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Messages - Will

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Big Wall Trip Reports / Some photos from The Shield
« on: November 01, 2010, 11:37:17 pm »
Hey Folks,
Kyle and I climbed The Shield in September. We ran into Nanook on top. We also did some other stuff. Here are some photos.

The Shield
Before, in the Pioneer-mart parking lot in Mariposa


Somewhere below the Shield roof

The Roof

Above the Shield roof

Kyle regains my high-point.  Full disclosure: I took a whip off of the triple cracks and lost my glasses and my nerve for the day. Kyle ended up leading for the rest of the day and took us all the way to Chieftain Ledge. Go Kyle!

Au Sommet ? waking up on top of El Cap is awesome

Man of letters

The Nose
We started up The Nose with a plan to see how far we could get in 10hrs. If we moved fast enough, we?d come back in a day or so for the whole thing.  We made it about a pitch or so above the Jardine traverse by the turn-around time, not fast enough for a 24-hour ascent. We turned to other objectives for the rest of the trip.

Other Stuff

Our favorite rest-day activity, counting heads on El-Cap

Key members of the team


Kyle reflects on The Shield. from Will Whitney on Vimeo.

Haulbag Olympics from Will Whitney on Vimeo.

Big Wall Forum / Re: carrying a fully loaded pig sucks!
« on: September 14, 2010, 12:20:24 pm »
It's not fully loaded as we're on the way down, but it does have the portaledge in it (which the announcer meant to say rather than "haulbag"). But yeah, carrying the pig sucks.

<iframe src="" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0"></iframe><p>Haulbag Olympics from Will Whitney on Vimeo.</p>

Big Wall Forum / Shipping a Haulbag/Ledge?
« on: June 30, 2010, 08:38:30 am »
I'm on the east coast. I've got dates for early September in valley and there is little to no chance that I'm going to use much of my wall gear before then. I've also got a climbing partner with a friendly uncle in San Jose. I want to ship a bunch of stuff (portaledge, Haulbag, haul line, etc) to the Uncle. How should I do this?

I don't care if it takes 2+ weeks to get there (provided it doesn't get lost). I do care if it costs more than it would on the airline as an extra bag. From what I can tell, a second bag (<50lbs) is normally about $35 extra, while bags 3-5 are somewhere around $100 to $125 each. So I'm looking for a shipping option that's less than $100.

Anyone got any advice? Thanks.

Big Wall Forum / Re: A5 Flys for sale over on Ebay
« on: April 23, 2010, 04:23:54 pm »
Thanks, I figured that was the answer, but I'm enough of a worry-wart that I thought I should check.

And I am gonna die for sure. As I understand it, it's just question of when.

Big Wall Forum / Re: A5 Flys for sale over on Ebay
« on: April 23, 2010, 03:52:39 pm »
I just grabbed one of the Anker double flys and am now fondling it in my office. I'm going to pair it with a BD double ledge.

As I've only used a (borrowed) Metolious ledge before, I've got a question about the Anker fly.  It seems that the attachment point for the fly is a piece of 1" webbing that runs through the stuff-sack, through the peak of the fly, and then forms a loop into which I assume you clip the ledge. While I'm sure a 1" strip of webbing is plenty strong etc etc... there's still something a little insubstantial about that set-up.

Obviously, when zonked out on the ledge I'm still going to have a back-up, etc etc ... but as I recall, the attachment point for the metolious fly + ledge was a little more confidence inspiring. I'm not misunderstanding something about this fly, am I?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Lead Rope Suggestions?
« on: March 23, 2009, 02:25:55 pm »
Thanks for the advice all. Looks like I'll be keeping my eyes open for a deal on the Yates 10.3 or the Bluewater Slimline Elite.

Big Wall Forum / Lead Rope Suggestions?
« on: March 20, 2009, 09:42:26 am »
I'm headed off to the valley in September and my partner and I are getting our gear list together. We're starting to look for good deals now. Among other things, we need a lead rope. I only have doubles (lots of trad and ice for the past few years). My partner's single line is beat. Based on experiences on the walls I have done (Trip, WC, Rainbow wall) I want about a 10.2 x 70. I'd settle for a 60 though. I'm in DC at the moment (I know... I know....), so if you have any suggestions for brick&mortar shops lemme know, otherwise I'm looking online.

I've been checking out this Beal Edlinger 10.2mm x 70M.

It seems to fit the bill, and is cheap. Cheap is good. But because I'm a wimp I'd like the rope to have some durability. Some online reports describe the rope as squishy, bouncy, and not so durable. I'm psychologically fragile enough as it is, I don't need the rope to add to my problems.

So, anyone have any favorite wall ropes? If you had to buy a new rope, which one would you get?

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