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Topics - JC5123

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Big Wall Forum / International Climbers Festival
« on: June 06, 2013, 02:53:16 pm »
Lander, WY
July 10-14th.

Anyone planning to go?

Big Wall Forum / Counterfeit Petzl Products
« on: October 18, 2011, 08:00:56 am »
Came across this on another site, It's a release from Petzl's site. The date on the post was 2/ 2011 but looks like it's still relevant info.
Scary stuff, check your gear!!!!

Big Wall Forum / Old school thinking vs. the new generation
« on: May 18, 2010, 08:12:40 am »
Took my 10 y.o. daughter out Sat for her first time on real rock. We did a couple of 5.6 climbs at Fremont Canyon.

While we were there, I ran into some people that I knew from the local climbing gym. Some of the things that they said got me thinking about some of the changes that I have been seeing the past 5-6 years.

It seems like most of the new climbers getting into the sport are entering through the gyms. While this is great, because it is a (relatively) safe way to get into it. They are coming outside and climbing 5.12 their first year. Really pushing the limits. While it is good to see them outside, climbing hard and having fun, I have noticed some disturbing trends.

It seems like the new standard rack consists of 20 quickdraws, and a power drill.

I see routes being put up where the bolt spacing creates fatal fall potential. I think this has to do with some of the new videos coming out that focus so much on free soloing. (MHO)

People are not learning the skills that allow them t adapt to a situation. I saw someone drop an ATC into the river, and had no idea how to belay their partner without it. (I gave a short lesson on the Munter hitch and the carabiner brake rappel.

My point is that people are coming into the sport with desire and awesome ability, but are not learning the fundamentals that we all take for granted.

I'm wondering if anyone else is noticing this, or am I just turning into a grumpy old man?

Big Wall Forum / Alpine Wall (and it's close to home!)
« on: January 28, 2010, 07:54:31 am »

(Photo shamelessly swiped off summit post)

This is my late summer project. Mt. Hooker, North Face. I'm looking for anyone who has been on this thing for general beta. (i.e. rock quality, amount of fixed gear, any major hazards)

While I do have a partner for this climb, if anyone is interested we are looking for a third. Our dates are Aug 14th- 21st. So if you are looking for an alpine big wall give me a shout.

Any info that anyone is willing to share would be appreciated.

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