Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - johnmac

Pages: 1 ... 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 [16] 17
Would anyone be interested in measuring their tube lengths and taking some pictures of various tube pieces and connectors so I can better see how they are constructed?


I have the NF/A5 dobule ledge so I could do that for you. I probably won't get around to it until the end of the week. Do you want me to email you the pics and specs or post it up here. Email is probably quicker for me.


macmoo2 at mac dot com

are the superlights you refer to the Metolius TCU's?

Yes, I"m referring to the Metolius Superlight TCU's.

My favourite allround cams are the C4's for sure, but I like having some TCU's as well!

It can takes years to build up a large aid rack, especially if you have mortgage and other responsibilities. For a long time I purchased one cam a month to slowly build up my rack. Its amazing how it grows over a period of time.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Big Wall Wiki is screwed up
« on: June 11, 2007, 07:25:41 pm »
Thanks for taking care of this...

In the people section, the entry for Jim Bridwell is screwed up also.

Great discussion...

As far as a second set, just buy another set of what you already have. I personally would stick with the C4's. Regarding Aliens, C3's, and TCU's I have one set of each of them and find that I tend to use them for different situations.

The superlight tcus are very light and easy to add to a rack without adding noticeable weight. They are also good "leave it pieces" while you are aid jumaring up a crack etc. I've also found some places where they will fit, weird pods etc, where I haven't been able to get a c4 to stick. The price is right too as you can pick them up often on sale considerably less than c4s. I hoping to buy some of the hybrids when I find some on sale.

Aliens, these are pretty much essential. Sure, there are concerns about them and the quality isn't the best but they will work where nothing else works.

I really like C3's and these tend to be my preferred small crack cam now. I don't find the stiffness of the housing too much of a concern for most placments. If I need more flexibility than the aliens come out. The C3's inspire confidence in the manufacturing, whereas the alien's its hard to know so right now until all the dust settles on the current failures I'm using aliens for aid only.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Tom's El Cap Updates
« on: May 31, 2007, 09:21:43 am »
Well, I wish that was my problem, rather than reading it from the confines of my cage, sorry I mean cube! Or as management calls it here "personal workspace."

Big Wall Forum / Re: Tom's El Cap Updates
« on: May 29, 2007, 09:57:56 pm »
Yeah, they're pretty amazing and the pics are totally awesome. I'm becoming additive to them. First thing in the morning when I get to work, I do is check to see if there are any updates for the day and then look thru my supertopo pdf to sort out where everyone is!

I wonder if Tom could be talked into coming down to Zion sometime?

Big Wall Forum / Re: possible new wall boot... on sale, mgear
« on: May 06, 2007, 09:52:31 pm »
Has anyone tried the Kayland Spider approach shoes. They're a high top. There is a pair on Ebay that I'm looking at buying if I can get them real cheap...


Big Wall Forum / Re: Hanging Stoves
« on: May 06, 2007, 09:50:05 pm »
Thanks for the pics ... makes sense now!

Big Wall Forum / Big Wall Wiki is screwed up
« on: May 01, 2007, 09:52:02 pm »
I just when to look at the big wall wiki and some of the main sections have been hijacked. They're now fall of links to viagra and other stuff. When a piss off!

Big Wall Forum / Re: home climbing walls
« on: May 01, 2007, 04:35:10 pm »
I got the holds from wilderness exchange unlimited in Denver. They're one of the main distributors of seconds for Metolius. Once they're on the wall you don't know they're seconds. It's usually things like air bubbles in the back, or a minor chip or two. The wall is in my extended garage.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Hanging Stoves
« on: May 01, 2007, 12:24:49 pm »
Any chance of a pic of the home made hanging stoves???

Big Wall Forum / Re: home climbing walls
« on: May 01, 2007, 12:23:57 pm »
I built a home wall seveal years ago after getting really tired of the loud music that the gym closest to home would play all the time. Probably showing my age here! The photo shoes only one end of it. Its 10 feet high and 25feet long and has about 250 holds, mainly metolius seconds. I use it pretty much all winter but not as much as I should.

PS: Great job on the ledge.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Chongos' prebuilt belay stations???
« on: April 12, 2007, 08:30:31 pm »
This is a very simple system I use for bolts that aren't too far apart. I don't plan on th bolts pullng. The haul bag is usually hung off a separate sling via a docking tether and backup. I don't tend to use a counterbalance as then I find it is difficult to set up the anchor for upward pull. Prior to leading off some minor adjustment is usually required to get the slings just right. I also tie off the first couple of pieces to keep it aligned correctly and use screamers on them. If the anchors a long way apart them I use the tail of the rope as well to extend the system.

I didn't add haul bag or rope bucket to keep it clear.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Chongos' prebuilt belay stations???
« on: April 12, 2007, 04:59:17 pm »
Total length is 10 feet. I prefer webbing for several reasons... 1 is that it very easy to notice wear and tear. 2. Sewn, no knots. 3. Wraps up into a nice compact bundle as long as you don't cross thread it.  I'll post a pic later tonight, right now I have to reboot a server.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Chongos' prebuilt belay stations???
« on: April 12, 2007, 09:33:50 am »
I've been following this discussion over on supertopo as well, but I thought I'd post here!

I personally don't like the system as described above as it just seems way overkill to me and a cluster waiting to happen. However, I have my own system that is similiar and built around having two slings (one for each belay) that I use to tie off to the anchors and form my powerpoint. They are dedicated anchor slings. I use the metolius equalizer slings as shown in the link below. They are 1 inch tubular webbing. Hard wearing and strong. I have never liked used cord.

If I have three bolts, the loops go to the outer bolts, then the loop up to the middle and tie it off with a F8. I don't plan on the bolts pulling so its a fixed point not a sliding X. I put two lockers on the powerpoint, one for the end of rope and another for a screamer. One end of the rope is tied into here with a bite of rope coming back to the screamer.

I also connect a sling (24 inch spectra) to two of the bolts to form another powerpoint for hauling so its as high as possible. Or I simply haul off one bolt. The haul bag is then also added to the main powerpoint via a tether and backup to add as a counterweight.

The purpose of this system is two have one that is "standardrized" as much as I feel is worthwhile, yet doesn't get too specialized. I'm not into color coding, etc.  I'll try to post later tonight with a demo picture.

Hopefully, this will get the discussion going here!

Big Wall Forum / Alpinist issue 19
« on: March 27, 2007, 01:57:30 pm »
I know that this mag has been out for a couple of weeks but if you haven't already checked out Alpinist 19, it is a must buy issue. It has a great feature on the Diamond by Roger Briggs.  Here's a link to the web version but it doesn't do it justice. The printed version is so much better.

Big Wall Forum / Re: aid tricks/tips/techniques
« on: March 21, 2007, 11:28:31 am »
About the only time I top step is when I'm reaching between fixed gear or stretching for a better placement. It's a balance between the extra reach gained versus the amount of energy used. If its not vertical then I top step a lot, but if's it's really steep I don't unless I have too.

I use a very simple system to top step based on using biners not a fifi. I picked it up on Ron's Olvesky's DVD. We are about the same size so I starting looking at some of his techniques such as teeing off and using biners and its worked pretty well so far. I usually climb with a silent partner so I have a lot of stuff hanging down in front of my harness and the fifi used to get caught on everyhing all the time.

Next time I'm out doing something and I've got my camera with me I'll try to get some pics.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Christmas Bonus!
« on: March 21, 2007, 11:19:43 am »
Thanks the pics. The stuff looks great and I feel like I'm missing out on something...

Big Wall Forum / Re: HB offsets.
« on: March 04, 2007, 10:08:37 pm »
Just in ...

Alloy Offsets

DMM have finally received the go-ahead from the directors to produce alloy offsets using modified dies that were bought when HB Climbing Equipment went bust.

The new units will be modified from when they were last seen as HB products; the main differences are that they will be lighter and colour coded in line with the standard Wallnut range.

Production schedules mean that the units will be produced over the next 2 to 3 months and will be presented at the Summer shows for immediate delivery.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Christmas Bonus!
« on: February 28, 2007, 12:39:42 pm »
Thanks for the pics.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Zion Closures?
« on: February 28, 2007, 12:33:18 pm »

Big Wall Forum / Re: HB offsets.
« on: February 25, 2007, 01:28:38 pm »
Looks like Mtntools is not so confident that the alloys are going to be available now, as they have change their message from "Spring" to "Not available." Meanwhile over on Ebay the alloys are for sale and are already up to about 70 dollars with 5 or 6 days to go...

Big Wall Forum / Re: Christmas Bonus!
« on: February 25, 2007, 01:18:10 pm »
The chalk bag looks great. Have you made "wall stuff bags" yet? The ones by Metolius are pretty nice...

Big Wall Forum / Aliens on Sale
« on: February 09, 2007, 10:13:03 pm »
Aliens on sale at about 40 each...

If you are looking for some piece of gear sign up at so that you receive an email when a particular piece of gear is on sale. 

Big Wall Forum / Re: Cutting Weight
« on: February 07, 2007, 04:14:13 pm »

Big Wall Forum / Re: Cutting Weight
« on: February 04, 2007, 10:40:16 am »
Can anyone please recommend a good light haul line that is a good comprise between weight and durability. Rapping and hauling only.

Right now I'm using a Bluewater 7/16 x 60m and I'm thinking it is overkill for what I'm using it for. I weighed it yesterday and its almost 11lbs and considerably heavier than my 10.2mm x 60 Mammut supersafe lead rope.



Big Wall Forum / Re: Metolius Offset TCU's
« on: February 03, 2007, 01:53:49 pm »
That hit the nail on the head! I'm convinced now I need aliens...

If anyone ever sees any hybrid aliens in stock somewhere please post it up on the site. I've been finding that places advertise them but when you call you are placed on a waiting list ..

Big Wall Forum / Re: Zion Closures?
« on: January 24, 2007, 08:54:18 pm »
The last few years they have started the closures on March the 1st, so I would imagaine unless things change they will keep to that schedule. I haven't been able to find a press reslease yet as its a bit early in the year. I would expect it to come out early next month.

The AccessFund has details from last year at

And last year's press release is here:

Hope this helps.

Big Wall Forum / Thanks - Big Wall Wiki
« on: January 23, 2007, 11:28:51 am »
I just wanted to thank everyone who is putting all the time and effort into the Wall Wiki. It is growing well and becoming a great resouce. \

Hopefully I can add to it as well!



Pages: 1 ... 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 [16] 17