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Messages - johnmac

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Big Wall Forum / Re: wall Shoes
« on: December 30, 2008, 02:52:50 pm »

The maximus are 59.58 at backcountry outlet. They have limited sizes.

Big Wall Forum / Re: wall Shoes
« on: December 30, 2008, 02:40:09 pm »
Did you get the extra toe rand and stiff sole as well?

Big Wall Forum / Re: "The Sharp End" Trailer
« on: December 30, 2008, 02:32:57 pm »
I wrote a sort of review of the movie ....

I must be showing my age as i thought it was pretty much over the top and some of the best footage was in the extras....

Big Wall Forum / Re: Wall Hammocks
« on: November 25, 2008, 12:39:06 pm »
I have a wall hammock (I think Forrest sewn it) and its works pretty well for one night stands. If you intend to climb through the evening and only catch a couple of hours sleep it works pretty well. I have poles to prevent the compression of the shoulders. It ways at the most a couple of pounds.

However, it teaches you to really appreciate a portaledge!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Guideing
« on: November 20, 2008, 11:52:09 am »
I guided professionally until my early 40's and would definitely recommend getting in touch with the AMGA if you are serious about going down this road. It takes a lot of commitment and dedication but getting UIAGM/IFMAGA qualified makes it very much worth it, especially if you want to travel and work aboard in Canada, Europe, etc.

Email me if you have any questions.

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: The Shield - solo Photo TR 10/08
« on: November 18, 2008, 11:06:56 am »

Thanks for posting up this awesome TR... Amazing stuff.



Big Wall Forum / Re: Old timer, coming back...
« on: October 22, 2008, 12:56:36 pm »
Welcome back.

I did the same thing ... dropped out for about 10 years and having a blast the second time around...

Ascenders: I tried the BD ascender but found that they weren't a good fit for my hands. If you have large bear paws they will probably work well, but if you have smaller hands then they just too damn big. The other thing is that I found that I the bottom of my small finger would sometimes get pinched a little in the join.  The yellow jumars are fine until you want to replace them with something a little bit more comfortable.

Harness: I brought the BD wall harness at while back and I'm very happy with it. I'm in the process of writing a rewiew on over on and I'll post it up there when I've got it done.

Wall hauler: I use the petzl protraxion. Never had a problem with it. Just got to make sure you attach it with a short sling so it can move about freely and doens't get twised. I don't do massive loads.

DMM Offsets and TCU Offsets are great, especially in places like Zion.



Big Wall Forum / Re: wall Shoes
« on: July 14, 2008, 10:51:36 am »

Big Wall Forum / FS: TNF/A% single ledge fly brand new
« on: July 14, 2008, 10:47:43 am »
Cross post over from ...

Standard A5/north face single portaledge fly. Brand new still with tags in the bag. If you have an A5 single ledge this is your chance to get an extra fly for the long run. I can also include an extra bed for your ledge.

asking $150 OBO for the fly.
will bargain with bedding included

Big Wall Forum / Re: Silent Partner field usage feedback here
« on: June 01, 2008, 07:46:10 pm »
Sounds like there could be something wrong with your setup. Make sure the ropes feeds from the top of the roller. It should feed real smooth.

I've been using the sp for a couple years now and it feeds very well. I use either a 10.2 or a 10.5 rope. It needs to be non fuzzy.

I've tried lots of different devices and keep coming back the sp, since it works so well.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rope of choice?
« on: April 30, 2008, 08:36:49 pm »
mammut supersafe. A good combination of weight and durability.

Big Wall Forum / Re: DMM peanuts!!!
« on: April 16, 2008, 03:22:00 pm »
The HB's brass wires are great in yosemite or the like, but in zion they can rip straight through the rock.

The peanuts are no HB brass replacement, they're too big for that, but they are really nice in standstone when you need a offset shap and larger surface area to ensure you don't break fragile features.

Big Wall Forum / Re: DMM peanuts!!!
« on: April 16, 2008, 02:34:54 pm »
I use them in Zion all the time. They have a larger surface area than some other smaller offsets.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rope flying out of the bag when soloing!!!???
« on: April 14, 2008, 01:54:50 pm »
The other thing you could do is sew a "neck gaitor" into the top of the bags so that it constricts the rope bucket to create the friction. The snake charmer doesn't have any drawnstring so you would have to make this.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rope flying out of the bag when soloing!!!???
« on: April 14, 2008, 12:24:58 pm »
Fish Snake Charmer. Continous loop, but it still hapens with seperate loops.

Doesn't take much of a traverse away from the bag, just 15/20ft.

I use the same system.

The only thing I can think of at this stage is to take the rope with you which would suck, but might be better in the long run. (I have a friend who swears on carrying the ropes with him at all times and has a very slim pack for one of the ropes that feeds out and the other is in a rope bag clicked to his harness.)

I have only done this a couple of times before in very windy situations and although it made managing the rope eaiser, I didn't like the extra weight of the rope and I'm thinking that there must be a simplier and better way of doing this...

Big Wall Forum / Re: BD Big Gun Harness
« on: April 14, 2008, 12:14:30 pm »
Thanks for the update. I'm going to pick one up later today or tomorrow.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Rope flying out of the bag when soloing!!!???
« on: April 13, 2008, 05:59:16 pm »
Just wondering what sort of bag/s are you using and also are you using a continuous loop or separate ropes.

I haven't experienced this issue (yet) since I haven't soloed anything that is widely overhanging or with long traverses...


Big Wall Forum / Re: Dealing with sharp edges and soloing
« on: April 11, 2008, 01:53:31 pm »
I use a similiar system with long klemheist slings for sharp/bad edges that I stole from PTPP.

If there are no sharp edges I use a couple of rubberbands per pitch to hold the rope up. The rubberbands work really well and are quicker than setting up the klemheist. I just carry half a dozen of the 1/4 wide sort in a pocket. I pick them up on the way down so I rarely break them. I stole this idea as well!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Aliens for sale over at
« on: April 10, 2008, 08:54:46 am »
Yeah, it reads a bit like that doesn't it... Trust me it won't lead yu astray!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Best method for hauling multiple bags
« on: April 09, 2008, 10:31:42 pm »
Great pic!

Big Wall Forum / Aliens for sale over at
« on: April 09, 2008, 10:29:34 pm »
Set of 7 aliens for sale, or 40 each. They all been tested. Not mine, just cross posting the info.

By the way I picked up a couple hybrid aliens at WindyX yesterday. They have more in stock if anyone is looking...

Big Wall Forum / Re: Kong Block Roll
« on: April 09, 2008, 05:02:32 pm »

How is the ascender attached to the plate. From the photos I've seen it looks like it would pop off. Is this correct.



Big Wall Forum / Re: My Russian Aiders came yesterday
« on: April 08, 2008, 04:06:50 pm »

Big Wall Forum / Re: Kong Block Roll
« on: April 08, 2008, 02:37:52 pm »
Thanks for the info...

How much it cost?

Big Wall Forum / BD Big Gun Harness
« on: April 08, 2008, 10:56:27 am »
Anyone tried this out yet? Thanks. John

Big Wall Forum / Re: My Russian Aiders came yesterday
« on: April 08, 2008, 09:15:16 am »
Thanks for the update on the Russian Aiders. I think I'll try get some later this year. I just brought a pr of 7 step Yates ladders for 45 bucks so I've got to try them out first.

Where did you get the Kong Roll Block from, price and what does it actually weigh?



Big Wall Forum / Re: Metolius Master Cam reveiw (cross post)
« on: April 07, 2008, 12:24:15 pm »
Good point about the thiner cams...

Big Wall Forum / Metolius Master Cam reveiw (cross post)
« on: April 07, 2008, 07:49:36 am »

Big Wall Forum / Re: My Russian Aiders came yesterday
« on: March 25, 2008, 06:25:59 pm »
Thanks for the input.

I'm still sitting on the fence regarding Russian aiders so I'll be looking forward to hearing your experience on a wall.

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