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Topics - splitchard

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Big Wall Forum / Guidebook for Zion big walls
« on: January 10, 2009, 09:25:14 pm »
Can anyone recommend a good guidebook for Zion, including good detailed info on the trade routes like Moonlight Buttress, Prodigal Son, and Touchstone? Thanks!!

So I've soloed a couple of 1 pitch aid climbs now and I've been using a Petzl Attache screw-lock biner to connect my GriGri to the belay loop on my harness.  I am sure that this is fine, but I have to keep a constant eye on the connection to make sure that the biner doesn't orient itself incorrectly so that the force of a fall would be placed on the minor axis, which is very week on this biner.

I was wondering if anyone had a better way of connecting the belay biner to the GriGri or maybe a better biner to use for this?  I was looking at some Circel D shaped biners made by Petzl (specifically the Omni biner and a mallion rapide, although the Omni seems to be able to keep it's strength when loaded in more directions).

Thanks for any help!

Big Wall Forum / Glass Menagerie beta at Looking Glass, NC
« on: April 26, 2007, 11:30:40 am »
This is for those that have climbed on the east coast.  I am looking to solo this route, but my only concern is the horrible 35ft unprotected 5.8 traverse on the 2nd pitch.  I heard about a possible alternative to this traverse,  I guess from the 1st pitch anchors you can go up and to the right on aid and supposedly the belay anchors are better.  Is anyone familiar with this variation and would you recommend it?  Where does it link up with the normal route (at the pitch 3 anchors or higher up)?  What does it consist of (fixed pieces, all clean aid, any hooking, ?rating?)?

Also, how is the climbing on the slab to the summit after the 5.9 crack on the last pitch?  Iis it really 5.7R? How steep and long is it?

Any info would be awesome!!

Big Wall Forum / Second set of stoppers
« on: March 21, 2007, 02:08:16 pm »
Does anybody have any suggestions on getting a second set of stoppers?  I already have a set of Black Diamond Stoppers and HB Brass Offsets, so I am looking for something that will fill out and compliment these nicely.  Looking at possibly the new DMM Alloy Offsets due out this summer, DMM Wallnuts and Peanuts, and Wild Country Rocks.  Thanks!

Big Wall Forum / Recommendations for a second set of camming units
« on: November 08, 2006, 03:46:38 pm »
I currently own a set of CCH Aliens from black to grey and a set of BD Camalots from #0.5 to #4.  I am thinking that for aid climbing I want to add a set of BD C3's to back-up all of the Aliens.  In addition I am looking to get another set of cams that cover a range from about 0.77" to 2.53" (the sizes of the purple to yellow Camalots).  Do any of you have any suggestions on cams that would fit this range?  I am looking at possibly DMM 4CU's or Metolius Ultralight Range Finders.  I would think that it would make the most sense to have this second set be markedly different (in head width and places that they will fit in where the Camalots won't) from the Camalots.  Any of your thoughts would be excellent!  Thanks!

Big Wall Forum / Sizing for a Yates Big Wall Rack
« on: October 27, 2006, 11:39:12 am »
I have yet another sizing question.  How is one of these supposed to fit and where is the metal clip in loop for the chest harness supposed to be located (ie. above, below, or resting on the nipple)?  I guess another good frame of reference for the fit would be where the top webbing loops on the shoulders should be positioned, like right on top of the shoulder or positioned more towards the front.  This is another case of having to purchase a piece of equipment online because no retailer in the area sells them and wondering if the one that I ordered is too large.  Thanks!!

I am new to wall climbing and I have heard that you tend to lose quite a bit of weight during the ordeal.  I am wondering just how much weight loss would be expected, say on a 2 day climb and also on a 5 day climb?  Specifically, I am asking this in terms of choosing a size for a Yates Shield harness.  I want to know how much room I should have left over to cinch it tighter if I lose inches around my waist during a wall climb.  I just bought one in a size medium and when wearing a light pair of shorts and no shirt I have about an inch on either side of the two buckles for cinching tighter.  Thanks!!

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