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Messages - Erik Sloan

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Big Wall Forum / Re: WC weather this weekend?
« on: July 16, 2015, 09:34:05 am »
I think it'll be good. Of course warm in the morning but the breeze usually kicks up good, and it really hasn't been that hot lately.

If you're bringing a tarp because of the chance for afternoon thunderstorms you can use it to set up a nice shade on Dinner because there is a big tree there.


Big Wall Forum / Re: NNL Hauling Strategy?
« on: July 15, 2015, 02:07:27 am »
Awesome Prod! Let me know if I can help in anyway.

Big Wall Forum / Re: NNL Hauling Strategy?
« on: July 11, 2015, 07:15:51 pm »
I've hauled to there a few times(replaced those anchors with my bros) - I would def do two hauls any time that there is an intermediate anchor. Tying the ropes together is just for when you fix to pitch 4 on the Tangerine Trip or nearby routes, and the rope is free hanging the whole way(and it still gets hung up sometimes in the oaks right by the ground, haha).

Some friends just did NNL and said it was great. There are still a few bad rivets on this route - I would bring a bolt kit(you can borrow one, with bolts, from me if you don't have one;).


Thanks Munge!

El Cap is empty so I guess we need to sell a lot more books!

The $30 introductory price was more to hook up all the awesome community members who contributed, and still contribute, to this being the best guidebook out there(and to compete with the old guide).

It is still a good deal at $40, though I would really recommend folks pic up the ebook too. We've added more topos in the this year's ebook(50) than the other book did in three editions over fifteen years!

Thank you to everyone who has contributed to! Keep the beta/corrections/new topos comin!


I'm pretty sure most of the folks here have gotten the new guidebook by now. Thank you for your support.

I also have a limited time deal on the leftover posters from the Kickstarter, so for $40 you can get the print book, 2015 ebook(50 new topos!), and a Nose, Salathe, or Zodiac poster(until the 5th, then $50). Please spread the word about this deal!


Big Wall Forum / Re: Royal Arches and other Big Walls
« on: April 06, 2015, 01:57:14 pm »
drank out of the spring a couple days ago. it is just east of the big flat bivy spot in the woods. going good for now, but yeah, might not last this summer

Big Wall Forum / Re: Royal Arches and other Big Walls
« on: March 31, 2015, 07:44:11 am »
Woot Munge!

Arches is in the new bigwall book! Bivy on that beast! (if you bivy at the spring at the end, and climb at the end of the day which only takes a couple hours, you hardly have to bring anything as it is super warm already). Woot Woot!

Big Wall Forum / Re: NNL Conditions
« on: March 13, 2015, 09:55:02 pm »
Yeah I'd bring a couple bolts on NNL. Josh Thompson and I climbed the route in 2002 and replaced most of the bolts, but I remember we didn't get the crucial one at the top of pitch 11 that you penji off of, and then we missed one on the ramp on pitch 16 that folks have described as pretty desperate for shorter folks. Proally a couple other ones too, here and there. Awesome route. Woot!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Bags on or around Bulging Puke a few years ago?
« on: December 01, 2014, 07:17:51 am »
Munge - the Free line climbs more of Bulging Puke, and only goes right into the Harding Buttress Route for a few pitches. We're working on the free topo and hope to also get a Harding Buttress topo for the 2015 Ebook. I talked to a guy who climbed it though, and he said Bulging Puke was better as your first time up that section of wall.


Big Wall Forum / Re: smoke in the valley
« on: September 13, 2014, 02:29:58 pm »
The smoke has been clearing by 11am or noon. Woot! Woot!

Big Wall Forum / Re: suggestions for 3rd big wall route?
« on: August 06, 2014, 06:05:36 pm »
There are several routes that only require a little nailing, so it would be good for you to get a taste of that stuff. For clean routes Liberty Cap is good, but hot right now.

I'd say do the Prow, goes in the shade in the afternoon and can be windy and cool, you'd get to place your beaks and learn more aid tricks, use your portaledge. There are not a ton of weekend walls!


Big Wall Forum / Re: Dear Bigwall forum members...
« on: July 25, 2014, 06:55:31 am »
Good thought Kevin, unfortunately at the top of the bigwall sport, up until now at least, an attitude of 'do whatever it takes' and 'f--- the next guy has predominated'. Reticent had two sets of deadheads in each placement when I cleaned it for Chris Mac(I was super sick with Hep A at the time) in '97 - and i think that was the 3rd or 4th ascent.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Printing Topos from Yosemite Big Walls
« on: July 24, 2014, 04:22:13 pm »
Glad that got worked out - I didn't realize that the earlier book was only capable of being viewed in spreads, sorry.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Printing Topos from Yosemite Big Walls
« on: July 24, 2014, 12:26:41 pm »
Thanks for your questions guys, sorry it has taken me a few to get back to you:

Very easy to change from two-page viewing to single page viewing. It is in Adobe Acrobat under View>Page Display. Then you can choose either Single Page display or Two Page display.


Big Wall Forum / Yosemite Bigwalls on the move!
« on: July 17, 2014, 11:57:44 am »
Hi Bigwall Enthusiasts,

We stored the 8,000+ lbs of new Yosemite Bigwalls: The Complete Guide books in Roger's basement(up stairs, around the house, and downstairs to the basement). Now he is moving so we have to move 6,000 lbs of books to his new place. As much fun as that sounds, we'd way rather just sell as many as we can to lighten our load......

Order the new Yosemite Bigwalls: The Complete Guide by July 25th and receive my and Tom Evans new map How To See Climbers On El Capitan(a $4.95 value) free!

Order here:

Check out the Map here:

Please Spread The Word(these also make great gifts)!

Wholesale inquiries are also welcome! (requires you to buy in box quantity/ 14 books per box).

Thank you!
Erik Sloan

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet Hangers breaking?
« on: July 16, 2014, 09:34:46 am »
Now we're getting somewhere. Woot!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet Hangers breaking?
« on: July 06, 2014, 09:02:32 am »
Hi Josh,

Finally got time to re-read through all this stuff. Thanks for bringing this up - really, over the years I've talked to so many people about cinch hangers failing that it finally propelled me, in 2005, to dig through an old 'A5 Hammer remake' thread and find Theron's email from his post offering to help with the machining of the hammers, and contact him to start making keyhole hangers. So I'm psyched to clear up any misunderstandings I have about the strength of looped vs. cinch hangers, and any new insights we can find out about keyhole hangers. (I even made a tr about making the keyhole hangers, haha, here: )

Above you mention that Skot Richards test showed that #1 cable failed around its rated 480 lbs, #2 around its rated 1200 lbs(i believe), etc. But then you say that a #2 cinch will definitely hold a hard fall because it did that once or twice in your experience. I'm not trying to pick any bones, just trying to understand things here - while your 3/32s '#2' cinch might have held a hard fall once or twice, I think it's generally accepted that climbing falls can easily generate forces in the 2-4,000 lb range, depending of course on a myriad of factors, so it seems suspect to say that a piece rated to 1200 lbs is good enough to hold falls. My understanding was that the loop hangers benefited from the wire being doubled and were therefore a little stronger - a 3/32s holding around 2000 lbs, but I don't know that for sure.

What I'd be interested in is Skot testing the cinch vs the loop, and see if the loops do fail at a higher number due to the load being dispersed over a bigger area. Is Skot on here?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet Hangers breaking?
« on: June 28, 2014, 02:53:39 pm »
Sorry Mucci,

Very busy week here so haven't had time to look into this more. Will dig up some stuff next week.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet Hangers breaking?
« on: June 24, 2014, 05:19:48 pm »
Wow, that's a trip Josh - I'd swear one party per year, on average, would take a big fall and bail - say a 40 footer when they were only 10 ft above the piece. When asked what happened they would say the rivet hanger broke. I'd ask what kind of rivet hangers they were using and they always said cinch. I'd say 'I can't believe they still sell those things after Kate's fall, when we all learned that they are body weight only'. Kate had a bunch of rope out, and fell a long way on the second and third cinch hangers that broke. I guess we'll never know with different manufacturers. 

That's how I got into making the keyhole hangers with Moses.

Kevin - when Theron pull tested those hangers you posted they did pull straight out in a levering type action. That's why we made the thin, barely scooped ones(funny to hear you guys say you like those the least as from all Theron's testing those were the only ones that didn't produce significant levering on the bolt. The thicker ones you like are good for bolts that got beat up a little when they went in so you can't get the scooped(less bent) ones on.

I hear ya that the metal is thin Munge, on the scooped ones, but it has to be to fit over the rock. They broke at over 3,000 lbs If I recall.

Got my boy all week so not much time to write back. Fun to hear how it goes though - like a bunch of first time cavers, hahaha. We gotta figure this stuff out and start doing it right(also/mostly in regards hardware that is fixed in the rock)!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivet Hangers breaking?
« on: June 23, 2014, 02:58:40 pm »
Yo Josh,

Great post!

I can't name examples of other cinch hangers breaking(I've heard of many)right now, though I"m sure some will come to me soon, but I am the reason for that statement in the book.

Kate's fall brought a lot of questions about cinch rivet hangers, and it is my, possibly erroneous, understanding that cinch hangers are less strong because when you fall on them you don't load a loop or wire - you just load one side of the wire. I thought the explanation went that when a traditional 'loop' rivet hanger is loaded the cable is doubled and loaded evenly, essentially increasing the strength of the cable, and when you fall on a 'cinch' hanger the cable is loaded at a smaller spot(The cinch), which compromised the cable(I swear it was explained that the loop doubled the strength of the cable, or allowed it to hold to spec, while the cinch halved the strength, but not sure if I'm getting that right right now).

Anyway, that's how the keyhole hangers came about, because many folks fell when cinch rivet hangers broke.

You're dead wrong about the super bent keyhole hangers Kev - you want the ones with the least amount of bend, because in a hard fall they're going to deform and if there is just a gentle scoop to the hanger it will just straighten out, prying the bolt less than if there is a more pronounced angle, which will deform and really lever the bolt/rivet out of the hole. It's just hard to get them over the rivets, owing to inconsistencies in the rock, so you have to have a variety of types.

I'll dig around and see if I can find more info.


Big Wall Forum / Re: Cheap used Yosemite Bigwalls The Complete Guide
« on: June 21, 2014, 03:10:53 pm »
You have 30 days to claim your stuff - I just didn't know that a place existed, didn't find out that it was lost until late in the 30 days, etc. LIve and Learn!

Big Wall Forum / Cheap used Yosemite Bigwalls The Complete Guide
« on: June 20, 2014, 09:35:59 am »
One of our boxes arrived at the USPS shipping center open, so the books got thrown in the lost and found. I wasn't aware then of the process of how to retrieve our stuff. Some guy bought a big box of books in an auction and is selling our book for $10:

Big Wall Forum / Re: Ethical grey area in chiseling heads?
« on: June 17, 2014, 10:57:19 pm »
Good post Kev,

Obviously, everyone who climbs a route tries to follow the line and topo they are given, and that they chose to climb. 2nd ascents are notorious for changing topos, no doubt for many reasons. At the end of the day - I think we have to just be grateful for the experience we got to have on the mountain, and surrender any ownership about what the experience will be like in the future because we never know what new technology, or super-human feats will change the climbing landscape in front of us!

It's interesting how many FAist talk later about a particular section or belay being less than an ideal situation but that they just did the best they could in the moment - and left it up to future parties to figure out how to make it happen for them. I think we can do a better job of encouraging people to develop their skills before attempting routes by revisiting our rating system. These online forums help tremendously too!

Ryan Baker, Jon Griffin and I recently did the second ascent of Richie and my's route on Camp 4 wall, Good Ole Boy(named for the big Elf himself). The updated topo is on the website now. On the last pitch we brought some bolts to drill a free variation to the left of the pitch that Richie originally led, but even we came up short and the pitch could use one or two more bolts. You try your best and enjoy the experience(I put on the topo 'feel free to add bolts' to that last pitch, though Jon led it like Boss).

Erik Sloan

Big Wall Forum / Re: The New Yosemite Bigwall Guide
« on: June 07, 2014, 08:45:12 am »

More for beginners, but I"ve started a couple pages where I post the best bigwall gear. Personal Gear Guide and Bigwall Equipment Guide are now on the lefthand menu on


Big Wall Forum / Re: The New Yosemite Bigwall Guide
« on: June 07, 2014, 08:44:04 am »
Thanks for the feedback John. Yeah, I know that about the Psycho Killer thing - guess I messed up(for some reason I think the topo with the variation drawn on had that written on it, but heck that could have been written in by Donny Reid for all we know). Keep it comin!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Blue Collar V A3 - Hourglass Wall - Yosemite
« on: May 30, 2014, 03:04:58 pm »

Big Wall Forum / Re: Andy Kirkpatrick's Kickstarter Project
« on: May 30, 2014, 02:45:47 pm »
This looks super cool. Andy is a great guy and super fun writer.

Big Wall Forum / Re: The New Yosemite Bigwall Guide
« on: May 13, 2014, 09:32:22 pm »
Thank you guys!

We did have some trouble with Internet Explorer not working with our shopping cart, as Wes noted. We think we have this fixed now. Please post up if anyone has anymore difficulties.

Go for it!

Big Wall Forum / Re: The New Yosemite Bigwall Guide
« on: May 05, 2014, 01:52:08 pm »
Weird Mark - Sorry you haven't received your book yet.

We shipped 350 at the same time from the same post office. Offset got his in Seattle 3-4 days later, folks in California still haven't gotten theirs. Ouch - the limitations of Media Mail.

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