Big Walls Forum

Big Wall Index => Big Wall Trip Reports => Topic started by: offset on May 27, 2008, 03:19:54 pm

Title: TR: Tangerine Trip - 1st completed el cap route!!!!!
Post by: offset on May 27, 2008, 03:19:54 pm
Trip: Yosemite, El Cap - Tangerine Trip

Date: 5/19/2008

Trip Report:
After a few bails on the nose last year, i wanted to try more of a 'walling' route and see what happens.  something with a little less of a daily rush and less free climbing.  Seemed like Tangerine Trip would fit the bill.  with 17 pitches, moderate aid and only a couple sections of easy mandatory free climbing, our plan was to fix 1 pitch, then blast - going 4 pitches a day.

 
my partner flew into SLC friday night at about 10:30 pm and we started the drive from there.  Straight thru w/ a 2 hour nap near reno where we bought canned ravioli and water.  continuing on, we roll into the valley to find a full-on traffic jam and melting black top, as it was about 95 degrees.  we couldn't wait to get on the wall and out of the frickin traffic and tourons on this busy saturday afternoon.  BLAH! 

we spend the rest of the afternoon gazing up at the wall and packing the haulbags. 

(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3169/2528640424_73af6bf741.jpg)

  The Route(very faint red line)

 (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3175/2527863625_073e3979b5.jpg)

Sunday, after waiting line so we could spend that night in camp4, we took 2 trips shuttling loads to the base.  it was about an hour and a half to get to the base with the heavy loads and only about 20 minutes to get back down.  But finally after the second load, we are climbing. 

  Pitch 1
 (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2036/2528607988_083bbf9843.jpg)

belaying the fist pitch is suxor!  The wall gives a constant rain shower and the mosquitos are feasting.  That, and i have to keep an eye out for the rattlesnake that was chilling at the base when we got there. 


yadda yadda yadda, we get pitch 1 fixed, haul and then go to the buffet.

Monday we blast off.  This would be the big day.  hike + jug + 4 pitches...and would put us at the top of pitch 5...committment!  this would also turn out to be the only night we need headlamps to set up the ledge. 

All of P4 straight up to roof, then back down   (photo credit: tom 'elcappics' evans )
 (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2391/2528730058_ca240cb777.jpg)

 Cleaning pitch 4 follower down aids to clean this pitch     (photo credit: tom evans)
 (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2033/2528730088_0668e85ac3.jpg)

 

 Parner leading P5
 (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3083/2528608100_303ba11314.jpg)


ok, i'm tired of typing....  long story short - the route was steep, it got cold, we keep the 4P/day pace, topped out on thursday evening, it was snowing friday morning.  here are some pics:

 Making the bed
 (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2169/2528623884_873991d8a0.jpg)

 Partner cleaning P8  seemed like every pitch was a traverse
 (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3237/2528623852_a115bb7ffa.jpg)

 all of P8 very, for me, involved pitch.  started with hook traverse off ledge, to bolt/rivet ladder, to 5.7 tension, to thin A2 corner, to expando, to more hook traverse, to anchor ... a little of everything    (photo credit: tom 'ansel' evans )
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3207/2528730142_941c12f44a.jpg)

 lots of hooking all really bomber and fun
 (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2304/2528623796_b87e129af2.jpg)

biner-to-bolt ratio.... off the charts!
 (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3190/2528661362_3cb77f90f2.jpg)

 these snozzberries taste like snozzberries
 (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2101/2528661350_d255b0b6cd.jpg) 

 Somewhere on the rout  
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2271/2528649620_4735cc268a.jpg)

 Generic Aid photo rivet ladder
 (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2394/2528661380_95f614f66b.jpg)

 P14 cuz it matters
 (http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3080/2528623900_28b5fb2eae.jpg)

 w00t!
 (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2225/2528649602_35ffa87bdc.jpg)

We got back down to the base friday mid-day to a rainy valley.  both tioga and sonora pass had been closed due to snow, so we had to take the long way home.   good thing, since we passed this:

 (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2153/2527863607_9a0a227e35.jpg)


was a great trip, and thanks to a good partner - was an uneventful and prowd send!  Thanks also to Tom Evans for keeping tabs on everybody on the wall and taking some killer pics from a different vantage. 

Gear Notes:
dbl offset aliens
mastercams to red
tcu's to red
aliens to grey
offset nuts
nuts
trple to #3
dbl #4
one #5
double hooks
double camhooks
dozen rivet hangers
2 PBR's
not enough warm clothes
LaSportiva Ventors - greatest wallshoe ever!
fruit rollups
sardines
ravioli
few beaks
few blades
few sawed-offs
p00p t00b
rubber chicken
dbl ipod nano's
water

Approach Notes:
suxor!
Title: Re: TR: Tangerine Trip - 1st completed el cap route!!!!!
Post by: mungeclimber on May 27, 2008, 06:15:57 pm
Superb! 

You did it!!!

rawk on!
Title: Re: TR: Tangerine Trip - 1st completed el cap route!!!!!
Post by: Rags on May 27, 2008, 07:14:12 pm
Congrats! Glad you got down before the crap hit. I was holed up on 108 (with Munge) praying for a break, instead of being in the valley.

Fuck, now I gotta get me one.
Title: Re: TR: Tangerine Trip - 1st completed el cap route!!!!!
Post by: Kiron Kid on February 03, 2009, 06:47:50 pm

   Rubber Chicken? I've always thought that I was the only climber that hauled rubber chickens up routes...

Kiron Kid
Title: Re: TR: Tangerine Trip - 1st completed el cap route!!!!!
Post by: Mr. on February 03, 2009, 08:02:25 pm
Strong work!

Enjoyed the photos and report. Soon it will be spring, route #2 awaits you... go for it!
Title: Re: TR: Tangerine Trip - 1st completed el cap route!!!!!
Post by: offset on February 04, 2009, 10:59:08 am
thanks..

actually rt #2 came in the fall.  (i'll cut/paste the TR in here shortly)

Title: Re: TR: Tangerine Trip - 1st completed el cap route!!!!!
Post by: skully on April 04, 2009, 10:08:22 am
Loved the photos....brought back the memories of that route.
Good times!