules conspiring against us, and a closure of the park meant we would have to

wait.


Memorial Weekend, we decide is the best time to get a ton of time, with optimal weather

*cough!* possibilities and also not too hot.


Scroll forward to last weekend again. Thursday night rolls us in late, but not unreasonable. We

 set about looking for Mooch, but no luck. He's MIA. Terrible thoughts run thru my head. Just a

few weeks before the anniversary of my friend Brutus' death, this area's roads are not kind.

Fortunately, it's all for naught. Dave is just in a different campground. He finds us in the

morning.



Our plan... fix some good lines and get us ready for whatever is happening Saturday. Perhaps we

can get the crux pitch done!




Do we haul kit and bear down? Do we go light and try for 'in a push' style?


It's an open question we leave for the afternoon. First we have to hike in.

The approach is now cake for me I've done it so many times now. It's pretty much etched in my

brain. Fortunately this time, no gnats, only rattlers. aka snakes...







We start up. The day looks good so far, but it's just a matter of time.




In fact, it does rain, blow and snow.




We wrap up what we can do, and head back to camp where there are coolers, food, campfires,

sleeping pads, and a whole lot slander talk.

One of these things is not like the other...






Well, it turns out Friday night and Saturday morning, it's snowing.

I poke my head out and white carpets the valley.



We sleep in. It melts fast down low, but the decision is made with the forecast turning worse

for the day. There is no longer a rush to go up Saturday. We'll optimize for Sunday as a push.




This is optimizing...




What really helps to solidify your plans and determination is watching someone else do amazing things.

Then you realize how 'light duty' you really are.

You see, Mooch's spouse was planning a trip over the Sierra from Onion Valley on the East Side to

Kings Canyon road's end on the West Side. I did a similar trip as a kid taking a leisurely week to see

Glenn Pass, Rae Lakes basin, Fin Dome and the Kings.

This gal got the snow storm that rolled thru and dumped half a foot in the upper reaches. She pushed

on. SIK!!!  TRANS SIERRA IN 10.5hrs. Cold, beat and broke, she rolls into our camp. For the next 2

days we are team light duty compared to this bad ass!

The next morning is forecasting really well. We get up pretty early and head up.



Just about ready to blast. Did we forget anything?  Maybe a cliffhanger hook? hrm...



In short order we jug our lines.



We eventually hit the top of 4 and I'm off the belay into the start of pitch 5 before the third is up.

Pitch 5 is the head space crux. Rated A3 "hooks, heads and pins" I'm not phased by it by now. It had

been years of thinking about it. Stewing on it. I just want to top it. I'm in the zone. There is very

little happening outside my field of view on this pitch. I try to communicate with Mucci, who has me

on the belay, so he knows what to expect if I rip.

Right off the belay you get hit with some free climbing, or a tension traverse with aid. It looks do-

able and I've doing some decent face climbing lately, so I plug a camalot and bust it. Not super hard,

but awkward move gets me to a incut lip on the ledge. ah good. "Now where the fuck can I get some

gear?  SHIT! I'm out 10 feet or so with no obvious gear before the next bolt.

Time slows.

I start using the pinnacles technique to see if the hollow flake will hold anything. 'dunk dunk dunk'

er, maybe. But something is better than nothing, right?  #3 camalot goes in, and set my mind to

figuring out how I can get to the next solid piece. Before I can get onto one of the bolts that Craig

replaced (Thx again Craig!), I need something to stand on to reach it.

Cleaning out a small crack/seam it looks like it would take a lost arrow beautifully, but someone has

mentioned that we should try and do the route clean. "WHAT?, I am here for fun. I'm putting in iron if

I have to." But as I'm standing there I realize I have the Lowe Balls. Why not try it?

Red gets set. I put the aider on it and step into the ladder without weighting it. I leg bounce test

it. So far so good.

This is a weird spot. I'm standing on good ledge, but only a shitty #3  camalot is between me and

bouncing off the ledge and taking a fat 30' whipper. Patience is key. Making sure this ball thingy is

going to work is critical. But I should tell you, I'm nervous. I had placed this red lowe ball a

minute ago. And it sheered right out with a leg bounce. I would have told you sooner, but I didn't

want to worry you unnecessarily.

I put more weight on it, holding a small flake with left hand, the aider in my right.







THWACK POP!!!! It's out. I momentarily lose balance and yell "FUCK" really loud.


I don't pop off the ledge. Now I'm worried. How am I going to reach this stupid bolt?  bah!

Then it occurs to me. There is a small flake about an inch lengthwise that has an incut behind it. I

had been using it and the downward slopping flake to the left to hold myself in balance. Pinnacles

technique to the rescue again. I take a BD dynex sling and layer it over the flake. Too long. So I

double it and carefully lay the webbing so that the top layer is holding the bottom layer onto the

flake. My mind makes it worse than it is. It holds beautifully and I'm standing in the stirrups tall

and proud. The bolt falls easily to my reach and clip.


It's not long after that clip, and the next, but then I'm stymied by the distance between some bolts.

I can't top step and reach, so I must be missing something. Hooks! I scan the surface. I see a couple

good edges but the first one is not enough and the next one is WAY out right. Maybe I can link the

two?  I start to get out my talon. It's wobbly. Not inspiring. I try the only other hook we brought (a

pointed  leeper) huh? it looks pretty good. I'm about to step up on it when all of sudden two things

happen. One, I see a small divot. Then it explodes in my head. DUH! bat hook holes. This route was

done in the 80s. Bat hooks were common to link blank sections quickly with minimal drilling and

minimal hardware loss.

The hook is bomber. Up I go, avoiding the desperate left to right moves from edges I would have had to

imagine my way thru.

The last bolt before the meat and potatoes of the pitch. I'm comfy. I feel good enough to start taking

pics.




But that quickly fades as I get back to work. A fixed LA is tapped in a half inch or so, and bounce

tests. I'm up. The LA doesn't give me much to work with except getting up high in the ladders, barely

gets me under a tooth of granite I'm able to get a cam behind. Who knows if this thing is going to

peel. Funky placed cams yield to some good granite higher. Distance between placements bring me to an

offset HB placement that is good for a downward pull. But then I'm at the KB in a real thin crack. I

try to get it to set, but it's no good. Bounce test blows it out and I accelerate backward to my nut.

I don't want to commit to a fixed rurp I see out left. It doesn't look like it goes anywhere. Maybe a

copperhead would take me up to some decent gear. Meh. What else?

I resort to a tried and true  Craig Peer method, and start digging out dirt. A couple of pebbles come

out of what looked like a KB size, and viola I've got a potential number 5 BD nut. sik!  It doesn't

want to go in the crack though. I fiddle some more, but no amount of finger pushing with gloves is

getting it to slide in. I resort to a light tap with the hammer to get it to set. It slides right in.

Like buttah!

Thin crack gives up a small hybrid alien (something that Peer and Co didn't have on the FA) behind a

thin topped part of the crack. It's enough. I don't have to use that rurp. I'm high enough now that I

can sling the bottom part of a partically detached flake. It's unnerving, but sounds pretty good. I

should be used to slinging shit by now. I loop the rest of a piece of it for protection, but if the

whole thing rips, I'm going to be flying into the corner. Again, high steppin produces results and I

can barely reach a decent hybrid into a non hybrid crack.



Bounce bounce buonce! Crap, it held, guess I gotta keep going. Another small alien on wet and crusty

rock, skipping a fixed cam, and finally get a perfect .5 camalot.



Some mungie seepage has me slipping around a bit, but it's C1 for a bit.

Just before the belay is a wide section. So glad we brought the WC#6. It leans left, has some slippery

seepage, and opens up to a pod ow size. Awkward as fuk!



I resort to cursing Craig, the crack, the slipping, and the short distance to the anchor. The Freak

Show is now public if it wasn't before.



I know this is nothing for long time Wallers, but I slow to a crawl and start to think again. THinking

can be the enemy. I'm worried I'm taking too long. I am, but if my partners are yelling at me for

being too slow (and they were for other reasons), I can't tell too much. An expando .75 cam and a red

camalot get me to the anchor after the wide and I'm thru it. It wasn't soooo bad. I took my time and

made the climb work for me. No winning speed ascent, but we're fixed, and relatively clean having not

placed any iron that wasn't already there.









With a lovely little swing back to the belay if it blows...



no big for Mucci, this guy does Yosemite beaking for breakfast! he makes easy party.



at least til he gets to the corner. I'll let him tell that part, but let's just say a cliffhanger hook

would have saved a lot of headache. lol!



Pitch 6 turns out to have a lot of dirt and moss in it and is fairly long. At one point I wasn't sure

I'd have enough to lower out. The lower out goes easy. I'm like an old pro, I wistfully think back,

but really I make bumblie mistakes like jugging too high on the piece and have to down jug to release

my ascenders just so I can clip into the piece and re-lead thru the traverse.

Mooch and I finish jugging and at the belay the filthy "munge" free climbing falls to Mooch. You can

see Mucci was glad not to be leading it.



Mooch takes us to just before the Borneo traverse. The traverse is shit. Some crawling thru manzanita

and brush finished with loose dirt and leaf hiking. blech. Luckily we didn't have big bags. I took the

time to pull up my ladders snug to my chest. That really helped minimize hang ups!

We are onto the descent ledge system right at dark. We've topped out. Glad it is finally over. 2 more

hours of descending and bypassing potential wrong turns and clifflets get us to within ear shot of Deb

and the car playing music. We followed the reggae out from there.





Freak Show Grade V 5.8 C2F+ mostly clean, in a push with fixed lines, likely third ascent overall. We never have to do it again!

« Last Edit: June 04, 2012, 09:19:48 am by mungeclimber »

skully

  • Guest
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #1 on: June 03, 2012, 09:51:30 pm »
The "Calvin & Hobbes Secret Move" May Be Involved.
Secret base is important. Fricken bathooks. Meh.Esthetically, anyway.
Get some, Mungeness.
It's 2012, already...........the Clock is ticking.
« Last Edit: June 03, 2012, 09:58:08 pm by skully »

Offline mungeclimber

  • Administrator
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 2257
    • View Profile
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #2 on: June 03, 2012, 10:52:36 pm »
what is the C&H secret move?


Offline mungeclimber

  • Administrator
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 2257
    • View Profile
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #3 on: June 04, 2012, 12:25:27 am »
are the pics not showing up?  Two of the ones I just did aren't popping. :(

skully

  • Guest
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #4 on: June 04, 2012, 12:41:33 am »
Nice show, RobMan. I was playin' about 'moves'. Does anyone have those? Meh.
There's yer Wall, Munge. Glory? Certainly. Adjust? Certainly.
It's all good, hoodwink...
« Last Edit: June 04, 2012, 12:43:44 am by skully »

Offline the_dude

  • A3+ Copper Bender
  • *****
  • Posts: 213
    • View Profile
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #5 on: June 04, 2012, 01:37:33 am »
Glad to see you finally handled it! Nice work and nice TR.

Offline mungeclimber

  • Administrator
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 2257
    • View Profile
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #6 on: June 04, 2012, 08:59:33 pm »
Thx guys! We were pretty stoked to top out on it as an early ascent and "clean."

I'm working with Mooch and Mucci on an updated topo. I'll probably send it to Craig and then post it up here.


Offline cobbledik

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 690
    • View Profile
    • Fail Falling
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #7 on: June 04, 2012, 10:20:51 pm »
Love it. Thx
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline *Mucci*

  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 422
    • View Profile
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #8 on: June 04, 2012, 11:37:36 pm »
Feels good to be finished. 

Pretty good route, down low you can get altitude easily and quickly.  The middle has some steepness, and the end is punishing.

Rob fired the crux, which had it all coming at you from what I saw.

P6 went down fast as lightning from behind my scope and SNP IN A CAN!! WHOOOOP!!

Ahhhh, yeah, offroute, lassoing, head banging against the MFING rock cuz I needed a MF CLiff hanger!!! AHHGHGHGGHHG

Temporary blindness caused by uncontrollable adventure overload via hummocks and super thuggish (1 #6 friend size thug) cam jugging through coffee grounds pastered on the sides of the flare from hell. 

I got dealt on a C2 pitch...
Natural belay!
No rain, finally.
After some cool free climbing P5
General LD MAYO! Double Down Daly about to fire the best hummock finish to a wall I have ever seen!!!

Fu**ing Craig :)

Offline mungeclimber

  • Administrator
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 2257
    • View Profile
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #9 on: June 05, 2012, 08:46:03 am »
good snapshot of the forecast!

compared to the snow that hit Saturday, quite the contrast!

Offline Craig Peer

  • A3 Fool
  • ****
  • Posts: 103
    • View Profile
    • http://www.summitpost.org/user_page.php?user_id=5092
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #10 on: June 05, 2012, 10:00:55 am »
Nice work you guys ! That was for sure the 3rd ascent.

Now the question is - who is going to do the 2nd ascent of Cosmopolis on the Grand Sentinel ?? I'm offering myself as porter - top and bottom.

Offline Craig Peer

  • A3 Fool
  • ****
  • Posts: 103
    • View Profile
    • http://www.summitpost.org/user_page.php?user_id=5092
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #11 on: June 05, 2012, 10:29:37 am »
Or the 2nd ascent of Invisible Nebulie ! 


Offline mungeclimber

  • Administrator
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 2257
    • View Profile
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #12 on: June 05, 2012, 11:00:13 am »
Thinking about it.

The question is when? The logistics of Kings are something of trick. The summer is blazing hot. It is the Sierra, so it's unpredictable. That side gets afternoon shade, so a late season attempt in the Autumn could me really cold. The Park closes early compared to Yosemite's year round deal. The snakes are everywhere. The bears shit huge piles of grassy something.

Offline Craig Peer

  • A3 Fool
  • ****
  • Posts: 103
    • View Profile
    • http://www.summitpost.org/user_page.php?user_id=5092
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #13 on: June 05, 2012, 11:24:17 am »
June 2013. Schedule me now ( I like to plan way in advance ).  Email me for logistical advice.

Offline Craig Peer

  • A3 Fool
  • ****
  • Posts: 103
    • View Profile
    • http://www.summitpost.org/user_page.php?user_id=5092
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #14 on: June 11, 2012, 02:29:55 pm »

Offline mungeclimber

  • Administrator
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 2257
    • View Profile
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #15 on: August 27, 2012, 11:24:13 pm »



Forgot we had these on FB. Got an email for beta recently so thinking about this now. Do I hear a 4th ascent?
« Last Edit: August 29, 2012, 11:55:01 pm by mungeclimber »

Offline mungeclimber

  • Administrator
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 2257
    • View Profile
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #16 on: August 27, 2012, 11:25:06 pm »
« Last Edit: August 29, 2012, 11:54:01 pm by mungeclimber »

Offline mungeclimber

  • Administrator
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 2257
    • View Profile
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #17 on: August 27, 2012, 11:25:40 pm »
« Last Edit: August 29, 2012, 11:56:06 pm by mungeclimber »

Offline mungeclimber

  • Administrator
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 2257
    • View Profile
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #18 on: August 27, 2012, 11:26:18 pm »


are these showing up ok?
« Last Edit: August 29, 2012, 11:57:48 pm by mungeclimber »

Offline MikeMcee

  • Gumby
  • *
  • Posts: 16
    • View Profile
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #19 on: August 28, 2012, 08:49:09 am »
The red X's are showing up great, the pics...not so much.

Offline mungeclimber

  • Administrator
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 2257
    • View Profile
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #20 on: August 28, 2012, 11:26:52 am »
:(

k, I'll move copies to my flickr.

skully

  • Guest
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #21 on: August 28, 2012, 03:00:03 pm »
Much Mo better. Thanks, Munge! Those are cool.

Offline mungeclimber

  • Administrator
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 2257
    • View Profile
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #22 on: August 29, 2012, 11:58:38 pm »
fixed the last three

Offline Wes Goulding

  • A1 fiend
  • **
  • Posts: 32
    • View Profile
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #23 on: April 20, 2014, 11:40:35 pm »
Good job!  Congrats. Nice TR.

Thanks

Wes

Offline mungeclimber

  • Administrator
  • A4+ Dreamer
  • *****
  • Posts: 2257
    • View Profile
    • http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
Re: Freak Show 2012
« Reply #24 on: April 27, 2014, 05:49:31 pm »
thx Wes