Big Walls Forum

Big Wall Index => Big Wall Forum => Topic started by: hoipolloi on September 14, 2008, 12:56:09 pm

Title: Soloing with a Reverso/ATC-Guide??
Post by: hoipolloi on September 14, 2008, 12:56:09 pm
I'm just wondering if anyone has ever used a Reverso / ATC guide for doing any soloing. 

You rig it up the same way you would a Gri-gri (as done when set-up to solo).  So it is supported in a sort of sideways position.  Brakes in the same way it does when you set it up to belay a person in 'guide mode.'  Im tryin to think how it would function in a head first fall,  I think it wouldn't function well (or at all). 

Anyways, just saw some info about this awhile ago and was wondering some other opinions.
Title: Re: Soloing with a Reverso/ATC-Guide??
Post by: mungeclimber on September 15, 2008, 12:26:26 am
huh? 

any links for this?
 
I've never heard of this, and can't think of way that it would lock off for soloing.
Title: Re: Soloing with a Reverso/ATC-Guide??
Post by: lunchbox on September 18, 2008, 01:22:37 am
I'm skeptical!?!?

Both the XP Guide, Reverso and another Euro guide plate who's name escapes me at the moment, (maybe Gi Gi, yes this concept has been around for a while) are able to lock auto lock and go hands free because the remain constantly above the climber.  It's the climber's side of the rope that pins the break side against the wall of said device.  While soloing you may or may not be constantly above your last piece and certainly will not be there if you take a fall. 

I would argue that no mater how you rig it once you fall and are below your last piece your device will orient itself such that the break side of the rope will not be pinned and locked off during the fall. 

I should add that I'm on my way to the fridge and not the gear bivi and am most certainly trying to puzzle this out with visual aids.
Title: Re: Soloing with a Reverso/ATC-Guide??
Post by: offset on September 18, 2008, 01:50:30 am
geomotry dictates that it will always lock.    lawyers dictate that they will not endorse it.