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Messages - JC5123

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1
Big Wall Forum / International Climbers Festival
« on: June 06, 2013, 02:53:16 pm »
Lander, WY
July 10-14th.

Anyone planning to go?

2
Big Wall Forum / Re: Half a Man But All The Wall.
« on: May 06, 2013, 08:08:33 am »
I had my vasectomy done about 5 years ago. NBD. I was back to normal activity (including sex) within a week. I would recommend a jock strap if you are in a harness for the first couple weeks. 

3
Big Wall Forum / Re: wall Shoes
« on: May 03, 2013, 08:44:14 am »
http://www.mountaingear.com/webstore/Footwear/Shoes/Asolo/Distance-Approach-Shoe-Men-s/_/R-209906.htm

I'm looking at a pair of these. Anyone have any experience with them?

4
Big Wall Forum / Re: Solar Chargers for the wall..
« on: May 01, 2013, 11:58:51 am »
Seems everyone is having a hard time with the Solio. I found this to be the case in all the reviews also. I bought one anyway. So far I love the thing. One thing that I did notice in the reviews is that most people just pull it out of the box and toss it out in the sun. This is why people are having problems with the unit. You have to charge the unit via actual electricity FIRST before you ever use it, to initialize the battery. Otherwise, yea, you're never going to get a good charge on it.

If it has a full charge it will charge my phone completely. However I usually have my phone off while climbing. Only turn it on a couple times a day to check messages. (I go to get away from things like phones) But I digress. The only thing I really need to keep charged on the wall is my Ipod, and the solio is perfect. I tied a cord through the center hole and just hang it at the belay. twist it around a little so that it gets the best sun, and at the end of the day, plug in the Ipod, and I have a full charge the next morning.

5
Big Wall Forum / Re: What stopped you?
« on: April 29, 2013, 11:45:58 am »
terrifying.

Funny thing was, I was scared out of my mind for the entire pitch. This happened at the belay. Once it was over my Partner was sure I was going to be catatonic. The opposite effect happened. I was so thrilled, that I wasn't afraid of anything for the rest of the climb.

6
Big Wall Forum / Re: What stopped you?
« on: April 29, 2013, 10:03:38 am »
My scariest lead fall ever, also my first legit wall. Got to a "thank god" ledge. Damn thing turned out to be a big boulder. As I pasted my feet and levered up it rolled out on top of me. My last piece was a #3 hex placed sideways. My partner, seeing what was happening threw himself off his belay ledge to take up the slack. Sucked me out from under the boulder just as I was about to get creamed. I remember being upside down between the boulder and the wall. Still clinging to the boulder, I felt a tug. Next thing I knew we were both dangling, watching this thing (The size of a small refrigerator) go bouncing down the wall and explode on the ledge where we had camped the night before. Fun stuff!!

7
Big Wall Forum / Re: What stopped you?
« on: April 24, 2013, 03:39:02 pm »
Was on belay when my buddy took a 20 footer ripping 3 cams and finally being stopped by a #6 BD Stopper. Had he ripped that, I was the next link in the chain. Fortunately I was solid into a huge chockstone. But that was a pretty nasty one, since there wasn't much slack in the system.

8
Big Wall Forum / Re: Black Diamond Big Wall Gloves
« on: August 16, 2012, 08:37:59 am »
I use Ironclad framers gloves. Your ring, and pinkie fingers are completely covered, but your middle index, and thumb are exposed. They are thin, but tough, and have subtle palm padding.

9
Big Wall Forum / Re: Light Duty? Have you ever...
« on: August 10, 2012, 11:20:21 am »
Pack horses into Graves Lake to climb Mt. Hooker 2 years ago, doing the same thing next summer. No way I'm packing 500 lbs of gear for 6 people in 13 miles at 10,000ft!

10
Big Wall Forum / Re: Favorite/easiest bigawall in CO?
« on: July 12, 2012, 11:52:18 am »
Years ago, when I lived in Copper Mt. We had alot of fun doing "practice" wall climbing on Monitor Rock outside of Leadville. We would just pick a line and go. Word of caution though. Clean gear only, this is a sport area, also the rock is extremely abrasive and low angle, so I suggest the second carry a light pack instead of hauling.

We developed many skills there and had tons of fun. Enjoy!

11
Non Climbing (if you must) / Re: Black Diamond Went Public
« on: April 13, 2012, 03:09:01 pm »
I was in SLC ice climbing in Feb, and ran into one of the BD design managers. I asked him about the merger.

The response I got was very interesting. The original owners of BD were all getting older and wanted to cash out. BD didn't have enough cash on hand to do this. So they sold the company CHEAP to Clarus in order to raise just enough to pay out the retirees. They then immediately rearranged their finances and bought the company back. So BD is back to being privately owned, and back to doing what they do best.

12
Big Wall Forum / Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« on: April 13, 2012, 09:48:07 am »
Fortunately, we packed enough rum, it wasn't TOO bad. =)

13
Big Wall Forum / Re: WALL SEASON IS HERE!!!!!!
« on: April 12, 2012, 11:03:15 am »
Been out doing some short aid line, brushing up on technique, and breaking in a new rat. Just gotta finish up making a new ledge frame, and haul sack, then I'll be good to go. Headed back up to Mt. Hooker in August to hopefully finish our epic failure 2 years ago. (Broken ankle on P8, complete with full retreat and 2 day wait for the horses to get back to us before getting out)


14
Big Wall Forum / Re: I need a Silent Partner
« on: April 09, 2012, 11:59:38 am »
Been running 10.2 for years. I think it's a good tradeoff. I save a little weight, and it runs the SP well. But definitely more durable for wall use. Now for ice and alpine, I'm running a 9.3, which is as thin as I go.

15
Big Wall Forum / Re: I need a Silent Partner
« on: April 04, 2012, 04:02:31 pm »
I'm pretty quiet, I don't say much...  and I don't cost $250   :)

scott

But do you bring your own beer? :-)

16
Big Wall Forum / Re: Who's gonna rewire my Beaks?
« on: April 04, 2012, 03:58:28 pm »

I use shrink tubing around the crimp, but you can still get those stray wires.  A fingernail clipper is what i use to tidy up the sticklers.



Good idea! I never thought that nail clippers would be up to the task, but you're only talking about what, 1/64" wire?

17
Big Wall Forum / Re: Harness down sliding
« on: March 16, 2012, 08:26:33 am »
I have the same problem. I solved it the same way I solved the problem when I was a carpenter wearing tool bags all day. Suspenders. The big wide ones you get at the hardware store. They work great, are comfotable under a chest harness, and they are cheap.

18
Big Wall Forum / Re: Portaledge on Ebay. Good deal?
« on: February 22, 2012, 08:00:43 am »
For whatever reason my work computer won't allow me to post the pics that I have. Gotta wait till I get my laptop back from I.T.

19
Big Wall Forum / Re: Portaledge on Ebay. Good deal?
« on: February 21, 2012, 09:44:57 am »
I build my ledge from scratch. At the time I had no funding and built it for about $100 in materials. Granted if you count the time for R&D and production I probably have close to $500 in it, but my time is free to me and it made a good winter project. My ledge is still going strong, though I have recently upgraded the frame. I also have purchased a BD single fly and it fits very nicely. I have always contemplated buying a ledge, but mine only sees about 10-12 nights a year. Usually in places where I can flag it so I'm only setting it up once. I just can't justify the expense for new, with so many other priorities on the wish list. (If it ain't broke, don't fix it mentality)

I'll just say that for now, I'm happy with my set up and plan to stick with it.

20
Big Wall Forum / Re: Winter Walls...anybody do'in em?
« on: February 17, 2012, 09:32:33 am »
That's the one cobbledik. We did the left side. Plan on going back in there when it starts warming up. We spotted some really cool potential routes.

21
Big Wall Forum / Re: Winter Walls...anybody do'in em?
« on: February 17, 2012, 08:16:28 am »
Finally got out last weekend. We did a 5 pitch "mini" wall close to home. Total vertical was maybe 600' We were in the Power Tower Wall area of Fremont Canyon. Of course we picked the worst weekend of the winter so far. With temps in the teens, a cold north wind and intermittent snow we suffered pretty bad. But it was worth it to get on rock again. Leaving the 24th for Salt Lake and probably the last ice climbing of the season. Damn kayaking has been getting in the way of my walling!

23
Big Wall Forum / Re: 1/2 webbing in colors other than blue?
« on: November 02, 2011, 08:12:00 am »
I have noticed that in the last few years. Color selection seems to really suck. Mostly earth tones now. I understand low impact, but it makes it harder to color code gear. Also, my theory on outdoor gear is that bright colors are a good idea. I want to be highly visible when my ass is in trouble.

Just my .02

24
Big Wall Forum / Re: Ascenders
« on: October 28, 2011, 10:51:38 am »
Yea, I started to understand the design intentions and the advantages after jugging a couple of pitches with the BDs. I think most of my opposition comes from my intimate familiarity with the Petzls. I definitely wouldn't steer anyone away from BD. It's just all preference on my part.

25
Big Wall Forum / Re: Ascenders
« on: October 28, 2011, 07:48:48 am »
A friend of mine got a pair of the BD Ascenders. So I got a chance to try them out. Here are the few complaints I had about them:

The hinge motion seems to make things a little more complicated, they felt kinda slippery at first. That feeling never really went away.

The cam does not have and holes like my Petzls to allow mud/water/ice to pass through the cam.

Lastly, the cam is meant to be opened with your index finger rather than your thumb. The problem is that you cannot do this with gloves on no matter how small your digits are. While it is possible to operate with your thumb, it was very awkward.

I have used Petzls for all of my climbing career, so I will admit to being biased. These were just the things that soured me to BD Ascenders.

26
Big Wall Forum / Counterfeit Petzl Products
« on: October 18, 2011, 08:00:56 am »
Came across this on another site, It's a release from Petzl's site. The date on the post was 2/ 2011 but looks like it's still relevant info.
Scary stuff, check your gear!!!!

http://www.petzl.com/us/pro/news/2011/02/12/warning-regarding-presence-counterfeit-versions-petzl-products

27
Big Wall Forum / Re: Racking for efficiency
« on: October 12, 2011, 11:29:11 am »
LOL, a B.A.T. tent! You over estimate my gear!!! ;)

I remember my first couple walls using army gear duffels that we bolted straps to and duct taped the hell out of. Once I could afford the right gear it almost seemed like cheating. Of course our first few walls we found ourselves in WAY over our heads more often than not.

Used a North Face/ A5 double sling for years. Lovin my Yates these days.



28
Big Wall Forum / Re: Racking for efficiency
« on: October 12, 2011, 07:43:15 am »
Not really as bad as it sounds. I have a set of stoppers that has probably been replaced 3 times. I bought the set 15 years ago. Over the years from getting them stuck and leaving them for rappels and such, I have replaced all but a couple of them 2-3 times over.

My hexes, I just replace the cord every couple years. Things like that.

29
Big Wall Forum / Re: Racking for efficiency
« on: October 11, 2011, 04:14:50 pm »
Well, I don't have a wife, so that isn't a concern. And my girlfriend is a climber/kayaker as well.

 I firmly believe in your assessment of wires. I love the things. Especially for ice and alpine. Much lighter, and I don't ever have to worry about gate lash. 

30
Big Wall Forum / Re: Racking for efficiency
« on: October 11, 2011, 11:16:25 am »
Ah, Duh. Yes I do still free climb with older hardware. Mostly because I haven't had reason to replace much of it. Frequent inspections, and replacement of stuff that I don't trust anymore. But otherwise I'm still using some gear that is approaching a decade old.

Not to say I'm not open to new ideas and new equipment, just prefer evolution over revolution.

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