Big Walls Forum

Big Wall Index => Big Wall Trip Reports => Topic started by: Erik Sloan on April 28, 2010, 01:15:44 pm

Title: Great Slab Route, 3-4/10
Post by: Erik Sloan on April 28, 2010, 01:15:44 pm
Wow, this route kicked my butt!

I fixed to the top of pitch 9(new topo, 11 on the old!) and got belayed on two pitches(3 and 9) but otherwise did everything alone.

Awesome times.

(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e69/ez108/Great%20Slab%20Route%20Feb%202010/Columnrightlines2.jpg)

Been working on getting all the Column route's topos dialed this winter so after reading about Mike and partner trying GSR last Spring, but not being able to find anyone else who has done it or heard of anyone doing it, I decided to check it out.

First pitch--fun A2
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e69/ez108/Great%20Slab%20Route%20Feb%202010/IMG_1056.jpg)

These guys were key
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e69/ez108/Great%20Slab%20Route%20Feb%202010/IMG_1217.jpg)

whole lotta these pictures in my batch, hahahaha
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e69/ez108/Great%20Slab%20Route%20Feb%202010/IMG_1214.jpg)

traversing the Great Slab
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e69/ez108/Great%20Slab%20Route%20Feb%202010/IMG_1509.jpg)

Upper, splitter part of the route
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e69/ez108/Great%20Slab%20Route%20Feb%202010/IMG_1567.jpg)

Looking down the variation roof pitch I drilled to avoid two down/around/traversing pitches
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e69/ez108/Great%20Slab%20Route%20Feb%202010/IMG_1571.jpg)

Bitchin Roof!
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e69/ez108/Great%20Slab%20Route%20Feb%202010/IMG_1569.jpg)

Relieved to get through this one, with a storm on the way.
(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e69/ez108/Great%20Slab%20Route%20Feb%202010/IMG_1576.jpg)


GSR's FAist probably discouraged early repeaters by rating the second pitch a sandbag A3. The obvious crack on this pitch is rurps/beaks straight off the belay for 40' to slightly easier but still thin climbing. I decided to climb over to a 20' C1 crack off the belay which allowed me to skip some of the initial thinness. That and they called it a Grade V.

Thanks Washington Column. Cheers,
e
Title: Re: Great Slab Route, 3-4/10
Post by: Caz on April 28, 2010, 01:22:31 pm
Nice! What formation is it on? Looks like you hit some wicked roofs!
Title: Re: Great Slab Route, 3-4/10
Post by: Erik Sloan on April 28, 2010, 01:28:50 pm
Does this help?

(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e69/ez108/Afroman/Columnlines2.jpg)
Title: Re: Great Slab Route, 3-4/10
Post by: Caz on April 28, 2010, 01:31:05 pm
just a bit...
Title: Re: Great Slab Route, 3-4/10
Post by: mungeclimber on April 28, 2010, 09:04:46 pm
25' upside down?

huh?


variant pitch then?
Title: Re: Great Slab Route, 3-4/10
Post by: Erik Sloan on April 29, 2010, 09:05:15 am
some variations sure. Topo should be done soon!
Title: Re: Great Slab Route, 3-4/10
Post by: Jack Herer on May 04, 2010, 04:00:14 am
sweet ! mega stoke!

(http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e69/ez108/Great%20Slab%20Route%20Feb%202010/IMG_1217.jpg)

i love it...  a number three sunk like that makes A3 blades A0 via feratta

Title: Re: Great Slab Route, 3-4/10
Post by: Erik Sloan on May 09, 2010, 09:41:44 am
New Topo!

http://cid-ac7b92e4a1d5c148.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/Great%20Slab%20Route-Saddam%20Hussein.pdf
Title: Re: Great Slab Route, 3-4/10
Post by: Mike. on June 30, 2010, 09:42:06 am
How many new bolts did you add to this route, Erik? Since you drilled around both cruxes, you can't really say you did the route, eh?

Edited to add:

Is the "new" topo reflective of the actual new hole numbers?

What HW was replaced and with what?

Do you still believe that contacting FA parties prior to hardware mods "won't work"?

Does the lowering of route difficulties coincide with the new Web site and topos soon to be available from you?



You didn't climb Great Slab Route, you violated it. You don't deserve to be any sort of authority on Yosemite big walls. You deserve to be barred from "climbing" them.
Title: Re: Great Slab Route, 3-4/10
Post by: Garbonzo on June 30, 2010, 03:04:17 pm
I've got to say that drilling around 2 pitches of the route leaves me baffled and confused.  FA approved?  ASCA hardware?  Was your life in peril?  What was the point/intent in doing this?
Title: Re: Great Slab Route, 3-4/10
Post by: goatboy on June 30, 2010, 04:28:25 pm
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4750422170_fe25166673.jpg)
Title: Re: Great Slab Route, 3-4/10
Post by: skully on June 30, 2010, 05:14:47 pm
All This foofaraw has me a bit upset.
The way I see things, you do the route. Or you didn't.
Not much on the avoidance thing. I go up there to do the route.
If I can't do it, I just go home. I don't see a point in variations around cruxes.

(Good one, GoatBoy S.)
Title: Re: Great Slab Route, 3-4/10
Post by: Mr. on June 30, 2010, 06:08:45 pm
Hey when is the variation to the down traverse on the Trip getting a shortcut? That pitch is dangerous.

King Swing? What a fecking hassle!

Man the freeclimbing on Lost in America is ghey. Someone needs to fix that problem.

j/k Nanook, dig the replacement efforts, always. You've done much good for the yosemite climbing community and that shouldnt be overlooked. Didnt see the point in doing the GSR bolt shortcut, though. Havent been up there so I dont know the details. Isn't there cool climbing and a rad belay at the end of that roof? It always looked like one of the better parts of the route from the deck.

Again, always stoked to have you REplacing unsafe junk. What was your reasoning for this "variation"?
Title: Re: Great Slab Route, 3-4/10
Post by: skully on June 30, 2010, 10:38:29 pm
I DO agree that you've done a vast amount of badly needed maintenance, all over, but Some edges over into The Heavy Hand.
Tread lightly? There's a balance there, I'm sure.
Title: Re: Great Slab Route, 3-4/10
Post by: slabbyd on July 02, 2010, 12:55:39 am
It's interesting to note that what E.S. has done is not significantly different than what has become the de-facto style of big wall free climbing, the bolted squeeze-job variation.  Yet there it seems widely accepted or at least not widely criticized.  In both cases your bolting a minor variation to make the climb easier.  Dihedral Wall, Zodiac now Mescalito have been given the same treatment have they not?   Personally I'm not a big fan though I don't expect my opinion to count for a whole lot!   
Title: Re: Great Slab Route, 3-4/10
Post by: goatboy on July 02, 2010, 05:56:41 am
There is a big difference between retro bolting to attempt a
free ascent and bolting up a roof to avoid the cruxes.

Are you going to go back and free the roof Nanook or is
this a bullshit variation to a classic route?
Title: Re: Great Slab Route, 3-4/10
Post by: Erik Sloan on July 02, 2010, 02:33:14 pm
Yo Gang,

Been away from the computer.

The only thing I would add to the great discussion here is, that variations don't affect the route so are fair game no? For example, Brian Law's drillup direct start to the Zodiac is awful compared to the fun regular first pitch....but we've all done it at least once. The variation is less natural than the original climbing but is useful in some circumstances. Most variations probably fall into that category (first pitch of Lurking Fear, ect.).

The slab pitch traverse is probably 5.10 or easier; I didn't have a belay so my variation made a lot more sense with the deteriorating placements that were there.

fun stuff: The King Swing used to be done in two, much easier swings, and there is currently talk of restoring that original second penji point. There is an aid variation to the free pitch on LnA, hahhahaha, it's like A3.

GSR is fun. Git sum!

best
e

Title: Re: Great Slab Route, 3-4/10
Post by: Erik Sloan on July 19, 2010, 02:07:52 pm
Alright, who's heading up there? The route should be pretty clean still.
Title: Re: Great Slab Route, 3-4/10
Post by: Garbonzo on July 20, 2010, 04:08:47 pm
Might be fun to head up with the crowbar for some de-ASCA-ification.
Title: Re: Great Slab Route, 3-4/10
Post by: Burt on August 10, 2010, 03:43:37 pm
Are those ASCA hangers on the var? ...cause if they are "Lucy you got some splaining to do!"
Title: Re: Great Slab Route, 3-4/10
Post by: Jack Herer on August 24, 2010, 12:07:21 pm
Might be fun to head up with the crowbar for some de-ASCA-ification.

Hey don't go around talking shit on ASCA when you dont know the scoop. I do not belive Eric is affiliated with ASCA in anyway at all anymore. ASCA bolts are used only for replacing bolt for bolt, wich I'm sure he would know anyways if he was. I'm sure some ASCA bolts have held your ass. Just hate to see the ASCA knocked around when they do nothing but good.