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Messages - Raaf

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31
Big Wall Forum / Re: What have you dropped on a big wall?
« on: March 28, 2011, 03:38:20 pm »
My glasses from the Stovelegs pitches. Good thing I'm near sighted. The climb continued. The Valley floor was fuzzy.

Edit: Lasik will prevent me from repeating that mistake.

32
Big Wall Forum / Re: Please help me get a grant!
« on: December 23, 2010, 10:21:20 pm »
Just watched the video. Full conditions climbing-----whoa.

That's some good work you guys. Excellent job. Hope you get the grant. Ya got my vote.

33
Big Wall Forum / Re: Anyone use WC Zero cams?
« on: July 22, 2010, 02:21:45 pm »
So JC5123, what did you pay for them? Mountaingear has a set priced at $384, or $64 a piece. They look sweet. . . great for the thin stuff. But I'd be way more inclined to go for it if there was a bargain.

34
Big Wall Forum / Re: Yosemite bigwalls climbed 2010
« on: June 15, 2010, 09:42:26 am »
West Face, Leaning Tower. Hope you get many responses. . . . though I think there are a lot of climbers (especially those from other countries) who won't see this survey.

35
Who says the Kong Block Roll is sketchy for body hauling?





Ok, I know it's not supertopo here. Just having some rainy-day fun.

36
Big Wall Forum / Re: Sling Life
« on: March 04, 2010, 10:24:23 am »
In Portland Oregon, Climb Max Mountaineering (http://www.climbmaxmountaineering.com/) has a re-sling service. Don't know how convenient it is for people out of state. They put new belay loops on my wall harness, and reslung two tri-cams for me. Reasonable prices, and the work was good quality. On my harness, it was about $15 for the two replacement loops. The tri-cams were $7-8 per sling. Seemed like variety of sling color and materials was a little limited, but workable. I know people who have had their cam slings replaced there, and heard good things.

37
Big Wall Forum / Re: stay limmit in the valley?
« on: February 24, 2010, 12:37:17 pm »
+1

38
Big Wall Forum / Re: New Yosemite Bigwall guides
« on: February 10, 2010, 06:09:45 pm »
Man that's a good topo. Sweet!

39
Big Wall Forum / Re: Solar Chargers for the wall..
« on: January 23, 2010, 11:52:37 pm »
Photo or details on the 9volt thingie? Sounds more reliable. Thx

40
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Premeditated (part 1 - TR)
« on: December 21, 2009, 03:31:39 pm »
Looking forward to the full-blown story. Inquiring minds want to know: Did the hammer participate in a proud ascent?


41
Big Wall Forum / Re: Tomahawks avaible at Mountain Gear now
« on: December 16, 2009, 10:55:13 am »
Is the Tomahawk logo now on a t-shirt available for sale?

42
Big Wall Forum / Re: This, a big walls forum
« on: November 02, 2009, 09:33:17 am »
Agreed--100%.


43
Big Wall Forum / Re: lunar eclipse
« on: October 29, 2009, 12:36:37 pm »
I've never placed or replaced a bolt in my life. But when I gave $$$ to the ASCA, this is exactly how I expected/intended it would be used.

In my mind, the character and risk of a climb are in the features you tackle when you're on lead. The preservation of the challenge faced by the first ascenders should be one of the highest priorities. I agree that all bolting activities should be scrutinized for good jugement so we don't get excessive placements and change (lower) the rating of a route. That said, these guys were replacing anchor bolts--some of which are 27 years old. Aren't anchors meant to be your safe spot in between risky leads?

My vote is that these guys deserve a hearty thanks.

44
Big Wall Forum / Re: Climbing El Cap: Change for the...
« on: October 01, 2009, 05:23:04 pm »
That's some great food for thought, Mike. As I mull over aspects of it, can't help but to think of the "double edge" in terms of safety. For the person who busts a femur and then gets rescued within hours, that's a pretty sweet deal. But of course, lots of others are disappointed in the diluted sense of adventure and risk.

45
Big Wall Forum / Re: Sawtooths
« on: July 27, 2009, 11:52:39 pm »
What day are you going? I'll be in the area beginning on Sunday, and hoped to scope it out (with family in tow) Monday or Tuesday. It's a family camping trip out of Stanley, so not really a climbing trip. But would be cool to check it out and plan for future glory.

46
Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: June 12, 2009, 12:23:18 am »
Twenty years ago this Spring. . . . . Final pitch of the Nose. Note that (ahem) 'confident' smile for the camera.


47
Big Wall Forum / Re: Free A5 Big Wall Hammer contest
« on: May 24, 2009, 10:09:29 am »
Hmmmmm........gotta do some searchin' soon. Cool!

48
Big Wall Forum / Re: Free A5 Big Wall Hammer contest
« on: May 21, 2009, 03:41:40 pm »
Is this contest officially over? Or merely dormant? Never found out where the mystery wall was!

49
Big Wall Forum / Re: Camp 4 climbers that went on to be..
« on: May 19, 2009, 10:25:55 am »
That was me asking for the photo and story. Thanks! That's it. Nice job.

50
Non Climbing (if you must) / Re: Then and now, valley dirtbags
« on: May 04, 2009, 10:38:40 pm »
I've looked through Roper's books Ordeal by Piton and Camp 4, and also the Alpinist issue 25 which was on Yosemite. Still can't find that story.


51
Big Wall Forum / Re: new lowering out video w/ audio
« on: May 03, 2009, 11:02:45 pm »
I also was impressed by the gri gri backup, tho I'd still be thinking of a chicken knot maybe way back from the start of the pitch. (Unless a lower out early in the pitch required the tail to be free.)

Would you go without chicken knots through the whole route when you use the gri gri as backup, or is that because you're on the first pitch off the ground?

Thanks,

J. Raaf

52
Non Climbing (if you must) / Then and now, valley dirtbags
« on: April 29, 2009, 04:54:40 pm »
Does anyone recall that story (might have been a Steve Roper or a Galen Rowell piece) where there was a 1960's photo from Camp 4 and a quote "Who let in the riff raff". . . . and then it went on to document how each person had gone on to great things. Scientist, entrepreneur, professor. . .

I need to find a copy of that article!

53
Non Climbing (if you must) / Re: Congratulations to Lambone, new dad
« on: April 28, 2009, 02:53:30 pm »
I'll echo the Congrats! We just had our #2 boy two weeks ago today. . . . pretty cool experience.



P.S. Sorry for the hijack---------proud dads are pathetic!
By the way, our older boy started out seven weeks early, and 3.5 lbs.

54
Big Wall Forum / Re: Old timer, coming back...
« on: October 20, 2008, 11:07:20 pm »
Very cool. I can relate to the "comeback" mentality, and I hope you have success.

Depending on your time off (and guessing from the yellow jumars question), a couple of items that may be new:

1) leeper cam hooks----look for message threads on these. They are a must.
2) alien offsets----some aspects in dispute, but otherwise they are some of the best cams available for Yosemite aid (a safety recall dampened enthusiasm, but that was resolved and I think they are bomber)


55
Hey Munge,
Much commiserating. . . .  what was the part about "3 different parties?" In front of you?

Supposed to be weather this weekend, which means that groups will be gathering for their start. . .  and it'll be a bit backed up in the Valley. Time to focus on less popular routes, I say.

I'm getting on the road this Saturday morning.

More detail when you get a chance, Munge.

56
Big Wall Forum / Re: New thread: Zodiac clean
« on: April 18, 2008, 05:38:17 pm »
It was good enough to stand up on. . . . so leaving it in place was a mental boost at least. The placement was a bit shallow but if you get the size right then it almost seemed like a decent nut placement.

57
Big Wall Forum / Re: New thread: Zodiac clean
« on: April 18, 2008, 03:55:24 pm »
There was one place halfway up p.1 where I used (and left for pro) a sawed-off. And I was definitely more focused on finding good cam hook placements.

Couldn't say about the rest of the route. . . . . we stopped at the top of p.2.


58
Big Wall Forum / Re: My Russian Aiders came yesterday
« on: March 26, 2008, 05:27:56 pm »
Are they the Ural Sport version with Titanium hooks? If so---I agree. . . . the original webbing is barely there. I had a re-fit done by Garbonzo which looks primo. (haven't given them the full test ride yet).

59
Big Wall Forum / Re: Cam Hooks
« on: May 03, 2007, 10:36:43 pm »
Never heard any confirmation on the cam hook filing suggestion. I'm intrigued, but no one else chimed in to say they agree. Anyone?

60
Big Wall Forum / Re: what's in your bolt bag?
« on: April 23, 2007, 01:00:19 pm »
I'm preparing for a return to Yosemite this June, with plans for Zodiac.

While my prior wall experiences are a bit dated (Nose '89, backed off Triple Direct in '94), it seems like the 'just in case' principle might apply at least a little in bringing a bolt kit. I've never drilled a bolt in my life, but until I saw this discussion I thought it was common practice to just throw the hand drill and a few bolts/hangars in the bottom of the bag.

Is it really the case that with the ASCA's efforts and a long cheater stick as backup, that you would completely forego bringing the bolt kit?

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