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Messages - jake

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A thought

-That guy is more badass than all you, google him. 

Big Wall Forum / Re: Native Son fixing length question.
« on: November 25, 2013, 11:29:11 pm »
Eric George is maybe one of the most gnarly aid climbers everyone has never heard of to have walked the earth.

He was said to have had fun and laughed on a pitch that made Tempest and P.S.D. look light.

Agave Nightmare pitch on Half Dome sounded insane, this and It's So Awful are scariest shit I have ever heard about...

Big Wall Forum / Re: Half Dome Girdle
« on: October 25, 2013, 11:43:44 pm »
A photo went with that article...

I bet it is way stout.  I remember reading that and thinking... holy shit!!!

Big Wall Forum / ACE/A5 hammock for sale
« on: October 21, 2013, 05:22:12 pm »
I have a ACE/A5 hammock that was for under a cabana ledge.  Used it for three nights but is pretty new.  $45+shipping 

I figured I'd post it here as I don't need it. 

Pretty sure climbing inside the rim is illegal at Crater Lake.

Big Wall Forum / Re: WTB: big hooks
« on: April 19, 2012, 11:25:38 am »
Pretty sure on the Nightmare topo it mentions a hook throw and a #4 sentinel nut throw or something...

Big Wall Forum / Re: Early ascents/repeats
« on: March 19, 2012, 11:12:48 pm »
I loved the disorderly TR also... read it for years... then went and tried the route with a half ass rack.  Sure Way to the John Muir was my sure way to pretty much stop climbing walls.  I was unwilling to take over the lead and just backclean the whole thing.  Sometimes I reget that one, but not really.  I can see Eric George up there just laughing on that pitch as it says in the TR... his Agave Nightmare pitch on White Trash Vacation sounded... gnar...

Big Wall Forum / Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« on: March 14, 2012, 12:58:30 pm »
Jack, stop smoking so much Haze so you can stop hallucinating...  besides we all know that was richard drilling bat hooks on Whims of Prayer.

Sea Horse is in NA area... lots of drilling.  FA person said... A5 is... bathook, copperhead, hook, beak, bolt.... ya that is 20 foot fall max.  Sounds like sport climbing.  Probably the modern Wings of Steel... let the rumors and lies began.

Big Wall Forum / Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« on: March 13, 2012, 12:26:58 pm »
More on El Cap... Gerberding aldude route near realm of monkeys, Timbuctoo left or something, direct finish off of chicken head, Sea Horse, Tividar route next to Native son/iron hawk, Sticky Rice, Slackers Toil, Darkstar, maybe some Afganistan Route that bridwell did...

Half Dome: Blue Shift, Psychedlic Shack, Long Walk, Repo Man, White Trash Vacation, Solitary Confinement, the Traverse.

This is what a file is for... 

Big Wall Forum / Re: cheers to Brant solo on Wet Denim!
« on: November 16, 2011, 11:28:18 am »
Fuck the saw, go big! 

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rigging Plates
« on: November 05, 2011, 11:41:20 pm »
Weighs too much??? A 3 hole one weighs as much as a carabiner does. 

Big Wall Forum / Re: Stowing hooks on the lead?
« on: October 31, 2011, 11:15:05 am »
Never had a hook or beak bag or felt the need, an on the lead "safety" bag, seems to be more helpful. 

Big Wall Forum / Re: Zion Routes - Suggestions?
« on: October 20, 2011, 03:12:24 pm »
I swear I remember someone telling me they had climbed Latitudes twice... probably getting a little whored out and gaping these days. 

Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: September 26, 2011, 12:10:38 pm »

Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: September 17, 2011, 09:23:34 pm »

Big Wall Forum / Re: High mileage guys on South Seas > PO
« on: September 12, 2011, 11:05:53 pm »
#4 heads only belong in open corners.  The hardest to stick head placements.  

I think we should look up on being fucking lightweights and drill the shit out of everything.  All these routes are trade routes anyways... Jesus help those pin scars  

But, I agree with that most head placements are not needed.  At least in the larger sizes.  I am still gonna rant on the ant-heading thing... HAHAH

Big Wall Forum / Re: High mileage guys on South Seas > PO
« on: September 09, 2011, 10:06:34 pm »
I'm no wall ace!  The desire to repeat the FA experience is an understandable one.  Yet, as most of us know, we can't. You are only following those before you and adding history to the route when you climb an aid route.  Should ones  mark be a line of rivets next to a blown out head seam?  One that a real wall ace could get head to stick, where others have failed? 

Big Wall Forum / Re: High mileage guys on South Seas > PO
« on: September 09, 2011, 12:35:48 pm »

Repeaters being robbed of FA experience, this route was done way before I was born! 

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rare copper corner A5 ledge sighting
« on: June 12, 2011, 12:00:46 pm »
What kind of ledge is Bongard using on Sea of Dreams that is shown on the cover of the Bigwalls Book?

Big Wall Forum / Re: FYI: Gridlock issue with GriGri
« on: June 08, 2011, 10:06:31 am »
Use a huge steel biner...  there are several that have high minor/short axis strength.  

Petzl Attache (Al)-   23 kN long axis, 6 kN open gate, 7 kN short axis
Petzl Vulcan (steel)-  40 kN long axis, 11 kN open gate, 16 kN short axis

Many of the steel biners have way higher strength in the long axis than the one I compared to the attache.  

Big Wall Forum / Re: Pictures on the main forum page?
« on: June 02, 2011, 07:34:37 pm »

Atlantic Ocean?
Dirty young man party...??

Ok, only first one is for sure.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Noob Question About Metolius Half Dome Haul Bag
« on: April 21, 2011, 08:44:38 pm »
Have fun, that's an enjoyable route!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Thoughts on runners/draws for solo-aid
« on: April 16, 2011, 10:46:11 pm »

Why would you ever want to aid a bomber fat free crack on big cams?  That is like jacking off when you could be fucking your wet waiting lady!

If I climbed that route and my partner led that wide shit... I'd even make him clean it while I drank all the teams beer and ate your most beloved item of food.

Big Wall Forum / Re: one of the first aid lines I did in the bay area
« on: March 07, 2011, 06:32:12 pm »
I  have chosen to stand in aider because I love it more than any other form of climbing.  Well if I'm nailing pins, heads, and hooking that is. 

I used to aid climb all over my backyard in huge trees that didn't have limbs to climb till way off the ground.  I just used 16 penny nails and made rope ladders and would climb to the branches then to the top of the tree.  It was so fun.  Hardly ever used a rope so I'd have to down climb it two.  Had no idea there was such a thing as aid climbing then. 

Once I realized aid climbing was a hobby for people I got into it.  I hand tied aiders and bought some beaks and blades.  I started climbing trees that way. Thinking back to it and realize some of this was solid A4 style climbing.  Like not that technical but risk factor was high, decked several times from as high as 30 feet when the beaks would rip. 

The most fun was had on my tree fort, I nailed 2x4s and other piece of onto it and would drive pins behind them like expando flakes and hook other stuff i nailed on the fort. I'd start under my fort and climb up the tree than traverse under it on rurps and hooks then I'd go up the wall with the 2x4 expando and hook moves.  Many falls were taken and most were grounders.  I think the high point of my fort was something like 35-40 feet off the ground.  It was way fun.  A few of my friends got pretty beat up doing this with me... they never became much in the way of climbers but I bet they could have been pretty good aiders.

Last time I did any of this goofiness was a few years ago.  Drank a few beers and climbed a tree on #1 blades, when I cleaned it they all came out by hand.  Probably a 50 foot stretch, never led or cleaned a pitch on real rock where I cleaned so much gear by hand as I did in the trees or my fort. 

Thanks for making me remember about those fun times.

That flake on pitch 10 was missing when I did ZM in 2005 and it was quite challenging to reach the belay.  I spent 2-3 hours on the same hook trying to find something else to hook, I ended up having to cheat and use a stiff quick draw to extend my reach a half a foot to get to the belay.  Ammon went up there after I did and whipped off that hook move onto those heads and got the rope stuck down below in the corner... HAHAHA... nuts!  I think he used a fuckness duct taped to get to the belay.  I later heard people drilled or enchanted that area. 

The flake that made up the end of the 8oclock roof pitch and the start of one of the Shortest Straw pitches fell off in 2005 too.  Was the loosest thing I've ever climbed from the SS side!  I was almost positive it was going to rip off the wall with me on it.  You could feel it leaning away from the wall after I got a hook on top and was on it. There was all sorts of cracking and rocks falling down further into it too.  Sure enough it went a few weeks later and almost whacked nanook. 

No idea what fell off in 2009 but the pitch 5 area of shortest straw was way rotten and hollow.   

Big Wall Forum / Re: Free A5 Big Wall Hammer contest
« on: October 15, 2010, 12:39:47 pm »

Here is something I found about her climbing the wall... what a rad chick! Some misinformation in that article tho, she didn't solo the Reticent but did it with Pep Masip for the 3rd ascent.  It also doesn't mention her route Sol Solet which was A5 and she used lead heads in some open corner over the course of 2 days!  That route took a little over a month to put up... GNAR!!

Big Wall Forum / Re: El Cap winter route suggestions
« on: October 14, 2010, 05:06:40 pm »
Maybe just grab some pins and heads and climb Native Son, ZM, or Shortest Straw.  It will feel longer cause you will have to test placements...

Big Wall Forum / Re: A5 snapshot in time (catalog related)
« on: October 04, 2010, 12:56:12 pm »

Big Wall Forum / Re: The pussification of big wall climbing
« on: August 06, 2010, 01:31:41 pm »
I wonder how many holes were drilled on the FA? Nanook seems to want user friendly routes, this is a concept I can't understand.  As time passes the valley will shed the disgrace.

I have felt like such an idiot on walls before for using a stiff QD to snag an out of reach belay(missing feature), opening a flake too much that it damaged it, avoiding bees nest by drilling ladder(FA), but I can't imagine going on a route and drilling shortcuts to skip "so-called" cruxes.  I remember the routes I worried about always had death blocks, I would look up there wondering how I would handle those sections.  I would never have thought... oh I will drill a ladder past them to create a variation. 

That said, I won't tell Nanook about what he should or shouldn't do.  I know what I would do and that's all that really matters.  I certainly wouldn't rape a Kor, Madsen, Schmitz route.

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