Big Walls Forum

Big Wall Index => Big Wall Trip Reports => Topic started by: Erik Sloan on March 16, 2008, 11:52:33 am

Title: Tangerine Trip 3/07 Tr
Post by: Erik Sloan on March 16, 2008, 11:52:33 am
Ok, it's a year late but I wanted to wait until the weather was looking snowy but sunny again before posting this one. Here's a little more story line:

About a year ago Jean Redle, Wayne Willoughby and myself climbed the Trip in 5 days. The weather had been sunny and was still when we fixed but then a one day storm was forecasted for our second day on the wall. No bigee. We're climbing the Trip, one of the steepest routes on the Captain. We'll be laughing at the snow, says I.

Well we lost half a day getting started and the storm came in a half a day early and caught us right where we didn't want to be--at the base of the only slab pitch on the route. Below us the wall overhung 30-40 ft in a ropelength but perched at the base of the slabby Pitch 8 we were exposed to the storm and subsequent runoff/melt.  Some friends were trying to climb Zodiac at the same time and they also went too slow the first day and bivied too low to be protected. We were pinned in our ledges for 36 hours, the last five or so because of water running down  the wall on us. Plus side was were took many beautiful pictures of the resplendent valley and Horsetail Falls.

Eventually we decided we had to try climbing or bail. Of course right about then the runoff abated substantially. In the pictures you'll see Jean leading with her jacket pulled over her helmet, and then a couple pictures later in my shot from the top of pitch 9 the wall looks dry and there isn't even much snow at the base. Wild. Definitely cold up there though--lots of pictures of the icicles on the portaledge(s).
My hips hurt just looking at the size of that load. Winter clothes, sleeping bags and two portaledges is a lot of junk. Hauling(amazingly cause it's so steep) was pretty hard all the way up and we had to do two trips to get everything off the summit.

All in all a fun winter adventure.