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Topics - xtrmecat

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Big Wall Forum / Advice needed from gurus, ladders and adjustables. ????
« on: December 19, 2013, 10:43:39 am »
I will try to keep this brief but it will probably be long so I can make it clear, so here goes... I use and have almost always used adjustable aiders and have only found a couple shortcomings with them. In many other discussions I have been told that they are fine until I get into harder terrain. This has been mentioned more than once, so not wanting to be left behind I started my "get into shape workout for next years wall" using only the new Yates ladders. To explain further, we have zip for cracks here so the only good workout I can get is hooking some slighty less than verticle face climbs, and clip the bolts when I can.

  I have done this many times with my adjustables with only some small issues like a traversing move from hook to hook. This is slightly easier with the ladders but I have run into a huge problem withmovement up a ladder when the features run out for hands. I will explain.

  With adjustables I can set the step height to whatever I need as I need it by tugging on the tail as I move up, most of the time I can adjust my daisy about right and stand up hard against it to stand tall and have some balance when finding the next feature to hook. With the ladders I seem to have to stand up too tall or not reach. I am able to sub top step, but only with the tip of my toe in the ladder, as pulling it out to get more foot in just unseats my hook and away I go. Teeing off is easy to do if I do not get too high, but the features only allow this once in a while, and mostly do not. Here is the real problem, the ladder restricts my ability to put a foot out each side for stability when an off balance reach is needed, but with the adjustables this has become intuitive. I tried to flag but it also almost always results in a spill out of the ladder. I tried to bend the knees of both legs accordingly and need to turn the knees out to aquire the needed balance and oh my god did I wreck my knees.

  I quit running a couple years ago as the knees are on the edge of done, and I know I can expect some discomfort, but this is out of control. I rode the bike for two days to loosen them up and after a six hour work out, two days of anti inflamatories and light use they are baked. No way I can do a grade V or VI in this condition.

  Any one see my technique flaw, or have any tips to work "the steep" for a ladder newby? Like I stated, the rock is just under verticle, but the climbs I am looking at in the next season are verticle to overhanging so I must aquire a good technique or just consider my self doomed to adjustable aiders the rest of my life, and limited to their abilities.

  I am going to keep trying to adapt as hard as I can, I just need some tips to figure out the proper use to walk up the steeper stuff without killing my knees, and quite falling over when standing tall on the featureless steep.

  Burly Bob

Big Wall Forum / Real Nose
« on: November 06, 2012, 02:52:07 pm »
Any one here have a topo for the " real nose" ? I got a quick look at a crude hand drawn thing on Erics website, and now it doesn't work for me anymore.

I kind of need to see this puppy very soon. I read the  Reids guidebook had it, but I do not even know anyone with a copy. Digitized would be awesome, that way I can drool, and print too.

Burly Bob

Big Wall Forum / Haulbag to beg, borrow, steal, rent, or buy
« on: April 12, 2012, 08:26:13 am »
  First two weeks of June, probably going to be hot. Partner has no haul bag, and we will need another one just for H2o and extra gear. Already searched ebay, craigslist, with nothing but new pigs out there.

  Anyone have another suggestion, so he doesn't have to buy new for one more wall? Probably be a sub bag to my smallish grade V bag, I never got a huge grade VI and thought I would never need it.

  I would be responsible for it, can pay shipping, leave a deposit, pay for it outright, or whatever. I sold my Fish budget bag this last year, as it was getting worn, and I was a broke student in need of climbing money.

  Any suggestions?

  Burly Bob

Big Wall Forum / Zion- how long to dry out in winter temps?
« on: January 25, 2009, 03:27:46 pm »
Help. I was looking at a Zion trip starting midweek next week and the rain won't stop till Tuesday.1-28-09 How long does it take for the sandstone to get good again with the ambient temps in the 40's? Should I bag it for a later date with better weather? Is there enough wind to dry it quickly or does the temp need to be warmer  to dry up the water out of the stone rather than just on the surface. I have zero sandstone experience is why I ask this. I definately don't want to screw up placements on a route by jumping the gun. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Big Wall Forum / When fixing a rope, What knot/knots at the anchor?
« on: October 13, 2006, 05:21:39 pm »
When I solo, and this is most of the time, I usualy make an anchor and tie in. Next I fix my dynamic line to said anchor usualy with 2 lockers to the power point with a figure eight. On the rare occasion,such as Devils Tower, that I arrive at a pitch end there are usually a pair of anchors. I normaly tie a boline on a bite and double fisherman the tail and fix with 2 lockers. Question is there a better knot to use here? My climbing mentor and I both cannot think of anything better but I'd sure like to know what the rest of the world uses.

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