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Messages - Mike.

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1
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet replacement ins and outs?
« on: September 29, 2015, 01:53:54 pm »
"rivets are progression
bolts are protection"

Vice versa, too.

Thanks, Munge. It's great to be back online talking about stuff that doesn't matter  :-)

2
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet replacement ins and outs?
« on: September 28, 2015, 11:44:11 am »
I like...now all we need is our own special word that denotes a hangerless bolt. Maybe..."hangerless bolt"? It's got to be clearer than borrowing a word that already has a precise definition, then having to explain it time and again on web forums. Ah, the lexicon. Don't get me started on "continuous loop"...

Cheers, Mungeclimber.  8-)

3
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet replacement ins and outs?
« on: September 28, 2015, 08:44:31 am »
""Machine heads are bolts"  Machine heads are not bolts."

This is true if you disregard what the thing truthfully is, and consider only how it's used for climbing, but people often don't segregate the two meanings, which causes confusion like in the post I responded to. But never mind my semantics. Get back to the big issues, like whether something is A1 or A1+.

: )

4
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet replacement ins and outs?
« on: September 27, 2015, 06:59:23 pm »
My only issue is that a ľ" splitshaft is a BOLT not a rivet, so replacing a machine head with a bolt is obviously more sustainable but changes the placement from a progression piece to a protection piece.

Let's be clear with the terminology.

A rivet, in a hardware context, is a hollow alloy piece meant to hold sheet metal against something. Rarely is a rivet used in climbing. WEML has them; I've never seen one elsewhere.

In a climbing context, a rivet is a bolt without a hanger. Machine heads are bolts, as are expansion bolts of all dimensions, obviously.

Sure, some of these newer, ridiculous 3/8", giant button head "rivets" could be belayed off, but are not really in the spirit of why/how rivets came to be. That's the gray area, not what is or is not a rivet.

5
Big Wall Forum / Re: WTB: Simple fly for A5 double ledge
« on: April 19, 2012, 09:01:51 am »
what skully said.

That's an "expedition" fly, mw.

6
Big Wall Forum / Re: WTB: big hooks
« on: April 19, 2012, 09:00:09 am »
Hex throw? Hook throw?

 You gotta admit it's pretty believable. : )

7
Big Wall Forum / Re: WTB: big hooks
« on: April 18, 2012, 10:51:45 pm »
"HAD"...that's a tricky word to assign to aid placements, munge. It's amazing what we HAVE to do at times without certain gear. But I get ya.

Tension traverses on solo are some of the trickiest things I've done. (It's to your advantage if you can operate a Grigri lever with your chin.) In that sitch a great variety of hooks is the bomb. I've used a Grappling upside down in a spot you'd laugh at. I've also barely pushed my biggest Pika over a small block that no way would take even a Grappling. XL hook placement only. Maybe neither of those was a HAD-to situation, as your resourcefulness kicks in as hard as it needs to, but with the gear I had on me they felt like I was at least trying hard.

8
Big Wall Forum / Re: WTB: big hooks
« on: April 18, 2012, 10:35:21 pm »
Theron, it's good to have your voice on this site and your products in the community. Thanks for checking in, in between all your other gigs.

I have toted your large hook up a couple of routes but have not used it. I think the design is good. It's light and wide enough to be brought along almost anywhere and be stable in a variety of placements.

One mod I would suggest considering is making the hook and tip more narrow. The BD Grappling works in many situations where the Cliffhanger also does. This overlap is very handy and virtually eliminates a hook from the rack on many routes. Also, narrow tips will work where a wider tip might work a little better, but not vice versa necessarily. The narrow Pika Ibis and Spoonbill hooks have extremely narrow (claw and chisel point) tips which will work in an amazing variety of placements.

The key to a large hook is the throw, of course. As long as you maintain a good throw, you can do a lot with design and have it still be very functional. Pika has addressed this by using plate steel oriented vertically rather than hz, which is why they have the lightest large hooks. Petzl addresses the issue on its Cliffhanger types by forming the arch of the hook into a shallow angle, and if I'm not mistaken, those are some of the strongest hooks available (I don't use them for pro, don't so much care).

Not sure what all this means design- and mfr-wise. Probably nothing since you're tooled up and ready roll. Just a brain dump. Cheers and don't be a stranger!

9
Big Wall Forum / Re: Yosemite in mid/late October?
« on: April 16, 2012, 06:19:27 pm »
Big walls get climbed all year long. There is no "season," just fewer take-a-number lines when it's not idyllic.

10
Big Wall Forum / Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« on: April 16, 2012, 12:04:20 pm »
Right on, dawg. But relaxation and schedule are inherently incongruous in my mind : )

11
Big Wall Forum / Re: Haulbag to beg, borrow, steal, rent, or buy
« on: April 16, 2012, 10:56:11 am »
Bob, I really don't care what sort of repair job happens to the bag. If you wanna dirtbag the thing together, that's OK with me. Hell, I really don't care if you look at it and decide it'll take another trip up as is. It obviously has worked for who-knows-how-many routes in it's current shape or close to it. I replaced it already, so NBD at all.

12
Big Wall Forum / Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« on: April 16, 2012, 10:48:35 am »
Right down to the pitch count per day...holy mackerel, Mark, you do sweat the deets. I'd go nuts if I had to follow some itinerary like that up there. I'm on vacation when I climb, and that sounds like a work schedule to me. But that's a joy of it I reckon, figuring out the formula that works.

13
Big Wall Forum / Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« on: April 14, 2012, 02:32:01 pm »
Partaking in what is available within an accepted timeframe isn't gluttony or hubris, it's simply action.

Good thought.

I never get too locked into any route. I think more about the type of route I want to do, then have a few possibilities. It's all too common for a clusterfuck, rockfall, film crew, animal/road/fire/flood closure, psyche drain, errant chopper, etc. to make a route undesirable. Just rolling up with all the gear and seeing what falls into place is my MO. I know it doesn't make for a very dramatic preamble, but it's not such a mind fuck when you have to change plan. OTOH, that's prolly why some routes have been on my tick list for so long.


14
Big Wall Forum / Re: a5 single over at mp 4 sale
« on: April 12, 2012, 05:17:33 pm »
By "you" I don't mean you, Wm. I mean the dood selling.

15
Big Wall Forum / Re: a5 single over at mp 4 sale
« on: April 12, 2012, 01:21:19 pm »
Thanks, Wm.

Nice try, dood. I paid $375 new for mine and it came with a fly. And a warranty that was honored years later which got me a brand new ledge and fly.

But I know you're broken up about it. Yea, you do apparently "need moola bad."

16
Big Wall Forum / Re: Haulbag to beg, borrow, steal, rent, or buy
« on: April 12, 2012, 10:19:57 am »
Hey, Bob,

I've got a used grade six Metolius bag that won't be seeing any action soon. The bottom hem and stitching are worn to the point of opening up a finger-size hole in the seam. The rest of the bag is in very usable shape; no holes or dangerous-looking wear. You're welcome to it if you want to reinforce the bottom. I say that not as a contingency for borrowing it, but because you don't wanna go up with that seam the way it is. I'm sure it's not a difficult fix, but I haven't had the inclination to do it or have it done. I'm in Huntington Beach CA 92648.

17
Big Wall Forum / Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« on: April 11, 2012, 03:25:56 pm »
Wall season is all year long. It's Kalifornia, doods. All mortals need is a week or two of decent weather.

But by all means...STAY PSYCHED!!!!!

: ]

18
Big Wall Forum / Re: Stuck knot in the lead line?
« on: April 07, 2012, 08:31:34 am »
A device/method that doesn't auto feed will eliminate this problem altogether. Auto feed is great on easy ground, but when it gets real I don't want it at all. A main reason (as stated) being I want the full dynamic action of the rope when I'm on/above marginal gear. For the same reason I don't single biner pieces when I'm soloing. A long, straight rope will put less force on a piece when you fall.

19
Big Wall Forum / WTF, renneberg?
« on: March 29, 2012, 09:21:05 pm »
Welcome to the small fire, J. Nice to rub elbows again with one of the most amped climbers on earth!

20
Big Wall Forum / Re: Securing the rope while Far End Hauling
« on: March 28, 2012, 11:45:36 am »
The biggest takeaway from this discussion IMO is the prudence of building solid, redundant, non-extending anchors, and of using a dynamic haul line. Most if not all haul line damage from a hauler that comes to mind was precipitated by a short "fall." Mark, I like your clean rope-only anchors, but sticking with that ethos eliminates anchor rigging options. I can understand why you make a practice of hauling off one bolt. To my mind that lack of immediate redundancy is the elusive evil in the scenarios we're discussing.

21
Big Wall Forum / Re: Hooks
« on: March 19, 2012, 08:24:44 pm »

22
Big Wall Forum / Re: Hooks
« on: March 19, 2012, 07:09:06 pm »
Garbo, I thought those were available (?) If not I would look for those huge Pika Ibis or Spoonbill hooks.

I gave away a couple of Fish hooks...just too heavy to lug around for how infrequently they got used. They might make decent pro.

23
Big Wall Forum / Re: Hooks
« on: March 19, 2012, 03:01:09 pm »
so the way the photo shows, whats wrong with running the webbing thru the upper hole as well then tying the knot?

I don't think there's anything wrong with it. I don't think it makes a bit of difference. I have at least one rigged that way. Some have to be, e.g. Moses Enterprises' large hook.

24
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: South Face of Washington Column
« on: March 19, 2012, 10:20:50 am »
Sweet ringtail action...and you other cats look pretty relaxed up there, too ; )

25
Big Wall Forum / Re: Hooks
« on: March 19, 2012, 10:17:10 am »
For hooks that have a hz config to the webbing hole, like the big Pika, yes I like #3 cable. For anything else, I'm with mhudon. The webbing often makes the hook more stable, esp on traverses.

SLar, you gotta put a single overhand in the wall side of the loop before you thread it to avoid that pull-through scenario.

26
Big Wall Forum / Re: Securing the rope while Far End Hauling
« on: March 12, 2012, 01:40:08 pm »
I think there's definite value in these kinds of discussions. Potential what-ifs are so great in numbers...you just don't know where/when the next unexpected problem-solve will be needed. I've had one "great idea" or another go bad before my eyes?it's frustrating, but on the other hand lets me exercise my bean to recover.

27
Big Wall Forum / Re: Securing the rope while Far End Hauling
« on: March 12, 2012, 12:06:59 pm »
How exactly to you get it tightly on the rope and then how do you get it off?

You put it on loosely and reverse the haul until it's taught. Then you haul a few inches and it's loose again so it can be easily removed.

Am I over-simplifying this?

28
Big Wall Forum / Re: Securing the rope while Far End Hauling
« on: March 12, 2012, 11:50:48 am »
Got ya.

I'd say NBD since the bag's connection to you will be taught and your primary connection dynamic. Another good reason to have a pocket knife on you...?

Once the rope-grabbing knot is in place below the hauler it's a non-issue. Tensioning that backup will be a simple reverse haul since it doesn't matter if your bag drops down a few inches or a foot.

Extending the concern for the haul bag ending up on you somehow: A similar disaster could happen even without far end hauling, if the hauler, its connections or that one anchor point fails. I often slap a 'draw on the haul line near the hauler, connected to an alternate part of the anchor, especially if the haul is one-bolt-centric.

29
Big Wall Forum / Re: Securing the rope while Far End Hauling
« on: March 12, 2012, 11:10:16 am »
Why are you committed to a toothed cam? Why not rap the lead line from a secure part of the anchor?

Klemheist, prusik, etc., below the toothed cam, tensioned for downward pull backs up the scariness.

I'm not bothered by committing to a toothed cam if there is no practical alternative. Each of my ascenders has one...

30
Big Wall Forum / Re: New Shop!
« on: March 08, 2012, 09:05:36 pm »
Nice! Congrats on all those "additions."

Let the madness flow...we're receptive. : )

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