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Messages - Mr.

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121
Big Wall Forum / Re: Name that Pitch...
« on: December 09, 2008, 09:45:13 am »
and another.


122
Big Wall Forum / Re: HB Brass Offset TRADE?
« on: December 08, 2008, 07:12:13 pm »
quick note: may or june '09 is the expected release for the DMM offset brass. $15.95 ea. kevin: are you back in truckee yet? snow is on the way, and you might actually have to, like, work or something, ya bum! gimme the report.

max

123
Big Wall Forum / Re: New Jersey Turnpike
« on: December 04, 2008, 08:49:29 pm »
Maybe the discussion should be directed towards the NA diorite feature in specific. This section of dark rock probably has the highest concentration of difficult routes on El Cap. It may be the least traveled huge feature. I think diorite is fun to climb when one is willing. I like that it consistently yields more features. Little crispies and grooves and pockets and overlaps and weird shite. Keeps FA from having to drill. Anyone got some good photos of the gnar or good tales of climbing the stuff?

A List of routes that climb some pitches in the North America feature diorite:

NA Wall
Sea of Dreams
Ring of Fire
Wyoming Sheep Ranch
Heartland
New Jersey Turnpike
El Nino
Nightmare on California St.
Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys
Gulf Stream
Continental Drift

Names of pitches established in the diorite feature:

Wanted Dead or Alive
Gumbie's Gallows
Dont Skate Mate
Thou Shalt Not Drill

124
Big Wall Forum / Re: New Jersey Turnpike
« on: December 04, 2008, 10:02:38 am »
Dale Bard: New Jersey Turnpike (1977) Sunkist (1978), Sea of Dreams (1978), Iron Hawk (1978)

Hugh Burton: Magic Mushroom (1972), , Mescalito (1973), Horse Chute (1974), Excalibur (1975), New Jersey Turnpike (1977)

Bruce Hawkins: New Jersey Turnpike (1977), Never Never Land (1978)

Ron Kauk: New Jersey Turnpike (1977), Iron Hawk (1978)


125
Big Wall Forum / New Jersey Turnpike
« on: December 03, 2008, 07:02:22 pm »
Est. in 1977 by Bard, Burton, Hawkins, and Kauk, the NJT is the second route to be established in the NA feature diorite. The topo indicates runout free climbing and difficult aid. The speed record is held by Ammon and Brian, summiting in just over 14hrs! I've never seen anyone on this route. What gives? Obliterated by rockfall? Has anyone done this route? Deuce?

126
Big Wall Forum / Re: Cam Hooks
« on: October 06, 2008, 07:16:32 pm »
The lever arm on the fragile is also shorter so it exerts less force on the rock. Since there is less torque to hold the damn thing in there, Leeper made them out of aluminum which is softer and "stickier."

mr

127
Big Wall Forum / Re: Where to buy tag line?
« on: August 13, 2008, 06:55:58 pm »
Go to you local mom & pop climbing shop or climbing gym and have them special order you a spool of perlon accessory cord.

Spools of webbing are generally spliced, as munge pointed out, but cord is never spliced. I sell the stuff and have never once seen splices in a spool of accessory cord (Bluewater, ABC, Edelweiss, Monster, etc.). Cord is a little more static than a single strand of a half or double rope. It does get stretchy when wet though, and there may be a little sheath slippage. 6-8mm is a good diameter for about any rap/tag application.

5mm is rated anywhere from 1000lbs min breaking strength to 1400lbs. (always depends on manufacturer)
6mm: 1600lbs - 1950lbs
7mm: 2300lbs - 2800lbs
8mm: 2700lbs - 3700lbs

Looking at my spec sheets: Bluewater and ABC are the strongest for all diameters. All brands are reliable, durable, and quality. One can assume that stronger cord also weighs more.
A 60m spool of 7mm (any brand) retails @ ~$78-$95.







128
Big Wall Forum / Re: Trying to contact Dan or Sue McDevitt
« on: July 05, 2008, 08:03:35 pm »
Reason is: they put up a killer line and unfortunately the threaded 1/4" split shaft rivets are now all way jingus after 25+ years. The rivets at one belay would all flex when hauling from the masterpoint and are sticking out. They will break, soon. Unfortunately these rivets are all you get at hanging belays, which is a bummer. The route is high very high quality and next time we will bring a small bolt kit to pull and replace a couple of anchor bolts, just what is needed to keep us from flying off the wall. I want to make sure I dont step on any toes here.

M

129
Big Wall Forum / Trying to contact Dan or Sue McDevitt
« on: July 01, 2008, 05:34:06 pm »
Does anyone know how I might be able to contact them? I have friends here in Truckee that say they are still around the Yosemite. I would appreciate the help. Thanks.

Max

130
Big Wall Forum / Re: To Bosun's Chair or not to Bosun's chair?
« on: June 05, 2008, 01:51:08 pm »
Pika? Whaaat? No way man, that hammok is all Mtn. Tools! The best investment I have ever made for wall climbing. You adjust the hammok so you can sit in it like a chair (with your feet dangling) instead of being horizontal. You get shade from the sun and wind and when the sides are pulled up, do not underestimate this important advantage. The main improvement is that a hammok supports you tired aching back (unlike a bosun's) and does not hurt your ass on long hangs. Its like having one of those anti-gravity hanging chairs up on a wall. The belayer can actually be comfortable, rest, relax, and disconnect for a little while until you hear "15 feet!".  Super quick to deploy and stuff back in its little haul pouch. Lightweight. Get the Mtn. Tools they are way better. The one negative side is that you always fall asleep while belaying no matter what time of day. Worth the money.


131
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivets on New Dawn/WOEML
« on: May 07, 2008, 12:42:20 pm »
We did the route in '05 or '06 and there were no missing/broken off rivets. I think all of Beyer's work affected the lower sections of WOEML, not above where ND intersects the route. Go for it!

132
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rivets on New Dawn/WOEML
« on: May 06, 2008, 10:29:33 am »
Lunchbox and I agree that if Harding had placed low grade steel rivets instead of aluminum ones, the ladders would be in much worse condition. I didn't lead this block but I don't remember and of them looking especially bad when cleaning. The thin hangers come in handy because some rivets have junk wire fixed on them.

This route gets bad press because of the bolted sections. I dont think that the upper sections of this route make it "worth it" because the whole thing is excellent.

The top of pitch 21 is a great place to be.

133
Big Wall Forum / Re: Rope of choice?
« on: April 30, 2008, 12:48:47 pm »
Aid Walls:
1st pick: Yates Speed Wall 10.3mm 65m (65m length is perfect)
2nd pick: Edelweiss Sharp 10.5  mm 70m (heavier ropes jug way better, suuuper burlz)

Freeclimbing:
1st pick: Edelweiss Laser 9.6mm 70m (lightweight but still burlz, works well w/ grigri, great rope solo rope)

Static:
1st pick: Edelweiss Speleo 9mm (lightwieight, good for el cap aid climbs IAD, great for long freeclimbs where the descent involves many raps into the unknown, not best choice when hauling super heavy loads)

134
Big Wall Forum / Tales of heat and exhaustion.
« on: April 29, 2008, 06:38:44 pm »
It is summer in the Valley, folks. This last Sunday as I was walking to the big shade tree in El Cap meadow it felt like 100 degrees with that hot lazy breeze blowing across from the west. The tree does not have leaves yet, by the way, and the north-facing gullies still have snow, but the sun and heat are back in full force! It took a session on the Shield to realize that over this long, cold, work-infested, Truckee winter, I had set aside all the memories and tales of heat and exhaustion.

I'll start ?er off with a good one. Last July I was climbing on Emerald Point on the west shore of Tahoe, finding great climbing and amazing views. It was stinking HOT and we were on the south-facing aspect of this beautiful peak. I was climbing a nice, but  runout, face pitch on perfect granite when all of the sudden I feel that things are going to go very, very, wrong. My peripheral starts narrowing down, I am dizzy, tunnel vision, my legs feel like they are going to buckle under my bodyweight. Holy shite, I think, I am totally going to faint because of this friggin? heat! I cling onto the knobs with hella pinch power and focus. Nooooo! Not now! I try to shake it off but my vision is still narrowing, panic is creeping in, my body wants to shut down, this wasn?t supposed to happen. Nooooo! Damnit! I try to regain control. Downclimb? Keep going up? Stay at this stance? Damn! I actually try to hook one of my gear loops from my harness onto a knob in case I was to pass out right then! That didn?t work, of course. My thought processes are scrambled, I?m a goner, hundred-twenty footer onto a piece somewhere down there, massive trauma to the body, internal bleeding, no helmet, whoops. I lean into the wall and close my eyes. All I see are small swirling dots.

Well anyhow, I?m still here, made it through that one. It was a close call that could have had very unfortunate consequences. Amazing how the human body can still override the mind if it wants to in these situations.  It was a very strange feeling, especially for climbers who pride themselves on being ?in control.? I was very lucky.

I?ll turn this thread over to you all. Do you have any good stories about heat, dehydration, walls without enough water, desperate situations to get water, or hallucinations? Please share, this could be fun. ?Tis the season for tales of heat and exhaustion!

135
Big Wall Forum / Re: New thread: Zodiac clean
« on: April 02, 2008, 09:54:00 am »
thud, thud, thud, thud (snicker) thud, thud, thud, thud

No std length angles needed. fixed pins are now back in place on blk tower, grey circle. very, very little nailing.

thud, thud, thud, thud, jeez....

136
Big Wall Forum / Re: Winnuts for tangerine trip?
« on: March 31, 2008, 08:51:44 am »
99% of the route has been replaced w/ plated 3/8" rivets or stainless bolts. No junk bolts.

137
Big Wall Forum / Re: Obscure topos for your viewing pleasure
« on: February 18, 2008, 11:54:37 am »
Thanks for the topos deuce.

Kevin A. and Ken B. did the second on mediterraneo a few years back. Kevin told me it was a pretty fun route and the location was killer. They were all set to do verano, but got to the section that goes through the heart and were unsure of where the route went. I have looked at that route and it seems like there is a quite a bit of gardening/slime to be had. That may have played a part in their choice to get on sunkist instead. The Gallego route on Watkins still seems to be unaccounted for. Anyone?

138
Big Wall Forum / Gallego Bros: Where are their routes?
« on: February 11, 2008, 02:45:41 pm »
Hopefully someone can help me out with this. I know where Verano and Mediteraneo go, but where are the other routes?They also have a Watkins route? Anyone out there know? Do they have 4 or 5 routes on the Captain? C'mon speak up.

139
Big Wall Forum / Re: pics thread
« on: February 06, 2008, 09:24:01 am »



lunchbox is huuuungry...


140
Big Wall Forum / Re: pics thread
« on: February 05, 2008, 11:17:39 am »
lunchbox, i think it is higher up. at this point, we were gunning 'cause the crazy clouds were a blowin. i really dont remember much of that route either. i do remember spilling my entire 24oz in the portaledge after we topped out in all that snow. I'm sure you remember that one as well.

141
Big Wall Forum / Re: pics thread
« on: February 04, 2008, 11:46:34 am »


142
Big Wall Forum / Re: Bashies for sale. All sizes and modles.
« on: January 31, 2008, 07:33:50 pm »
you should scan some so i can look at quality. no bs. they would need to be no longer than 3.75" tip to tail. need many. probably 20 ea. double/single. must be stainless. would want a couple to test.

w-o-r-d

max r.

143
Big Wall Forum / Re: Bashies for sale. All sizes and modles.
« on: January 30, 2008, 02:52:53 pm »
i need #0s and double head #0 (non eq). do you have them? how much for these.

144
Big Wall Forum / Re: slider nuts?
« on: January 27, 2008, 02:34:29 pm »
in this case i did not have to equalize them. i found the tightest possible constricitons and put em there 'cause there is not range in these units. test them decently hard in rotten rock to get them to bite. hard to clean deep placements (which are the way to go on expando. sometimes the wire holding the ball gets mangled and the units become difficult to place.

145
Big Wall Forum / Re: micro hooking
« on: January 24, 2008, 09:23:26 pm »
the american zone has some pretty interesting hooking before the mantle. mostly kinda blown out hooks that C.C. probably drilled on the 2nd?  i thought i was a goner down to the belay when this bathook hole ended up being a sloper but it held and got onto the next placement which was a tiny little wafer the size of a dime which looks very weak. then figure out the mantle. best thing to do this 1st thing in the morning before the greaze.

as of recently i've been putting up more routes and thin hooking doesnt seem that out of the norm. last weekend i hooked along this sloper rail with the medium pika flat tip, all the time catching tiny little crystals way back on it. hooking thin stuff with big pika hooks is a little unnerving because they are so springy. enough for now. peace out.

146
Big Wall Forum / Re: slider nuts?
« on: January 24, 2008, 08:46:09 pm »
Sometimes these are the only things that will stick under expanding/rotten overlaps/roofs or very fragile expando. They really saved my ass once under a rotten loose flake that I was trying to delicately nail with LAs. Pins would not work at all, cam hooks would probably have pryed the thing off the wall and were not an option. The ball nutz worked so well  that they are still there.

147
Big Wall Forum / Re: New choice in small cams?
« on: December 06, 2007, 09:59:16 pm »
I've seen pictures of the Metolius Master cam, they look really nice... but is it as narrow as an alien? Has anyone on this forum actually compared these two?

148
Big Wall Forum / Re: Best Porta Fly for winter use?
« on: December 06, 2007, 07:47:52 pm »
I didn't even think about having a sail maker construct portaledge flys. A great idea. They have powerful equipment and strong needles that can punch through several layers of thick material. Sails are super strong, can withstand much abuse, and high forces. Anyone who has sailed can recognize this. If sailcloth was more waterproof, I would want a fly made out of that stuff!!! I could probably throw a brick at the stuff and it wouldn't puncture.

And when you are hanging in your portaledge, Latok, and the wind picks up..... smile, relax, and melt some more snow for tea.

149
Big Wall Forum / Re: Best Porta Fly for winter use?
« on: December 05, 2007, 07:35:53 pm »
"On our trip the strategy is to use 2 ledges and bring a spare ledge (left in BC)"

Sounds like you are going to have three teams total. Yes? Two teams on the wall, and one in basecamp? One team advancing the climb, the others hauling/resupply/resting? I think you are making a good descision with the extra flys especially if the camps are exposed. Bring needle and thread, and a patch kit.

-Max R.


150
Big Wall Forum / Re: Best Porta Fly for winter use?
« on: December 05, 2007, 03:27:12 pm »
The Russian brand BASK might have the answer.

http://www.bask.info/catalog/tents/extremetents/66477/

Didn't even know these guys existed. In the BASK website they have a list of projects and expeditions.

http://www.bask.info/info/papers/projects.html

Pretty proud resume. According to their website, they sponsored extreme projects like the Jannu North Face team in 2004, the Latok III attempts, Great Sail Peak Baffin expdition, and most notably, the 2005 Drytooling and Hotwine Festival. Mmmm sounds fun. It seems this brand is sponsoring most of the look-death-in-the-eye Russian high altitude bigwall climbers. Their product might be what you are looking for. Contact them.

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