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Messages - Mr.

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1
Non Climbing (if you must) / FS: Fish Ultralight Single Portaledge
« on: August 23, 2012, 05:39:28 pm »
$225 + shipping. No rain fly.

Great condition. Used only a few times. No holes, tears, or damage. Stuff sack included.


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Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: May 31, 2012, 09:12:33 am »
The bad weather had us wishing...

If the River Was Whiskey
V 5.8 A2+




3
Big Wall Forum / Re: Is it possible to core-out 3/8" stud type bolts?
« on: February 14, 2012, 08:10:51 pm »
Greg: great find! thanks. looking into this.

Mucci: how does it work? torque it till it pulls? looks promising because its portable.

thanks everyone. good stuff.

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Big Wall Forum / Is it possible to core-out 3/8" stud type bolts?
« on: January 26, 2012, 01:11:22 pm »
Can something like this be used to drill out bad studs bolts? Could a drill bit be adapted for use on hand held hammer drill? Might apply to some high traffic sport walls/accessible areas. Be sweet to not have to carry a generator or water tank... It seems like a good idea if it works.

http://stores.toolsdirectusa.com/-strse-Diamond-Core-Bits--dsh--Wet-cln-Concrete--dsh--Short-Bit/Categories.bok
http://stores.toolsdirectusa.com/-strse-Core-Drills-cln-Hand-Held/Categories.bok

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Renaissance Wall on Higher Cathedral?
« on: January 19, 2012, 03:24:38 pm »
There are at least 4 routes on the taller section of the N. Face.

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Renaissance Wall on Higher Cathedral?
« on: January 19, 2012, 11:03:02 am »
E. face, right?

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Renaissance Wall on Higher Cathedral?
« on: January 18, 2012, 11:42:25 am »
looks fun.

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Big Wall Forum / Renaissance Wall on Higher Cathedral?
« on: January 16, 2012, 10:43:06 am »
Looks pretty neat. Anyone checked this out?

9
Big Wall Forum / Re: Calaveras Dome/Ellis Rd. Mini Facelift
« on: October 26, 2011, 10:23:52 am »
I look forward to making it happen next fall. It'll need some lovin by then, I'm sure.

Be stoked to meet some of the bigwalls folks, keep ya posted.

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Big Wall Forum / Calaveras Dome/Ellis Rd. Mini Facelift
« on: October 24, 2011, 11:22:59 am »
Sad to see a beautiful area like this get trashed. We started picking up trash at the top of Ellis Rd. and stopped at the first bridge before the Cal Dome approaches. We picked up along the river and a couple of the bigger campgrounds as well. There are still a few areas that need some lovin' but managed to get most of it. There was a lot...

Anyone interested in doing an annual Cal Dome facelift should post up or contact me. Maybe we can get something going for around this time next year, before the upper road closes. I'd donate the food and beer as well as the gloves and trashbags. The fall temps would be perfect for climbing too!

Thanks!

Max R.
Truckee, CA

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: October 04, 2011, 04:50:04 pm »
more valley goodness, one from early spring. brrr...

Cool Deal 5.10 A3+.

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: September 19, 2011, 06:48:40 pm »
mark - ynp.

some nice looseness:

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: September 17, 2011, 05:55:01 pm »
somewhere on the way to placing ~60 A1 beaks in 2 pitches. woohoo!



smack - nice one!

14
Big Wall Forum / Re: What's your worst bivy?
« on: September 15, 2011, 09:48:51 am »
i dunno, maybe not the worst bivy, but maybe the weirdest forced bivy this year.

we were on a unclimbed backcountry wall this july and while on lead during the night, a huge possessed rat/animal/thing attacked our ropes and almost completely chewed through one of them. in a panic we kept flipping the ropes but in the dim light of out headlamps we could see it still attack the cords again and again. we had been battling it for about 10 minutes at this point, my partner shouting back and forth when the animal suddenly appeared, very close to me, arms reach, it was staring me down. it had just been and honest 40-50 feet away and then it materialized right in front of me, clinging to the rock upside down, very spooky, i was scared. honestly this thing was so crazy and so close i thought it was going to jump on me and maul me, seriously. i thought it was going to attack me and then cut me off the wall. so finally it was in range staring me down, and my first thought was smash it with a #6 cam, and kill it, and i started unclipping a camalot but it scurried just out of range and started on another section of rope before i could unclip my cam. terrified i flipped the ropes as hard as i could to whip the thing off the rope and have it fall to its death. but it held on with one arm, the force of the flip stretching the animal completely horizontal as it clung on. we could not continue. i hung in slings all night, sheltering the ropes with my body, wondering which powerful animal sprit i had pissed off. i connected myself to the anchor with both my daisys and at 2 points with the lead cord. if i dozed off i feared that any moment i was going to get cut off the wall and find myself in a freefall. evil animal spirits testing our mettle?

we still sent.

other worst bivy this year was when rockfall chopped my haulbags off the wall on another first ascent. coreshotted the ropes and everything. was way up there etc. sent that one too.

still havent had an epic this year tho! : )


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Big Wall Forum / Re: Eagle's Way...
« on: August 27, 2011, 10:22:24 am »
i hear ya mike. we were psyched when the wall finally kicked back. the the lower angle section goes quick, though, and is pretty solid there. it isn't straight up diorite, but more of a mixture. i don't think the bags got stuck in that section. just think of it as part of the process to gain access to a very nice section of the wall. not trying to sandbag, it is a a3+ pitch, the middle third of the route is stacked with a2+/a3 pitches... like it says it the book...  the route just gets knocked for its opening pitches.

something like lost world/squeeze play would be worthy of your consideration, offset, because you get nice easy cleaning, sweet ledge bivys, fun and safe easy mixed/nailing pitches, a great send for a limited time frame... cruise your way up a big 'ol gold slab, get off the deck, and find some chillin'. its all good, right?

16
Big Wall Forum / Re: Eagle's Way...
« on: August 26, 2011, 02:54:50 pm »
Quote
I think any EC route with five approach pitches gets automatically relegated to the non-classic column.

c'mon gimme a break...

we had fun. it is a nice route. it gets climbed several times a year. it is a step up in difficulty.

didn't someone get hurt on the trip? whats the big deal?


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Big Wall Forum / Re: Eagle's Way...
« on: August 26, 2011, 09:44:59 am »
an excellent route. nothing too out there. no crazy gear tricks or ultra dangerous stuff. maybe some old 1/4" lead rivets but the belays are bomber, either totally replaced or 1 bomber bolt and 2-3 ok ones. we didnt have any problems hauling down low. we left the bags (unroped) on the top of p1 and then hauled off of the PSD bolt anchors which are 2 pitches up from there. so only 2 hauls (with a 70) to get to a traversing ledge section that leads to the long wandering 5.7/8 pitch. i escorted the bags across the traverse here. the middle third of the route is nice and steep and the crux. you get a great view of all the stuff under devils brow, nice exposure, clean rock. we ended up placing quite a few pins and cam hooks under those overlaps. the upper third gets more slabby, you are climbing ramps at this point and it gets more cruiser, hauling is still easy. this route offers a nice perspective of the whole east wall. overall i thought this route was a lot better that what i had heard from other people. i thought it was maybe one step up from zodiac or lost world/squeeze play.  

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: August 03, 2011, 10:36:39 am »

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: July 22, 2011, 09:52:53 am »

Pitch 17 of The Conch V 5.9R A2+

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: July 06, 2011, 11:33:05 am »


"bomber anchor in action"

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Making or getting ahold of a butterknife?
« on: May 24, 2011, 03:36:32 pm »
Quote
ZM is going to be quite clean of copperheads after John and I get done with it next week. There is no way in hell I'm clipping long lines of heads like I did on Tribal Rite last year!

pulling all the heads on lead while you are still under them! whoa....

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Big Wall Forum / Re: what is this Dorn they speak of?
« on: May 16, 2011, 10:05:49 am »
get ready for mammoth to sheild roof! ... maybe bolted now?

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: April 26, 2011, 09:08:42 am »

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: March 08, 2011, 08:34:36 pm »

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: March 07, 2011, 08:39:53 pm »
mas?

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: March 02, 2011, 07:33:49 pm »

Chickenf*ckers IV 5.10+ A2  10 Bolts

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Climbing in winter conditions, done it?
« on: February 10, 2011, 08:34:14 pm »
one piece long underwear! the best investment i've ever made for climbing in the winter. never comes untucked, doesnt bunch up and give you the gnarly bigwall harness rash. soooo warm.

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Gri gri on the big falls?
« on: February 10, 2011, 08:18:46 pm »
took a big whipper on one short fixing. rusty heads ya know.

pretty cool seeing the belay rush by and having enough time to think, wow i was just there!

super sketch stuff you just want a second lead line, double rope technique. its bad when you whip and your rope doesnt have any stretch left (from tearing out multiple pro). thats when sh-it goes really wrong.

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Anyone on Re-Animator lately?
« on: February 03, 2011, 09:48:44 pm »
bail anchor on p5 before the hooks right now. funny as it sounds, if everything is intact, i think you are going to find that its not that bad. scotty and i didnt know sh-it at that time. our first real push, i think. its a little bit of a harder route surrounded by easier ones, a matter of perspective. i think you are going to like it.

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Good Yosemite weather window: now til end of Jan
« on: January 26, 2011, 09:21:45 am »
jh: proud wide on s.c.! bring the #6, heh. 

anyone know who got the ffa?

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