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Messages - SMC

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Good idea for a thread.

I'm training for walls this year by lifting weights at least 2x a week, cardio 3x a week, swimming 2km 2x a week.  I've also been walking my dogs for an hour or so with a bag of sand in a pack.  Trying to climb as much as I can, but living in Vancouver doesn't help. My patience lasts about 30 minutes in a climbing gym, but I know it could be useful for training.

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Non Climbing (if you must) / Re: Yosemite camping. How do you roll?
« on: December 06, 2012, 01:54:18 pm »
We're definitely set on taking our trailer.  It can't hurt to try for a site in the park, I've just heard that it fills up extremely fast.  Guess I gotta be on it!

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Non Climbing (if you must) / Yosemite camping. How do you roll?
« on: December 06, 2012, 12:39:17 pm »
So my wife and I are planning on the valley this fall.  Me for an el cap route, my wife for hanging out and relaxing with our dogs. If I was by myself, I'd go the Camp 4 route, but my wife likes a little more comfortable camping experience.  We're looking into private campgrounds outside the park with hookups for our trailer.  I know that reserving an rv campsite in the park is chancy at best.
Does anyone here have any experience with private campgrounds outside Yosemite?  I'm curious to know what you all do for accommodations while not on the wall?  Camp 4? Bivi in your car? Other campgrounds in the park?

Thanks

4
Big Wall Forum / Re: 2:1 Hauling Question
« on: November 28, 2012, 05:54:46 pm »
You got it. I fix the haul line and don't connect it at all to the hauler. Once you attach the rope grab part of the 2:1 rig, you can pull up enough slack to put it thru the mini trax.

I had to play around with the length of my z cord so that when I pulled up enough slack to load the mini trax, it wasn't out of reach.

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Big Wall Forum / Re: LIA pics are really good!
« on: November 28, 2012, 03:33:24 pm »
Awesome pics!  Fuel for the Fire!

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Big Wall Forum / Re: 2:1 Hauling Question
« on: November 28, 2012, 03:29:20 pm »
Lambone: I definitely hear you on wanting to get the haul done quickly!  There were times during my practice session that I switch over to 1:1 and be done with it.  I really like to have as many techniques as possible in my quiver.  What device do you use for hauling?

One thing I really like about 2:1 is the ability to rap the haul line without being on a toothed cam or a klemheist sling bypassing the cam, and then being able to easily put the weighted line into the haul device. 

Hey, sorry if I'm re-hashing something that's been discussed ad nauseum!  I'm just stoked to be figuring all this stuff out and my wife, while always being lovely and supportive of me, is frankly looking a little bored now...

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Big Wall Forum / Re: 2:1 Hauling Question
« on: November 28, 2012, 10:04:33 am »
Here is a pic of the holding part of my setup.  It's pretty much a copycat version of Mark Hudon's.




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Big Wall Forum / Re: 2:1 Hauling Question
« on: November 27, 2012, 07:06:25 pm »
Those are great great points, Mark.  I'm mainly trying to perfect this system for soloing, as it makes up for most of the climbing that I do.  I just feel that if I have the 2:1 system totally dialed in, I'll be able to haul regular rations of food, water, and gear, plus a couple days extra in case I'm moving slower than expected.

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Big Wall Forum / Re: 2:1 Hauling Question
« on: November 27, 2012, 04:05:43 pm »
Ok, that's good to know.  I went back and looked at a video I took and I think it was under a foot with each pull.  It seemed to take forever to haul, and I kept having to remind myself that I was having to move twice as far as the bag.  In retrospect, I should have hauled it 1:1 to feel the difference.

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Big Wall Forum / 2:1 Hauling Question
« on: November 27, 2012, 03:19:22 pm »
Hey All,

So I've put together a 2:1 hauling ratchet and managed to capitalize on a non rain day in Squamish to try it out.  I loaded a haulbag with about 100 or so lbs and set up a haul up a 180' slab.  After playing around with the length of my z cord, I was able to raise the bag 12" to 16" at time, going from standing to a full squat. 

I'm wondering how far I should be able to raise the bag with each stroke?  Is there sort of a max amount to shoot for with each pull when the system is running at high efficiency?

Thanks!

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Big Wall Forum / Re: GriGri 2 for solo aid?
« on: March 07, 2012, 07:53:24 am »
Oh wise guy, eh? ;^)  Thanks for the pic.  Yeah, I guess my computer has that function too...

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Big Wall Forum / Re: GriGri 2 for solo aid?
« on: March 07, 2012, 07:13:48 am »
Thanks for all the responses!  I totally agree that you can't find too may uses for a grigri on a wall. Having a backup makes a lot of sense to me. Can anyone post a pic of a gri rigged with a keeper cord?

I like my beers, but fight to stave off dehydration. A couple years ago, I had to bail off a route I was soloing in Squamish as both arms and legs kept locking up with cramps. Not fun.

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Big Wall Forum / Re: GriGri 2 for solo aid?
« on: March 06, 2012, 09:56:46 pm »
I'm curious. Do you guys even bring a second device as a backup? Or would you just go with clove hitches in the event of losing your primary device? I'm all for saving room for beverages!

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Big Wall Forum / GriGri 2 for solo aid?
« on: March 06, 2012, 06:45:39 pm »
Hey everyone! Longtime lurker, first time poster here.  I really enjoy the amount of knowledge passed around on this site.  I've got a lot of questions about big wallin and solo aid techniques that I'm hoping you all can help me out with.  I hope I can share some of my knowledge and experience with you as well...

I use a regular, unmodified grigri as a belay device for soloing. I've been thinking about putting a backup in my haul bag in the event that I drop that sucker.  Anyone use a grigri 2 for soloing? Any reason not too?  I guess the old style has been discontinued, and I'd rather not use ebay for such a critical link.  What do you think?

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