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Messages - johnmac

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Please help me get a grant!
« on: January 09, 2011, 11:53:34 am »
Awesome video and TR.

Big Wall Forum / Re: portaledge threadworkers?
« on: December 16, 2010, 05:16:47 pm »
I'm after an alpine double as well.

Two were sold on Ebay the last couple of weeks, but I missed out on both of them.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Ebay Alert - A5
« on: December 14, 2010, 07:02:57 pm »
There is also a metolius single

Big Wall Forum / Ebay Alert - A5
« on: December 13, 2010, 11:39:18 am »
There is several items up on Ebay right now. A5 Ledge, replacement beds, fly's, etc.

Big Wall Forum / Re: bigwall first aid topic: QuikClot
« on: December 04, 2010, 05:44:56 pm »
Great idea. Thanks for sharing.

Big Wall Forum / Re: using a petzl shunt when riding the pig?
« on: December 04, 2010, 05:42:41 pm »
I use a french prusisk for a backup.

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: cross post Ammon and Kaitb on mescalito
« on: December 04, 2010, 05:41:19 pm »
I had no idea that people take that much cobra on elcap!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Popped my cherry!
« on: November 08, 2010, 05:31:46 pm »

Big Wall Forum / BW gear for sale over on
« on: October 26, 2010, 09:52:35 am »
Aider, haul bags, ledge, etc for sale over on

Cross post

The home made ledge looks great.

« on: October 19, 2010, 11:59:27 am »
wow, what an amazing effort...

Big Wall Trip Reports / Mini Wall TR - Zenyatta Entrada and Artist Tears
« on: October 02, 2010, 10:59:34 pm »
I posted up a mini TR with nice pics over on mountain project.

Zenyatta Entrada (C2+) and Artist Tears (C3)

Big Wall Forum / Re: carrying a fully loaded pig sucks!
« on: September 16, 2010, 11:51:00 am »
Climbing walls without some suffering just wouldn't be right!

Big Wall Forum / Re: A5 Expedition fly on a BD Cliff Cabana Double?
« on: September 14, 2010, 05:29:49 pm »
Ryan, much appreciated!

Big Wall Forum / Re: A5 Expedition fly on a BD Cliff Cabana Double?
« on: September 14, 2010, 09:28:49 am »
If you don't end up buying it and he/she wants to sell it please let me know. I've been trying to find one for several years!

Big Wall Forum / Re: A5 Expedition fly on a BD Cliff Cabana Double?
« on: September 13, 2010, 12:14:09 pm »
Where did you get the A5 Expedition fly from?

Big Wall Forum / Cross Post - BW Gear for sale, Yates aider, etc
« on: September 02, 2010, 05:33:08 pm »

Copy of post form

Clearing out some stuff to free up some space. Prices do not include shipping. PM me if u have any questions. Paypal works Best.

-Yates Speed Ladders (used) $40.00 for the Set
-Yates 6-step Wall Ladders $40.00 for the set
-1 set of Camalot C3s (grey-yellow) $200 for the set of 5 (will ship for free)
-2 BD Rope Buckets (great shape) $25.00 each
Yates belay seat $13.00
2 Wild Country #2 Tech Friends $30.00 each
Metolius gear sling (yellow) $13.00
Metolius Double D Gear sling (Black)$15.00
Red Metolius Rope Bag $22.00
13 Rivet Hangers (mostly yates) $18.00

I will add pictues and some more later on tonight.



Big Wall Forum / Re: The pussification of big wall climbing
« on: August 23, 2010, 11:27:53 am »
Well said Slakkey!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Jardine Traverse
« on: August 19, 2010, 01:04:24 pm »
Like I said over on Supertopo, if it is your first time up the Nose definately do the King Swing. It's these classic features that make such a great route. You will be disappointed later on if you don't.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Hand Care
« on: August 19, 2010, 08:53:45 am »
If you want to go the full finger glove option, try the mad rock wall gloves. They are really great.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Hand Care
« on: August 18, 2010, 08:24:15 pm »
Dermabond works wonderfully, but it is very expensive. I use nu skin that you can pick up at walgreens for about 5 bucks.

Big Wall Forum / Re: List of routes on Fifi buttress
« on: August 17, 2010, 09:36:01 am »
One of the reasons why I like this site over supertopo and others is the fact that we all seem to get along, share and help each other with techniques, routes, etc. Generally, we don't lay out personal attacks and I'd hate to see this site go down that road.

Maybe it would be best to contact Erik directly via his email address to discuss his bolting of new variations or replacing of anchors, etc.

We have all done things that at the time seemed liked a good idea, but on reflection weren't so smart. On face value it doesn't look like GSR was a good idea but I'm willing to wait and hear the full story before condeming him. I've learnt a lot from some of his posts over here and value his experience.

I would appreciate a good discussion about what has been going on, rather than the name calling and mud slinging.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Solo Tagging and Slippery Knot set up
« on: August 17, 2010, 08:05:53 am »

The screamer is attached directly to the powerpoint of the anchor. Just like it is in the drawnings that I sent you. Next time I'm out I'll take some photos.



Big Wall Forum / Re: Solo Tagging and Slippery Knot set up
« on: August 16, 2010, 07:38:32 pm »

One thing I do quite differently to you is how I set up my lead line. I basically create an inverted V using a sling which is held in place by a long klemheist knot so that it is always orientated for an upward pull. I then take a loop of lead line and attach a screamer to it.

Looking at your pictures, it appears that you have connected directly to the haul bag (for counter weight) and then a couple of bolts and then attached the screamer. You're reduced the number of parts to the anchor, biners, etc. Is this your reasoning?

To go along with this a while back in Zion I came across an anchor that a well known soloist had set up. The person had threaded the rope through the eyes of the drilled angles and tied it off. It eliminated any concern for gear, other than the rope cutting through the eyelets of the pins!



PS: How did you lead line stand up? Looks like a Yates. I'm about to buy a new wall rope later this week.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Solo Tagging and Slippery Knot set up
« on: August 14, 2010, 05:44:41 pm »
Thanks for the explanation.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Hudon?
« on: August 11, 2010, 09:03:51 pm »

Any chance of explaining your tagging system. It looked like a pretty clean system going by your photos.



Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Grape Race-Tribal Rite, Solo
« on: August 10, 2010, 10:15:45 pm »
Thanks for posting up over here. Love the close up shots of your systems and gear placements....

Big Wall Forum / Re: How many new portaledges are sold each year?
« on: August 03, 2010, 05:36:39 pm »
I'm sure Metolius, BD and Fish sell a bunch of these every year. They would have too, otherwise why would they go to the trouble, R and D, etc and manufacturing setup and cost. Less than a 500 but more than a 100? Fish would probably have a much smaller production run. It would be interesting for sure.

Another good question would be, how many portaledges purchased actually get on a wall.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Hand Care
« on: July 29, 2010, 09:46:17 pm »
The other thing to check out is a pair of mad rock full fingered gloves. These things are so soft and easy to wear that if your hands were really sore, you could climb in them all day!

Big Wall Forum / PsychoVertical Guides
« on: July 23, 2010, 01:22:13 pm »
Looks like Andy is doing some braindumps ....

Driven: A Piton Manual

Future titles include: Aiding, Winter, Knots, Down, Tips, Exped...

By the way if you haven't read PsychoVertical it is highly recommended....

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