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Topics - Mr.

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Non Climbing (if you must) / FS: Fish Ultralight Single Portaledge
« on: August 23, 2012, 05:39:28 pm »
$225 + shipping. No rain fly.

Great condition. Used only a few times. No holes, tears, or damage. Stuff sack included.

Big Wall Forum / Is it possible to core-out 3/8" stud type bolts?
« on: January 26, 2012, 01:11:22 pm »
Can something like this be used to drill out bad studs bolts? Could a drill bit be adapted for use on hand held hammer drill? Might apply to some high traffic sport walls/accessible areas. Be sweet to not have to carry a generator or water tank... It seems like a good idea if it works.

Big Wall Forum / Renaissance Wall on Higher Cathedral?
« on: January 16, 2012, 10:43:06 am »
Looks pretty neat. Anyone checked this out?

Big Wall Forum / Calaveras Dome/Ellis Rd. Mini Facelift
« on: October 24, 2011, 11:22:59 am »
Sad to see a beautiful area like this get trashed. We started picking up trash at the top of Ellis Rd. and stopped at the first bridge before the Cal Dome approaches. We picked up along the river and a couple of the bigger campgrounds as well. There are still a few areas that need some lovin' but managed to get most of it. There was a lot...

Anyone interested in doing an annual Cal Dome facelift should post up or contact me. Maybe we can get something going for around this time next year, before the upper road closes. I'd donate the food and beer as well as the gloves and trashbags. The fall temps would be perfect for climbing too!


Max R.
Truckee, CA

Big Wall Forum / Good Yosemite weather window: now til end of Jan
« on: January 11, 2011, 06:58:33 pm »
Looks like things are shaping up. Sources indicate dryness and warmer temps through the end of this month.

Yessss.... project time! Anyone else gunning it?

This is the official thread to call me out when the weather craps out and you get rescued.

Big Wall Forum / bigwall first aid topic: QuikClot
« on: December 01, 2010, 10:54:39 pm »
just want to put this topic out there because most people dont know it exists.

quikclot, simply put, is a powder that you can pour into a bad wound to stop bleeding. there is also a type of gauze with quikclot in it. it was originally developed for use by soldiers in combat and has proably saved thousands of lives, if not tens of thousands. the actual number must be staggering.

it is super effective, fast working, lightweight/portable, inexpensive, and easy to use. quikclot is standard issue now in all armed services and really should be for most climbers anywhere. the first time i brought it we used it when my partner took a direct hit in the head with helmet on from the block out of nowhere. it was a non-life threatening head wound but a still a huge deep split and gushing blood. nasty. my partner jugged up, leaving gear, i tore open the first packet and the wind got most of it. i got all of the second pouch into the wound and the bleeding stopped immediately. its was amazing, i've never seen like that. i remember doing this weird laugh because we went from an all-out big wall emergency situation to stabilized in mere seconds. i mean, it sealed it, welded it shut until it healed completely 3-4 weeks later.

we were stoked when that was over.

you can find some stuff on utube about quikclot, but you wont be eating pork for dinner.

Big Wall Trip Reports / Baffin Island E. Coast Ski Madness
« on: August 17, 2010, 06:28:31 pm »
oooh yes oh yes....  the goods.

be prepared to be blown away. enjoy!

Big Wall Forum / Free YNP Topographical Maps
« on: September 01, 2009, 04:58:42 pm »
Found this page with free 7.5 minute USGS topo maps for Yos. Good topo beta for hike to the top of the Captain etc. Great stuff. Check it.

Big Wall Forum / New Wall Gear for 2010
« on: July 20, 2009, 05:46:56 pm »
-Metolius, new portaledge like the Fish One Night Stand.... sweet. Weighs 40% of current single Bombshelter. Called the Gizmo, a stupid name for a rad product.
-DMM, dual axle cams. Speaks for itself.
-BD has redesigned the hotwire I-beam style, lighter, better, less $$. Nice 'biner, gotta say. Also, new wall gloves that look sik.
-Petzl, new pulleys, lighter, more efficient.
-Blue Water, new 10mm lead cord, skinnier version of the Blue Water/Yates FreeWall 10.3mm. Excellent cut/abrasion resistance and lightness @ ~66g/m. Also, a new 8mm tag/haul/rap line. A burly stiff cord that doesnt tangle or stretch.

There's more, but I can't tell... yet. Its gonna be a good year for wall climbers.

Big Wall Forum / Most water stashed on an El Cap Route
« on: May 14, 2009, 09:06:47 am »
So there you are climbing El Cap in July or August, sunbaked, low on water, close to heat stroke and insanity. You're probably aiding some gawd awful slot directly in the sun or something and as you mantle onto the piss-slick belay ledge there it is... the motherlode of water stashes!

I've found gallons here and there, mostly quarter filled with off-color undrinkable fluids of uncertain orgins. I'm sure we've all considered drinking some stuff that was probably just piss anyway (no I didn't do it). My personal record for discovering the good stuff was eight-ten gallons on island in the sky. Damn near took up the whole ledge! Some were still sealed! The irony is that we had plenty and didn't need it. Funny how that works.

Where have you unexpectedly found a bigwall oasis?

And remember folks: smell it before you drink it.

Non Climbing (if you must) / FS: ****Wall Gear*****
« on: March 04, 2009, 10:41:09 am »
Edit: Y'all know what I have to sell... the Aztar Set and Touchstone Haulbag are a sure bet. Send me a message if you have questions.

Thanks to everyone who has helped me out so far.

Non Climbing (if you must) / FS: CCH Alien Set *NEW* Blue-Red $46ea.
« on: March 02, 2009, 09:04:11 am »
Edit: they are gone now, can't delete this post. thanks everyone.

Just tried out the 10th Mtn w/ Voile 3-pin (no cable) and it rawked. So light and quick. Anyone have the Guide? I heard it was a better ski if you are skiing downhill and that it didnt climb as well as the 10th. Maybe the Guide is better w/ BD Glidelite STS? Also: 3-Pin or light AT? Seems like Voile 3-pin is the least expensive while still getting decent control. I just dont know about having that 3 pin boot bending over my toes for long distances. Blister time. Any suggestions on skis or bindings? What do most people use for approaching climbs in the winter?

Big Wall Forum / New Jersey Turnpike
« on: December 03, 2008, 07:02:22 pm »
Est. in 1977 by Bard, Burton, Hawkins, and Kauk, the NJT is the second route to be established in the NA feature diorite. The topo indicates runout free climbing and difficult aid. The speed record is held by Ammon and Brian, summiting in just over 14hrs! I've never seen anyone on this route. What gives? Obliterated by rockfall? Has anyone done this route? Deuce?

Big Wall Forum / Trying to contact Dan or Sue McDevitt
« on: July 01, 2008, 05:34:06 pm »
Does anyone know how I might be able to contact them? I have friends here in Truckee that say they are still around the Yosemite. I would appreciate the help. Thanks.


Big Wall Forum / Tales of heat and exhaustion.
« on: April 29, 2008, 06:38:44 pm »
It is summer in the Valley, folks. This last Sunday as I was walking to the big shade tree in El Cap meadow it felt like 100 degrees with that hot lazy breeze blowing across from the west. The tree does not have leaves yet, by the way, and the north-facing gullies still have snow, but the sun and heat are back in full force! It took a session on the Shield to realize that over this long, cold, work-infested, Truckee winter, I had set aside all the memories and tales of heat and exhaustion.

I'll start ?er off with a good one. Last July I was climbing on Emerald Point on the west shore of Tahoe, finding great climbing and amazing views. It was stinking HOT and we were on the south-facing aspect of this beautiful peak. I was climbing a nice, but  runout, face pitch on perfect granite when all of the sudden I feel that things are going to go very, very, wrong. My peripheral starts narrowing down, I am dizzy, tunnel vision, my legs feel like they are going to buckle under my bodyweight. Holy shite, I think, I am totally going to faint because of this friggin? heat! I cling onto the knobs with hella pinch power and focus. Nooooo! Not now! I try to shake it off but my vision is still narrowing, panic is creeping in, my body wants to shut down, this wasn?t supposed to happen. Nooooo! Damnit! I try to regain control. Downclimb? Keep going up? Stay at this stance? Damn! I actually try to hook one of my gear loops from my harness onto a knob in case I was to pass out right then! That didn?t work, of course. My thought processes are scrambled, I?m a goner, hundred-twenty footer onto a piece somewhere down there, massive trauma to the body, internal bleeding, no helmet, whoops. I lean into the wall and close my eyes. All I see are small swirling dots.

Well anyhow, I?m still here, made it through that one. It was a close call that could have had very unfortunate consequences. Amazing how the human body can still override the mind if it wants to in these situations.  It was a very strange feeling, especially for climbers who pride themselves on being ?in control.? I was very lucky.

I?ll turn this thread over to you all. Do you have any good stories about heat, dehydration, walls without enough water, desperate situations to get water, or hallucinations? Please share, this could be fun. ?Tis the season for tales of heat and exhaustion!

Big Wall Forum / Gallego Bros: Where are their routes?
« on: February 11, 2008, 02:45:41 pm »
Hopefully someone can help me out with this. I know where Verano and Mediteraneo go, but where are the other routes?They also have a Watkins route? Anyone out there know? Do they have 4 or 5 routes on the Captain? C'mon speak up.

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