Author Topic: TR: Tribal Rite via New Dawn 12 days on the wall. *crosspost from st*  (Read 1518 times)

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Offline cobbledik

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Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: TR: Tribal Rite via New Dawn 12 days on the wall. *crosspost from st*
« Reply #1 on: March 31, 2014, 12:48:17 pm »
Posted up my thx for this on ST as well. Superb job and write up!

Couple questions came up, but have to work first...

Offline cobbledik

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Re: TR: Tribal Rite via New Dawn 12 days on the wall. *crosspost from st*
« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2014, 10:15:11 am »
Question away!
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mhudon

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Re: TR: Tribal Rite via New Dawn 12 days on the wall. *crosspost from st*
« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2014, 10:22:25 am »
Awesome route, isn't it?

Offline johnmac

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Re: TR: Tribal Rite via New Dawn 12 days on the wall. *crosspost from st*
« Reply #4 on: April 01, 2014, 10:27:44 am »
Fantastic effort and a great TR to boot!

Inspiring stuff.

What's next?

Offline cobbledik

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Re: TR: Tribal Rite via New Dawn 12 days on the wall. *crosspost from st*
« Reply #5 on: April 01, 2014, 12:38:37 pm »
I wouldn't call it an awesome route. I'd call it a fun moderate that is concerning at time but never really giving you that FEAR that I associate with an awesome route.

Next up is finishing Prowd once the weather breaks. Then two concurrent Valley FA bigwall projects that are already started(on opposite sides of the valley just for fun) doing the Shield with my gf in two weeks. Then a solo of either native son or Atlantic Ocean wall (hopefully once Tom's in the valley) and maybe a smaller wall solo on Washington Column while I wait for Tom to get to the valley, (either reanimated or slab route)

Plus, there's always Roulette on my list (which I've now prepped, approached, touched, and bailed from over five times) and finishing up Horni-Johnson with Mucci and Ezra if there's ever time.

That, and I need to write up my TRs for Premeditated and Icarus in the pinnacles and for Afroman, Laughing at the Void, Wet Denim Daydream, and West Face of LT.

Yeah, I've got a few plans.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: TR: Tribal Rite via New Dawn 12 days on the wall. *crosspost from st*
« Reply #6 on: April 01, 2014, 04:30:26 pm »
hop to it man! we don't have all day! more TRs!!   :mrgreen:
« Last Edit: April 01, 2014, 11:37:44 pm by mungeclimber »

Offline cobbledik

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Re: TR: Tribal Rite via New Dawn 12 days on the wall. *crosspost from st*
« Reply #7 on: April 01, 2014, 05:11:39 pm »
Next is Afroman or finishing Premeditated
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: TR: Tribal Rite via New Dawn 12 days on the wall. *crosspost from st*
« Reply #8 on: April 01, 2014, 11:40:04 pm »
First question: how many more totems are you planning on buying?
second question: can I borrow them?
third question: if you get on something epic, are you going to pay me in BLLs to borrow my totems, or chili beer?

think very carefully about that last one before answering.  :evil:

Offline mungeclimber

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Re: TR: Tribal Rite via New Dawn 12 days on the wall. *crosspost from st*
« Reply #9 on: April 01, 2014, 11:47:11 pm »
4th: those death blocks on the pitch just before lay lady p8... fuk a duk!  Are they on Eric's topo?

5th: On p8, after reading this, I thought it reminded me of the pitch above Peanut. can't be too bad, right? not technically hard, loose runout, probably be ok as a free climb. Splitter. Need to leapclean which lead to risk of big falls.

Quote
I didnít think it would be too bad considering itís C1 rating, but this pitch kicked my ass. Though never technically hard, looseness and runouts were the name of the game. Though the pitch would probably be okay with a free rack and a belayer, with all the mess and tangle of soloing, C1 without much freeclimbing was the only way for me to go. The crack was splitter and sucked up my cams very quickly. Looking up at the distance I still needed to go I quickly lowered and retrieved much of my gear. From this point on I realized that I would need to back clean as much as possible to still have the gear and energy to make the belay. Soon I was leapfrogging the few cams that would fit and looking at 60í falls should I make a mistake in my placements. My climbing slowed to a crawl as I tested my gear multiple times to feel secure before moving higher and facing longer and longer falls.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: TR: Tribal Rite via New Dawn 12 days on the wall. *crosspost from st*
« Reply #10 on: April 02, 2014, 12:53:11 pm »
1. At least doubles of blue and yellow, and probably purple. Just waiting for restocking now. I got my totem basic offset stuck on Prowd and had to get Fixe alien offsets to replace. NOT happy at all with the Fixe cams as they have a wider head than the totem basics and weirder action imo, so I'm waiting to replace that one with another totem basic offset even though i have coverage with "regular" fixe aliens.

2. No. Last time someone borrowed my totems they took the red one and threw off the side of the mountain. I'm not going to name names, but it rhymes with mucci, and is mucci. (But mucci replaced it with a brand new one and we still climb on the one he tossed off Washington Column so more Totem props.)

3. You have to TRY the chili beer first before I decide on what to offer.

4. The death blocks are on pitch 8 ABOVE Lay Lady. and they show up on Erik's topo at yosemitebigwall.com but not on the Supertopo.

5. The flakes on the pitch above peanut are thin enough to make it much more spicy. This pitch's cracks are deep, solid, but splitter.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline johnmac

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Re: TR: Tribal Rite via New Dawn 12 days on the wall. *crosspost from st*
« Reply #11 on: April 05, 2014, 01:46:01 pm »
I like the quick link idea that you are using on your aiders. I use another locking biner but it gets in the way. The quick link looks a lot smaller. Its hard to see whether it is a Petzl Maillon which is about 2 inches by 1 or whether it is the home depot version. I think the home depot version has a working strength of about 800lbs ....


Offline cobbledik

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Re: TR: Tribal Rite via New Dawn 12 days on the wall. *crosspost from st*
« Reply #12 on: April 06, 2014, 09:10:06 am »
They're just homedepot stainless quick links. I would propbay use millions if I had them but I never remember to pick them up. Not too much of an issue because the thin tie-off webbing in use for my camhooks isn't that strong. That being said, I've taken a factor two daisy fall onto an inverted camhook with the Home Depot quicklink and the tie-off webbing so it has to hold at least 1% of the time.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline Wes Goulding

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Re: TR: Tribal Rite via New Dawn 12 days on the wall. *crosspost from st*
« Reply #13 on: April 16, 2014, 06:57:26 pm »
Cobbledik

Wow! Congrats on this huge climb. Great trip report as well.

Thanks for your many posts, tr's & videos.  I still get a kick out of the one where you go to hammer the pin and it flys into the void. I learned a lot from that one, thanks again.

Take care
Wes

Offline cobbledik

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Re: TR: Tribal Rite via New Dawn 12 days on the wall. *crosspost from st*
« Reply #14 on: April 17, 2014, 05:30:52 pm »
ah yes, the joys of riverside quarry kitty litter.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline johnmac

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Re: TR: Tribal Rite via New Dawn 12 days on the wall. *crosspost from st*
« Reply #15 on: April 19, 2014, 01:37:25 pm »
The solar wrap you are using is that the Bushnell's Solarwrap 250? If so, would you recommend it? Thanks.

Offline cobbledik

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Re: TR: Tribal Rite via New Dawn 12 days on the wall. *crosspost from st*
« Reply #16 on: April 21, 2014, 08:15:16 pm »
It was light and it worked well when it had direct sunlight. It wouldn't charge in non-direct light though. So I'm not sure if I'd recommend it as the only energy source. I had three battery packs to use when the solarwrap wouldn't charge. I've returned it and am still trying out other ones to see what charges the best in non-direct sunlight. It certainly is lighter than some of the other cells I've used and use. It also rolls up into a plastic container that protects it during hauling and approach/descent.

Overall, it's not bad, but I'm hoping to find better.
Sometimes the difference between a layman and a journeyman is simply what he is allowed to believe himself to be.

Offline johnmac

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Re: TR: Tribal Rite via New Dawn 12 days on the wall. *crosspost from st*
« Reply #17 on: April 22, 2014, 10:43:52 am »
Thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated.