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Messages - johnmac

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Big Wall Forum / Re: rope soloing anchors and security knots
« on: January 21, 2007, 10:28:18 am »

I'm no expert and have only recently got back into climbing walls after a 10 year break, and hopefully the more experienced folks on this forum will help you. If you search the internet for "Dr Piton" tips and topics you will find lots of help. They are very helpful. As with most stuff you have to decide whether it works for you or not, they are a great resource and starting point and hopefully one day they will be incorporated into a book. In JM's book it has a section on soloing and also the book by Jarod Ogden "Big Wall Climbing" has a good chapter on soloing and inparticular some good diagrams on rope systems. Over on people often refer to Chongo's big wall book series that you can purchase at 100 bucks a book, but since I haven't even seen one I don't know if they exist for real or whether they are just vaporwear.

My own systems are still evolving as I learn whats works for me and what doesn't. The last wall I tried in October I got just over half way and had to rapp off since I screwed up my shoulder and couldn't lift my arm above chest height. So I would recommend that you start with short routes that you can do in a couple of days. I haven't soloed El Cap but hope to one day and I know before then I will really have to have very efficient systems to make a good go of it and enjoy it.

Anyhow, I use what is often referred to the continuos solo rope system, where you tie your haul line to your lead lead. I stack the ropes into a FISH Snake Charmer rope bag, which is a key part of the system. I've tried to draw a diagram of what it is you give you an idea. Its not perfect and some of the detail isn't great but it should give you an idea. Do a search on for continous rope systems and you will find similiar diagrams but with a lot more complexity.

For me soloing is about keeping things really simple. Small rack, lightest possible haul bag and simple rope systems. If I don't keep to that methodology I know I won't even get off the ground.



Diagram of soloing sysem

FIsh products

Big Wall Forum / Metolius Offset TCU's
« on: January 20, 2007, 04:35:16 pm »
Over on there is a review of Metolius Offset TCU's, which I've seen for sale at about $220 a set at I haven't seen them anywhere else or even on the Metolius Website.

Anyone used them?

Big Wall Forum / Re: Portaledge Design Discussion
« on: January 15, 2007, 09:12:37 pm »
Talking about designs, has anyone ever scene one of these "Speed Solo Ledges

Big Wall Forum / Re: Will my Kong Adjustable fifi let me down?
« on: January 10, 2007, 07:53:23 pm »

Big Wall Forum / Re: HB offsets.
« on: January 03, 2007, 02:22:25 pm »
Here is some more info regaridng brass hb offsets from a uk climbing site.

DMM Wales
Once we were finished at Misty, we stepped across the aisle to meet with Steve at DMM to talk about their new gear coming up this season.

Although it didn?t come up right away, I finally got the lowdown on the story with the HB Offset fiasco. The short version is that DMM could not produce the stoppers without upping the price by almost 50% per unit. Thus, the former HB employee who actually manufactured the units for HB was given leave by DMM to go ahead and produce them on her own and try to make a go of it. The final end of the story comes when Julian (the employee), signed an exclusive contract with the Yosemite Mountain Shop for distribution of the HB Offset (Hugh still owns the rights). So, there it is- the only place in the world you can buy the HB Offsets is at the YMS?just in case you were wondering!

Now, on with DMM?s really fun offerings this season! First up is a new standard in lightweight wiregates. DMM?s new wiregate called the Phantom will set the new record for ultra light when it comes out in March- barely registering on the scales at a scant 24g! It is tiny, like the Nano, but I bet folks are going to love it.

DMM?s trend of ultralight stuff continues with their other carabiners- the Shadow, a regular gate carabiner comes in four versions- straight, bent, screwgate, and autolocker. The straight and bent gate versions are only 43g and keylock, making them an attractive carabiner for those not into wiregates.

DMM?s final ultralight offering for next season is a tiny stainless steel belay device called the V-Twin that really looks cool (and was tough to photograph- so shiny!). This is a prototype- the production version will be a bit beefier and with slightly wider slots.

Big Wall Forum / Re: HB offsets.
« on: December 28, 2006, 07:58:06 am »
I believe that the brass offsets are available from the Mountain Shop in Yosemite. I haven't seen them personally, but over on supertopo people have been posting that they have purchased them recently.  I got several sets via Ebay about 6 months ago.

Mountain Tools is only advertising the larger alumininum offsets which I believe are going to be made by DMM for spring 08.

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