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Messages - johnmac

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Andy Kirkpatrick's Zodiac climb
« on: July 23, 2010, 01:18:53 pm »
Bump for a great piece of writing...

Big Wall Forum / Re: Fish Ledge for sale over on
« on: July 23, 2010, 01:17:50 pm »
There is also a Metolius double ledge and fly for sale as well.

Big Wall Forum / Hand Care
« on: July 23, 2010, 12:51:04 pm »
Watching Mark's video's the other night it reminded me our critical the health of our hands are when big walling. I carry a small "hand care kit" that is separate to my first aid kit in the top pocket of the haul bag so I can get to it during the day. The idea is to fix things before they worsen...

? Ibuprofen 600mg tablets (Prescription)
? Small nail clippers
? Nail Board File
? Nu Skin (like superglue but safer)
? Climb On bar
? Wet ones
? 1? tape

Does anyone else use New Skin. I find it works pretty well for covering up small cuts and cracks around finger nails, etc. Stops air getting at them and hurting... Wears off fast but it helps. Dermabond works better but is really expensive.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Fish Ledge for sale over on
« on: July 23, 2010, 09:18:54 am »
I thought the price was pretty good. They're 900 bucks these days.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Yosemite Sport Climbs and Top Ropes
« on: July 21, 2010, 07:39:22 pm »
Rest days only!

Fish makes a great butt seat as well... called the rumpsak that folds into it's own pocket. Good for hanging belays when climbing with a partner.  23.00

Big Wall Forum / Yosemite Sport Climbs and Top Ropes
« on: July 20, 2010, 07:37:11 pm »
I'm sure I'll be flamed about posting this up here, but I was pleasantly surprised by this book. Initially I thought, "Who would buy it?"

Anyhow, I did a review over on mountainproject and just incase you don't ever go over there, here is a link to the review.


John Mac

Big Wall Forum / Re: Old dogs learning new tricks
« on: July 08, 2010, 09:22:44 pm »
Maybe Yates changed the webbing at some stage as I"ve I've had to replace the webbing on one adjustable daisy after 15/16 pitches due to excessive wear in one spot.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Any other OC Wall Rats?
« on: July 07, 2010, 04:59:47 pm »
I weigh everything and will go without luxuries to keep the weight down. I know exactly within a pound or two what the pig will weigh, the rack, ropes, etc. Probably because I came from a light and fast alpine climbing background I'm very particular about unnecessary gear weight. If you don't count the oz's you end up with pounds....

Whenever I'm soloing anything I find that I'm constantly moving and just don't have time to hang out at belays. However, I know people that use their ledges all the time to relax and reorg between pitches...

Big Wall Forum / Re: Metolius Gizmo Belay Ledge
« on: July 06, 2010, 12:57:09 pm »
Got any pictures of it in use. You got me thinking now!

Big Wall Forum / Andy Kirkpatrick's Zodiac climb
« on: July 06, 2010, 10:53:54 am »
Andy posted this earlier this morning ... a nice piece of writing about his speed solo ascent of Zodiac...

Big Wall Forum / Re: A haul bag tip
« on: July 02, 2010, 08:00:34 am »
Thanks for sharing this tip. It's amazing what you can do with a bit of cord and some mechanical advantage!

Big Wall Forum / Re: which ones...
« on: July 01, 2010, 12:16:33 pm »
I use two yates ladders and carry a yates speed ladder when a extra one is required.

I don't use daisies on C1/2. When I do use dailes I have standard daisy and one yates adjustable.

I use the same two daisies when jugging, the same aiders, so for me it is a light and quick system.

I've climbed with people that have aiders and daisies for climbing and then a totally different set for jugging. No much crap for me.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Tony Montana! Tell us a story!
« on: June 30, 2010, 07:10:03 pm »
Man ... what a great looking corner! More pics please.

Big Wall Forum / Re: wall Shoes
« on: June 24, 2010, 02:37:34 pm »
Anyone tried anything new for wall shoes lately?

I'm still trying to find that compromise between between a rock shoe and a cheap boot.  My favourite is still five ten guide tennies, but they just stand up too well to abuse.

Mark, what did you where on your recent elcap trip?

Big Wall Forum / Re: swivel me pigs?
« on: June 20, 2010, 05:01:54 pm »
If there is a lot of lowering out I like have a swivel. However, if it is pretty much straight up and down, I don't bother since it just adds more complexity and potential weak points to the system.

Big Wall Forum / Re: "Yo" to Mark Hudon, new BW.c member
« on: June 20, 2010, 05:00:28 pm »
Congratulations Mark! 12 days, wow, that's an amazing effort.

Looks like you were really enjoying your time up there and totally at peace.

Non Climbing (if you must) / Re: Surprised no one has snapped this up
« on: June 16, 2010, 08:22:46 pm »
I'd love to buy it, but this week I just had to buy new tires (Conti Race kings) for a race I have on saturday so I just can't afford it. I also don't really need it and Mark Hudon just hauled 200 plus pounds without one so it's hard to justify.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Deep Water
« on: June 13, 2010, 09:33:28 pm »
Just saw it on instant play on Netflix. Thanks.

I read a book about this race years ago and the documentary really brought out the mindset well.

Big Wall Forum / Re: "Yo" to Mark Hudon, new BW.c member
« on: June 02, 2010, 12:52:59 pm »
Looking good up there Mark!

We are all down here helping you with the hauling...

One of the main reasons why I switched over to a silent partner was due to those mandatory free sections...

Cross post from

New ledges for sale.

450 is the asking price but it has been up for a couple of days so you might be able to talk them down.

Asking 400, same as above been on the site a couple days...

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Gold Wall Etc. TR Link
« on: May 26, 2010, 08:15:42 am »

You point about "waiting" before bailing I think is the key... often the decision making isn't that logical, until you take time and think about it.


Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Gold Wall Etc. TR Link
« on: May 25, 2010, 01:19:24 pm »
Thanks for posting up and sharing your trip on the prow.

I've bailed for no reason as well. Happens from time to time and it seems to me that I haven't made up my mind before starting up that I really want to do it. Then the sore hands or a stuck bag, or slower than normal progress starts the eventual descent.

On my last solo, everything was going fine and I was one pitch down from my goal of the day and had about 6 hours of daylight left. I sorted out the gear, got everything set up ready to lead and just felt tired and worn out, so I made a quick decision to thread the ropes and rapp.

I should have just stayed where I was and had some food and given it half an hour before making a decision. Need to remember that next time.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Far end hauling
« on: May 18, 2010, 02:22:57 pm »
I have some pictures at home I can post up tonight.

I've used the far end several times and it's been a life saver.

Simple far end setup prior to leaving the ground.

far end set up for hauling form the far end of the rope, when bag is stuck, etc. This one has swivel, but its not worth the hassle.


Big Wall Forum / Metolius Gizmo Belay Ledge
« on: April 07, 2010, 01:54:19 pm »
In the latest MGear catalog, the Metoluis Gizmo Belay Ledge

Basically a 20.5 x 39.5 portaledge... 5lbs 7oz for 390 dollars... recommended for Big Wall pushes!

Anyone seen one... Seems really expensive to me.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Prototype H.W.G. Mace Hammer
« on: April 07, 2010, 01:40:58 pm »
Looks like some neat innovation going on there...

Do you have a web site so we can look at your other products?

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