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Messages - johnmac

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31
Big Wall Forum / Re: Blue Collar V A3 - Hourglass Wall - Yosemite
« on: May 22, 2014, 12:58:20 pm »
Congratulations on the FA.

32
Big Wall Forum / Re: Totem Cams
« on: May 21, 2014, 05:11:36 pm »
backcountrygear, mgear all have them shipping now or by the 25th...

Finally ....

33
Big Wall Forum / Re: The New Yosemite Bigwall Guide
« on: May 03, 2014, 07:25:14 pm »
Mine arrived in the mail today. Congrats on a fantastic book.

34
You can't drop a line like "Posting from my portaledge" without letting us know the location.



35
Big Wall Forum / Re: The New Yosemite Bigwall Guide
« on: May 01, 2014, 08:38:09 am »
Posted up someone on the home page of mountain project under announcements. Hopefully that will help to spread the word...

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/108922181

It will show up at the top of the list in about 10 minutes or so.


36
Thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated.

37
The solar wrap you are using is that the Bushnell's Solarwrap 250? If so, would you recommend it? Thanks.

38
Big Wall Forum / Re: Kong block roll or 2:1 ratchet or both or what?
« on: April 18, 2014, 12:58:43 pm »
The stuff I do in Zion I use a 1:1. Most of the time it is two nights out, sometimes three. I can carry everything in one metolius half dome haul bag. I don't take any luxuries since I came from an alpine climbing background.

39
Big Wall Forum / Re: Kong block roll or 2:1 ratchet or both or what?
« on: April 17, 2014, 07:02:53 am »
Wes,  I haven't ever used one of these devices, but I've been tempted to buy one for a long time. The reason why I haven't is that it is a very specialized piece of equipment, whereas, using a more traditional 2:1 system, (especially now that Mark Hudon has refined and shared how to rig it property), seems a much more versatile system to me. Also having the extra pulleys, etc., provides a lot of options.

Sure, some people swear by it and I suspect they tag it up after they lead the pitch. I suspect that the only real way to figure out what works best for you is to try them one after the other with a heavy load (say 200lbs) at a crag or gym.

40
Big Wall Forum / Re: The Big Wall Gear Closet
« on: April 09, 2014, 07:28:36 pm »
I'm sure that you and Luke will great job!

41
Big Wall Forum / Re: Need to get in shape for big wallin.
« on: April 09, 2014, 01:55:44 pm »
I'm surprised that Mark didn't say something about wrestling with Crocs or Alligators...

42
I like the quick link idea that you are using on your aiders. I use another locking biner but it gets in the way. The quick link looks a lot smaller. Its hard to see whether it is a Petzl Maillon which is about 2 inches by 1 or whether it is the home depot version. I think the home depot version has a working strength of about 800lbs ....


43
Big Wall Forum / Re: The Big Wall Gear Closet
« on: April 03, 2014, 08:09:06 pm »
The Hudon BW Gear Closet is a Great Idea.... I want one!

44
Fantastic effort and a great TR to boot!

Inspiring stuff.

What's next?

45
Big Wall Forum / Re: Backcountrygear 20 percent off one full item
« on: March 19, 2014, 11:31:34 am »
Some great news on the Totem cam front....

I'm Mikel from Totem.
 We plan to restart the commercialization in US on May 2014.
 The problem in 2013 was that we were not be able to manufacture as we planned. We underestimated the complexity of production in bigger quantities. This fact leads to important delays in deliveries in all over the world. We have been investing those months to improve our manufacturing processes and management and we have done important progress on it. We changed our factory location also to another bigger one.
 I apologize to every people who expected to have the Totem products in their hand last year and was not be able to do so.
 Regards.

46
Big Wall Forum / For sale: Big wall boots
« on: March 18, 2014, 08:14:45 pm »
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/fs-big-wall-boots/108756586

Size 10.5. 30 obo plus postage.

They are one size too large and packing them out with an insole and extra socks just doesn't work.

47
Big Wall Forum / Re: Backcountrygear 20 percent off one full item
« on: March 18, 2014, 07:14:44 pm »
I'd love to buy a yellow and blue totem cam but I can't find them anywhere...

48
Big Wall Forum / Backcountrygear 20 percent off one full item
« on: March 18, 2014, 08:30:20 am »
Backcountry gear has a 20 percent off coupon right now. The code is MARCH20.

They have a red totem cam available.

49
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: "Horns of Jericho" Direct Variation FA TR
« on: March 07, 2014, 09:15:47 pm »
Makes you really appreciate how much work goes into a FA doesn't it!

I enjoyed your writing as well.

50
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: "Horns of Jericho" Direct Variation FA TR
« on: March 07, 2014, 02:32:53 pm »
Congrats on the successful FA and thanks a bunch for sharing it with us.

51
Big Wall Forum / Re: Using old Lowe Hummingbird as Aid Hammer
« on: February 04, 2014, 08:56:48 am »
They great looking hummingbird's. They collector items!

No need to pay full piece for a BD hammer, as you can pick them up easily second hand. If all you want is a hammer for removing stuck wires, etc., by tapping a nut took against them or placing the odd pin, then just buy a 8oz ball pein hammer from a hardware store and attach a sling to it. Should cost about 10 dollars.

52
Big Wall Forum / Re: New big wall shoe?
« on: January 31, 2014, 07:26:18 am »
I like the idea of a little bit of ankle protection ...

by the way you can get 50 percent off five tennies right now...

http://shopfiveten.com/C-99/Specials

Ends Today Jan 31

53
Big Wall Forum / Re: New big wall shoe?
« on: January 28, 2014, 04:40:21 pm »
Yes, I think they definitely worth checking out.

54
Big Wall Forum / New big wall shoe?
« on: January 28, 2014, 03:44:46 pm »
I saw this review over on mp.com and wonder if anyone had seen it ...

http://theinspiredclimber.com/2014/01/27/review-guide-tennie-mid-high-top/

I really like the current five tennies but sometimes wish it was a little bit more supportive.

55
Big Wall Forum / Re: Upgraded site...
« on: January 27, 2014, 01:35:44 pm »
Looks great. Very clean! 

Thanks.

56
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Atlantic Ocean Wall photos
« on: November 13, 2013, 12:17:46 pm »
Great shots... many thanks.

Note to self: "Buy at least 2 sets of totem cams"

57
Learning I would think the times you posted are fine. Speed will come later.

If I'm climbing with a partner we tend to average about 4 pitches a day. Sometimes we do more sometimes we do less.

A typical pitch usually takes about 1hr to 1hr 15 to lead when I'm going at a comfortable all day speed. I can go faster but I tend to start to drop things and at the end of the day it really isn't worth the extra effort. Cleaning usually takes about 20 to 30 minutes. Tidy the rack as we go but not too fussy. Where most of the time can be saved isn't so much in the leading or cleaning but the changeover...

58
Big Wall Forum / Re: Breaker cord?
« on: November 04, 2013, 04:48:51 pm »
Maybe it wasn't clipped in or the hook fully seated? It be nice to have some details but I suspect it won't be forthcoming...

59
Big Wall Forum / Re: Breaker cord?
« on: November 04, 2013, 11:47:02 am »
The one time I did it I used a piece of cord as well as the "weak link" between me and the haul line.

I think if you are going to hook the haul bag then the slippery knot technique that Mark shared is the way to go. 

60
Big Wall Forum / Re: Native Son fixing length question.
« on: October 27, 2013, 09:13:29 am »
Wishing you some good weather for your trip.

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