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Messages - lambone

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Schedule of Offenses?
« on: November 12, 2015, 10:46:30 pm »
Anchors are all bomber ASCA bolts. Aside from the top of p4 which is natural with 2 fixed pins.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Schedule of Offenses?
« on: November 11, 2015, 10:19:03 am »
Joe used natural hooks...even though a couple of them were exploding flakes of rock on us and I was pretty certain he was gunna whip onto the portaledge!

There are bathooks on most pitches on the route.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Schedule of Offenses?
« on: November 08, 2015, 10:51:36 am »
Just as a side note, Joe Marlay and I were surprised and kind of disgusted by how many drilled bathooks we climbed past on Aurora last month. A few of them were necessary to pass blank sections between features or rivets. But I lost track of how many times we climbed right past a hole by other means and didn't notice them until we were above it, saying "WTF!?"

For instance on the crux "A4" American Zone pitch Gnarly Marlay was hooking crumbling flakes just above the belay looking at ripping to the anchor and then was like, "oh wtf!? There's a bathooks right there!" Multiple times.

Anyway. I'm bringing some putty and a bag of granite dust up every route from now on to fill any hole that I can climb past. I'm just an average climber at best, and I'm only 5ft 9inches tall...if I can get by a move without a hole then anyone should be able to.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Fa grading question.
« on: October 04, 2015, 09:50:22 pm »
Thin nailing would generally be A2 right? Assuming it's pretty bomber...

Big Wall Forum / Re: Best place to leave a car for WC
« on: September 17, 2015, 12:10:52 pm »
You also gotta dump the poop tube in the garbage can by the front door on your way out.  :mrgreen:

Big Wall Forum / Re: Totem Cams
« on: September 09, 2015, 10:16:33 pm »
I agree with the Outdoor gear lab assessment that they are heavy. The weight will add up if you are carrying doubles/triples.

"They work everywhere you place them." Seems to be the general consensus and in the few pitches I've used them on I can't say I disagree.

The Basics look better then the old aliens. The head is narrower.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Racking Iron
« on: September 09, 2015, 11:52:41 am »
I threaded my beaks like Mark last spring. Way better.

Basically I put one of each hook on two seperate biners, so if you F-up and drop one set you still have another. But don't drop the hooks.

I do the same with pins. One of each size per biner, three pins to a biner. I'll put more beaks, like 4-5 on a biner.

The way I rack all my gear including pins, cams, hooks, and nuts is with the gate of the biner facing out and down on the rack. I don't take the biners off the wall rack to get a piece, I leave the biners on and take one piece off at a time. That way you have less risk of dropping something. Everything has its place and if it doesn't fit it goes right back on the same biner. With 3-4 pieces per biner you have less biners on the shoulder rack and it's not so freakin heavy.

Not all my partners have liked this system, but it works for me. Some folks insist on every cam having its own biner...stuff like that and it just makes the rack a crowded clusterfuck. If you are always taking the biners off the rack to get gear it's way more likely that everything gets all mixed up and a mess.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Lurking fear spring
« on: July 24, 2015, 02:22:13 pm »
Joe filled up a bottle in June out of it and it had silverfish and floaties in it, so I passed.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet replacement ins and outs?
« on: July 21, 2015, 01:01:38 am »
Seen this?

My first experience using a drill came on El Cap, Mescalito in 2007 or '08. I had carried a small bolt kit for years but had never been forced to actually take it out and use it.

Well the opportunity came up on pitch 16 or 17 of Mesc when I climbed up to a sheered off rivet. It looked like the move could be bypassed by some funky swinging and rotten hooking shenanigans to way to the left, and some beta I had gotten was that it went. But I said "fuck it I'm just gunna replace the old broken rivet."

So I got started on the hardest thing I had ever done on EC up to that point. I had to get high in my 2nd step to place the new rivet at an equal height to the old one. My fifi length wasn't quite right and I had a heck of a time standing in the aiders while I drilled, I couldn't quite lock my knees straight and  had to rest my calf muscles many times. So my first piece of advice is make sure your system is dialed so you can stand and reach high in the aiders comfortably.

The biggest mistake I made and I think is fairly common was not drilling the rivet hole quite deep enough. With those split shank 1/4ers you really need it to go in past the split part or the rivet is significantly weaker. I wonder if the one I placed is still even there.

Having the right tools is important. With a set of tuning forks you can usually remove an old rivet and re-use the hole. This will save you a lot of time and effort and is just the cleaner way to go. Also if you can't re-use the hole you'll want some patch kit material to cover up the old one.

My buddy Keenan and I replaced like 8 or 9 old Anchor bolts on Sunkist and by the end we were getting pretty efficient at it. We were removing the old 1/4 inches and widening the old holes to 3/8. Which is tricky because the bit tends to bind in the old hole.

Couple peices of advice are that I've learned the hard way are:
-have your kit well organized and easy to use on lead.
-be able to get up high and maintain that position for like 20-30 min (if you are slow at it like me)
-3-5 taps then twist, light fast taps.
-blow out the hole a few times and measure the depth with the blow tube and make sure it's deep enough.

There are people on here with way more drilling experience then me who probly have better advice. But hopefully that helps a little. Bottom line is you just gotta do it to figure it out, so go find some choosy Boulder to practice on. Also lots of bolting threads on Supertopo.

Big Wall Forum / Re: A5 Expedition Fly
« on: July 18, 2015, 10:28:23 am »
Definitely overkill in the summer. Where these flys shine is in the winter, where even if the weather is clear they trap a lot of heat in, like a tent.

People are always looking for these.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Tis sa ack
« on: July 17, 2015, 10:58:53 pm »
Thanks Erik, I fully plan on taking advantage of your efforts and expense in the nearish future!

Does anyone have any updates on the recent rockfall and condition of the route? Seems like the first two-few pitches might have gotten hammered, and maybe the Maze?

Big Wall Forum / Re: WC weather this weekend?
« on: July 16, 2015, 10:59:21 am »
If you are on the right side it goes in the shade by early afternoon.

Just bring a gallon of water per person per day and maybe a half gallon each extra.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Gri Gri to clean/ jug
« on: July 11, 2015, 08:58:50 pm »
I just used the lead chord, I also clip-cleaned through some gear on a few pieces.

We brought pretty much your rack recommendation. Joe back cleaned a few sawed offs across pitch 2. I ended up using the #6 on p4 cause we had it, but it looked doable without. That pitch are up all our small cams.

We bailed in a waterfall off of pitch 7.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Dolt or Heart?
« on: July 11, 2015, 04:52:24 pm »
Maybe consider going up the first 8 Pitches of Never Never Land to Timbuktu Tower. Pretty moderate aid, not much mandetory free, likely no crowds, and a very straightforward rappels straight down from a sweet bivi ledge.

If you are soling you might wanna fix a couple pitches to make it more doable in a day.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Gri Gri to clean/ jug
« on: July 11, 2015, 12:35:40 pm »
I use the gri gri as a backup but not really for cleaning gear.

It slows things down if you are always yarding slack through.

Make sure they can clean traverses well. The first 8 pitches of NNL are like horizontal traverse, bolt ladder, horizontal traverse, bolt ladder, etc...

I think I did like 8 lower outs in a row on pitch 2.

Big Wall Forum / Re: south seas beta
« on: June 22, 2015, 01:59:22 pm »
Dave put up Atlantis. He's on FB everyday, I bet he'd answer you. I'd take his A2 rating with a grain of salt though.

Big Wall Forum / Re: south seas beta
« on: June 21, 2015, 02:58:04 pm »
Ya I can't say on the Atlantis pitch. You could probly email Bobo on Facebook about it.

I did South Seas about 10 years ago so it's all pretty vague. I do recall a heinous haul up to the Island though. My partner led the runout OW pitch above the ledge and thought it was no big deal. We took a full rest day there.

My partner whipped out of the A4 expanding traverse pitch on SS. It's a clean fall and he went back up and sent it mostly clean. I had to nail some pins just to clean some cams and brass nuts.

I fell a couple times out of expanding stuff up higher on the PO. The "Illusion Chain" or whatever flake is thin and scary. You mostly hook it to get past.

I had a couple failed El Cap attempts this spring. Got on Aurora and a series of setbacks just pushed my timeline out of the comfort zone and I decided I didn't want to get home days late and miss time with my kids. Tried Never Never Land with one planned bivi and we got stormed on hard just below Timbucktu Tower, so we bailed soaking wet. Luckily it was pretty warm out and the raps were straightforward.

Big Wall Forum / Re: south seas beta
« on: June 20, 2015, 04:22:09 pm »
The hauling up high is ok. I remember it being a bitch on the Island in the Sky, and maybe the last pitch.

Far End hauler should always be in your bag of tricks.

It's a great route. Not really A4 imo.

Big Wall Forum / Re: NNL Hauling Strategy?
« on: June 17, 2015, 10:06:57 pm »
My 2 cents, screw the 2:1

Space haul 1:1 with the second guy on the slack of the haul line. Bags will zip up the wall.

Big Wall Forum / Re: NNL Hauling Strategy?
« on: June 17, 2015, 09:56:18 pm »
Whoa,iPhone autocorrects jug to human...weird! Lol :mrgreen:

Big Wall Forum / Re: NNL Hauling Strategy?
« on: June 14, 2015, 10:14:43 pm »
You definitely want to fix from pitch 2 down to the ground for a couple reasons. One it saves you carrying all your gear up the 4th class. Pitch 1 is horrible to haul. Pitch 2 traverses 100ft across and starts on a big ledge with a bunch of loose rock on it. It's a pain to launch your bags from there. We did it with a little stubby on our attempt and it was still a pain.

I'd prolly do two separate hauls rather then one huge one, and you might be able to avoid passing the knot.

If you have to pass the knot, it's pretty simple. You slap on a human and extend the hauling anchor.

Big Wall Forum / Re: NNL Conditions
« on: June 13, 2015, 09:02:53 pm »
We got on it a couple days ago, no fixing. The plan was for a bivi on Timbuktu and either a Thanksgiving or the Summit.

Brought a Quarter Dome bag, two sleeping bags, rain coats, puffys, 4 gallons of water and some food.

The lower pitches went pretty quick with short fixing and a small pig. The pitches are either horizontal traverses, bomber bolt ladders, or awkward wide stuff.

Unfortunately we got turned around a half a pitch from Timbuktu when a 7pm turned the pitch into a waterfall and soaked us to the bone! Whe bailed quickly and there are fixed raps straight to the ground from Timbuktu.

El Cap. Served us up some humble pie! Don't climb over there if the weather is suspect! We rolled the dice and got served hard. Luckily it was pretty warm out.

Big Wall Forum / Re: "Prep" of the wall for big wall speed ascents?
« on: June 03, 2015, 02:37:42 pm »
I'll be fixing in the rain!

Big Wall Forum / Re: "Prep" of the wall for big wall speed ascents?
« on: June 03, 2015, 11:49:48 am »
What I noticed about how Alfrey climbed the pitch below me on the Straw was not how quicly he moved physically. But how quicly he evaluated the next placement, pulled the correct piece from the rack and got it right every time. No fiddling with the rack, no ho-humming about what to do next. Just clip-place-test-go on to the next move. Proffecient leading at a consistent pace. Never wrecklessly fast or careless. Just smooth and solid (although he did put a cam behind a huge loose block that I was scared to even breath on!) His adjustable fifi system is also very efficient.

Cheyne and Skiy on the other hand were moving up the ropes like bats out of hell!!! They'd only have about 15 minutes at the belay to chill before Dave was finished with the next pitch then on the move again.

I was very thankful to see them because after 6 days solo on the wall I was lonely and out of smokes! Skiy and Cheyne crammed on my single ledge and Skiy let me roll as many of his smokes as I could before it was time for them to push on! Which wasn't very many! We jammed the tune box and slammed some whiskey. Those guys thought it was all pretty funny, just super psyched and having a good time.

I think the real hard thing about these pushes is maintaining your energy for a consistent pace on the wall for so many hours...especially when the night block hits. Seems like Chenye always bats clean up in the dark for those guys and he just motors along like an animal, even after jugging his ass off all day long.

The whole show is pretty inspiring. Watching them top out above me in about 3 hours over terrain that I was planning two days for...I was like, "fuck that I'm gunna top this bitch out tommorow! If they can do it in 3 hours I can do it in 12!" Two pitches later I hit Peanut Ledge and could barely sort my Bivi out let alone climb another pitch! Lol

Big Wall Forum / Re: Coffee on the wall
« on: June 02, 2015, 03:36:40 pm »
I use Starbucks Via Packs. Not the best coffee, but not horrible either. Easy, light weight and little waste.

Big Wall Forum / Re: "Prep" of the wall for big wall speed ascents?
« on: June 02, 2015, 03:34:33 pm »
I dunno Munge, I don't really think so.

Those guys take a pretty standard rack up the wall regardless of what they think the fixed gear may or may not be like. I doubt they count on fixed heads and stuff for breaking the records. And I doubt they really place many heads at all regardless. It's all about 'dem beaks.

Pretty cool vid just got put up by Alpinist on Facebook of Dave, Skiy and Cheyne's ZM record.

This team climbed right past me on Shortest Straw and everything in this video shows how they work as a team. They just cruise through stuff...all doing their jobs. The leader marches up at a smooth consistent pace regardless of the grade. I watched Dave climb what we both thought was the crux pitch of SS from the belay above chilling in my ledge. He just cruised through one move at time, never in a rush, but also never stopping to screw around.

I think it has much less to do with what fixed gear there is and how proffecient the climber is with their own gear.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Where to leave car for LT?
« on: May 31, 2015, 09:15:17 am »
Hm, unless something has changed, I've parked there 5 or so times climbing the LT. Been a few years though.

I think there might be some bear boxes there, but not sure. If not the closest are at El Cap bridge.

Go get'er! Yer gunna die!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Where to leave car for LT?
« on: May 29, 2015, 05:39:28 pm »
Right in the Bridalveil Falls parking lot. Make sure you get all the food/garbage out of it, obviously.

Mammut Supersafe 10.2 is as small as I'll take on the wall. And only because it's edge-rated. Same goes for jugging on a dynamic line.

I've jugged 9 mil statics, but generally try to avoid that.

Big Wall Forum / Re: NNL Conditions
« on: May 28, 2015, 10:34:29 pm »
hey Prod!

Haven't done NNL, but just to comment on the heat of the SW Face.

Early Risers definately have the advantage over there. That's why I never climb over there....Lol!

Get as much done as you can early. Pace yourself and take it easy in the peak of the you don't guzzle water, fry yourself, or worse get heat exhaustion.

It cools off once you are a couple days off the deck. I've been sweltering in late June hauling bags to Mammoth, then freezing my ass off in a not-warm-enough puffy on the Shield head wall just a couple days later. Usually once the breeze kicks up on you its fine.

1 gallon is my summer ration, usually just enough. I'm pretty anal about my water up there. I plan what I know I need, pack it myself and mark my bottles. If I see a partner with one of my bottles I make em walk the plank!!!

4 pitches a day sounds like a pretty conservative pace. Maybe get 5 in if they are straight forward. Only you guys will know how you are moving. Set a goal that you think is pretty attainable and go for it. If you fall a little short don't freak out and can probly make up being a pitch or two behind. 

Spend an extra day on Timbuktu just for kicks!

I'm also a little anal about planning wall schedules. Here is my NNL plan....

Day 1 - Drive
Day 2 - Fix to 2
Day 3 - p3-7 Timbuktu Bivi
Day 4 - chill on Timbuktu fix p8 
Day 5 - p9-14 Long Ledge Bivi
Day 6 - p15-17 Thanksgiving Bivi
Day 7 - p19-Summit- Descend
Day 8 - Drive Home

If we couldn't make Timbuktu on the first day after fixing then I'd ditch the rest day and just spend a half day on the ledge. It's good to factor in an extra contingency day on every wall. If things are going smoothly either get down early or take a rest day on the wall!

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