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Big Wall Index => Big Wall Forum => Topic started by: cclarke on April 07, 2010, 08:17:21 pm

Title: Got Dates!
Post by: cclarke on April 07, 2010, 08:17:21 pm
April 29 - May 11.

My partner wants to free climb mainly and he's good at it so I think maybe Gold Wall.

Then he'll drop me at the end of the road.  Hmm . . .
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: skully on April 07, 2010, 08:45:44 pm
Dude, plenty of gold at the end of THAT road....Cha-ching!
You score!
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Mike. on April 07, 2010, 09:14:00 pm
Sweet, Chris! Go get it, man. Bust out a quick solo when you're done if you can. So many great small walls...but you have to do do WFLT if you haven't.
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: cclarke on April 08, 2010, 08:49:44 am
Thanks guys.  I am hoping to get on something on the east face of the Column and save WFLT for another time but WFLT may be faster than anything I'd try on the Column so we'll see.
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Mike. on April 08, 2010, 10:40:44 am
Yep nothing 5 ropes long on the column
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: mhudon on April 08, 2010, 11:56:16 am
I'll be there for a long weekend from the 22nd to the 26th. Hopefully we'll get in some off-width practice to get ready for Freerider.
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: offset on April 08, 2010, 12:01:59 pm
may 17 thru ~ july 9

gitsum!!
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: mhudon on April 08, 2010, 03:38:04 pm
May 17 through July 9th!

Bastard!

(although it's hard for me to complain since I'll be there May 29th to June 19th and then two weeks in October.)

;-)
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: xtrmecat on April 08, 2010, 03:49:24 pm
Maybe as early as May 3rd, but by the 7th to june 4th. Should be able to wear something out in that time.

  Bob
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Slakkey on April 08, 2010, 05:00:15 pm
More than likely for a few days after May 15 then again around the end of May through maybe June 9th  or so.
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: hoots on April 09, 2010, 07:28:58 pm
April 14- mid October.  Who wants to climb? 
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Mike. on April 09, 2010, 08:57:37 pm
You guys are killing me. Pissing me off in fact.

Something's likely to happen this year, who knows what. It better. I don't want to post in WasBeen.
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: scottydo on April 10, 2010, 09:58:41 am
I'll be there May 1st-14th. Only plans so far is giving Steck-Salathe a go with a buddy and possibly a solo of Leaning Tower. If anybody needs a partner that second week of may give me a holler.
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: mhudon on April 10, 2010, 10:56:05 am
Hoots is pissing me off big time ;-)
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Slakkey on April 10, 2010, 11:55:33 am
Hoots must be expecting a big Tax Refund this year Notice the timely start date. More than likely has a little coin already in the bank, Files on the 14th, Starts his climbing season, Refund comes in, figures he is good until Oct. I like It :)
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: mhudon on April 10, 2010, 12:12:42 pm
I'd do it in a heartbeat if I could.
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: hoots on April 10, 2010, 01:43:00 pm
haha, I still gotta work around there, off and on from june til mid september... and who wants to be in the valley during the middle of summer anyway.  backcountry pig wrestlin is in the plans...
and that just means that all you guys can count on a stoked partner being around if you're in need!
as a fledgling member of this cool little sub-community, it would be sweet to organize some sort of BW.com beer night mid may when a lot of us are going to be around...  any takers?
 
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: mhudon on April 10, 2010, 03:27:26 pm
When I'm in the Valley this June, I'm either going to be on one wall or getting ready for another. After my solo I'll probably hang around for a day or two but then I have to blast home. It'll be hard to plan anything around my schedule. I'll certainly try to meet up though, drinking beer is a favorite pastime of mine!
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: skully on April 10, 2010, 08:43:12 pm
Beer & dates are good together, too.

I'm swingin' the Bridwellfest trip, but, I have, at present, no "public" plan on the Big Stone.
Yet.



(shhhhhh, it's a secret.)
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: smack on April 15, 2010, 11:29:13 pm
Im thinking may 25 - june 7th. i want to hop on the muir wall. partner TBD.
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: smack on April 28, 2010, 07:46:24 pm
I found a partner for the muir wal. Woo! may 30th woooooo yah! We're gunna die!

Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: xtrmecat on April 28, 2010, 08:50:24 pm
Nice Smack, if I am still around, and on the ground, I may drop by to cheer ya on, or hump loads, or....

  I put ya in the BBerry. Good luck, not that it has anything to do with it.

  Bob
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: offset on April 30, 2010, 10:56:29 am
one... more... week...of ...work.................OMG!!!!!!

packed!!

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/4565482693_ab8edfeaa1.jpg)
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Slakkey on May 07, 2010, 08:10:13 pm
May 17th - May 22 stoked
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Mike. on May 08, 2010, 09:33:44 am
Now you guys are twisting the knife. Damn you fuckers. Stoked for ya!
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: mhudon on May 09, 2010, 10:26:10 am
I'm 97% packed for my Grape Race/Tribal Rite solo (another Digging a Hole Motivational program comment there also). I have all the water, dehydrated food and snacks packed away. I still need fresh food for sandwiches, beer and ice.

I'm having Sailworks modify a couple of the smaller Metolius Haul Packs for me. I'm having them put gear loops inside the packs. I'll use one as a general junk bag to drag under the haul bags and the other as my tag rack bag. With the gear loops, it'll be all organized for when I haul it up, mid-pitch, and have to rummage through it to find a particular pieces of gear.

(http://w3.gorge.net/mhudon/web_photos/solo-gear.jpg)
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: YetAnotherDave on May 10, 2010, 11:03:02 am
I'm having Sailworks modify a couple of the smaller Metolius Haul Packs for me. I'm having them put gear loops inside the packs.

I did that with mine too - haulpacks and smaller haulbags.

I'd suggest having them add one small loop to girth hitch a daisy chain to.  Or they could sew simple daisy chains right into the haulbag.

Sure would be nice if metolius added those in the factory...
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: cclarke on May 16, 2010, 08:29:20 am
Home now.  Good trip but a little different that I had imagined.

Day 1:  Arch Rock.  Supplication (10c), Anticipation (11b), Midterm (10b, heh), Leanie Meanie (11b).  Ouch.

Day 2:  Gold Wall (V, 5.11, A0).  Double Ouch.

Day 3:  Five Open Books, 5 pitches rest day.  Looked at Afroman.  Got scared.

Day 4:  Started the Prow solo.

Day 5:  Continued on Prow.  Let a party pass and was significantly delayed.  Got to hang out with a genuine bigwall legend for a few hours while his partner led a pitch.

Day 6:  Bailed from top of 5 due to "lack of water" but really because I was worn out.

Day 7:  Home.

Epilogue:  Won the 40+ category at a 9 hr mtb relay race yesterday; 3rd place overall in the race.  Way easier than bigwalling.  It is good to be home.

Thanks for all the moral support and positive psyche everyone.

I have a very long trip report with many photos that I will post somewhere eventually.

Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Mike. on May 17, 2010, 11:20:10 am
Right on, Chris. Nice agenda and a productive trip overall.

I always put the longest route first on the docket. For me/us small outings first usually quell the fire for the big one. You can't complain about the prizes you came home with, though. Nice...

Cheers.
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: mungeclimber on May 17, 2010, 12:20:57 pm
awesome!

I feel so unproductive right now.

I got plans scheduled out, Freak Show being one of them, but man, seems like so much is happening in the Valley and lots of folks are there.

all I managed to do was put a couple of starter bolts on some choss piles and hiked around for a couple hours Sat and Sun.

gotta get motivated and get some shiz done and get strong! 

know what I mean?

Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: hoipolloi on May 17, 2010, 09:47:25 pm
The valley sucks this time of year, in my opinion.  The only way I find myself enjoying it is to drive in Thursday night, hike to bivy, sleep, start a route Friday morning, Top out and drive home Sunday night.

Thats a weekend.  Time to get those started again, its been weird weather though, eh?
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: cclarke on May 18, 2010, 01:35:39 pm
Hey Mike-

I would have preffered to put all my energy into one solo wall from the beginning but my partner helped me out hugely with logistics and he was totally gung-ho on the free climbing.  I felt I owed it to him to do a few days before I launched solo.  It would have helped me if we chose some less difficult climbing as I was nearly just off the couch but I'm ok with how it worked out.  Gold Wall is a very good route.

I guess I'll have to try again next year . . .
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Mike. on May 18, 2010, 07:53:37 pm
Got ya, Chris. I don't think you can complain...you bagged a bunch of great mileage. So much for the couch!


Hoi, I haven't been feeling these springs lately either. Autumn rules IMO--better weather and far fewer people. That whole El Cap scene with Tom and all just doesn't add to the climbing for me. I like most all the people individually a lot but the whole scene makes me want to climb elsewhere. Grouchy old man out...
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: lambone on May 19, 2010, 05:51:04 am
I'm looking to cruise down for about 7 days in the first week of June. With my week leg and a noob valley partner I think the goal will be a bunch of moderate free routes. Maybe a push up the column if we are feeling up for it...
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: YetAnotherDave on May 19, 2010, 09:45:39 am
If any of you guys really want a crowd-free wall experience, come do a grade V or two in squamish this summer.  The 'trade routes' here are the ones that see more than one ascent most years  :)

I'm not likely to make the valley this year, but could certainly duck out of diaper duty to do a push any sunny weekend. 

Lots of fun A2/3ish stuff, mostly a dozen or so pitches.
Downloadable guidebook: http://mattmaddaloni.com/Guide%20Books,%20Squamish%20BW.htm
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: mhudon on May 19, 2010, 12:56:40 pm
9 days and counting...
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: skully on May 19, 2010, 02:35:01 pm
WooHoo!!!!
Get some, Mark! Watch that pitch through the Diorite on The Tribal.....Kinda sketch, though, Bryan thought it was cool.(that would be Minerals).
I'd like to have some dates to look fwd to, I'm stuck here until Fall, though I'll get out to the Perch again before then.
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: mhudon on May 19, 2010, 05:22:12 pm
Thanks, I'll keep a heads-up on that one. I'm going to be scared shitless the whole time anyway so it might not matter which pitch I'm on!
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: smack on May 29, 2010, 12:05:06 am
I'm leaving for the valley tomorrow morning. The weather looks great... Muir wall!!!!! psyched!!!

Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Slakkey on May 29, 2010, 11:05:19 am
Thinking of going back up to the Valley at the end of next week. We saw all 4 seasons during the week of the 17th - 22nd. STill had a good time though. Weather is looking great and no doubt the action will pick up on the walls for sure. So should know by this weekend if we are going to make the journey back up but if not There is always Sept.
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Caz on June 06, 2010, 05:22:52 pm
Got dates that are soon and got plans for something harder that anything I've done so far... I'll let you all know how it goes.


Zac
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Mike. on June 07, 2010, 09:26:28 am
Okay, sleuths...let's figure out Caz's plan...

Not El Cap--He said he would let us know, not Tom. Doubt Caz will be on it after Tom leaves.

Harder...hmm, I'm guessing it's harder climbing, not a harder overall route...Working guy prolly doesn't wanna do the marches up to HD and nail harder...but maybe he's no longer working?

I'm guessing the Column, some nailing line like ELL or Afroman.

This is why I'm in the creative field. Because I'm so often off on the facts. Have a good time, Caz.


I might make it up later this year. Playing it by year, so to speak. Glad you guys are getting it done...


Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: mungeclimber on June 07, 2010, 12:36:18 pm
hrm, I'm going with the wild card here. 

Gobi Wall?
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: *Mucci* on June 07, 2010, 02:08:03 pm
I am betting on caz taking down something on the tower.

Roulette?
WDD?

Or maybe a ribbon falls route?
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Caz on June 07, 2010, 04:28:09 pm
Wow...

I didn't mean for it to become guess the route! Just didn't want to jinx it. I think you guy's are giving me too much credit... Roulette? I've looked at that start! No way! I know I asked about topos for Afroman and ELL but I'm not going obscure.


T minus 3 days...

Maybe I'll post up from the wall...
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: skully on June 07, 2010, 05:10:50 pm
I agree with YOU, Caz. When folks ask, just say, "Well, I really couldn't say."
This is an old Valley tradition. Have a blast up there, BroMan.
WooHoo!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: smack on June 07, 2010, 05:55:33 pm
Woo..pulled off the muir to the upper nose. Awesome time on the stone. Maybe a microTR will be written.
 

Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: skully on June 07, 2010, 06:16:01 pm
I know We'd dig it.
Have at it, Brother. Sounds like a good time.

WOOT!                                            Woot!                                                       Woot!
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: waulrat on June 07, 2010, 07:28:19 pm
Zac whats the plan man!?! Oh wait, am I the only other one who knows? I can't wait to get away from the snobby wine country event planners and on to that "to be announced" wall!
Should be a good time!
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Mike. on June 07, 2010, 07:39:00 pm
Climbers demand itineraries. And I say...fuck them! Ever notice every other team you walk by from the triangle to the base just has to know your target route and how much time you plan on it? When they say "where ya going?" we say "over there!" (pointing) Haha... I don't ask, partly because I don't care that much. Just that you're there climbing something is enough. Then there's Pete. He'll force you to know what his current, future and past objectives are whether or not you want to hear it or care. That's when I really high tail it outa there.

Go have some fun, Caz. Enjoy the nice weather! Stoked for ya...
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Mike. on June 07, 2010, 07:43:35 pm
Nice going, smack! Big line!

But...are you gonna go back to the upper dihedrals of Muir? That's the headliner of the route, brother. I can't believe you hooked a right, dude! All good. I'm sitting at a computer, WTF do I know.




vvv Got ya bro--figured there was strong rationale. Hell of a prize you went back with in any case. Cheers.
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: smack on June 08, 2010, 09:53:41 am
Yah we went onto the nose for many small reasons. There was a slower party in front of us on the muir, we had already lost a day of time due to some health issues, we were moving slowly, yadda yadda yadda, but it was super fun and worked out well.
I would like to get back up there via the muir blast, but it will be awhile. I only get a week or two of vacation and yosemite is quite the distance from boulder.
Thanks for all the encouragement.
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: mungeclimber on June 08, 2010, 11:48:11 am
solid job

Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: offset on June 08, 2010, 05:35:42 pm
dates dates dates... things are gittin done, yo!!!

got two pitches fixed on my route and my neighbors bailed... 8 DAYS OF WATER FOR FREE!!!   i've been putting off carrying/filtering water to the last minute..  procrastination pays off!!!

weather is about to cool off... git some!!!!

STOKE!!
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: *Mucci* on June 08, 2010, 11:44:39 pm
Nice!

I love it when this board comes alive!!!!

Congrats to Xtreme, smack, Mark, sorry if I left anybody out.

Big psych airmail to Caz and offset!

Whooooop!

Mucci
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: YetAnotherDave on June 09, 2010, 08:02:54 am
I love it when this board comes alive!!!!

I love the energy of people telling their stories, and getting psyched to climb, but the early-season quiet periods on the board are cool too cuz they mean people are away from their computers and sending!

3 weeks til my solo trip - 3-4 days of 5.8 C2 fun!
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Mike. on June 09, 2010, 09:09:22 am
You guys all suck...Get that stuff done!

Get a tricky placement and bust a free move for me, eh? OOOOOHHHHH!!!
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Caz on June 10, 2010, 10:32:51 am
2 more hours and I'll be on my way! I'm watching the minutes count down for this show to be over and I can get in the car...
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Mike. on June 10, 2010, 01:54:09 pm
I'll guess Mideast Crisis.
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: xtrmecat on June 17, 2010, 10:49:39 am
  My month of May 6 till June 6th came and went. Oh my god, was that the best time I've had that didn't result in lawyers and probation. Many free days in the rain, and some in snow. I did get on Zodiac as a party of 3 with a whiner that bailed us from 1/3 the way up on day 2. Probably should have offered him the spare softgoods to get down and just continued up. Oh well lesson learned there.

  We did do T-Trip the next weather window that opened up, froze our butts off, and had the time of our lives. Grade 6 virgin no more. Wooooo Hoooooo. I now owe my wife and school my undivided attention until she has had enough of me, to make up for it. That should free me up come Zion winter wall season again. Hmmm. You know that Cosmic egg thingy...........I hear it has a crack.........


   Bob
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Slakkey on June 17, 2010, 11:09:25 am
Great Job Bob, we were there when you were on the Zodiac. Weather was sure on and off that week but glad you got back up on The Trip Congrats, Well Done
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Caz on June 17, 2010, 03:35:10 pm
Ten Days After was great! I need to do a TR for it (or maybe Kyle will do one again).

I think I'm done with WC for a while...

I think I'm ready for El Cap next... maybe... what do you think Kyle? Are we ready?



Zac
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: YetAnotherDave on June 17, 2010, 04:05:28 pm
  My month of May 6 till June 6th came and went. Oh my god, was that the best time I've had that didn't result in lawyers and probation...

Nice work - you got a TR in the works for those of us still cube-bound?

my dates are now in the long-range weather forecast (and not looking too bad :-)
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Mike. on June 17, 2010, 05:02:25 pm
Hey, Bob and Caz...

T.U.A.S.!
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: xtrmecat on June 18, 2010, 09:43:11 am
            T.U.A.S.!?????????




   Huh?

  Bob
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Mike. on June 18, 2010, 12:16:28 pm
Tell Us A Story

Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: waulrat on June 21, 2010, 01:32:00 am
Zac dude... I think its time!
I had a few days to recover from the climb now, and the stoke is back so its on!

I'm gonna do the TR for TDA soon...maybe tomorrow even!
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: Slakkey on August 23, 2010, 04:15:24 pm
Ok, the late summer / Fall climbing season is approaching. Curious what is on peoples agenda For me its up to The Valley Sept. 21 - 26. As usual we load up and then decide when we get there what to climb. Maybe poke around some routes on El Cap or the Column. The discussion on Iron Hawk is of interest as it is one I have not done yet. Dont think we can pull it off this time but maybe scope it out in a little more detail while we are there.

It is also during the time of the Yosemite Facelift which was actually a lot of fun. The $20.00 bottomless beer glass can come and handy at times. and it is a good cause. So, thats it for the immediate future. I actually have some projects to work on so that has kept me busy through the summer and through this fall.
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: mhudon on August 23, 2010, 06:32:51 pm
October 8 thru the 23rd. Freerider and the Shield for me.
I don't expect to be able to free climb all of Freerider. I'm expecting 95% or so though.
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: lambone on August 24, 2010, 09:44:20 am
Looks like I am going to be missing another season. Knee is still weak and janky and wifes pregnancy is touch and go.

:(
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: mungeclimber on August 24, 2010, 10:23:32 am
hope that doesn't mean risky for ya Lambone, rather than unsure of due dates.  positive thoughts to ya.




for the thread topic for me, Freak Show is still a go in October. 
Title: Re: Got Dates!
Post by: skully on August 24, 2010, 12:16:42 pm
I'm ACTUALLY lookin' at goin' Valleyward, this season!
Buckin' for Oct 10 thru 23rd. Been in touch with Jeremy, from NM(He's a Desert Tower monkey).
He should be there then, too. I'll let him name his route. Not my dept.
I haven't quite placed mine yet. We'll see.