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Messages - YetAnotherDave

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1
Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: July 12, 2013, 10:13:49 am »
Looks like lots of people spent their long weekend well!

Here's one from mine, my partner swinging back to the bivi after fixing a few more pitches:



The route is Uncle Bens, in Squamish.  Grade V, 5.10 C2+.  Mostly great rock, lots of fun pitches, 10 minute approach  :)

2
Big Wall Forum / Re: Solar Chargers for the wall..
« on: June 13, 2013, 10:27:40 am »
I just picked up one of these for this season:
http://www.mec.ca/product/5031-524/power-traveller-powermonkey-extreme-solar-charger/

In my balcony testing it charged the battery from 50% to full in 4 hours of indirect sun.  Battery is good for several charges of a smartphone, and could charge my android phone and ipad mini in parallel (not that I'd have the mini on the wall).
Comes with a pretty beefy case, too, and looks like it'd survive in a haulbag just fine.

3
I'm mostly biking - road for cardio (AKA my commute) and north shore foolishness for mental training.  I keep saying I'll drag myself to the climbing gym more often, but it never seems to happen...

And my toddler helps with motivation.  A peaceful night of sleep in the portaledge seems worth any amount of fear and freight hauling  :)

4
Big Wall Forum / Re: West Coast Walls (then into Canada)
« on: January 10, 2013, 06:14:04 pm »
there are lots of cool grade V walls here in squamish, to distract you during your 'exile'

http://www.mattmaddaloni.com/Guide%20Books,%20Squamish%20BW.htm

sounds like a fun trip!

5
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Livin' in the Portal
« on: December 15, 2011, 08:34:56 am »
Nice work.  Thanks for sharin'

6
Big Wall Forum / Re: Stowing hooks on the lead?
« on: November 01, 2011, 07:50:27 am »
'nother vote for the little Fish bags - I use the sack from the "SACK-O-FISH HEADS."   It's got 2 clip-in loops, one with a little locker to my harness, the other with the hooks clipped to it.  I figure the separate loops reduce the chance of droppage a bit.

7
you can register for any number of days up to the current stay limit.  It's also worth asking about cancellations at the pines campsites - cheaper if you've got a big group (since you pay by the site rather than the body), sites are generally quieter, and the rangers are way more polite.   They're always booked miles in advance, but lots of people back out.

8
Or post all your questions here, that way the next guy won't have to ask all the same questions.   :)

I've gotten lots of good advice from lots of people with more experience than me, but one of the key things was from Kate:  budget more water for solo than with a partner, cuz you're working more consistently.  And force yourself to take breaks to stay fed/hydrated both when things are going smoothly and when you feel like you're behind schedule.

9
Big Wall Forum / Re: Joining a static and dynamic rope
« on: May 31, 2011, 02:10:13 pm »
A good trick for joining ropes (static/dynamic/whatever) to fix is to use whatever joining knot you're most comfortable with (figure 8 or double fisherman's most likely) and then tie an alpine butterfly so that the joining knot is in the butterfly's loop.  That gives you something convenient to clip into when passing the knot, and isolates the uber-secure knot with one that's easy to untie. 

Not my idea - this is another one of those little gems you're rewarded with if you manage to wade through PTPP's various book-length posts on RC.com  :)

10
Big Wall Forum / Wild Kingdom moment
« on: May 26, 2011, 07:25:14 am »
I spent a few nights soloing on the Squamish Chief last week.  While having breakfast on day 2 I got to see a peregrine in full dive catch a sparrow, maybe 50 feet from my ledge.  Pretty incredible - I f**king love portaledge camping!

11
Thanks John!

12
Big Wall Forum / Re: 2:1 or 2 hauls?
« on: May 09, 2011, 05:50:33 pm »
Speaking of videos mark, your continuous loop vid seems to be gone...

http://www.bigwalls.com/forum2/index.php?topic=972

13
Big Wall Forum / Re: 2:1 or 2 hauls?
« on: May 05, 2011, 09:00:09 am »
Unless you are doing like a 7+ day route you should try to keep it under the 1:1 weight limit. imho
I agree with trying to keep loads low for short trips, but the other factor in hauling effort is friction - routes which have slabs low down (which is most of them in my neck of the woods) make hauling so sucky.  I've so far gotten by with 1:1 on a block roll, but the first day's hauling seems like so much more work then anything else that I'm tempted to try the 2:1 ratchet next time out.   Anyone have tips/tricks for using the ratchet (simpler explanations than Pete's appreciated :)

--dave

14
Big Wall Forum / Re: How to make sawed offs?
« on: April 21, 2011, 10:09:36 pm »
bench grinder.  like cutting warm butter  :)

of course, in exchange for the shop use I had to unbugger my dad's computer (yet again) but the hacksaw just seemed like work

15
Big Wall Forum / Re: Thoughts on runners/draws for solo-aid
« on: April 15, 2011, 09:30:06 pm »
I take 4 or 6 extendables when soloing and usually only 2 shorty draws - the extendables are good for  standing in when transitioning to free.  The weight/bulk of screamers over regular draws isn't much, so I mostly mix free biners and screamers on gear.  I'll also often use a long sling or two at each anchor, especially when I haven't been out much and my CF management is poor...

I haven't done anything that's hard enough to need to equalise placements to get to bodyweight-worthy, but since having a kid my personal load on placements has gone up a bit   :-(

16
Big Wall Forum / Re: scored a verm hook
« on: April 01, 2011, 08:23:20 pm »
Are you looking at doing a freight hook too?


17
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: MESCALITO
« on: March 11, 2011, 07:12:03 pm »
nice work, on the climb and the vid

and my wife has worked with a whole verse about manky rivets into one of our baby's songs  :-D

...
manky manky rivets
better clip a screamer
up we climb
...

18
Big Wall Forum / Re: Gri gri on the big falls?
« on: February 12, 2011, 11:55:35 pm »
I just use the belay loop, both with a gri-gri short-fixing or a silent partner when soloing.  IIRC the SP instructions say to use the waist and leg loops but that feels clumsy to me. 

19
Big Wall Forum / Re: Gri gri on the big falls?
« on: February 12, 2011, 08:09:23 pm »
Has anyone tried BD's new belay-specific locking  biner?  Looks like it might help with keeping a gri-gri oriented when soloing.   

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/climb/carabiners/gridlock-screwgate-carabiner

20
Big Wall Forum / Re: Please help me get a grant!
« on: December 07, 2010, 07:49:06 am »

21
Big Wall Forum / Re: Esoteric discussion about replacement gear
« on: October 29, 2010, 10:52:44 am »
the whole 'too bomber' complaint seems kinda contrived to me - I'd prefer the option that leaves the fewest holes drilled long-term.

22
Big Wall Forum / Re: El Cap winter route suggestions
« on: October 14, 2010, 04:44:55 pm »
Come on guys, you can't all be on walls right now!

nope - I'm at my desk.  And it's raining.  And I'm bitter!  ;)

IIRC mescalito can get bombed by ice from the rim in the winter - you probably want to stay further right than that. 

The guy on the trip during the last storm was in short sleeves when everyone else was in gore-tex (or ledged up, or both).  If you're looking for fun, with El Cap uncrowded, that looks like a good option.  If you really want to suffer in the cold why screw around in Yosemite, head to Baffin or southern Patagonia!

23
Big Wall Forum / Re: Evolv Shoe Sizing
« on: October 13, 2010, 05:36:46 pm »
I wear 10.5 in the 5.10 tennies and the 10.5 maximus fits like a climbing shoe.  If you're looking for approach shoe comfort I'd go 11.5 for sure.

24
Big Wall Forum / Re: Evolv Shoe Sizing
« on: October 13, 2010, 09:18:31 am »
My only experience is the maximus wall boots - they're narrower than 5.10 (I find 5.10 pretty boxy on my skinny feet) and they fit pretty small, but those shoes aren't really sure if they're an approach shoe or a climbing shoe  :)

25
Big Wall Forum / Re: Pins and heads for sale
« on: September 24, 2010, 10:26:17 pm »
email sent

26
Big Wall Forum / Re: Tomahawks avaible at Mountain Gear now
« on: September 24, 2010, 08:10:08 am »
Do you have any plans for canadian distribution? MEC (mec.ca) are pretty easy to deal with from what I've heard, and there are a few holes in their lineup that you could fill nicely.  Cam hooks are conspicuous by their absence from the catalog, for instance...


27
Big Wall Forum / Re: What's best in doubles?
« on: September 10, 2010, 09:09:04 am »
While we're all praising the metolius ledge,I thought it worth referencing the old thread where we discussed how to make it survive slabby hauling:
http://www.bigwalls.com/forum2/index.php?topic=775.0

To be fair, all ledge bags (except possibly fish) seem to suck.  I emailed Russ about making an oversized replacement bag for my metolius, but haven't heard back yet.  I may end up making one myself with a few layers of heavy cordura...

28
Big Wall Forum / Re: Portaledge bag issues, and modifications
« on: September 10, 2010, 09:05:59 am »
I just reinforced the (even crappier) bag that a friend's pika single came with, and this time I made the plastic liner about 5 inches too long.  I then cut the bottom end to make strips about 5 inches long and 2 inches wide sticking out the bottom like a fringe (sorry no pics).  These then curled around folded under the bottom when the liner was pushed in flush with the top, to protect the bottom of the ledge.  This seemed simpler then the bucket Mark used, and meant I didn't have to go bucket-measuring (what, me lazy?  :)

I like Jano's idea for the modular sleeping-pad system, tho.  I'd think the pad would be sticky, tho,and make it harder to cram the fly into the ledge bag.  Still really wish that ledge bags were bigger,to make putting the fly in easier.  On walls where you're expecting rain it'd be nice to never need to disconnect the ledge from the fly...

29
Big Wall Forum / Re: What's best in doubles?
« on: September 09, 2010, 10:35:02 am »
I' m happy with my metolius double, tho something lighter for weekend solo trips would be nice.  I thought about fish, but I'm kinda tall, and figured that  the extra length of the metolius would make a good night's sleep more likely.  I'm near 200lbs, and have never felt the spreader bar when lying down.  Do have to be careful when standing on the ledge, tho, as weight is less spread out.

Agree with Burt that the fly is good enough for showers rather than something you'd want to ride out an epic storm in, but it's durable and simple.  Definitely need a bivi bag to handle what the updrafts bring in....

30
Thanks again slabby - I have a pair of 8mm doubles, might take both of them up to fix as backropes for the rappels when I finally drag my ass up there.  It's not like there'll be another party on the route  :)  Extra weight sounds like less work than dragging all the kit over to the gully raps and then down the talus...

--dave

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