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Big Wall Index => Big Wall Forum => Topic started by: the_dude on February 09, 2006, 09:24:43 pm

Title: wall Shoes
Post by: the_dude on February 09, 2006, 09:24:43 pm
I've been using Five Ten guide tennies for a while. They free climb the best out of any approach shoes I've used so far. The only problem is my arches get sore after standing in slings all day. I was thinking of trying a new shoe. What are you all using? any recommendations?
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: mungeclimber on February 10, 2006, 01:14:06 pm
Boreal Big Wall boot is what I have circa 1990ish.

good for standing in slings all day, pretty decent free climbing, but not as good as the guide tennie cinched down oddly enough. The guide tennie is more sensitive.
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: freakshow on February 12, 2006, 11:33:03 am
I use jogging shoes and they are pure torture.....sore to stand in all day, toes get munched, and they're terrible for free climbing.  If I have to do some free climbing I'll keep my rock shoes on my harness until I need them.  Can't afford to buy more gear for a while so big wall shoes will have to wait.
Title: wall shoes
Post by: needlz on March 06, 2006, 06:29:08 pm
I've been thinking of getting a pair of the Five Tennies, but I've seen some reviews saying the rubber sole peals off fairly early in their life.  I've had this problem with several pairs of Five-Ten climbing shoes over time.  I think it has something to do with the Stealth rubber.  It doesn't seem to hold glue as well as other rubbers.  Are the shoes worth it for a cheap aid / approach shoe?
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: the_dude on March 07, 2006, 04:53:48 pm
That's kinda the problem with Five-Ten... Five or Ten pitches max. Actually My guide tennies have held up better than I thought they would. It seems like all shoes blow out with the abuse wall climbing gives them. I was just looking at Five-Tens new Insight model, might give them a spin. They look like their a bit beefier than the guide tennie.
Title: Re: wall shoes
Post by: mungeclimber on March 07, 2006, 11:37:53 pm
Quote from: needlz
I've been thinking of getting a pair of the Five Tennies, but I've seen some reviews saying the rubber sole peals off fairly early in their life.  I've had this problem with several pairs of Five-Ten climbing shoes over time.  I think it has something to do with the Stealth rubber.  It doesn't seem to hold glue as well as other rubbers.  Are the shoes worth it for a cheap aid / approach shoe?


I haven't had any problem with mine over the last half year delaminating, until I was in death valley around a camp fire and smelled the rubber burning. heat will delam. So now I trip over my toes with that flap of rubber. gotta get some shoe go or something.  anyone got a c-clamp?
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: syrinx on April 06, 2006, 11:42:03 am
I use a cheep ass pair of hiking boots from the local discount store. I  look mainly for comfort and a hard  soul to match my hard sole.  I then paint all the stiching and the tow area with tool-dip for added durability. Generally they suck for free climbing and will only last two walls but  it's cheap!

Syrinx
Title: Big wall boots
Post by: spyork on April 06, 2006, 12:13:11 pm
I was gonna use a pair of montrail hiking boots I have. They will prolly suck for free climbing though. They are comfortable and have a rigid sole though. They were the only size 12.5 boots I could find at the time. My big feet are a PITA to get fitted for.

Steve
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: zetedog on April 06, 2006, 07:53:18 pm
Didn't intend them to be aid shoes,  but I bought a pair of the montrail CTC last year for long day hikes with scrambles.

The toe box is slightly narrow, but has a full rand, edges decently well, and provides adequate support in aiders.

Of course, east coast walls are much shorter, so don't konw how'd they feel on day two. but they were better than the asics that I had been using.

Todd
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: fareastclimber on April 07, 2006, 06:15:19 am
I use a pair of Garmont Sticky Twists that I am please with. Stiff sole and rigid toe and a design where the arch of your foot doesn't seem to stick out of the sides, minimising any aider foot pain.
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: lunchbox on April 08, 2006, 02:01:16 pm
i'm on my 2nd pair of La Sport's Exem Ridge.  it's a trail running shoe that's a little bit like a hiking boot with really sticky rubber.  it has a stiff mid sole in the arch and feels great in aiders.  they free climb really well too, once you wear off  the sticky dots on the bottom.

i used a pair of guide tennies for a couple of walls but the arch and toes box broken down pretty fast.
Title: insoles
Post by: MontyB on April 09, 2006, 08:03:56 pm
has anyone experimented with a stiff insole like superfeet for wall shoes?  I've got a pair of guide tennies I like, but the are a bit floppy for any extended use in aiders.  Plus I think a little extra stiffness might not hurt on the free climbing side too.  Any opinions/experiences with this?
Title: Wal Shoes
Post by: Baltoro on April 21, 2006, 01:30:46 pm
I've got a pair of guide tennies that have held up really well so far. I wear them at work basically every day during the week and I'm in a warehouse and they see a fair amount of abuse. Only have a few aid and free pitches on them but they climb quite well. One thing to note is that 5.10 updated the tennie with some sort of stiffening plastic thing under the arch, making them much nicer to stand in aiders than previous models. I don't know if those of you who've used them had this or not.
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: euroford on April 21, 2006, 08:30:26 pm
i picked up a pair of montrail d7's a couple of weeks ago.  i have a couple of pitches on them so far; they came highly recomended and are exceesing expectations.  comfy walking, comfy in aiders, randing looks tough, sticky rubber, excellent scrambling and i'd feel pretty confident on low 5th free climbing.
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: syrinx on April 22, 2006, 11:58:35 pm
On my recent leaning tower trip (http://bigwalls.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=40) I used a pair of Sportiva Makalu's. They worked great for the little climbing that actually got done. I could not feel the aiders cuttingo my feet at all.

Syrinx
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: mungeclimber on April 23, 2006, 11:19:45 pm
Quote from: mungeclimber
Boreal Big Wall boot is what I have circa 1990ish.

good for standing in slings all day, pretty decent free climbing, but not as good as the guide tennie cinched down oddly enough. The guide tennie is more sensitive.


correction, they are getting more sensitive now that I used them again.
I think I'm going to run a bead of seam grip on them to prevent excess wear and tear between the sole and upper.
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: syrinx on April 24, 2006, 08:44:25 am
Good idea using seam grip. I cove the entire toe of my boot with tool-dip (plasti-dip), smae thing I use for the ledge and bag as well.

Syrinx
Title: La Sprtiva B5's
Post by: needlz on June 30, 2006, 01:41:47 pm
I recently acquired a pair of La Sprtiva B5's.  I've done some climbing up to 5.9 in em and they seem like they'll be great.  Aiders don't cut into my arches at all.  They are an approach shoe with a climbing edge on the toe box and a rounded rubber toebox and heel. They are way more comfortable than my hiking boots and scramble over talus much better.  I'm about to head up Salathe Wall this week and I'll post back on how they hold up.

cheers,
j
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: blackrider on July 04, 2006, 02:14:36 am
Just picked up some La Sportiva Guide shoes . Have to still give them a ran around the block before I can weigh in on how good they are as a wall shoe. I"ll weigh in after that.
'
Title: Re: La Sprtiva B5's
Post by: mungeclimber on July 04, 2006, 10:13:28 am
Quote from: needlz
I recently acquired a pair of La Sprtiva B5's.  I've done some climbing up to 5.9 in em and they seem like they'll be great.  Aiders don't cut into my arches at all.  They are an approach shoe with a climbing edge on the toe box and a rounded rubber toebox and heel. They are way more comfortable than my hiking boots and scramble over talus much better.  I'm about to head up Salathe Wall this week and I'll post back on how they hold up.

cheers,
j


more power to ya

btw, I saw these at Larry's site...

http://www.mountaintools.com/cat/rclimb/rshoes/BorealBigwallClimbingShoe.htm

(http://www.mountaintools.com/cat/rclimb/rshoes/images/bor_bigwalboots00.jpg)
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: routehogger on July 13, 2006, 10:37:49 am
I'v used North Face Builderings. Moderately stiff, but the Vibram shoe is starting to peel badly. TB honest, I'v worn 'em for pretty much 24/7 the past 6 months so aiding alone is not to blame...

I'v been thinking getting Kayland Vertigos which would double nicely as a hiking boot

RH
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: the_dude on August 29, 2006, 02:50:58 pm
I tried out a pair of mad Rock Fanatics  on WC. Maybe a got them a bit to small, but the stiff rubber over the toes caused a pressure point when standing in aiders. The arch had enough support though. The rubber didn't feel that secure on the rock untill it scuffed up a bit. So far, not completely sold on em. I just picked up a pair of La Sportiva Cirque Pros. The look like a beefed up version of the guide tennie but with a bit more rand. I'm gonna give em a try on EC in a few weeks and I'll post my results.
Cheers
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: mungeclimber on August 29, 2006, 04:51:22 pm
thx the_dude

hope to hear the story of how they fare.



I got a pair too. REI they are on sale for like 20% off.
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: Craig Peer on August 29, 2006, 06:01:38 pm
I'd like to know how they do too. Wall shoes have been a problem for quite a while!!
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: euroford on August 29, 2006, 08:22:43 pm
i thought i would update re: my montrail d7's after using them on the diamond.

as far as the aid climbing and scrambling went, i just couldn't be happier.  they were comfortable and performed extremely well.  they also show little or no damage other than some treadwear.  the sticky rubber was awsome for sketchy scrambling with a pig on my back.

one problem though.  the narow toebox is great for climbing and makes stepping up in aiders easy, but the descent with a huge pig -killed- my big toes.  big time.  its a month later, and my left toenail is falling off.  every step was excrusiating as my toes were pounded into the front of the shoe.  

so, grade a+ for wall climbing, grade b+ for scrambling, grade f for long descents with huge loads.
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: the_dude on August 29, 2006, 08:24:40 pm
Quote from: mungeclimber
I got a pair too. REI they are on sale for like 20% off.

Yup, thats exactly where I got mine.
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: mungeclimber on August 29, 2006, 10:23:23 pm
euroford, i ended up doing two sizes of my Guide Tennies. One pair that I mistakenly bought too big. I use that pair for the longer scrambles that have heinous down.  Very sloppy on the climbing though. Trade offs, ya know.
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: euroford on August 31, 2006, 08:06:15 am
i of course had also thought about packing along a pair of shoes more suitable to the hiking, but decided against it for weight and bulk reasons.  obviously, in retrospect i realize the extra 1 pound would have been entirly inconsiquential and vastly more endurable than the viscous toe pounding.

i had also thought the montrails would be 'good enough'.  for the record, 'good enough' is NOT good enough for hiking pigs to and from the diamond!  such endevours require 'the best'.

i guess its all about balance, you can't have 'the best' wall shoe also be 'the best' hiker.  i really do belive the Montrail D7 is the best aid climbing shoe your money can buy; new, at your favorite gear store, without needing any customization.  its also a dang good scrambler, and a decent free climber (i've only climbed it up to 5.7, of course i don't often free climb harder than 5.7 in the first place....), but only a passable hiker.  i'll still wear it out to my local crag, but anything more than a couple of miles i'm going to be wearing.....

my merrells.  i've had the best luck with the merrell chameleon line.  for some reason they have always taken a week or so to break in, but when they do they are the most comfortable, lightweight trail eating hiking shoe i've ever had.  i'm on pair four, i get about 1 year of near daily use per pair.  they have proven to be adiquate free climbers, good scramblers, good aid climbers and supurb hikers.
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: caribouman on September 07, 2006, 01:07:45 pm
A wall boot suggestion for those of you who might have some old PA's or Canyons in the closet:  When the soles of my Canyons were nearly worn out, I belt-sanded the soles to give them more shape. (2.5mm at the heel, 1mm under the arch, 4mm under the ball down to near zero at the tip of the toe)  Then I took them to a shoe repair shop with my C4 resole kit in hand, and they did the rest.  The result is great for standing in etriers, getting my feet in and out of them, edging on dimes (if I can find 'em), and wide cracks.  The drawback is that they cannot work as an approach shoe:  the lack of tread that makes for smooth aid footwork is too sketchy on grit-covered approaches.  Anyway, it might be a relatively cheap solution to an old problem.
                               Cheers, Caribouman
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: Feral Rat on September 20, 2006, 09:24:38 pm
the guide tennies seem to work for me.  They are only good for about 2 el cap routes bofore a resole is needed.  An insole makes them better as well as a good pair of socks.  I do not like big heavy boots as it makes it harder for me to use my feet.  Sometime I just were a comfortable pair of climbing shoes with good socks.
Title: wall Shoes
Post by: the_dude on October 09, 2006, 08:12:46 pm
I gave the La Sportiva Cirque Pros a test run this week in the valley. After one wall the are still in great shape. The toes wore down a bit but not any more than any other wall shoe. No delaming or other signs of wear. They ended up being pretty comfy standing in slings. The rubber seemed alittle slick at first but once scuffed up a bit they preformed much better. The actually free climbed alright, not quite as sensitive as the guide tennies though. Overall I think there a Keeper.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: needlz on July 08, 2008, 05:22:57 pm
Well, I finally killed my B5's so I figured I'd let everyone know how they suffered.  I really liked them alot and put about 30 real aid pitches on them and wore them on countless other cragging treks.  They never hurt my arches and they free climbed pretty well too.  Towards the end, the rubber started to get slick.  I've seen this in my other la sportiva shoes, so it must be the rubber they use.  I finally wore through most of the toe box, tried to shoe goo it back together with an extra rubber layer and even more shoe goo.  I think the constant skitching I did on the West Face of Leaning Tower with my left foot was what really put the hurt on it.  Even though I wore all the way through the rubber to some white underlayer, my toes never got crushed.  I bought a pair of Five-Ten guide tennies in the valley to replace them.  The guide tennies had much better traction, but hurt my arches after long periods of time.  The guide tennies also don't lace down as tight as the B5's did for an all around snug feel. 

I'd get the B5's again over the Guide Tennies because I thought it was a much better overall aid shoe.

Anyone else out there got some good reports on cheap wall shoes.  I saw the B5's on sale somewhere the other day for $50, but forget where.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: johnmac on July 14, 2008, 10:51:36 am
Anyone used the evolv maximus shoes yet.


http://www.mountaingear.com/pages/product/product.asp/item/210195/N/0/cmpn/70135/CMP/KNC-70135/afl/434
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: Mike. on July 14, 2008, 02:16:38 pm
Some opinions are currently floating around the net.


RC.com editorial review of the shoe forthcoming...
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: BriGuy on December 30, 2008, 11:30:43 am
Tecnica Mtn Approach Shoe

I got a pair of these cheep and they lasted longer than any other wall shoe I've had. Pretty stiff under foot, sticky rubber, cheep, durable. The La Sportive Cirque Pro's performed well for me, but I destroyed them very fast (15-20 pitches in zion) and I would not recommend them. I just got a pair of guide tennies to try.

I won't spend more than $50 (preferably $40 or less) on wall shoes since they wear so fast, so the Tecnica fit the bill. I've also had Exum Ridges and Colorado Trails from La Sp. and they did ok, but not wonderful.  A few sites have the Tecnica's for cheep right now.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: Garbonzo on December 30, 2008, 11:44:06 am
Evolv has the Maximus and Stryker on closeout for $69 and $45 on their website if anyone is interested.  I grabbed a pair of each for the heck of it.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: johnmac on December 30, 2008, 02:40:09 pm
Did you get the extra toe rand and stiff sole as well?
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: johnmac on December 30, 2008, 02:52:50 pm
http://www.backcountryoutlet.com/outlet/EVL0012/Evolv-Maximus-Approach-Shoe-Mens.html

The maximus are 59.58 at backcountry outlet. They have limited sizes.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: Garbonzo on December 30, 2008, 10:18:05 pm
Just grabbed the standard ones.  The other outfit doesn't have my size, so looks like I didn't waste any money.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: mungeclimber on January 08, 2009, 12:26:32 am
looks like a stellar shoe
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: mungeclimber on January 08, 2009, 12:37:53 am
crap, can't purchase without creating an account. it asks you to confirm the shipping address, when the form says only fill it out if it differs.

not tonight I guess.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: Caz on January 11, 2009, 11:17:10 am
I did a small review on them over on Mountain Project.

Here's the link.



http://www.mountainproject.com/v/big_wall_and_aid_climbing/evolv_big_wall_boot_review/106158674


I love them, I'm never climbing a wall in anything else (until something better comes along)



Zac
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: mungeclimber on January 11, 2009, 03:26:01 pm
the arch support really makes a difference, eh?

that's the real bene I see in them. 

The heating by black rand issue is a non trivial thing, but is probably outweighed by other factors like the arch and durability.

i better hold off, just saw my CC bill from trip to Utah.

btw, who's done Fisher Towers routes?



Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: offset on January 11, 2009, 11:28:18 pm
i've climbed kingfisher by the easy route... and the wall shoes i was using was lasportiva ventors... they are rad, but not as high-top rad as those maxim lookin things...

here's the left one, atop the p2 chimney.  (it looks like a cluster, but really wasn't - i was sorting out the whole solo thing)

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2046/2392222539_19c13ed6e3.jpg)
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: Mike. on January 15, 2009, 08:39:35 am
Evolv Maximus review:

http://supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=755958&msg=755958#msg755958 (http://supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=755958&msg=755958#msg755958)
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: Caz on January 16, 2009, 01:08:18 am
I guess your feet are different than mine Mike. I wore the Max on a solo of, granted it was only 3 days and not 20, but I thought they fit me great. I've tried a few other types of wall shoes but never found anything that I could stand in the aiders for too long for. I'm gonna use them on some more stuff this year, hopefully something big but I think that they fit my feet great. I do agree about the black and I'm gonna try your idea of the primer.


Thanks for the review buddy.

Zac
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: Kiron Kid on January 17, 2009, 11:18:40 pm

   I just picked up a pair of Sportiva Cirque Pro's. I hope they hold up well. They feel fine, here behind the puter with a beer in hand. I'll report back after cruisin' a wall with them. Couldn't pass them up. ? price at REI.  :-)

Kiron Kid
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: johnmac on February 13, 2009, 12:11:07 pm
Earlier today I tried on several pairs of Sportiva tradmasters and I was surprised at how comfortable they were. I played around with sizing (wore socks) and figured out that I would need to go up about a size from my street shoe size, but they might be a nice wall shoe. They are stiff and supportive.

I'm stick of carrying two pair of shoes on walls, particular in places like zion where you always have some "approach" or run out 5.8/9 on a wall. All I have to do is find them on sale somewhere so I don't have to spend 110 on my experiment.

Has anyone ever tried them?

Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: Kiron Kid on February 13, 2009, 02:24:33 pm
Johnmac

   I had to go up in sizing too, with my Sportiva Cirques. How about you Moe?

Kiron Kid
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: mungeclimber on February 15, 2009, 12:12:10 am
watch the stiching on the cirque pros, otherwise they rock. dab of goo should protect em.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: skully on April 18, 2009, 09:49:18 pm
I've always worn whatever.
I even did a wall(Tribal) in EB's. DO not do this. It hurt.
I am using 5.10 approach shoes now. They were cheap.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: KevinW on April 19, 2009, 08:45:46 am
I don't think there is one perfect wall shoe for everyone, especially when it comes *fit & comfort*. I picked up a pair of Evolv Maximus last year and grew to love them in a very short time. Not only can I stand in aiders for extended periods without any real discomfort, but I was surprised how well they free climb for a boot-style shoe. I read the supertopo review, and  was not surprised at the one photo of wear on the toe(s). I've never found any shoe that didn't require reinforcement (multiple layers of duct tape)  over the toes, to see them through and extended aid climb.
Unfortunately though, what seems to happen whenever I find something that works for me, within a short time, (if not immediately) it's discontinued.  I did manage to buy another pair while shoes in my size were still available. After I wear those out.. who knows. So if you are considering grabbing a pair of Maximus, especially if your shoe size falls in the standard 9-10 US range, you might want to do it a.s.a.p.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: offset on February 11, 2010, 06:45:55 pm
Tecnica Mtn Approach Shoe

I got a pair of these cheep and they lasted longer than any other wall shoe I've had. Pretty stiff under foot, sticky rubber, cheep, durable. The La Sportive Cirque Pro's performed well for me, but I destroyed them very fast (15-20 pitches in zion) and I would not recommend them. I just got a pair of guide tennies to try.

I won't spend more than $50 (preferably $40 or less) on wall shoes since they wear so fast, so the Tecnica fit the bill. I've also had Exum Ridges and Colorado Trails from La Sp. and they did ok, but not wonderful.  A few sites have the Tecnica's for cheep right now.

bri, or anyone else have sizing feedback for the tecnica mtn approach shoes?? 
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: johnmac on February 16, 2010, 10:14:18 pm
The fit is true to size but I recommend going down 1/2 size if your going to be aid climbing or climbing rock pitches in them.  This is from the link below:


http://www.explore64.com/explore64/TEC0021/Tecnica-MTN-Approach-Shoe-Mens.html?swatch=MNADN
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: mungeclimber on April 12, 2010, 11:39:36 pm
cross posting hanging spoons link for these...

http://www.mountaingear.com/pages/product/product.asp/imanf/La+Sportiva/idesc/Ganda+Guide+Shoe+-+Men%27s/Store/MG/item/218500/N/663

Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: miwuksurfer on April 13, 2010, 09:27:12 am
$235?! Is there a hidden jet pack in those La Sportivas?
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: YetAnotherDave on April 13, 2010, 09:44:54 am
If you want sticky rubber but aren't too concerned about precise edging, the 5.10 mountain bike shoes seem to have potential.  Good arch support, really high & beefy toecap, stiff enough but not wooden-feeling.  And since there're a lot more mountain bikers than big wall climbers, the price is reasonable and they're not likely to get discontinued on us.

They're also fscking awesome for flat-pedal riding.  I just upgraded from a pair of skate shoes to the 5.10 impacts for trials riding, and the difference is incredible. 

MEC only had the lowtop, but the high version should offer better ankle support:
http://fiveten.com/products/footwear-detail/27-impact-high
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: hoots on April 13, 2010, 09:48:19 am
I have had nothing but great experience with the several pairs of 5.10 Camp 4 and Exum Guide boots.  I put in close to 100 wall pitches and hundreds of miles of backcountry hiking on my first pair of Camp 4s before I retired them, and that was from cracking the heel cup out- the sole was still in ok shape!  Guide tennies are in pieces almos out of the box though.  
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: Slakkey on April 13, 2010, 10:25:15 am
I have been looking at the 5.10 Camp 4s I have tired a number of different things  and agree that there is truly not a perfect wall shoe out there. The 5.10 guide tennie is good for shorter routes and where you need to move from aid to free to aid again but they do wear quickly. Was looking at the new La Sportiva Boulder X approach shoe but dont really like the heel as it looks like it might wear fast and get hung up in the aiders. The homemade thing works but find they too wear fast as well even with re enforcement.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: Jack Herer on April 13, 2010, 11:20:25 am
ive tryed a lot of shoes but never been as satisfied as with these patagonia shoes. stiff sole, free climb super well, NO toe wear...

http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/Patagonia-Footwear-Huckleberry-Approach-Shoe-Mens/PTF0003M.html
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: scottydo on April 14, 2010, 01:20:06 am
I don't think there is one perfect wall shoe for everyone, especially when it comes *fit & comfort*. I picked up a pair of Evolv Maximus last year and grew to love them in a very short time. Not only can I stand in aiders for extended periods without any real discomfort, but I was surprised how well they free climb for a boot-style shoe. I read the supertopo review, and  was not surprised at the one photo of wear on the toe(s). I've never found any shoe that didn't require reinforcement (multiple layers of duct tape)  over the toes, to see them through and extended aid climb.
Unfortunately though, what seems to happen whenever I find something that works for me, within a short time, (if not immediately) it's discontinued.  I did manage to buy another pair while shoes in my size were still available. After I wear those out.. who knows. So if you are considering grabbing a pair of Maximus, especially if your shoe size falls in the standard 9-10 US range, you might want to do it a.s.a.p.

how did these boots compare to your street shoe size wise? They pretty true to size or did you go a bit smaller/bigger?
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: mhudon on April 14, 2010, 08:54:17 am
I'm giving these a try. http://www.rei.com/product/797841
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: miwuksurfer on April 14, 2010, 09:52:19 am
http://www.rei.com/product/797841

$95 is much more humane.  You could buy a couple pairs even.  For the cost of one of those high tops.  I can't stand paying more than $100 for a pair of shoes unless its for ice climbing or skiing, then they tend to last forever. Shoes that touch rock are going to wear out quick, no matter what glues, rands, etc they are using.  Granted, some styles do last longer than others, but they all are going to exlpode at some point.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: YetAnotherDave on April 14, 2010, 10:01:10 am
how did these boots compare to your street shoe size wise? They pretty true to size or did you go a bit smaller/bigger?

I'm usually 10 or 10.5 street, and the 10.5 maximus is ok but tight.  Not comfy for long approaches, but good on the wall.

Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: Slakkey on April 14, 2010, 10:14:58 am
Mark, The Boulder X shoe is an updated version of the Cirque Pro. I had been checking them out as well. The original Cirque Pros worked well for me for awhile. As I posted earlier the only thing I am somewhat skeptical about the Boulder X is the sole at the heel. Its a pretty sharp edge and has some flair to it more so than the older Cirque Pros. This could wear down faster and depending on what type of aiders one uses could potentially get hung up now and then. By no means is it a total deal breaker as I am still giving them consideration as I use aid ladders and it may not be an issue plus the price is right.

As for those fancy La Sportivas No friggin way am I paying over 2 bills for those things.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: Jack Herer on April 14, 2010, 12:30:32 pm
I've also used both the classic La Sportiva approach shoes, the Cirque Pro and the red ones? Or are those the red ones? EIther way those red ones and the tan and yellow ones. Both pairs barley made it up one wall. Some of the worst shoes I've owend. While I love the Mythos for climbing my experince with La Sportiva approach shoes is they suck and WILL wear out soon. I did the captain and a couple of small walls in those Patagonia shoes with NO signs of wear. I only had to get a new pair becuase they were given to me and they were a bit too small to walk around in.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: BEMHO on April 20, 2010, 02:33:35 pm
I have owned several pairs of wall shoes.  I have the old La sporto green high top boot, and a pair of old boreal approach shoes, and a pair of Boreal wall boots that at one time had the snow gator on them but I have since cut them off.  All of these are worn to death and hurt like hell.  I guess I just keep using them because they start hurting me and remind me that I am standing around and should be moving up.

I like the looks of the EVOLV shoe.  I were a size 12 does the size match a street shoe? 

I also did the TD with a guy who bought a pair of tennis shoes with velcro straps and he thought they were great for 30 bucks.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: hoipolloi on April 27, 2010, 11:16:35 am
Mark-

I would shoe goo / barge cement the shit out of the toe of those La Sportivas.  Without a toe bumper (the wrap up part of the sole that goes up the front of the shoe) I have found the sole gets really hammered and delams/pulls off...
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: mungeclimber on April 27, 2010, 11:29:18 am
I have owned several pairs of wall shoes.  I have the old La sporto green high top boot, and a pair of old boreal approach shoes, and a pair of Boreal wall boots that at one time had the snow gator on them but I have since cut them off.  All of these are worn to death and hurt like hell.  I guess I just keep using them because they start hurting me and remind me that I am standing around and should be moving up.

I like the looks of the EVOLV shoe.  I were a size 12 does the size match a street shoe? 

I also did the TD with a guy who bought a pair of tennis shoes with velcro straps and he thought they were great for 30 bucks.

I've found the toebox on the Evolv to be pretty low volume. Originally I was thinking they might make a good Wall-in-a-push where I convince myself that I can free climb on a BW, but that's fantasy. heh

Seriously tho, I've come to think of them more like just basic aid boots.  haven't spent stirrup time with them yet.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: offset on April 27, 2010, 02:54:26 pm
got some patagonia finn's last week and put in a couple pitches on saturday....  so far they might be THE TICKET!!    super stiff midsole, burlfest toe action...even pulled some free moves.

they were on sale at mgear for $65

i think they are even made from recycled vegan coke bottles and tires...in china.

http://www.mountaingear.com/pages/product/product.asp/imanf/Patagonia/idesc/Finn+Approach+Shoe+-+Men%27s/Store/MG/item/214149/N/0
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: Jack Herer on April 28, 2010, 12:20:22 am
ya offset that is the shoe i was talking about i should have posted a link thanks! what a great shoe.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: mhudon on April 28, 2010, 12:03:27 pm
I would shoe goo / barge cement the shit out of the toe of those La Sportivas.  Without a toe bumper (the wrap up part of the sole that goes up the front of the shoe) I have found the sole gets really hammered and delams/pulls off...

Thanks, I'll do that.

BTW, the Boulder X's have a pretty tight toe box. Min fit my foot well but toe box is tight on my toes. It's actually not bad if you intend on doing a little climbing with them but, at my regular size, I couldn't recommend them as leisure shoes.

Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: Caz on April 28, 2010, 02:14:15 pm
Has anyone been 100% happy with their choice in wall shoe?

I loved the Cirque Pro on  the wall but by the last pitch they were about to explode off my feet.

The evolv maximus were good. But when I finally got on a wall in some heat they melted my feet, plus they were a bit clunky. I liked free climbing in them , but not above 5.8.


Can anyone say they have or had the perfect wall shoe?


Zac
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: mhudon on April 28, 2010, 02:34:07 pm
In 1977 my RRs were getting resoled so I didn't have them for the Mescalito. Someone gave me a real big pair of EBs that I wore with a heavy pair of socks. They were comfy. I threw them off the top when we got done and never saw them again.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: mungeclimber on April 28, 2010, 02:58:40 pm
Caz,

Boreal Big Wall boot. Damn near perfect. But not quite. The feet still take a beating standing in aiders after day 2.  It just needs a reinforced sole like the evolvs, that supports the arch like a hiking boot.

I could so make a million bucks designing shoes. First I'd get Michael Jordan to take up big wallin. hahahahaha
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: Mike. on April 28, 2010, 03:45:32 pm
"Can anyone say they have or had the perfect wall shoe?"

What shoe works great for construction and ballet dancing? No such thing, Caz!


For max comfort standing in aiders in weather that's not hot, I'm with munge. I've had a couple pairs of those Boreals. Odd that on one pair the toes were bomb proof right out of the box; the other had thinner rands which wore through pronto. Not a bad idea to treat the toes preemptively no matter what the shoe.

I like a good approach shoe these days, but there are situations when my toes complain about the choice.


I think it's as much or more about your climbing tendencies as the shoe itself. If you're a free hero, you prolly want to capitalize on that strength. The route obviously comes into play too. Wall boots would be a questionable choice on the Nose or Salathe. Sized-up rock shoes with socks are a great m.o., and you can use em on casual free climbs.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: hoipolloi on April 29, 2010, 12:33:44 am
Mike-

These guys know what shoe works best for ballet and construction! duh!
(http://www.contractjournal.com/assets/getAsset.aspx?ItemID=68021219)

Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: Mike. on April 29, 2010, 07:46:31 am
Haha...barefoot is the key.

Something mighty disconcerting about that photo.


Are you getting all this, Caz?

: )
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: Caz on April 29, 2010, 11:14:36 am
Well I think he got you Mike!


Hahahaha

that is some funny a$$ $hit!!!

I'm in court right now trying not to fall on the floor from laughing!

Thanks for the giggle while I'm waiting for my turn infront of the judge...
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: johnmac on June 24, 2010, 02:37:34 pm
Anyone tried anything new for wall shoes lately?

I'm still trying to find that compromise between between a rock shoe and a cheap boot.  My favourite is still five ten guide tennies, but they just stand up too well to abuse.

Mark, what did you where on your recent elcap trip?
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: mhudon on June 24, 2010, 11:23:26 pm
I wore the Boulder X shoes. They were comfy but I wore right through the front of the shoe in 24 pitches.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: BEMHO on June 25, 2010, 02:32:37 pm
Mark,

I had the rubber room paste a toe cap on my La Spotiva wall shoes and that took care of the wear through problem.  I probably got 10 walls out of them before they hit the original toe rand again.

Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: mungeclimber on June 25, 2010, 05:27:51 pm
toe cap?

got any pics of the original?

sounds like a helluva good idea.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: mhudon on June 29, 2010, 08:59:42 pm
Sweet, thanks for the tip, BEMHO.  The fit well enough and stand in slings well enough that I didn't want to have to search out a different pair.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: Caz on November 12, 2010, 05:17:58 pm
Just used these on my last climb (not summit) http://www.evolvesports.com/escapist.htm (http://www.evolvesports.com/escapist.htm)

I loved them. They were super stiff and I didn't mind being in them all day. When I got into my ledge at the end of each day, I wasn't trying to rip them off. I did some EASY free climbing in them so I can't say how well they do on harder aid but I may climb some easy Jtree stuff in them in the next couple weeks.

Over all, they were good for hiking and standing in the aiders, plus there is no wear on them.


If you're looking for a good wall shoe, check these out...


Zac

Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: mungeclimber on November 14, 2012, 06:04:58 pm
http://www.evolvsports.com/shop/approach-shoes/maximus-yellow/ (http://www.evolvsports.com/shop/approach-shoes/maximus-yellow/)


I eventually did use the old Maximus. They were dang near perfect for WCSF in a push, despite what I wrote above. They just needed to be broke in and gotten used to.

Different design this time around it looks like...


larry still shows these...

http://www.mountaintools.com/cat/rclimb/rshoes/BorealBigwallClimbingShoe.htm (http://www.mountaintools.com/cat/rclimb/rshoes/BorealBigwallClimbingShoe.htm)


Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: lambone on November 18, 2012, 02:28:32 pm
I'm a huge fan of the Garmont Dragontail. Mine made it through at least 5-6 El Cap routes and several grade Vs. Stiff, sticky, and bomber.

(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51JjCG34CcL.jpg)
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: johnmac on November 27, 2012, 10:54:04 am
I have an old pair of the evolve Maximus shoes that I pretty much think is ideal, other than the color. I put an old ski boot insole in them to stiffen them up a bit. You can stand all day on them and they are pretty good out of the slings as well.

They're a little bit too big for me so I might sell them and buy the new model when it goes on sale at some stage.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: offset on November 27, 2012, 11:30:47 am
i fell in love w/ the guide tennies last wall.  (after a very generous application of sh00g00)

those things can CLIMB!

Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: johnmac on November 27, 2012, 02:52:20 pm
Yeah, the five 10's are pretty good...
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: mungeclimber on May 02, 2013, 10:50:52 pm
(http://s.stpost.com/eccstorefront/product_images/66161/f_66161_1.1.jpg)

Oh slammin! Mega Dru for the win?

Available anymore?

hrm
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: JC5123 on May 03, 2013, 08:44:14 am
http://www.mountaingear.com/webstore/Footwear/Shoes/Asolo/Distance-Approach-Shoe-Men-s/_/R-209906.htm (http://www.mountaingear.com/webstore/Footwear/Shoes/Asolo/Distance-Approach-Shoe-Men-s/_/R-209906.htm)

I'm looking at a pair of these. Anyone have any experience with them?
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: lambone on May 28, 2013, 08:48:37 pm
Just bought a second pair of these. The first lasted 5 El Cap routes plus a few runs up the Tower and Column. Free climbs well and stiff enough for long days in the aiders.

Garmont Dragontail Lite
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41xxyZTpNbL.jpg)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0046HA1EI/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?ref_=pe_309540_26725410_item (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0046HA1EI/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?ref_=pe_309540_26725410_item)
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: Raaf on May 28, 2013, 11:32:22 pm
For sale: A pair of classic Mariacher Dru wall shoes, size 44 that are in great shape. Bought in Feb 2013 on eBay. They would fit me great----but are too narrow for my feet. To get them right I'd have to so some serious breaking in. And even then I think they're just made for narrow while I am regular or wide footed.

Willing to sell for what I paid. . . about $50. They're practically unused, even though they're late 80's, early 90's shoes.
Pics available.

For reference--I recently bought Sportiva Boulder X wall shoes in 43.5. They are similar length to the Mariacher Drus I'm selling.

Very disappointed that these were not a better fit. They would be such a sweet big wall shoe.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: mhudon on May 29, 2013, 04:35:12 pm
I bought a pair of the 5.10 Camp 4 shoes to try out as wall shoes. The Five Tennies are nice and comfy but they wear out quickly.
Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: johnmac on August 13, 2013, 02:57:29 pm
Evol shoes have come up with a new design that I would like to test at some stage. I have a pair of their old design but they are a little too big for me so I need to sell them on ebay.

http://www.evolvsports.com/shop/approach-shoes/maximus-yellow/ (http://www.evolvsports.com/shop/approach-shoes/maximus-yellow/)

Title: Re: wall Shoes
Post by: offset on August 13, 2013, 04:13:30 pm
ya, i think the old ones were a bust.  i have some..used them once and no dice.. 

hope these are better...  look 'lasportive ganga esque'. 

i'm still stoked about my guide tennies (with LOTS of seam seal).