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Big Wall Index => Big Wall Trip Reports => Topic started by: hammock-soloer on June 14, 2009, 12:53:27 pm

Title: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: hammock-soloer on June 14, 2009, 12:53:27 pm
My first wall has been bagged and burned. didder and I started at 7;00 pm and climbed untill 11;00pm the next night. 

 Wall-this is my first big wall summit.
 Do I get extra credit for climbing wet denim daydream-as a first wall?
does the 15' roof top out mean I am ahead of the other rookies?
Didder post some of the photos here.
Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: skully on June 14, 2009, 12:57:46 pm
Good job, Dude! I don't know about points, persay, I think that's a self count system, but I'd say you're on your way!
Didder! Pics please! We LOVE Wall pics!
Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: Mike. on June 14, 2009, 06:46:46 pm

Cool beans, nice going on the route.

(Edited for niceness)

Get out there and have some more fun! Right on = }
Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: Didder on June 15, 2009, 09:40:11 pm
Will try and post some pics tomorrow even though the camera barely made it out of the bag .

HS stepped up big and did a nice job on this super steep route.

Some high points:
-high and dry Sat afternoon as the Valley was taking a serious deluge.
-enveloped in fog and clouds when the rain ended
-watching the epic free climbing going on below Ahwahnee Ledge from above.

Some low points:
-looking for my beef jerky and finding out someone ate it all.
-getting to the block and finding out someone? shat all over the only ledge for 600 ft.

Love the new rap anchor Mike....

Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: Garbonzo on June 16, 2009, 09:44:36 am
No hammock?  Not solo?  WTF?

Nice send just the same!
Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: Mike. on June 16, 2009, 12:20:42 pm
Sounds like a great trip. I'd be stoked to see some pix.

(Edited for niceness)

Sounds like you used the hanging rap station--glad it meets with approval. On the Tower, I reco a small adj wrench to snug down any lead and rap bolts; they seem to need it a couple of times when newly placed. I hope the heritage bolts there are not a downer. After a little work I decided they were actually not super bad and help to spread out that hanging station. Really, there needn't be more than one person at that anchor. If climbing/rapping with one rope, everyone except the last guy single-line raps (50m) to the ground from the anchor above the hanging station.

You are on a roll, diddman. Keep inspiring us!

Haha, Garbonzo...
Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: *Mucci* on June 16, 2009, 03:41:12 pm
HS- as per that last post...... Your missing the point brother, it's all about having fun.  If you can't hang around and enjoy the most beautifull place on earth while belaying.....then start Soloing! 

How long did it take you to lead your pitches?  Was your partner watching the clock?  Remember.....if your keeping time, your wasting it.

Props to you and your partner for gettin a steep one done!
Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: mungeclimber on June 16, 2009, 09:57:51 pm
HS, nice on ya for getting up that thing. Folks have been seriously fucking hurt on that route just from belaying. And that is no fucking joke. Props.  Go check out the Captain this week. Weather is looking good.
Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: Habanero on June 17, 2009, 09:10:08 am
First post.

Compelled to post because I appreciate the tone/climate of this forum. Having said that...

HS is totally out of line. I suggest you choose your words carefully. Perhaps an edit is in order?

Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: skully on June 17, 2009, 09:55:23 am
HS is frequently out of line.
No worries, Habanero. Welcome to our board.
Hope ya glean somethin' out of it.
Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: Habanero on June 17, 2009, 10:11:16 am
Thanks Skully.

Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: Mike. on June 17, 2009, 11:26:05 am
Pull up a stump and pop one, Habanero. Welcome, amigo.

Thanks for the positive sentiment.
Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: Burt on June 17, 2009, 05:14:14 pm
Is this guy for real? or am I too new to the "computer climber" to see that? Boy sounds like this HS guy is a little to big for his britches.... and a stop watch? dude get up a couple before you set the world on fire...
Kurt "Burt"
Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: Mike. on June 17, 2009, 05:42:37 pm
(Edited for niceness)

Hey KurtBurt, nice to have another voice of experience here. I regret you had to step in this one straight away. Welcome regardless, and rock on.
Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: Burt on June 17, 2009, 11:16:59 pm
K now I am reading this correctly, first wall, shits on a ledge, takes way too long on a grade 5 to be bragging, then rips his wall mate a new one via the internet, and is posting an illegal act as a porter? Thank you Mike for showing dumbing it down for guys like me. Way funny and even crazier to think this guy even remotely has a leg to stand on. I have been out of the game for sometime now due to an injury, but guys like this make me happy to come back to the sport I love. So thank you hammock soloer for being such a tool that it made me have to post. See you in the Valley I hope or better yet come to Zion I would love to watch the shit run down your leg and not make it to the ledge (cause you'll still be on the ground) so climb on my friend and like your name implies, that will be your journey soon grasshopper, with a resume like yours.

Thanks for some props Mike. Need to get back out towards the Valley soon, heading to the Needles in a few weeks gotta get my ass in shape again, and thanks for the TR on MC on WC, Flyn' Brian and myself talked a lot about that route, he said it was pretty wild!
Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: Mike. on June 18, 2009, 09:32:14 am
Right on, Burt. Glad to hear you're getting back in the game. I didn't know you were on injured reserve. How'd you get hurt, if I may? Injuries effing blow.
Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: Habanero on June 18, 2009, 02:16:48 pm
I know many of you are struggling to determine the cost of inviting hammok-soloer along with you on your next wall.

"Next time you want a belay slave to second you for extremely slow, miserably cold mountainereing it will cost you $1.00 per ten feet thats $10.00 per hundred feet and $100.00 per thousand feet. I want cash -up front- before the climb. With the stipulation that if the pitch is climbed slower than three feet per minuet I want an extra dollar for every extra minuet behind schedule. so that gives the climber an avarage of 65min. per pitch. with 5 min. allowance. thats 70 min. per 200 feet so if I am hired and pitch one takes 140 minuites I want $90.00 for that pitch."

I decoded the math in hammock-soloer's post, made a few assumptions, and created an excel file to help you estimate how much that 160 minute, 155 foot of A3+ will ultimately cost. Hammock-soloer has proven to be an astute business man and as such he should know that deductions may apply. While I did not account for deductions in HS Fee Calculator version 1, I can assure you that version 2 will include deductions for the following:
1) Shitting anywhere - $100
2) Eating Jerkey - $3 on the ground, $50 on the wall, $100 if you finish the bag
3) Complaining - $25 per incident
4) Compromising access to beer or weed - $50
5) Compromising access to beer and weed - $100

What did I forget?


Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: skully on June 18, 2009, 02:35:55 pm
My, we are organized, huh?......Lookin' kinda pricey, HS is.
I bet this can, perhaps will cause our aspiring hero to consider what is spoken(or typed) before actually throwin' it out there.
I'd probably have been a bit more harsh, not in a monetary sense, as use of a hammer for things it wasn't quite designed for CAN be satisfying.....Grins.
Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: Burt on June 19, 2009, 09:01:34 am
Hey Mike, I was top roping with the Gri Gri on a sport crag here in red rocks on a new (waxy) 9.8 rope. I was 50 ft up when I fell off and I grabbed the rope above the Gri Gri and took some weight off of it so it unlocked. I let go like I have always done but the Gri never caught due to the kinda thin rope and the new waxy feel. I have used ropes thinner than that before with no problems, just my lucky day I guess. I hit the ground with little to no friction landing feet first and breaking my L1, L2, L3 vert in my back, my tailbone, pelvic bone in 3 places, both feet, and one ankle. My back was bad, L2 exploded on impact and now I have a L1-L3 fusion with 2 rods and lots of screws, L2 is no more so there is some artificial stuff in there. I was told it would take 6 months to learn how to walk, and never climb again. Well I walked my 29th day, was back on the rock in 3 1/2 months and climbing a just a few letter grades behind from when I fell by 4 1/2 months. I even put up a new route in Zion hauling, falling, all that good stuff. Then the real tragedy happened, on my way to go cragging A lady hit me head on I wasn't wearing a seat belt. luckily my head hitting the windshield took the force, but I had to start the "most amazing recovery I have ever seen" (quote from my spine surgeon) all over, I just couldn't. I lost the wind to my sails and just gave up. I gained like 100 lbs started technical scuba diving hitting big depths my first year, 308ft on trimix and many 200+ on air and one 297ft on air (really stupid fun) but I just was dead inside. My local friends finally had enough Dave Sorric up here in vegas took me ice climbing, and Jay Foley out of New Mexico who I used to guide for took me cragging (yea its hard to climb with a haulbag around your belly!) and of coarse my best bro Flyn' Brian just told me to quit feeling sorry for myself and reminded me of the adventures we used to have. So I got off my ass and am starting the long process of getting back into shape. I hate my bike, but feels better everyday, just been climbing a lot of the moderates here in red rock just for some mileage, hoping to get to Zion this fall have a really sick FA that needs to get done! So thats my story, it feels good to be back. I owe a lot of my recovery to Brian and Dave. I was in the trauma center ICU here in Vegas for 3 weeks and Brain was there a lot! Dave and his wife Diana showed up quite a bit and even brought me a bag full of porn! The best gift a guy stuck on his back could get. I couldn't have done it without them, I owe them a lot, I hope the karma wheel is good to my friends.
Kurt "Burt" Arend
Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: Mike. on June 19, 2009, 10:40:25 am
Kurt, I had no idea you went through such harrowing events and serious injuries. Thanks for explaining what happened. I hope ongoing disabilities aren't super bad--sounds like you are dealing with it super positively. Bravo, man. Those of us who have been banged up in some way (too many of us) can get a lot of inspiration from your story. Here's to your ongoing psyche and getting back to the fun. Rock on! And cheers...

BTW, all: I removed my caustic commentary from this thread. I still feel strongly about the issues at hand (people needing to manage waste and be generally accountable), but piling on this dood doesn't sit right with the bigger part of me. FWIW.
Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: Baltoro on June 20, 2009, 02:24:05 pm
I didn't get a chance to see Mike's comments before he pulled them so I'm sorry if this has been brought up before but HS and his partner having some squabbles after a wall doesn't seem too unexpected.

Shitting on the ledge isn't cool and neither is calling out people on the internet for being slow or whatever. Didder

Calling people out for things they don't have control over (like speed or lack of ability) isn't cool.

Calling people out for things they do have control over like placing bolts where they shouldn't and whatnot should be expected. If someone is trying to get a pitch done and it takes them forever believe me they are going as fast as they can at that time. One of my partners is super slow at everything. He'll be the first to tell you it takes him ten minutes to brush his teeth, let alone clean an anchor and jug a pitch. He's still one of my best friends so it's worth it to me to climb with him.

Don't get mad at people for things they don't have control over and then point it out on the internet. PM each other to work it out. Airing out dirt laundry smells as bad as shit on the only ledge.

So in that theme of calling people out for things they do have control over who the Hell are you HS to throw out the word nigger?!

This isn't Mississippi. This isn't 1952. This isn't 7th grade. Too much shit gets tossed out there in the internet because there is anonymity. The mods could kick you off but you'd just come back with a new avatar and be the same old asshole. We have to police ourselves and we do that by not tolerating shit like you throwing around language like we're all your homies or this is a KKK rally. Don't fuck up this site and make it like so many others.

I don't care if you've got black friends and their cool with it. I don't care if you're black, brown, white or purple. It's that much more ignorant if you are black.

So bail and send. Put all your TR's out there and spread the psyche. Ask and answer questions. Connect and commiserate. Do all the things you want here, just don't bag on people for things they can't control and check the redneck ignorance at the door.

Welcome to some new folks this thread brought out. Glad to have you aboard this fine vessel and I swear it's not always like this.
Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: skully on June 20, 2009, 02:33:20 pm
Well put. Thanks, Baltoro.
Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: Didder on June 21, 2009, 03:24:03 pm
WOW havn't checked the forum for a week or so.....loving all the banter.... We should all be climbing more and posting less. Habanero....Nice work on the fee calculator. Man I can't wait to get back on the Captain!!!
Title: Re: *wet denam daydream*
Post by: lambone on June 21, 2009, 08:54:07 pm
Do I get extra credit for climbing wet denim daydream-as a first wall?
does the 15' roof top out mean I am ahead of the other rookies?

I suppose that depends if you if the hard shit or not.

First wall in a push is more impressive, WDD isn't really that hard, just has that one fuckin scary block and a couple beaks/heads above awhanee.