Big Walls Forum

Big Wall Index => Big Wall Forum => Topic started by: hoipolloi on April 27, 2009, 08:22:05 pm

Title: Half Dome - Right Side
Post by: hoipolloi on April 27, 2009, 08:22:05 pm
So, another thread got me thinking about this forgotten piece of stone.

Anyone been up on the right side of the Domer?  Tis-a-sak? Zenith?  Both look great.  ST makes it sound like Zenith needs some Anchor replacement work, sounds scary as is.  Anyone venture over there anytime recently?

Really like the look of that stuff. Zenith sounds amazing, ST claims its not even beat out or pin scarred. =O






Fishing...  cast out.... reel in?
hello out there?!
Title: Re: Half Dome - Right Side
Post by: skully on April 27, 2009, 09:50:59 pm
Sent you a msg.....hope its not too cryptic.
Tis-Sa-ack.....pretty cool, needs maint.
Zenith.......very cool, kinda fragile, could use some maint, too.
Title: Re: Half Dome - Right Side
Post by: skully on July 09, 2010, 07:27:05 pm
Here ya go, Boys! Time to eat yer livers & scurry up to the Half Stone.
Prime right about now.
I was hangin' about under & in the Bushido Gully one August. Spent a few days, reccointering(sp)  around.
Damn, it was cold! Brrrrrrrr.
Beat the Heat? I think I've got Just the Place for YOU! Oh, yeah.
Title: Re: Half Dome - Right Side
Post by: Mr. on July 12, 2010, 10:55:09 am
Calling party of three: Big Chill. Big Chill, your line is ready.
Title: Re: Half Dome - Right Side
Post by: hoipolloi on July 12, 2010, 12:47:48 pm
I know a guy who did the big chill a bunch of years ago.  Sounds like there was some intense expando up there!

Sounds pretty cool!
Title: Re: Half Dome - Right Side
Post by: Mr. on July 12, 2010, 06:04:21 pm
still maybe the most "chill" route up the right side. c2 at most with small cams and slider nuts. ha haaaa.
Title: Re: Half Dome - Right Side
Post by: skully on July 12, 2010, 06:51:16 pm
C2? of course.......The Chill would be a FINE plum to pluck, eh?
Or The Promised Land, maybe?
Title: Re: Half Dome - Right Side
Post by: Mr. on July 12, 2010, 08:47:09 pm
promised land looks cool, but big chill is still the "line" in my opinion. more natural, interesting changes in topography, but freekishly plumb the whole way, almost. independent finish, etc.

so heres what i'm thinking: bridwell chose bushido first, big features, then came zenith, a year later, features up to and in the white section but ran out in the streaked section up high. if arctic sea was an indication of what was to come to half dome, the vibe for the chill team must have been to put it all out there and climb in their version of best style possible. is it the sythesis of bridwell's previous halfdome experiences? only he can say, i suppose.

i heard they hauled a lot of equipment up there, though. lol!


Title: Re: Half Dome - Right Side
Post by: *Mucci* on July 13, 2010, 01:38:06 pm
I talked with Bosque about the chill alot over the past few months.  He said it was in your face the whole way.  Each team member had rest days after leading the day before.  Much needed, some leads took a LONG time. 

Bridwell pushed all of the team members to avoid drilling, and the result is some wicked heading.  On the A5 pitch steve lead, bridwell tells steve to head up a corner (all heads) to some hooking, then penji off the hooks to the left to a corner.  100 feet of small heading when a short rivet ladder to the left could have gained the same corner right off of the belay!

C2?  Hard to imagine but i do know just about everyone took a fall on that climb.  Bridwell's 1st fall since 69'.

Mr. - have you done the chill?

Oh and Beaks made thier first appearance on that climb. 
Title: Re: Half Dome - Right Side
Post by: Mr. on July 13, 2010, 06:19:43 pm
Quote
Bridwell pushed all of the team members to avoid drilling, and the result is some wicked heading. 100 feet of small heading when a short rivet ladder to the left could have gained the same corner right off of the belay!

ahh yes, the streaked section up higher. bridwell was able to cool that summit fever. sums up the mentality throughout the whole climb, dont it though? putting up something proud is prioritized above doing something convenient on the FA. the descision eshew bolting reveals the knowledge and practicality of the team. sometimes a small feature is there and with a minimal enhancement it becomes useable. and yes, sometimes doing a little chiseling for heads or enhancing for hooks gets over interpreted as the "proud" thing to do when actually it was the faster and more logical way to proceed. it can go both ways.

never climbed it but the route but the history and its style has always intrigued me. especially if you look at it in relation to the other half dome routes. bridwell's last half dome route was put up in '89, shadows. there he moved even farther left onto the bigger secion of the wall, but it had smaller discontinuous features. many routes were being put up then on the right side that crossed/joined other existing routes. perhaps in shadows, he was looking for the last remaining totally independent line and staying away from more recent developments around zenith and up right towards bushido. perhaps it required more bolting than he would have liked. it was his last route on half dome. seems like big chill was the line in its time, and the team to put it up. props to steve, btw. which pitches did he get?

the chill was put up almost 10 years after the sea/zenith and 6-7 years after ZM so we all know how c2 those are.ha haaa (emphasis added)... {cough}... etc.

look on the bright side: it might be c2 for a while before it falls off!

badass though, super inspiring and motivating for sure!

whosgonnadoit?

edit: check this out, good stuff.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1040465&tn=0
Title: Re: Half Dome - Right Side
Post by: *Mucci* on July 13, 2010, 09:24:22 pm
Very well said!

That is exactly the impression I got from steve as to the overall effort of the climb.

One Quote from a friend in the supertopo thread says it all.

"In Steve's words Bridwell said, "Steve this is your chance for mediocrity or greatness."

Sean, Steve and Bridwell all worked construction together during that period, well maybe not sean?  Either way, Bridwell knew steve and sean had it in them, and Peter had proven himself with the bird on ZM.  The pitch I mentioned above was steve's first A5 pitch, which he said he will never forget. 

They got it right, a route that will never see traffic did not need convienence rivets, rather some trenching and enhancements kept the route up to par with the bird's vision of a sustained route right up the pipe.

Whoooop!  the half dizzle is alive!!!
Title: Re: Half Dome - Right Side
Post by: Mr. on July 14, 2010, 08:54:54 am
Quote
Bridwell said, "Steve this is your chance for mediocrity or greatness."

'Nuff said there! So true ...and I bet Steve is stoked that he did it up the proud way instead of the ladder. Thats what good climbing partners/teams are all about.

I bet a strong party would have fun on any of those routes over there because ya would know ahead of time that it is going to be exposed, loose, and dangerous... because thats why yer going up there...!
Title: Re: Half Dome - Right Side
Post by: skully on July 14, 2010, 03:41:01 pm
Right on......You got that one right for sure, Mr.
I read someplace where they were sayin' that the right side of the Half Stone is the most continuously steep Big Wall in America. She's DEFINITELY steep!
The great White Wall, brothers. 
Yowza!