Big Walls Forum

Big Wall Index => Big Wall Forum => Topic started by: dindolino32 on October 07, 2014, 12:05:17 am

Title: question about an obscure route called "The Nose"
Post by: dindolino32 on October 07, 2014, 12:05:17 am
Well we have the time off and are ready to go for it.  I compared both the Supertopo and YosemiteBigwalls topo and am really impressed at how much more efficient and detailed the YosBigwalls topo is, so great job guys!  You also shaved off 3+ pitches too. 
BUT I have a few questions
1.The 55m haul from P16-18.  The total route length is 120' and 110' for the leader, so does the follower need to jug each pitch separately and leave the bag on the ledge (or fifi)?  Or do I need to just use long slings and link them?
2. Also I have a 60m and a 70m lead line but only a 60m static so I was going to leave the 70m at home so we don't have to deal with extra rope.  Would it be advantageous to bring a 70m when I am limited by the static? This seems like the only way to solve question #1.
3. Lastly, are there any mandatory reachy sections that would be impossible for my 5 foot tall wife?  We already did a dolt run in a day and found that pitch 3 would have been nasty for her to lead.  I would really like her to top out with the last two pitches.
Thanks in advance and wish us luck!
Title: Re: question about an obscure route called "The Nose"
Post by: RP3 on October 07, 2014, 02:17:24 pm
1) Don't link. You will have the worst rope drag in the universe (unless you place almost no pro).

2) Use the 60. The extra 10 meters will be extra weight.

3) Some of the less "cracky" pitches may be harder. I bet pitch 3 is the short person crux. My 5'4" girlfriend has led the last pitches no problem. I dont remember her complaining about it being reachy, but we were in the courtship phase at the time, and she was trying to impress me...
Title: Re: question about an obscure route called "The Nose"
Post by: dindolino32 on October 07, 2014, 08:07:20 pm
Thanks for the answer.  As for question #1, the Topo says to haul 55 meters from P16-18. If my partner is with me, and we left the haulbag at 16, then how do we release the haulbag?
Title: Re: question about an obscure route called "The Nose"
Post by: RP3 on October 08, 2014, 07:25:58 am
The last time I hauled the nose, I cleaned ~1/3 of the Great Roof, lowered to the haulbag, released it, and jugged up.

The fifi thing (while many people swear by it) kinda scares me. I have no strong opinions on its safety, it just spooks me. I bet the bigwall gurus on this site may have some wisdom about putting the haulbag on a fifi. What do you all think?
Title: Re: question about an obscure route called "The Nose"
Post by: cobbledik on October 08, 2014, 11:07:19 am
As long as there's no roof (mark had an issue on AO wall I think) the fifi is great... Buuuut I've never used it for a fully weighted haul bag soooo a grain of salt. I've also only used the Petzl fifi with the sliding quicklink as well. Always weirded out to use a regular fifi for that.
Title: Re: question about an obscure route called "The Nose"
Post by: Rags on October 11, 2014, 01:13:42 pm
Here's one idea. http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1689545/Safetying-your-Tag-Bag-with-the-Slippery-Knot

It looks reasonable. I'd test it with full bag to make sure it releases once the knots are weighted.
Title: Re: question about an obscure route called "The Nose"
Post by: dindolino32 on October 14, 2014, 05:06:08 pm
Well specifically for this route and my lack of experience with any of those methods, I ended up doing the easiest and safest thing I could think of.  After my wife cleaned the second pitch, she rappelled to the previous anchor to release it and jugged up.  I didn't want to risk anything and she wanted the extra exercise anyway! It didn't add any extra work for me, and I got a little break too.  I guess it was a win-win situation right?  :-D
Title: Re: question about an obscure route called "The Nose"
Post by: cobbledik on October 14, 2014, 11:39:10 pm
that's what I would have done. Speed is for the people that complain about not having enough pictures when the climb is over.
Title: Re: question about an obscure route called "The Nose"
Post by: RP3 on October 15, 2014, 07:40:21 am
that's what I would have done. Speed is for the people that complain about not having enough pictures when the climb is over.

That made me giggle!

Well done dindolino! Whats next?
Title: Re: question about an obscure route called "The Nose"
Post by: dindolino32 on October 16, 2014, 08:25:48 pm
I don't know, what's next.  Prob actually write a trip report  :-D .  I had 2 big goals this year, the nose and the rostrum... so I better work on my strength.  Thanks everyone,  the nose has been on my bucket list for years but it only became even a reasonable goal this year, so I am pretty satisfied.