Big Walls Forum

Big Wall Index => Big Wall Forum => Topic started by: hoipolloi on August 30, 2009, 03:19:11 pm

Title: A question for those who have played with USHBA's
Post by: hoipolloi on August 30, 2009, 03:19:11 pm
So I recently got a chance to check out an Ushba adjustable daisy set up as discussed here:

So I don't have much desire to A) buy 2 Ushba's or B) Have one on both my aiders.

I have mentioned how I have a little custom set up where I put a Fifi on an adjustable daisy but have my aiders themselves on regular Daisy chains.  However, my question for those of you who have played with the Ushba's is how you think they would work in this situation.

What I was thinking is this.

Ushba with a Fifi hook attatched to it (girthed to the clip in hole), then having it on a piece of 8mm cord tied into harness.  Then you have an adjustable fifi hook (which I find to be very useful in many different situations, steep rock, transfering onto marginal pieces, moving laterally, especially on hooks, getting comfy at the belays, etc). 

The key aspect of my system, try to understand this as I describe the best I can, is that when I have transfered onto a piece, i can fifi into it then climb up while pulling in the adjustable (same as what you would do with only the adjustable going to your aider) then as I transfer into the top steps I can easily let out a little tension of the adjustable fifi to make top stepping really easy.  When I do this the fifi pulls to the top of the carabiner and is then pulling downwards off my harness and upwards on the carabiner i am fifi'd too (which is usually the one on my aider)..

This is why I like it.  Problem is, the adjustable is strenuous to pull in and let out, the Ushba is super easy, slightly more dynamic if you were to fall on  it.  I just wonder how it would do with transition from essentially hanging on it, to pulling on it, if there would be slippage or if it could get bumped and released, sending you flying...

damnit.. this makes no sense, do your best to understand.  Or sell me your old Ushba so I can test it out (I want a titanium one)!
Title: Re: A question for those who have played with USHBA's
Post by: Caz on September 02, 2009, 10:19:37 pm
You have one hella rig there buddy. I was going to try out the system in a couple of weeks but I can't spend the extra cash right now. It sounds like this system might complicate your rig even further. If I were you I'd stay away from it.