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Messages - johnmac

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121
Big Wall Forum / Re: WTB: Simple fly for A5 double ledge
« on: April 24, 2012, 09:29:43 pm »
yes, the ledge is 43 x 75. It is an alpine double. I have one. Best ledge ever made in my humble opinion.

If you goggle A5 catalog you can locate John's A5 catalog really easy. Print it out for future reference. Also on the Portatledge design discussion on this forum John has uploaded designs for flys so worse case, you could have one made. I"m sure Luke in Moab would help you out.


122
Big Wall Forum / Fish Hooks for sale
« on: April 18, 2012, 01:43:40 pm »
Set of fish hooks. Never used. 50.00 plus postage. Paypal only.

http://www.mountainproject.com/images/48/77/107564877_large_e774a1.jpg?1334778145

I ended up changing my mine and I donated the hooks to the Gordon Fest. They can be purchased via auction. Links are over at supertopo somewhere.

I've never met Todd and haven't climbed in JT in 20 years but I didn't want to miss out on an opportunity like this. Seems like a great guy and family.

123
Big Wall Forum / Re: Stuck knot in the lead line?
« on: April 06, 2012, 08:22:48 pm »
Like the post above, rather than using a clove hitch (Personally I think this is a bad idea) use one of the following to hold the weight of the rope:

1. use a long prussik cord to hold the weight of the rope. I typically tire a klemheist.
2. Use thick rubberbands (these will break if you come off)
3. Use thin velcro straps (these will break if you come off also)

With the silent partner I rarely "rebelay", but when I do I normally use 1/4 to 1/2 inch wide rubberbands (that i carry in one of my pockets) most of the time.

Cheers

John

124
Big Wall Forum / Re: A5 ledge for sale on ebay 450 buy now price
« on: March 26, 2012, 01:13:08 pm »
Here's another one....

http://mountainproject.com/v/a5-portaledg-double-wtwo-flys/107523685

I'm trying to buy the expedition fly

126
Big Wall Forum / Re: Lowe Ball nuts / Trango Ball Nutz
« on: March 21, 2012, 08:51:07 pm »
I use them all the time in my playground, that being Zion and Moab. Tricams are the other must piece.

To clean them you have to remember that the ball stays in place and you have you tap the bottom of the stopper up to get them to unseat. It's kind of counter intuitive, but once you get the idea they are not too hard to remove. Sometimes they become fixed gear!


127
Big Wall Forum / Re: Kong resting fifi
« on: March 21, 2012, 01:24:59 pm »
Yeah, the experinces of the Kong resting fifi seem to be really across the board. I think the diameter, surface texture, brand, etc of the cord just makes or breaks the deal! I have my system working well now but it took a lot of experimentation.




128
Big Wall Forum / Re: Kong resting fifi
« on: March 20, 2012, 09:32:18 pm »
Yes, that cord looks really soft and grippy.

129
Big Wall Forum / Re: Hooks
« on: March 20, 2012, 11:48:03 am »
I really need one of those new Pika hooks, but at 49.00 it can wait!


Only 42.00 form Pika directly. Are they back in business...

http://jblumental.photobiz.com/cart/product_list.cfm?categoryID=10373


130
Big Wall Forum / Re: Hooks
« on: March 19, 2012, 07:33:39 pm »

131
Big Wall Forum / Re: new Yosemite Bigwall Select book
« on: March 13, 2012, 12:39:24 pm »
Looks pretty extensive for a "select book" to me!

132
Big Wall Forum / Re: Securing the rope while Far End Hauling
« on: March 13, 2012, 07:09:20 am »
Oh, I got you now!

It has never really concerned me to this point, but I guess it all depends on how much weight and force that is going to apply. 10 pitches for me is a long route so I don't generally deal with a lot of the issues you do on El Cap. Most my stuff is two to four days.

133
Big Wall Forum / Re: Securing the rope while Far End Hauling
« on: March 12, 2012, 08:51:17 pm »
I'm trying to figure it out too. I've messed with the far end system a bunch of times and I've always rapped down on the lead line and then jugged up that line while raising the bags using the far end system. 

In this scenario I'm guessing the lead rope isn't available?

134
Big Wall Forum / Re: New Shop!
« on: March 12, 2012, 08:46:56 pm »
Wow, looks great... I can almost see the New "A5" ledge coming to the market soon... Lighter, stronger, faster, etc...

The old A5 double ledge is still the best one ever made. I don't know how many times people have offered to buy mine, especially when they compared it to the boat anchors of today.

135
Big Wall Forum / Re: Far end hauling
« on: March 07, 2012, 06:13:19 pm »
Make sure that the haul bag is really closed correctly and nothing sticks out. It should have a conical/pear like shape to it. This really helps. If it does get stuck, I lower the bag about a foot and try again. Often that does the trick. If the bag is still stuck, only then I'll use the Far end system. I never leave the ground without it set up ready to go when soloing. It's great for blocky terrain at the base of routes and also overlaps, roofs, etc. If I have to rap down to use the FE, I'll move it far enough to clear the obstacle and when I jug back to the anchor I don't have to do it again. I've yet to do it more than once on a pitch. I pay a lot of attention to the haul path.

I haul with a dynamic line as well.

136
Two Yates ladders is all I use and no daisies until it gets very steep or going over roofs...

When I do use a daisy I use the adjustable fifi.

Taylor your find that you're go through serveral iterations before you dial in your system. I'm always making slight changes from what other people are using. Sometimes I include their tricks sometimes I don't. Just depends on what works for me and my body length.

Have fun.

137
There are some nice looking Rivet Ladder Reachers... Neat Idea. Solves the issue of using an extension and then not being close to the rivet.

If I ever leave my life sucking job and have time to visit the valley again I might just have a buy a set....

139
Big Wall Forum / Re: I need a Silent Partner
« on: November 04, 2011, 05:24:15 pm »
Mark,

I can get these new at 35 percent off. Still have to pay some tax and postage but brand new. Email me if you want one.

Cheers

John

140
Big Wall Forum / Re: Zion or the Valley over Thanksgiving
« on: September 06, 2011, 07:57:07 am »
Late November is Zion can be pretty cold and the days are really short.

If you are climbing a route in the sun, like Touchstone, Maroni, etc  you will most likely enjoy good climbing conditions and it will be quite warm while climbing. At night you're want a good sleeping bag and a stove for hot drinks.

Lots of people do it, and I'm sure you won't have the the canyon to yourself. Pick a route that gets lots of sun and you're have a good time.

What route/s were you looking at?

141
Big Wall Forum / Re: High mileage guys on South Seas > PO
« on: September 06, 2011, 07:53:03 am »
Have a great trip!


142
Big Wall Forum / Re: Daisy Chains and Tethers
« on: August 31, 2011, 12:05:43 pm »
It might be 5.5 or 6mm for the fifi cord. It works well and doesn't slip.


143
Big Wall Forum / Re: WOS: The Film - Ammon ups the ante......again
« on: August 30, 2011, 08:39:28 pm »
I signed up the other day. This thing needs to be put to rest, so hopefully a film will help.

144
Big Wall Forum / Re: Daisy Chains and Tethers
« on: August 30, 2011, 08:38:20 pm »
My setup is a little different.

I don't use daisies on aiders until it gets hard or overhanging. I use one pair of Yates ladders. When I do need a daisy I use an adjustable fifi made by Kong on a piece of 5mm cord.

On my jugs I have one Yates adjustable for the top jug and a piece of 5mm cord with some strategically placed loops for the lower one. I also use this piece of cord as a temp daisy if needed for my ladders and at anchors. I use the rope as a backup most of the time to tie myself into the anchors. I often using the grigri and a backup knot incase I get some slack into the system.

I had some daisy chain falls BITD and just don't want to go through that again, so I would rather risk of the chance of dropping an aider. I carry a spare just in case, but I haven't dropped one in a very long time. Until you really have a daisy chain fall it's hard to think how hard they are, but a short fall of 3 or 4 feet can really knock the wind out of you.

145
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: My Gumby Adventure (and big fall)
« on: August 30, 2011, 08:24:22 pm »
Glad to hear that you are okay after that nasty full. Shit happens!

Getting off the daisy before you move and commit to the upper piece is the way to go. More chance for the rope to work as designed.

146
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Zodiac Solo Aug 9-13
« on: August 18, 2011, 07:31:47 am »
Most excellent. Thanks for the write up and sharing...

147
Big Wall Forum / Re: WOS book
« on: August 10, 2011, 06:47:17 pm »
Hey Cas,

I'm keen to read it as well. If you find a good second hand copy I'll split it 50/50 with you and after you read it post it to me. I can give you some money towards the postage as well.

Anyhow, just a thought.

Cheers

john


149
Big Wall Forum / Re: Kong Block Roll
« on: June 30, 2011, 12:24:30 pm »
Any update on how you have found using the Kong since purchasing it. Is it your "go to" hauling device now?

Thanks.

150
Big Wall Forum / Re: Zenyatta Mondatta, Solo, June 2011 Photos
« on: June 28, 2011, 09:30:46 pm »
Thanks.

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