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Big Wall Index => Big Wall Forum => Topic started by: mungeclimber on May 23, 2015, 12:39:39 am

Title: Minimum Lead diameter you'd do an aid pitch on, and how hard?
Post by: mungeclimber on May 23, 2015, 12:39:39 am
Just bought a new cord on a deal. 70m so I can fit in with my friends. But she's a spritely 9.7.

Now I'd seen some 10mm back in the 90s that looked about as a small a diameter as this.

What's the smallest diameter you'd bust a A3 on?

I still got my 10.2 supersafe, but let's face it, it won't last forever, and Bosque, Cobble and Mucci keep eye'ing it for fixing projects.
Title: Re: Minimum Lead diameter you'd do an aid pitch on, and how hard?
Post by: csproul on May 23, 2015, 09:44:01 am
Not that I have a ton of aid experience, but I think it really depends on the rope. Diameters don't mean a whole lot in and of themselves. FIrst of all, they vary a lot between different brands. I have 9.7 ropes from one manufacturer that are thicker than 10.0 from another. The main issue for me with a thin rope is abrasion resistance, and again, diameter doesn't necessarily predict this very well either. My 9.8 Mammut has held up to aiding/jugging much better than a Beal 10.0 (although it has a much better climbing "feel").
Title: Re: Minimum Lead diameter you'd do an aid pitch on, and how hard?
Post by: *Mucci* on May 23, 2015, 11:58:52 am
I like a 11MM Blue Water for any foray into dangerous territory be it A1 or whatever.  Whatever you choose make sure it is the right amount of girth to keep you in the show if it all went fubar.

Heh


Having said that, a 10.2-10.5 is standard me thinks.

I have lead on a 9.5 without much worry.  Depends on the pitch.

Title: Re: Minimum Lead diameter you'd do an aid pitch on, and how hard?
Post by: mungeclimber on May 23, 2015, 01:04:55 pm
So, think in terms of your hardest pitch, only nominal chance of rope dragging over an arÍte, would you go as low as say a 9mm?

It's almost like Russian Roulette, each piece being another spin. Or is it?
Title: Re: Minimum Lead diameter you'd do an aid pitch on, and how hard?
Post by: *Mucci* on May 23, 2015, 01:21:28 pm
No way jose.  Anything really hard is hard because of the surrounding features that might mess you up.  That and tons of iron.

9.5 would be my cutoff, and that would have to be a pitch with no iron or other metal camshackles in the mix that might slice my shizzle on the way down

I bet on something like the nose, a 10mm is on the big side for most of the fast teams.
Title: Re: Minimum Lead diameter you'd do an aid pitch on, and how hard?
Post by: mungeclimber on May 24, 2015, 07:09:28 pm
I bet yer right about Nose cord diameters.

40 Hawks = 13mm
Title: Re: Minimum Lead diameter you'd do an aid pitch on, and how hard?
Post by: Garbonzo on May 25, 2015, 09:52:03 pm
It is less the lead, and more the jugging to clean it.  A skinny line rasping away on an edge is scary as hell.  10mm is abput my comfort limit for jugging stuff, but I am rather fat.
Title: Re: Minimum Lead diameter you'd do an aid pitch on, and how hard?
Post by: mungeclimber on May 25, 2015, 10:48:41 pm
New thread for minimum cord you'd jug on?  :)

I've hear horror stories of 7mm.  like, what?
Title: Re: Minimum Lead diameter you'd do an aid pitch on, and how hard?
Post by: cobbledik on May 25, 2015, 11:12:29 pm
I've jugged a 7mm tag line. It was less than comforting, but no difference in the actual jugging part.
Title: Re: Minimum Lead diameter you'd do an aid pitch on, and how hard?
Post by: mungeclimber on May 25, 2015, 11:57:42 pm
with petzl ascenders?
Title: Re: Minimum Lead diameter you'd do an aid pitch on, and how hard?
Post by: RP3 on May 26, 2015, 02:25:27 pm
We all know that girth matters more than length...
Title: Re: Minimum Lead diameter you'd do an aid pitch on, and how hard?
Post by: mungeclimber on May 26, 2015, 03:59:40 pm
heh

but light is right! 

uh, I mean, I use a HUGE rope diameter.
Title: Re: Minimum Lead diameter you'd do an aid pitch on, and how hard?
Post by: lambone on May 28, 2015, 11:10:30 pm
Mammut Supersafe 10.2 is as small as I'll take on the wall. And only because it's edge-rated. Same goes for jugging on a dynamic line.

I've jugged 9 mil statics, but generally try to avoid that.