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Messages - splitchard

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Big Wall Forum / Guidebook for Zion big walls
« on: January 10, 2009, 09:25:14 pm »
Can anyone recommend a good guidebook for Zion, including good detailed info on the trade routes like Moonlight Buttress, Prodigal Son, and Touchstone? Thanks!!

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Glass Menagerie beta at Looking Glass, NC
« on: October 15, 2007, 01:06:53 pm »
Lunchbox,
Thanks for the beta on this variation!  I can't wait to get a chance to check it out.  The first time I tried the Glass, I got to the top of the 1st pitch and looked across that HORRIBLE traverse and after thinking about it for awhile ended up bailing (I know, probably a complete pussy thing to do, but I did get a late start also and the 1st pitch took me longer than I thought it would).  I know of a couple of guys on that traverse who grabbed what they thought was an alright hold and it just broke off all of a sudden!  Taking a 25-30ft pendulum fall like that is not something you want to do while soloing (or with a partner for that matter).

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Glass Menagerie beta at Looking Glass, NC
« on: September 05, 2007, 09:45:11 am »
I am just sending this back to the top.


It sounds like that variation is the better way to go in general, I wonder why it isn't in the guidebooks?

Do you know if the belay for this variation is the original 3rd pitch belay or does it have its own belay?  If it has its own belay, where does the variation meet up with the original route?  Thanks!

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Garbonzo,
Is the maillion rapide that you use steel or aluminum?  What is the shape, circle D, oval?

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So I've soloed a couple of 1 pitch aid climbs now and I've been using a Petzl Attache screw-lock biner to connect my GriGri to the belay loop on my harness.  I am sure that this is fine, but I have to keep a constant eye on the connection to make sure that the biner doesn't orient itself incorrectly so that the force of a fall would be placed on the minor axis, which is very week on this biner.

I was wondering if anyone had a better way of connecting the belay biner to the GriGri or maybe a better biner to use for this?  I was looking at some Circel D shaped biners made by Petzl (specifically the Omni biner and a mallion rapide, although the Omni seems to be able to keep it's strength when loaded in more directions).

Thanks for any help!

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Petzl Pro Traxion pulley opinions?
« on: May 17, 2007, 08:24:49 am »
Has anyone heard of or used the Ushba Hogwauler?  I don't have any personal experience with it, but it sounds like it might be a pretty good devise and weighs almost half as the Kong Block Roll.  It is rated for live loads and the cam doesn't have any teeth to shred the rope.  The price is about the same too.

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Free A5 Big Wall Hammer contest
« on: May 09, 2007, 07:10:18 am »
I thought I'd join in on this thing.  I've been having a grand time looking around this region, first time really using Google Earth.  It's a great tool!






Close?  Any hints??

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Glass Menagerie beta at Looking Glass, NC
« on: May 04, 2007, 10:49:11 am »
Here's another try.


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Big Wall Forum / Re: Glass Menagerie beta at Looking Glass, NC
« on: May 04, 2007, 10:37:37 am »
Here's the top of the Glass Menagerie (climb #32).  Sorry it took so long to get this posted up.  If it doesn't come out I'll try again.

It looks like you would probably end up at the 3rd pitch belay station if you went up and right from the pitch 1 belay.


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Big Wall Forum / Re: Glass Menagerie beta at Looking Glass, NC
« on: April 28, 2007, 01:05:43 pm »
Lunchbox, thanks for the info!  It sounds like that variation is the better way to go in general, I wonder why it isn't in the guidebooks?

Do you know if the belay for this variation is the original 3rd pitch belay or does it have its own belay?  If it has its own belay, where does the variation meet up with the original route?  Thanks!

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Big Wall Forum / Glass Menagerie beta at Looking Glass, NC
« on: April 26, 2007, 11:30:40 am »
This is for those that have climbed on the east coast.  I am looking to solo this route, but my only concern is the horrible 35ft unprotected 5.8 traverse on the 2nd pitch.  I heard about a possible alternative to this traverse,  I guess from the 1st pitch anchors you can go up and to the right on aid and supposedly the belay anchors are better.  Is anyone familiar with this variation and would you recommend it?  Where does it link up with the normal route (at the pitch 3 anchors or higher up)?  What does it consist of (fixed pieces, all clean aid, any hooking, ?rating?)?

Also, how is the climbing on the slab to the summit after the 5.9 crack on the last pitch?  Iis it really 5.7R? How steep and long is it?

Any info would be awesome!!

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Big Wall Forum / Second set of stoppers
« on: March 21, 2007, 02:08:16 pm »
Does anybody have any suggestions on getting a second set of stoppers?  I already have a set of Black Diamond Stoppers and HB Brass Offsets, so I am looking for something that will fill out and compliment these nicely.  Looking at possibly the new DMM Alloy Offsets due out this summer, DMM Wallnuts and Peanuts, and Wild Country Rocks.  Thanks!

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Recommendations for a second set of camming units
« on: November 08, 2006, 04:56:44 pm »
Doubling up on the cams that I already own is what I was originally going to do, until someone else recommended getting something different so as to have the most diverse set of cams to place in all kinds of cracks and pockets.  I could see how having different kinds of cams could be a problem though since you'd have to be comfortable with placing a multitude of cam styles and knowing when to place which type.  I guess I wouldn't get something different from the Camalots unless I could get really comfortable placing them.  Thanks

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Big Wall Forum / Recommendations for a second set of camming units
« on: November 08, 2006, 03:46:38 pm »
I currently own a set of CCH Aliens from black to grey and a set of BD Camalots from #0.5 to #4.  I am thinking that for aid climbing I want to add a set of BD C3's to back-up all of the Aliens.  In addition I am looking to get another set of cams that cover a range from about 0.77" to 2.53" (the sizes of the purple to yellow Camalots).  Do any of you have any suggestions on cams that would fit this range?  I am looking at possibly DMM 4CU's or Metolius Ultralight Range Finders.  I would think that it would make the most sense to have this second set be markedly different (in head width and places that they will fit in where the Camalots won't) from the Camalots.  Any of your thoughts would be excellent!  Thanks!

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Big Wall Forum / Sizing for a Yates Big Wall Rack
« on: October 27, 2006, 11:39:12 am »
I have yet another sizing question.  How is one of these supposed to fit and where is the metal clip in loop for the chest harness supposed to be located (ie. above, below, or resting on the nipple)?  I guess another good frame of reference for the fit would be where the top webbing loops on the shoulders should be positioned, like right on top of the shoulder or positioned more towards the front.  This is another case of having to purchase a piece of equipment online because no retailer in the area sells them and wondering if the one that I ordered is too large.  Thanks!!

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Big Wall Forum / Re: system update
« on: October 22, 2006, 12:37:40 pm »
Just posting to stay current.  Thanks!!

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I am new to wall climbing and I have heard that you tend to lose quite a bit of weight during the ordeal.  I am wondering just how much weight loss would be expected, say on a 2 day climb and also on a 5 day climb?  Specifically, I am asking this in terms of choosing a size for a Yates Shield harness.  I want to know how much room I should have left over to cinch it tighter if I lose inches around my waist during a wall climb.  I just bought one in a size medium and when wearing a light pair of shorts and no shirt I have about an inch on either side of the two buckles for cinching tighter.  Thanks!!

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Big Wall Forum / Your aider/daisy set up
« on: October 04, 2006, 12:03:45 pm »
Thanks for the picture euroford!!  I actually just got a response back from John Yates concerning this setup using Yates Speed Wall Ladders.  He said that the top loop's bar tack (where the locker would weight) is not full strength (it is rated at around 1200 lb/f), but that in the case of a full daisy fall where the bar tacks actually did rip, the locking biner would be caught by either/both the spreader bar or/and the grab loop.  Both of these are full strength.  Of course the locker would have to be clipped just as in the pic in the previous post by euroford.

So, with that said, I have another question.  I want to use the Metolius Easy Daisy with my setup.  I looked at the Metolius website and they say that it is only rated to 300 lb/f.  This is less than the strength of most pockets on traditional daisies!!  So the Easy Daisy wouldn't hold a daisy fall anyway.  And it would seem like the Easy Daisy would fail long before the bar tacking on the Speed Wall Ladders would rip at around 1200 lb/f!!  I am wondering if this is true?  Also, should I be trusting a piece of gear meant to hold my bodyweight that is only rated to hold a maximum of less than double my own bodweight?

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Big Wall Forum / Your aider/daisy set up
« on: October 03, 2006, 10:39:06 am »
I am relatively new to aid climbing, but I have a question for those that connect their Metolius Adjustable Daisy to their aiders with a locker and then place an oval on their aiders for clipping pro.  When you are on your current piece and are hanging from your adjustable daisy, what is the locking biner holding onto?  Is it okay for your body weight to be directly on the bar tacks of the aider?  For clarification, I am using a Yates Speed Wall ladder which has a top loop that is bar tacked at the bottom (although I would think that most all etriers/aiders are like this).  Please let me know if my question makes any sense.  Thanks!!

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