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Messages - johnmac

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Big Wall Forum / Re: Portaledge Single or Double, who to buy from?
« on: August 13, 2009, 08:41:49 am »
I always use a double, even if I'm buy myself. The difference in weight is very little.

My perference for ledges are:

1. A5 Double - JM's design I still think is the best. (Advertise on SP, Mountainproject, etc and you should be able to get one)
2. Fish Double Whammy
3. Probably BD

I just have a standard fly, but every seem has been covered with seem sealant and I've sprayed the outside nylon as well.  I set it up outside and put the hose on it to confirm that it was waterproof.

I would like to put up the 4 season fly where the ledge is inside the the fly, but haven't found one yet. Anyone got one?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Dunn-Westbay Beta
« on: August 12, 2009, 01:33:14 pm »
You wouldn't happen to work in a shop in Golden?

Yeah, I think the reference to the 300 pounds was the metolius adjustables. I'm sure the yates and Fish are much much stronger. They are going to get pulled so we will have some numbers soon.

Thanks for the feedback.

I might take another look at using an adjustable for the pig, etc.

I've just seen a fish and yates adjustable to A. Datesman to test. There is a thread over on the taco about their true breaking strain. Some people are staying 300 lbs...

Big Wall Forum / Re: Metolius Quarterdome Haul Bag - Anyone got one
« on: August 12, 2009, 08:37:40 am »
I cover all the black trim with gray or white duct tape. Seems to help a lot. I suppose you could paint the black cloth?

Bye the way if you don't already know, walgreens usually stocks white duct tape!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« on: August 11, 2009, 09:07:19 pm »

Yes, very true.

But, I will have to disagree with you in some regard to some gear reviews.. With the exemption of my latest review (Zion guide book, Chris sent me a free copy) all the reviews I've done over on mountain project, I have personally paid for the product and received no compensation...  That's included cams, such as c3's, TCU's, Fish products, etc. I haven't done much lately just because I haven't been able to afford to buy anything that would be interesting to readers. Reviews in the mags tend to be pretty weak.


Big Wall Forum / Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« on: August 11, 2009, 02:27:10 pm »
I'm not sure why companies continue to make products without any input from testing or RD. Its like the evolve Maxim's, talk about a shoe that is specifically designed to cook your feet!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« on: August 11, 2009, 01:58:21 pm »
Thanks Mike, you just saved me a bunch of money....

Big Wall Forum / Re: Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« on: August 11, 2009, 09:50:11 am »
Anyone ever seen the boreal wall boots that Mtn Tools sells. They're expensive as hell but maybe they would work.  I'm sure you could get them from Europe for a good price once you had your sizing right.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Metolius Quarterdome Haul Bag - Anyone got one
« on: August 10, 2009, 08:58:28 pm »
No chance of going Peteish! I go as light as possible and hence all the haul bags I try to take the smallest bag as possible.... If you take a large haul bag you will fill it!

Thanks for the feedback.

Big Wall Forum / Sportiva Tradmasters as wall shoes
« on: August 10, 2009, 08:34:31 pm »
Well, my test of using LaSportiva Tradmasters as a wall shoe failed.

The shoe has enough support lengthwise and wearing them a size larger than my normal shoes made them very comfortable, but the arch is where the issue was. The shoe is cut away under to the arch and even standing in yates ladders my arches were starting to get sore in a 10 minutes. A hour later I was tearing them off... I hate to think what they would feel like if I was using my light aider set up.

Putting inserts in the shoes didn't help either as they took up too much volume and started to cause problems for my toes...

I'm back to using my five tennies with inserts and carrying a pair of slippers for when I need to do free climbing that is above my comfort level in my sloppy shoes. I would really like to find something that I could do both in and avoid carrying an extra pair of shoes... Luckily I was able to recoop my costs.

So the quest continues for the perfect wall boot!

Big Wall Forum / Metolius Quarterdome Haul Bag - Anyone got one
« on: August 10, 2009, 08:18:34 pm »
I've got a opportunity to buy one for a very good price (about half retail) and wondered what everyone's thoughts on it where.

Is it big enough for say a grade 5 route? Is it a useful size?

I'm not worried about quality, etc, since I've already got a sentinel, an Half dome and an El cap!



Big Wall Forum / Standard to Adjustables and now back to standard dasies
« on: August 10, 2009, 12:25:59 pm »
Has anyone else done this...

Gone from standard daisies to adjustables and then back to standard daises after a few years...

I've pretty much come full circle and have gone back to using standard daisers for everything, including jugging, anchoring, aiders, etc.

I like the adjustables, but ...

When I switched back to using standard daises I really noticed the differience in weight. Sure, it might be only a few ounces but I tend to really notice it when jugging...

Fraying webbing
The Yates buckle/webbing combination wears out really fast and you end up having to replace the webbing after a wall or two. Not a big deal, but it frays before your eyes....

As a docking system for haul bags
I've gone back to using a piece of 8mm for this... just so much lighter and has more options

Likewise with aiding. I don't use daisies on aiders until about c3 and when I do using the old system is just so much cleaner and lighter...

A couple of times my buckle has slipped and given me a hell of a fright!

So, I've gone full circle back to my old systems. Its cheaper, lighter and with a bit of practice just as easy to use. Weight all that stuff up and it starts to add up. I've also gone from 4 aiders to 2 ladders, big weight difference there too!

Anyone else done this or am I the only screwball here?

Big Wall Forum / Zion Climbing Free and Clean book review
« on: August 03, 2009, 06:48:17 am »

Big Wall Forum / Re: Supertopo Zion Guide Available
« on: July 24, 2009, 10:53:54 am »
No I don't see it listed.

The boulders in the guide are:

The Globe Boulder (entrance boulder)
Drilled Pocket Boulder
Cracked boulder
Road house boulder
Pine Creek Boulders

Approximately break down of routes by grade:

5.5 - 1
5.6 - 1
5.7 - 14
5.8 - 16
5.9 - 26
5.9+ - 7
5.10- 15
5.10 - 70
5.10+ - 32
5.11- - 40
5.11+ - 40
5.12- - 6
5.12 - 15
5.12+ - 9
5.13- - 2
5.13 - 4
5.13+ 1

Aid routes:
There are 25 aid routes in the book the eaiset being Moonlight at 5.9 C1 and hardness Swoop Gimp at 5.9 C3

I could probably find time to list them if anyone wants them.

Big Wall Forum / Supertopo Zion Guide Available
« on: July 24, 2009, 10:00:24 am »
I just finished printing all 232 pages of the new zion guide.

It looks pretty amazing, but quite different from the usual sp guide book. There route information is more than adequate but not pitch by pitch like we are used too with sp guides. The quality of the pictures, route drawings, layout and presentation is stellar. Really nice to see plenty of space devoted to history. Some nice pieces written by JM and Mike Anderson.

You can get a copy over on supertopo

Zion Climbing Free and Clean is the most comprehensive climber?s guide to Zion National Park, arguably one of the most beautiful national parks in the United States. Inside you will find up-to-date information on more than 250 free climbs and 25 of Zion?s best clean aid climbs, plus pictures and directions to the park?s most popular bouldering areas. Detailed coverage ranges from 10-foot boulder problems to 2000-foot epic free climbs, making this compilation of stories, maps, and history the best guide available to Zion.

Special Offer - get a FREE print book and Save 25% - expires after August 9

Order a Zion Climbing eBook and receive a free Zion Climbing print book (ships August 7). Not only do you get a free print book, but you get free shipping and no sales tax (a 25% savings). Offer expires after August 9. This is an especially great deal if you live outside the United States because with free shipping you save almost $13.00.

Big Wall Forum / Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« on: July 23, 2009, 09:20:29 am »
Good to see another offset opiton out there...

I have a set of TCU offsets and two sets of alien offsets so right now I don't see myself buying anymore at this stage, but its great to see them being offered.

i haven't taken to master cams personally yet and still would rather use aliens for aid.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Zion, when to go there?
« on: July 23, 2009, 09:11:17 am »
If you want any specific route information shoot me an email.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Zion, when to go there?
« on: July 23, 2009, 09:06:58 am »
Zion in August will be very hot and subject to afternoon storms. The dark rock will almost burn your hands and you will bake. Believe me I've been there.

I like either March/April or Late September/October.

Let me know what routes you are looking at and I can probably tell you how much shade they get.

Some ideas:

Ashtar Tower. It is a free standing tower on the right when driving towards the tunnel - just before you get to the ranger tunnel station (heading North/East bound)

Pulpit: Gets good shade in the late afternoon.

Iron Mesiah - will get some shade.

The Organ would have morning shade.

Shane Buttress.

iigut be okay

I know that Prodigal sun gets the shade from early September.

From another post  Mike Anderson recommended:

For cragging, the "Cragmont" area (near the tunnel) is shady and not closed. There are a number of shady wall routes. The Kolob area has the advantage of being at a significantly higher elevation, and thus cooler. A few North facing walls in Kolob that come to mind are Golden Years, and Catharsis on Shuntavi Butte, and the Thunderbird Wall on Timbertop Mesa. Those are all very climbable this time of year. There are some walls in the N and middle forks of Taylor creek that would be shady, but they may be closed and I don't have first hand info. There are also two badass routes on shady walls somewhere in Zion that I know of, but I won't be posting until I get the FFA.

In the main canyon, Shune's Buttress is shady most of the day, and it kicks ass. The Watchman is shady most of the day, and the Temple of Sinawava routes don't get much sun. Have fun!

Big Wall Forum / Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« on: July 22, 2009, 09:49:24 pm »
The new metolius portaledge is 2 x 4 feet in size and will retail for 395.00...

Sounds more like a comfy belay seat to me!

Big Wall Forum / Re: New Wall Gear for 2010
« on: July 21, 2009, 01:18:17 pm »
Thanks for the inside scoop... Time to go and start selling gear on Ebay to finance some new stuff!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Portaledge Design Discussion
« on: July 13, 2009, 03:47:16 pm »
If you need any detailed photos let me know as I have an A5 double ledge and could easily take some pics for you.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Ascenders
« on: July 13, 2009, 09:44:44 am »
The only bad thing I've heard about the BD ascenders is that they have a tendency to pinch the bottom of the little finger. This is from a person I know that uses them not from personal experience. Too many moving parts for me.

Big Wall Forum / Re: New way to do a adjustable daisy...
« on: July 07, 2009, 06:04:15 pm »
Thanks Caz.

Big Wall Forum / Re: New way to do a adjustable daisy...
« on: July 07, 2009, 12:20:14 pm »
Has anyone seen an update or any photos of this yet?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Where is the very best rock for Big Walls?
« on: July 02, 2009, 09:37:23 am »
Actually there is some great wall climbing in NZ but it tends its self to fast alpine that slow heavy ascents in the ditch. The Darrens in particular have some great old Bill Denz test pieces. However, the weather can be pretty changeable and I've spent weeks down there only got a handful of fine days to climb. March is the best time of year.

Best rock would have to be yosemite.

Big Wall Forum / Re: G-Money Zion
« on: June 26, 2009, 01:07:44 pm »

Days of No Future are G Money are a couple hundred yards to the right of PS on Angels Landing. Both routes go are supposed to go around c3 or slightly harder and the rock is supposed to be a little softer. I couldn't find topos for them at the Park HQ and are just working off Eric Draper's Angels Landing poster right now. I'll check the  Zion's Rock Guides store when I'm down there next.

Big Wall Forum / Re: G-Money Zion
« on: June 26, 2009, 12:26:24 pm »
How about Days of No Future?

i can't be the only person on this forum that climbs in Zion? 

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