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Messages - kindredlion

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Big Wall Forum / Re: El Cap Routes
« on: January 27, 2011, 11:51:14 am »

One From Lost in America..

Good Golden Granite..

More to come if desired..

Big Wall Forum / Re: El Cap Routes
« on: January 26, 2011, 06:25:32 pm »
Lost in America has only 1 Pitch of A4..

its more modern A3.. ;)

THere is a mandatory 5.10b R Free pitch tho.. that one is an equal headtrip..

leading off the anchor with a mini pin rack, hammer, and a couple aliens..    in free shoes. . :)P


i'll be back soon!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Andy Kirkpatrick's Zodiac climb
« on: July 30, 2010, 03:26:10 pm »
Really good.. 

i like the cathedral in his head bit:

"I knew my mind had space free of tiredness in which I could operate, and I visualized a citadel within it, an impregnable fortress in which my core function was safe from sleep - everything else; memory, desire and dreams was consumed by the darkness. This skeleton crew of still firing neurons got moving and down I went, got my stuff and jugged back, flaking out on the ledge as soon as I got there, my legs in my rope bag, a bothy bag my only insulation, so tired I slept still attached my my jumars to the rope."

Thanks for the link..

I read some others - The one called short fix is fun as well..

take air,

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rehab sucks (OT)
« on: June 21, 2010, 11:20:35 am »

awesome Brah!!

Where and what route?

Was the approach/descent the crux?  or the climbing?

I'm imagining most of what is most worked for you is the quad and calf of the recovering leg, am I visualizing correctly?

Dude, So Stoked your out and off the sticks...  I cant wait to be on the trail behind you asking you to slow down and wait up for me...

Thanks for the sparkle in my eye...  you gave me that .

first we survive....
then we thrive....

take air,

Big Wall Forum / Re: swivel me pigs?
« on: June 21, 2010, 11:10:57 am »
Hey Mucci!

The 10mm static is exactly what I'm talking about.. Rigged just like you say..

as far as each pig getting a docking tether or adj daisy, I agree, but more for convenience and taming the piiiigs  iiiiiin  spaaaaaace than for the actual docking/lower outs...  I prefer to put the docking tether (just the one)  at the main haul Big F'in Locker tied via Muntner/Mule as you describe..    (I also use  a longer than needed haul line, with the 15-30ft of extra tail as said docking tether/lower out line - depends how long your haul and lead line are at the time of said wall, considering mileage/choppage/stretch/coreshot from prior haul knots etc...)  (I really like 80m lead lines and 85-87m haul lines)

As far as the Swivel on the Protrax at the belay - I think that is overkill, adds extra inches to the system where those inches are better converted to haul mileage..  If your anchor is laid out propa' the swivel on the pigs should negate twistage and CF'age (did I just type that?) at the anchor point..  Keep the anchor simple... You don't want the protrax spinning anyways, then your rope management will be more of a puzzler/ropes course/giardian knot game, than a straight forward act of manual labor..  Save the brain work for the lead, and manual labor for downtime like hauling ;)

whatever you do,
keep smiling :)  
we are so blessed to have the big stone allow us the honor of inching and scratching our way up and along her forgiving and sometimes unforgiving ramparts ..
mastery or no mastery - we must remain humbled ...

too blessed to be stressed,

Big Wall Forum / Re: swivel me pigs?
« on: June 20, 2010, 10:29:18 pm »
I second mhudon - worth the weight for convenience, and CF management..  (any amount of CF avoidance as long as its stream lined and not time consuming is worth it in my book)

The Rigging is straight forward for one pig, and complexity varies for more than one.. 

For two or three pigs, it depends if you want your pigs side by side (solo or with partner and double ledge) This is straight forward and can be done a myriad of uncomplex ways.

Or if you want your pigs up and down (team of any number involving two ledges in two story condo mode - where each pig will sit next to its ledge dweller and ledge for less tagging while in ledges) This should be planned out before blasting off....  You can use a length of climbing line with an eight (or nine) on a bite clipped to the Big F'in Locker (clipped to the swivel) this line can be used to tie the lower ledge and lower pig(s) to sit next to one another - and [key here] fall UNDER the top pig..  if you are rigging this way - its best to have all the lower level stuff be fully a foot or more under the bottom of the higher level pigs to keep your load from being as wide as a bus, and more long and streamlined like a train..  [read:junkshow]

Would love to elaborate more with better english and less parentheses to paint the mental picture a prettier shade of reality...  Maybe I will when I'm not in a food coma from eating so much ice cream ;)p
(gotta get me calcium to heal me bones yarg!)

take air,

Big Wall Forum / Re: "Yo" to Mark Hudon, new BW.c member
« on: June 17, 2010, 12:22:06 am »
Way to Go brah!!

I saw you danglin next to those 3600' fixed lines..  up near the porch swing.. 

way to send in style!

welcome back!


Big Wall Forum / Re: Deep Water
« on: June 17, 2010, 12:16:06 am »
thanks skully - its been refreshing to write...

i heard you name mentioned at the bridge - not sure who was uttering or muttering but i think you were up on the big stone am i right? mini tr? what were u up to?

btw - just watched Deep Water - deep breath - gripping!

aside from the obvious depth of the subject matter:
all i can say is Bernard Moitessier holy crap!  "feck it I dont need this - im just gonna keep sailing"  he's my new pop star!  im gonna read his book "the long way"  he was called the "vagabond of the south seas" umm talk about professional dirt bags - he was a trailblazer!

Thanks for the tip Mike !  very very good to watch..

going to watch "mongol' now before sleeps..nothing quite like world domination as motivational material..

take air,

Big Wall Forum / Re: Big wall welcome to Pate
« on: June 17, 2010, 12:06:00 am »
welcome Pate
its a good crew here
dont hurt us

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rehab sucks (OT)
« on: June 17, 2010, 12:03:35 am »

Thanks for the pat on the back bro!  I respect your words - knowing that your not just shooting from the hip ;)

How is your soft machine doing with the aftermarket parts?  upgrade? or refurb?

I am stoked that you dusted off your gear and are showing us how its done up there...

Looking forward crawling out of the caves and joining you with the rest of the monkeys out there..  all natural and bionically enhanced alike..

not quite the 6 mil man yet - but the night is young..

how long was your recovery from the hip thing?  did you get the convertible one?


Big Wall Forum / Re: Welcome aboard, Wade Icey
« on: June 16, 2010, 06:04:23 pm »
has been..

now is..

welcome back ol' timer!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Deep Water
« on: June 16, 2010, 06:02:01 pm »
Thanks Mike!

I was looking for you at the bridge the other day - hoping we could keep our jaws off the ground for a minute..

I am still on an uphill battle..  a different sort of suffering if you will..  not quite willing to resort to pins and nailing hardware yet..

thanks for the kudos - its been nice to write..

thanks for being my sounding board ..

see you in the now..


Big Wall Forum / Re: Rehab sucks (OT)
« on: June 16, 2010, 04:48:00 pm »
all righty then....

Alik!  Nice to hear aboot the air being sweeter !!  One of these days I'll come a trundlin' with ya ;)

So I haven't posted up aboot the injury in aboot a whole month..  (sorry aboot the canuckian accent - i guess it comes aboot in good company ;)

I haven't wanted to post anything but good news...  so the silence has ensued..

I went in to see the sawbones with a freshie xray (btw alik that costs aboot $600 a pop down here in the land of the free)..

doc took one look at my bones in the picture - from across the room - and said "well it doesn't look like that bone is healing at all now does it?"

I was standing up smiling and talking about what I've got planned post recovery - glint in the eye a bit shaped like iconic half dome - peg leg ready to be sawed off like the angles rusting in my nailed shut closet.. 

One short phrase uttered from his lips sits me down into a frown  ..  lookin through the watery glean in my eye at my poor and broken little leg..  my chest and dreams deflated like the wind from a whoopie cushion..

''huh? what do you mean by that?" a hopeful question coming from a place i pray is not that place...  hoping to asswage the obvious ... "your not saying what i know your saying"  hoping to hear anything but the truth.. 

bedside manner traded long ago for a creepy toolbox of hardware store brackets, bolts, and nuts less advanced than russian cams, and a pot of gold to swing a hammer he replies " if we dont see any visible bone growth in say 30 days, we really should intervene"

"by that you mean?" - again doubting the obvious - or willingness to suffer the knowledge like i've got the next lead of thin, scary, and strung out - and every lead thereafter - cause i'm crutchin solo..

"well we rebreak the leg - 2 inch incision here (points to skinny but swollen ankle) slide in some hardware (from ACE im sure) cut a couple glory holes for some screws (from some garage sale bits bottle no doubt - not sure he used the words 'glory holes' but its better than the gory holes i imagine) here, here, and here..  you keep the plate on until the bones have grown - then we remove it.  the whole process is 'terribly uncomfortable' and the plate - since you have such skinny legs (blush) will be painful and uncomfortable while its on.."


i try to think of that cute cartoon video of Paula Abduls - with the animated cat - two steps forward - two steps back - but i just cant find the humour in it today..

fast fwd to now...

I have been trying every type of alternative therapy i can learn about..  acupuncture almost daily, eating bone soup with ox knees in it, drinking comfrey tea, ultra sound, qi kong, reiki, calcium at 800% DV, vit D, magnesium, cod liver oil, meditation and intention.. 

I feel like maybe im making progress - i think i feel the calcium deposit on the break site - i even try to put some weight on my leg to push the bones together..

I am swimming at the pool - with a tow buoy in my legs - so its just my arms working..  good workout - nice to have endorphins flowing... 

i sweat in the steam and sauna and dip in the pool - trying to increase circulation of blood and of spirits..

what I am working with is on a cellular level - I can plant a seed in good soil, give it good sun exposure, the right fertilizers and nutrients, water regularily - but there is only so much i can do - i must let the seed grow - it does that on its own.. 

I feel I have made the perfect garden for bone growth - I can only influence so much..

So I'll go for another xray in a week or 2..  im gonna head to New Mexi for some R&R for a week - bringing my Uke for medicine..

I did take a day trip to the bridge at the center of the universe last week - crutched into the base of the nose even..  Smelled the smells - felt the sunshine - heard the birds and the monkeys calling around me..  whole body healing that was..  it was nice to run into BriGuy and Nanook and Tom..  Saw MHudon on the last pitch of TRITE through the looking glass..  Smiles from ear to ear split my face..  saw the magic happening and was happy that it does whether im there or not..  its not going anywhere ...

so - again - my spirits are lifted, along with my leg..

no expectations to let me down anymore - to quote the maritime philosopher of his days "I am's what I am's"
..gonna go eats me spinach cuz i hear thats good for bones..

Thanks for letting me rant and rite...  looking forward to untying my lines and sailing the "Sea of Dreams" ..once I get back my sea legs of course ;0)


Big Wall Forum / Re: Deep Water
« on: June 16, 2010, 02:33:33 pm »
stoked to watch this later tonight!

I have always felt the similarities between single handed ocean crossings and solo wall climbing..

commitment - dependence on gear - only control you have is of your sanctity of mind, mastery of your gear and techniques, faith in quality of same..  you are at the mercy of mother nature entirely - you can only plan so much for a storm you cant see coming..  

a true test of mettle ..

Bill Tilman  - a very humble writer of adventures that must have humbled him ..

one day ..  one bold day..   push out from dock - untie the lines and see nothing but sea fore, aft, starboard, port.. nothing to see but sea..  chilling..

stoked to watch that tonight - thanks again!

Big Wall Forum / Re: rapping the lead cord on solo
« on: June 16, 2010, 02:15:30 pm »
Done it a couple times in the right situation...  can have merits but..

FWIW its not much of a saver - in that if you are going to be re-clipping the gear as you pass it, you are doing a little double duty..  And if your not re-clipping and are re-racking, then now you have to jug with that gear or clip it to the load (both taking some time or energy - as little as it seems)..  now when you look up, you have more of a free hanging (read energy consuming) line to jug.. 

I find that jugging a line with gear in it keeps you closer to the wall (in some cases of course - as is with every unique scenario), as well as keeps the bouncing of the line to a minimum..   (being close the wall is less energy again - and the bouncing can save the wires on those precious offset nuts, and those manky heads you clipped )

of course as described in others posts, this is only feasible when the pitch is mostly in a straight up and down line, and not overly vertical (read overhanging)..

Is this based in a concern about rapping on the hauler?

if so think about this. 

if you are going to be rapping on the hauler for most other pitches considering the terrain, and will only be pulling this arrow from the quiver when it applies, then that means you are going to be changing around your tried and tested process (read routine) for one that of course 'works', but is out of routine.. 

where I'm going with this is that there are merits to the simple act of repetition..  ever notice how the systems require a little more triple checking on the first few pitches of a new wall project?  and later on they seem rather second nature and intuitive?  that is working for you in many ways..  (comfort in process, less mental cycles, less checking and re-checking, less evaluating if this is the right pitch - all of these mini losses amount to down time in my book)  KISS ..   

By rapping your haul line:  you want to get off of it asap - you know its 'good' - you only carry down your cleaning/jugging gear, once you kiss the piggy goodbye, you got nothing to think about but gettin' back up to meet her at the top..

i say keep the thinking for the sharp end
use the rap/clean/jug as your vacation
use the haul as your warmup for the next lead..

i speak for myself here - and every situation is different - i find comfort in the routine of the labour - keeping the spice for the fun stuff on lead..

whatever you do - keep smiling :D

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rehab sucks (OT)
« on: May 20, 2010, 01:35:04 pm »
Alik... Alik from Canada?  birks in winter wearin alik?

we hung out a bit last winter with Rich near Chongo's Office - with Welson (philipino monkey)

Sorry to hear about your injury - knowing you - you'll figure it out...

Time is something we all have plenty of, and like you said, there is a ton of fun to be had in the mountains..  even if its getting stoked on others tearing it up!

you'll be pushing your lines up higher soon enough..  now enjoy a little ledge time ;)

Take Air Brah!


are you around?  im in the bay area if you want to chill..

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rehab sucks (OT)
« on: May 13, 2010, 05:09:50 pm »

Sorry to hear about your wrist!  I know the feeling - my last injury was a dislocated hand ..  my wrist was badly broken and my hand was literally OFF of my wrist. The guys at the ER called me 'the guy with the 'S' shaped arm' ..

It was a long recovery before I got my strength back to crank and wail on pins..  But its been 2years since that injury, and I have climbed the captain a couple times since then with no worries...    I wail on Pins and Clean 'em up quick just like the big kids do!

your too blessed to be stressed brah!

just think el cap aint going nowhere - and now you've got plenty of time to focus..   

train, read, swim once you can, 8 minute abs, yoga, figuring out how to clean your bottom with your wrong hand..

hey is it your primary hand? or the other one?

if its the other one - sheesh - you got it made in the shade brah!  you can write, type, use a knife to cut , tie a shoe (with some new skillz) ..

I had no use of my right hand for close to 6mths before I was heavy in to the PT..

Right now - I can walk on my hands, do push ups, hang from either arm with no stress.. Crankin on crimps, and jamming cracks, nothing holds me back!

Like Lam, and Mike say - its all in the heart!

I was having this discussion with a surfing buddy, and we realized that we have both been high on the same bag of 'stoke' that everyone has access to.

it seems that those who practice activities that are 'true' seem to be fueled by something almost visible to the nekkid eye.. you can see it in the eyes.. or the smile.. or the cheeks even..  its this energy - this excitement- this psych - its what we call "Stoke"    you see it in anyone who has the fortune of living truly in the moment..  Climbers have good access to quantities unbound...  Surfers talk about it all the time..  Hell you can have the stoke for a game of Golf, or sewing a dress - it dont matter..  its all the same..   

we use it to get out of the porta ledge on day 7 with claw hands - we insert the hammer - bite off the busted cuticles through a genuine stoke filled smile..  argh! 
we use it to duck dive under a giant wave to get to the other side to paddle like a mofo to get hammered to paddle to get hammered - all for that 3 second ride - toothy stoke filled grinning all the while!

Im no John Long or James Lucas - but we all dipping from the same sac o' stoke - so using my chopped up stoke filled words - i make my expression of a simple truth..

That Stoke in You is strong..  Dont deny it.

the stoke in you is your true you..    feed it!!a


Big Wall Forum / Re: Rehab sucks (OT)
« on: May 11, 2010, 12:28:47 pm »

The stoke in me is strong..

Lam - Nice!  Good Job Brah!  baby steps right?  that is one HUGE step!  your on the sharp end - that means so much..  independence - strength - mastery - vision - determination - awareness - intention - manifestation

dude im sure you're more proud than you let on..  i know im proud of you!

I have one leg that looks like its came from an archealogical dig..  the other is beefed up better that its ever been !

I dug out the TENS device for Electro Stimulating my quads..  man its tuff..  my muscle is fully atrophied and it aches..  the excerise is helping..

I have a medicine ball, I toss it up and down and all around - I get any monkey I can get to play catch with me - its a workout tossing a 10 pound ball around for an hour..

I now have a Removable Boot - the bone is still very broken - but I can wash and scratch off all my extra layers of skin - i think after 2 weeks I am down to the base layers..

I bought a Brand New Bicycle and a used Trainer..  I set it up - but I cant Use it yet..  I look at it like a donkey looks at a carrot on a fishing line..  like its just two steps away..

Not sure why - but i got a 29'er - i plan on it being my All 'round bike..  town, hills, trails, long rides - hopein' to cover a couple hundred miles before long..  (hopeing to get on it for now)

I've had my ups and my downs..  mostly ups - but some certain downs..   
I am still meditating and am going for a 4 day retreat that will be in silence the whole time..  looking forward to that..
I am starting to try to do more yoga - its hard to do anything standing on one leg - so mostly I stay on the floor..

Hoping to head up to the Valley one of these weekends - or early June - gonna chill in the meadows and gawk ..  gum it up with some crew - and feel closer to being part of it all..

Thanks for your updates!  I love to hear your out crankin!  5.9 sport seems like VII WI15 A4 5.13b for me right now - so way to send brah!!

I'll be slummin it on the wall by fall... might be looking for some help luggin loads to the base and off the top - maybe we can have a gimpy junk show up the PO or sumthing ;)


I am

Big Wall Forum / Re: Metolius Gizmo Belay Ledge
« on: April 08, 2010, 06:34:30 pm »
single push 3 man..  single ledge - no prob.

rarely ever 3 peeps in the ledge - unless there's some sort of circle jerk...

but really !?! this ledge seems too little to be of good use..   its also almost 6lbs.

(although for photo work - i can not comment - why not wooden stiffy?)

fish one night stand - cheaper..

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rehab sucks (OT)
« on: April 08, 2010, 06:22:42 pm »
Hey thanks a lot BEMHO!

I have been wondering how you've been doing Lambone?    Any long approaches yet?  like to the end of the street?

I have been feeling better and better - with less pain - and more mobility (i now have a cast below my knee - so I can bend it) I am able to do more..

I have been taking 'walks' up the street to the park - kids play there - and its great to watch them and make jokes with them.
There is a bench there I have been doing dips and funny pushups ..  trying to get some sun and fresh air is really valuable.

I decided against the surgery as you know - I have gotten the A-OK from my Doc that "Bone Stimulation" is good science.  I have ordered one. Stoked to do what I can.

I have been studying what happens in the process of bone healing - its mostly on a cellular level. 
I have been taking 'cell food' and doing what i can to keep my cells 'oxygenated' . 
The Tibia is a bone with low circulation problems.
I am hanging it upside down, and lowering it often to promote blood flow.  (like eric horst in "how to climb 5.12" - but in my legs)
I have spoke to my Doc's at length about all sorts of noninvasive therapy that could help..
He is actually a big supporter of meditation.  he feels that we as humans as immense potential to heal, and as much as our cells are on 'auto pilot' similar to how our liver kidneys 'just do their jobs' vs our arms and legs that work when we will them to; meditation can help focus our cells, and energy paths by removing some of the distractions and influences that we immerse our selves in..

I have stopped the pain pills as soon as I could.
I am even off the Big Ibuprofen pills, and am taking the regular 200mg ones ..  maybe 1200mgs a day ..  vs the 2400mg + percocet that I was taking 2 weeks ago..

Thanks for your stoke bro!
getting a lot of time to spend sitting.. 
looking forward to the pain of rehab...

I love to hear that your out climbing and skiing ..  I'll join you soon enough..

take air,

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rehab sucks (OT)
« on: April 03, 2010, 01:52:32 pm »
hey thanks for the support Mike - i wish the story was more exciting - I was riding my motorcycle in sf - some rush hour dude wasn't looking and cut me right off..  there was a harley/adam/prius sandwich for dinner..

lambone thanks for the reply..

i had really been waffling back and forth..  I booked the surgery for this last thursday... but had too many thoughts of cancelling it..  i spoke to a lot of respected, loved, and influencial ones, and had fully decided to go for the surgery - and fully decided against it..  every day has been different right now..    

A big part of me is stubborn enough about my body's ability to heal naturally, and my need for a big challenge..  I am scared about the rehab of the ankle, being in the cast for so long, but its work I am willing to take on..

A big fear about the surgery, is that its so invasive ( i have some pins and plates already but..) if the surgery only gets me 3mths without a cast (that would translate into a year and a half of Physical Therapy using your math)  I might then have to, or want to remove the rod and screws....

Argh - I was so frsutrated about my decision that i could not even ask you guys for advice..  I spoke to some elders,and some young sparks, and my conclusion has been to avoid the knife unless absolutely necesary..

The leg is achy and swells a little still..  I have been experimenting with putting it on the ground for balance only..  trying to work my muscles - but they feel so janky.  
My bones still crunch and click...

All my vehicles are manual - so im stuck at home a lot.. Trying to sell my van and my bug on craigslist ..  want to buy something automatic, maybe a tacoma..

my bro welson just hung me a hangboard in the house..  it feels nice to strectch out and hang...

Mike - no worries brah - the stoke is strong - I hope to be in the meadows looking up in a month or so..  

thanks for being here you guys..  
it feels good to write a little :D

Big Wall Forum / Re: Gear stolen
« on: March 28, 2010, 12:18:59 pm »
Bummer feel for you bro!


Big Wall Forum / Re: Ladders
« on: March 28, 2010, 12:17:13 pm »
Yates - burly and have the spreader bar.. the bees knees.. Also heavy and often overkill.. 

Misty Mountain makes a ladder that doesn't have the spreader bar but does have stiff steps and the elastic loop for jugging. 
My personal favorites - they are streamlined and light.

Like JohnMac - I carry two ladders - and a third 'floater' to be used as needed - usually a junky floppy aider bootied from some place..

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rehab sucks (OT)
« on: March 28, 2010, 12:08:11 pm »
Damn Lambone!  I feel for you..  at least you didn't break your lamb bone...

This is my first post on BW..  I have been a lurker for many a year..  I don't post up often on the taco either - but chose to keep the same name as over there...

..anyways I am stoked about your dropping a crutch - mazel tov!  I am sure that will bring a serious improvement on your quality of life day to day.. 

I had a serious ankle injury about 4 years ago - no bones but the PT was hard - bring any hardman to tears hard.. and I know your determination and stoke is what will fuel a full recovery..  El Cap is a great motivator!

I JUST BROKE MY TIBIA 2 weeks ago!  I am in a cast ..  crutches - lots of ibuprofen..  Dude! I am you 4mths ago :( !  Thanks for your recent post, I am stoked - SO stoked that you have the beginning of wall season upon - also that you are well into recovery that you can use PT as an excuse for focused training..   Keep dilligent and push your edge...

I can't wait to be where you are now..  ..keep at it..  .for you..  .. but also for me..

I am learning to ask for help more.. 
I am learning to do one thing at a time..  Or less things at time..
I am just starting to figure out how to exercise..
I am catching up on some reading..
I am collecting stoke and fueling my fire for recovery.. (thanks nanook for the topos)
I am practicing patience..

..the doc says that maybe would be better to put Ti rod in my tibia.. faster recovery - less time in cast - bone aligned very well..
 .. i am not sure to recover naturally or with surgery..  i could be back on the scene faster with surgery - but like wall climbing - comes with inherent risk..

I dont want to hijack your thread - more like hitching a ride..  Im just as confused as you were back then..

Lambone - your break was at the 'plateau'  - that means just under the knee right? My break is kind mid shin - closer to the ankle but not realy close.
My break is clean .. its all the way through..  and its called 'oblique' there is .4cm separation between the bones.. they are fairly well aligned now with a little bi of overhang on each side.. (.35cm avg)

I hear and feel the bones in my shin clicking and crunching often..  ugh..

i appreciate your time and efforts.. 
that goes for all of you wallrats..

Take Air,

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