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Topics - Erik Sloan

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I'm pretty sure most of the folks here have gotten the new guidebook by now. Thank you for your support.

I also have a limited time deal on the leftover posters from the Kickstarter, so for $40 you can get the print book, 2015 ebook(50 new topos!), and a Nose, Salathe, or Zodiac poster(until the 5th, then $50). Please spread the word about this deal!

http://store.yosemitebigwall.com/?p=11


Woot!
E

3
Big Wall Forum / Yosemite Bigwalls on the move!
« on: July 17, 2014, 11:57:44 am »
Hi Bigwall Enthusiasts,

We stored the 8,000+ lbs of new Yosemite Bigwalls: The Complete Guide books in Roger's basement(up stairs, around the house, and downstairs to the basement). Now he is moving so we have to move 6,000 lbs of books to his new place. As much fun as that sounds, we'd way rather just sell as many as we can to lighten our load......

Order the new Yosemite Bigwalls: The Complete Guide by July 25th and receive my and Tom Evans new map How To See Climbers On El Capitan(a $4.95 value) free!

Order here:

http://www.yosemitebigwall.com/products

Check out the Map here:

 http://www.amazon.com/Yosemite-Climbers-Capitan-Foldout-Evans/dp/1467596914/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405613248&sr=8-1&keywords=How+To+See+Climbers+On+El+Capitan

Please Spread The Word(these also make great gifts)!

Wholesale inquiries are also welcome! (requires you to buy in box quantity/ 14 books per box).

Thank you!
Erik Sloan
erik@yosemitebigwall.com

4
Big Wall Forum / Cheap used Yosemite Bigwalls The Complete Guide
« on: June 20, 2014, 09:35:59 am »
One of our boxes arrived at the USPS shipping center open, so the books got thrown in the lost and found. I wasn't aware then of the process of how to retrieve our stuff. Some guy bought a big box of books in an auction and is selling our book for $10:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/1467596906/ref=sr_1_1_up_1_main_olp?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1403278337&sr=1-1&condition=used

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Big Wall Forum / Best Speaker setup for wallin?
« on: February 21, 2014, 09:29:37 am »
Man it seems like things change so fast in the tech world these days. My partners usually bring the toons, which I love.

What do you guys use?

6
Big Wall Forum / Bigwall Lending Library
« on: February 12, 2014, 07:29:42 am »
Yo Gang,

Just in the research and exploratory phases here, but one of my goals with yosemitebigwall.com forever has been to create a lending library of bigwall stuff that doesn't get too trashed: Big cams, pins, ascenders, drills, hooks, heads (just pay for what you use), Double gear sling, hammers, etc.

I don't have any idea of how it would work best: if it should be a club you join for one-time $10-$20 fee for database maintenance and then you could 'borrow' the gear for a credit card deposit, just pay shipping? Or maybe do an online fundraising campaign to get it started with cash and gear donations and then just see where it goes? Brainstorm some ideas with me of how this might look.

I know from talking with many, many new bigwall climbers each year that the cost of the equipment skyrocketing as it has been makes it difficult for folks. Not having the right rack, because they spent all their money on ascenders,haulbags,etc, causes folks to nail when they could use an offset cam, so this is an impact issue as well. (if you don't think this is an issue follow a european team around the Valley sometime--nearly all of them nail way more than americans).

I hope the recent publication of the Complete Guide will dissuade anyone from worrying here that the cliffs will be overrun with newbies--like my friends at the weight room always said 'at the end of the day 50 lbs is still 50 lbs' ;)

Woot!
erik
erik@yosemitebigwall.com

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Big Wall Forum / The New Yosemite Bigwall Guide
« on: February 04, 2014, 01:50:34 pm »
Yo Gang,

All of the latest topos are up on the website, and I'm working on getting the photo overlays up now.

I sure appreciate everyone here's support, and want to encourage you to spread the word that we climbers can(and should) have free online resources for routes on public lands. Our book contains so many thousands of corrections, variations, and routes offered by people who were inspired by our idea to create a free online guide.

So keep the corrections comin! Woot!

thanks,
erik
erik@yosemitebigwall.com

 

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Big Wall Forum / New How-to Bigwall book--need your stories
« on: January 24, 2014, 02:56:00 pm »
Duece, you gotta get in on this one!

Hey guys, I'm making a book called My First Bigwall, which is gonna deliver the goods on how to bliss out on the big stone. Most of us didn't get that kind of primer, and epiced a little more. I'd love to share some 'my first bigwall' stories in the book so future climbers can understand that hard is relative.

Please email me your stories erik@yosemitebigwall.com

Woot! e

9
Big Wall Forum / sweet dinner ledge shot needed
« on: November 23, 2013, 04:07:41 pm »
Yo Gang,

Hoping someone can hook me up with a sweet South Face or Dinner Ledge shot--ideally oriented vertically(our book is 7in wide by 10in tall). Thanks!

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Big Wall Forum / The next prize from the Wings of Steel boys!
« on: October 10, 2013, 11:29:59 am »
This route looks like it climbs through some cool features. Still awaiting a second ascent:

http://yosemitebigwall.com/ring-fire


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Hi Guys,

We're not looking to go crazy with advertisements(and are giving Access Fund and ASCA free ad space) but want to offer this out to the bigwall community in general in case we missed someone. We've talked with most of the bigwall specific manufacturers, and several are on board, just thought I would put it out there so if anyone had a related business or knew someone who could profit from this opportunity they could pass it along. Pretty standard page rates: $6-800 full page, $1200 back cover is still available. We're open to trades or half page ads if there is interest.

We are also still looking for bigwall photos, and are offering a free ad in exchange for pictures used.

Email me for more details if you are interested.

Thanks,
erik sloan
yosemitebigwall.com
yosemiteerik@gmail.com

12
Big Wall Forum / Wyoming Sheep Ranch question for Duecey
« on: October 04, 2013, 10:48:55 am »
Oh Baby, we're down to the last few El Cap topos. So close!

Do I understand the FA history that Slater and Bballer finished on the Sea of Dreams, and when you and Xavior repeated it(which number?) you established the variation out the Cyclops? Wally Barker repeated the Cyclops Eye variation. He is the only person I've seen do it, but the Reid guide doesn't have it drawn in the topo so it makes sense that someone would finish on the Sea instead of doing a short, low angle pitch to the low angled NA.

What year did you guys climb that? The belay 17 in the REid guide should be in the middle of the Cyclops, no? and then 18 should be at the end of the roof or where the NA 19 is?

thanks man!

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Big Wall Forum / new bigwall example topo: FAist please check this out
« on: August 20, 2013, 10:51:02 am »
Yo Gang,

Once you decide you want to get off the beaten track in bigwallin, the hardest part can be finding the base of a route. Obscure walls or sections of walls tend to all look the same, grassy and obscure. Faist often don't help out when they make a topo for their route, assuming that folks will want to tool around like they did to check out the lines and sniff out their route.

Here is an example of a route my friends put up on Wall of Ages, Age of Exploration. If you click on the History tab you can see Coiler's original topo, which starts 200' off the ground on a free route from a guidebook that's been out of print since 2000.

If you're putting up routes, please take the extra time to really show the base area.

http://www.yosemitebigwall.com/age-exploration

best,
erik
yosemitebigwall.com

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Big Wall Forum / New Bigwall site features?
« on: June 03, 2013, 09:05:21 am »
Yo Gang,

I'm trading my web developer some climbing time for web dev time and was wondering what folks out there feel is really worthy, or missing?


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Big Wall Forum / Bigwall coaching/schlepping/climbing by donation
« on: May 19, 2013, 07:26:04 pm »
Yo Gang,

I'm in the Valley for the summer, cranking hard on the new bigwall book. I'll be working at the Bridge with Tom some but want you know that I'm your resource for all things bigwall in the Valley. It is illegal to offer services that compete with the guide school here, so I have to be clear that like Tom's photographs I offer my services on a donation basis. Your partner bails, need ropes recovered, gear hiked, car dropped off somewhere, ect. I'm your man!

Please drop by and give me any fresh beta off of climbs. 209-386-3014

cheers,
e

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Big Wall Forum / new versions of new Liberty Cap topos
« on: May 09, 2013, 09:42:42 am »
Mucci has dialed the Liberty Cap topos out for much easier route finding. Thanks Josh! Check em out:

http://yosemitebigwall.com/scarface

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Big Wall Forum / new Nose and NIAD topos, rip em up!
« on: April 30, 2013, 03:42:15 pm »
So much fun making topos of routes you've enjoyed. You really feel the mountain.

Anyway, lots of new/different info on thanks in advance for your feedback:

http://yosemitebigwall.com/nose

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Yo Gang,

I'm making a new Eagles Way topo, and the last ascent that anyone submitted an updated rack for is 2006. Seems a while ago and the pin rack sounds a lot heavier than I would bring if I was going up there. Anyone done it recently? Pete I don't seem to have a scribbled on topo from you for this route. Do you have one? (I love Eagle's Way but it's season is short if Horsetail goes late and then it gets really hot as it often does. Todd Offenback climbed it in '99 with disabled climber Wayne Willoughby, awesome times. Went back up to replace bolts mostly solo and ended up bailing from the top of 8 or 9. Stellar route but don't do it too late or you'll end up a bad waterfall story;)

Along these lines, how can we make 'beta' type pages better? I created the Summit Register feature on yosemitebigwall.com to try and improve on the idea of beta pages, because most folks I talked to don't want to read too much beta but enjoy reading summit posts. Should there just be a 'latest rack' section for each aid route, where you can just post up what you used without giving away too much about the route?

Thanks,
erik

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Big Wall Forum / What Wallin folks been up to?
« on: December 09, 2012, 03:24:35 pm »
Man the Valley looks good in those webcams. Anyone been on anything good? What happen to Bob on Zodiac?

cheers,
erik

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Big Wall Forum / Prepatrip.com and new Yo bigwall checklists
« on: September 19, 2012, 08:26:08 pm »
My buddy's website is coming along so I added some more detailed checklists for some of the most popular Valley bigwalls. Rip em up:

http://www.prepatrip.com/lists?category=24

best,
erik
yosemitebigwall.com

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Trying to figure out where the route starts. Anyone been up there?



thanks,
erik

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Big Wall Forum / The 2012 Yosemitebigwall.com Select book thread
« on: June 21, 2012, 06:26:17 pm »
I quit my job and am working full-time this summer to finish this book. So figured I'd start a new thread and get the stoke revved. Here is the working list of climbs--keep your suggestions/beta coming:

(note: any climbs in the old Reid guide that are not listed here will be included in high res color photo overlays so every route on every formation will be at least shown in the book, with the more obscure routes just being available on the website).

Ribbon Falls:
Gold Wall
Laughing at the Void
Reason Beyond Insanity
Hole in the Sky
Dyslexia
Keel Haul
Gates of Delerium
Solar Powered Arete
Ribbon Candy
Chockstone Chimney

El Cap:
West Face
Mr. Midwest
Realm of the Flying Monkeys
Allied Forces
Mirage
Lurking Fear
Lost World/Squeeze Play
Hole World
West Buttress
Octopussy
Never Never Land
Aquarian
Winds of Change
Wings of Steel
Horse Chute/Horse Play
Dihedral
Cosmos
Excalibur
Bermuda Dunes
Heart
Pacemaker
Golden Gate
El Corazon
Verano Magico
Son of Heart
Sunkist
Jolly Roger
Magic Mushroom
Shield
Dorn Direct
False Shield
Turning Point
Muir
Salathe
Mediterraneo
Grape Race
Nose
Central Scrutinizer
Real Nose
Tribal Rite
Genesis
New Dawn
Reticent
Maryrs Brigade
Disorderly Conduct
Mescalito
Adrift
Hockey Night in Canada
Space
South Seas
Atlantis
Block Party
Tempest
Pacific Ocean
Every Man for Himself
Sea of Dreams
Sea Horse
Ring of Fire
North America
El Nino
Nightmare on California Street
Wyoming Sheep Ranch
Heartland
New Jersey Turnpike
Atlantic Ocean
Iron Hawk
Highway to Hell
Native Son
Scorched Earth
Aurora
Sticky Rice
Tangerine Trip
Virginia
Lost in America
Ned and Ted?s Excellent Adventure
Kaos
Zenyatta Mondatta
Abstract Expressionist
Shortest Straw
Zodiac
Slackers Toil
Surgeon General
Lunar Eclipse
Born Under a Bad Sign
Plastic Surgery Disaster
Bad Seed
Bad to the Bone
The Secret Passage
Eagle?s Way
The Prophet
On the Waterfront
High Plains Dripper
Pressure Cooker
Get Whacked
Waterfall Route
Lost in Translation
Chinese Water Torture
Dark Star
Snake
East Buttress


Camp 4 Wall:
Good Ol Boy
Comedy of Folly

Falls Wall:
Wheel of Torture/Via Aqua
Via Sin Aqua
Electric Ocean
Aqua Vulva
Reckless Abondon
Hurrican Jingus
Misty Wall
Dante?s Inferno

Lost Arrow:
Lost Arrow Direct

Rhombus Wall:
Toxic Waste Dump
The Crucible

Arches Wall:
Bulging Puke
Harding Buttress

Washington Column:
South Central
Southern Man
South Face
Skull Queen
Re-animator
Prow
Ten Days After
Crosstown Traffic
Electric Ladyland
Endangered Species
Afroman
Astroman
Horny-Johnson
Mideast Crisis
Saddam Hussein
Great Slab Route
Tora Bora

Watkins:
Hook, Line, Sinker
Seido
South Face
Tenaya's Terror
Prism
Bob Locke memorial
Escape from Freedom

Quarter Dome:
Nashville Skyline
Pegasus
Route of all Evil

Half Dome:
Regular NW
Blue Shift
Arcturas
Same As It Never Was
Direct NW
Queen of Spades
Shadows
The Vodka Putsch
Tis-sa-ack
Kali Yuga
Zenith
White Room
Big Chill
Promised Land
Arctic Sea
Bushido
Jet Stream
Solitary Confinement
White Trash Vacation

Porcelain Wall:
Luminescent Wall
Sky Is Falling
Direct Northwest Face
When Hell Was In Session
House of Cards
Strange World
Sargantana

Liberty Cap:
Passport to the Sky
Scarface
West Buttress
Patriot Act
Southwest Face
Direct Southwest Face
Turkey Shoot

Panorama  Wall:
Bananarama

Nine O Clock Wall:
Ice Age
Crystal Cyclone
Great Southern Trend Kill

Sentinel:
Direct Northwest Face
Early Times
Gobi Wall
West Face

Higher Cathedral Spire:
High LIfe
Reg Northwest Face
Higher Aspirations

Lower Cathedral Spire:
Operation Bravo

Higher Cathedral Rock:
Renaissance Wall
East Face
Learning to Crawl
Wild Apes
The North Sea

Wall of Ages:
Age of Exploration
The New Age
Misenthropic Executioner


Leaning Tower:
Disco Strangler
Jesus Built My Hotrod
Wet Denin Daydream
West Face
Heading for Oblivion
Roulette

Fifi:

Romulan Warrior
The Final Frontier

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Big Wall Forum / new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« on: March 12, 2012, 06:45:28 pm »
Yo gang, as most of you know I"ve been slowing chipping away at my new book project. The premise of this book is to get all of the bigwall route topos that you want to look at in one place. The limitation is there are over 500 bigwall routes in Yosemite so many will have to be left out. For me, it is important that the next bigwall book contain every route on El Cap, Half Dome, Washington Column, Leaning Tower--as these are the most climbed formations and the routes that you hear about and want to peruse while kicking back on the sofa. After that, my goal is to include a route or a few routes from each formation that is regularly climbed, and provide a very detailed color photo of the cliff with the other route lines drawn in--so you will know exactly where the other routes go and that you can get those more obscure topos online at yosemitebigwall.com. B.O.L.T. wall, for example, is probably not worth taking up space in a Select book; maybe down the road we could publish a Yo bigwall bible that included everything.

So here is a running list of the routes that I was thinking of including. Post up your favorite routes that I've missed:

Ribbon Falls:
Gold Wall
Laughing at the Void
Reason Beyond Insanity
Solar Powered Arete

El Cap: every route

Camp 4 Wall:

Good Ol Boy
Comedy of Terrors

Falls Wall:
Wheel of Torture
Via Sin Aqua
Misty Wall
Dante?s Inferno

Lost Arrow:
Lost Arrow Direct

The Rhombus:

The Crucible

Arches Wall:
Bulging Puke
Harding Buttress

Washington Column: every route

Watkins:
South Face
Tenayas Terror
Prism

Quarter Dome:
Pegasus

Half Dome: every route

Porcelain Wall:
Direct Northwest Face
Strange World

Liberty Cap:
Scarface
West Buttress
Patriot Act
Southwest Face

Panarama Wall:
Bananarama

Nine O Clock Wall:
Ice Age

Sentinel:
Gobi Wall
Psychedelic Shack
West Face

Higher Cathedral Spire:
Reg Northwest Face
Higher Aspirations

Lower Cathedral Spire:
Operation Bravo

Higher Cathedral Rock:
Renaissance Wall
East Face
Learning to Crawl
Wild Apes
North Seas

Middle Cathedral:
Mother Earth

Lower Cathedral Rock:
The New Northface

Leaning Tower: every route

Fifi:


I look forward to hearing your suggestions.

cheers,
erik
yosemitebigwall.com



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Big Wall Forum / New Liberty Cap route topos on Yosemitebigwall.com
« on: March 05, 2012, 10:55:44 pm »
Thanks Mucci! Great looking topos. Hopefully you guys will send me some history for that section too.

http://yosemitebigwall.com/liberty-cap

Woot!
erik

ps. also many props to James McBryan of thetechscouts.com for the awesome website!

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Big Wall Forum / yosemitebigwall.com purpose
« on: February 21, 2012, 10:29:06 am »
I'll re-work that intro letter soon, but till then:

yosemitebigwall.com exists to bring the bigwalls back to the people. Anyone who climbs a route can send in a topo, and that topo will be available for free(check out Paul Gagner's recent New Dawn topo. and Holly Beck's 2011 Virginia updates, woot!).Forever.

In a conversation in '09 w/ Chris Mac, while collaborating on his 3rd edition of STBW, I was really hammering Chris on putting many more routes in our book. He didn't want to commit to anything(and subsequently did the book with Spaz), but offered, 'Traditionally guidebook authors have gotten to decide which topos are available and which are not.'

That may have been the case before. But it doesn't really work, not on public land at least.

Public installations, basically any route that has a fixed anchor, should be publicly disclosed.

Afroman is an example of just such an outrageous route! If you haven't climbed it, and you're ready for anything East of South Face you are seriously missing out(only a handful of lead bolts and endless overhanging splitters!). Fro aka Jeff Hornibrook, one of the FAist, has worked for 20 years in the park and in the past had given out topos to a few friends. The route saw a little heyday in '95-'98 with maybe 5-10 ascents and then once those employees who were close with Fro moved on, and Fro settled more in Groveland with his family, the route faded into obscurity.

Spring on!
best,
e

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Big Wall Trip Reports / A mellow one
« on: December 28, 2011, 01:05:31 pm »

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Big Wall Forum / Leaning Tower topos online
« on: December 05, 2011, 09:58:33 am »
Mucho thanks to all the wallers that helped make these current:

http://yosemitebigwall.com/leaning-tower

cheers
e

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Big Wall Forum / cheers to Brant solo on Wet Denim!
« on: November 16, 2011, 09:36:10 am »
Here's a new topo of this six-pitch, dangling crack classic. Live it up buddy!

http://yosemitebigwall.com/4-wet-denin-daydream

Just putting the finishing touches on the other three Tower topos, so if you have any topo corrections pm me.

cheers
e

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Big Wall Forum / new features on yosemitebigwall.com
« on: December 07, 2010, 04:41:04 pm »
Yo Gang, got some fun new stuff rollin (this is fresh so if you see any bugs please post em up)

I've been kicking around the idea of how to make the 'beta' pages on these sites work better. Thought it might be more fun to
have a Summit Register for each route, somewhere you could log funny stories and maybe some beta about each climb. Each Route now
has a Summit Register tab where you log your ascent, and also contains some other fun info like the Speed Record and the number of ascents logged.

If you log an ascent in the Summit Register, it will also show on your Route Log which is a cool year-by-year list of your climbs in your profile. You can view someone's Route Log by clicking on their name(Say in a Summit Register post or if they submit a Trip Report).

Been working through some of these web kinks so haven't gotten all the topos on the site yet. The Column has all the topos.

let me know what you think.

cheers
e

30
Big Wall Forum / List of routes on Fifi buttress
« on: August 16, 2010, 10:54:13 am »
I'm not seeing these routes on the 'complete list of Yo bigwalls'. Am I missing it? Does anyone know a link to a page with this info?

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