Big Walls Forum

Big Wall Index => Big Wall Forum => Topic started by: *Mucci* on August 03, 2015, 10:16:38 pm

Title: Capsule style
Post by: *Mucci* on August 03, 2015, 10:16:38 pm
I like to fix em high and bivy in the same spot, if it's good.

Sometimes, it's easier than rigging up the triple stack at the end of each day.

Bring many ropes, like 4 or 5.  I feel weird without at least 4.

Rapping in each night, after the hard days work is MO bettah.  No "set up time", just straight to the safety convention.

Don't forget the rope protectors.



Title: Re: Capsule style
Post by: mungeclimber on August 03, 2015, 11:28:07 pm
yes. when blue collar projecting, it's the only way to go. You've got like two days on the weekend, maybe 3 on occasion, and everything takes way longer than a trade route per pitch.

digging dirt. breaking out crystals. bouncing every piece. drilling anchors. making coffee. eating Hostess Apple Pies.

Shit takes time.
Title: Re: Capsule style
Post by: mungeclimber on August 03, 2015, 11:32:24 pm
but how do you rig when capsuling?

You lose lockers the more you fix.


What knot?


Title: Re: Capsule style
Post by: mungeclimber on August 03, 2015, 11:44:55 pm
mayhaps, this one?

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/528/20090108628_de68656681_c.jpg)
Title: Re: Capsule style
Post by: mungeclimber on August 03, 2015, 11:50:05 pm
don't mind the knife cut. :)

http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/BunnyEars.htm
Title: Re: Capsule style
Post by: *Mucci* on August 04, 2015, 08:10:07 am
I think it is applicable to a moderate/hard route that will take 5-7 days.

Think about what EE and Kate do, sometimes capsule, other times they move it up each day.

Bring 240 carabiners, 6 lockers.
Title: Re: Capsule style
Post by: mungeclimber on August 04, 2015, 11:54:40 am
6 lockers??!?!?!?!?

Title: Re: Capsule style
Post by: *Mucci* on August 04, 2015, 01:53:50 pm
Ok, Ok.

Just bring duct tape and leave the lockers at home.
Title: Re: Capsule style
Post by: Prod on August 04, 2015, 06:22:54 pm
Sounds about right. The only reason I like wall climbing is the camping part. The rest of it is work.

Prod.
Title: Re: Capsule style
Post by: cobbledik on August 05, 2015, 09:28:28 am
Jugging 400-600' of rope every morning is good for the soul.
Title: Re: Capsule style
Post by: mungeclimber on August 05, 2015, 11:03:29 am
Jugging 400-600' of rope every morning is good for the soul.

ordinarily, I'd tell you to go fuk yerself, but faith is never easy. Each time I had to go back up, it required a centering, 2 limes, and cajoling Miwok into going first. ;)