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Messages - Mr.

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151
Big Wall Forum / Re: Best Porta Fly for winter use?
« on: December 05, 2007, 02:57:06 pm »
I'm sure the Russians have something out there for high altitude bigwalls.

152
Big Wall Forum / Re: Best Porta Fly for winter use?
« on: November 29, 2007, 10:41:40 am »
I think one of Mtn Hardwear's tents will fit right on a Metolius ledge. Keep in mind that you can't set this system up on a slab because the portalege suspension straps will get in the way.

153
Big Wall Forum / Re: Best Porta Fly for winter use?
« on: November 27, 2007, 07:55:32 pm »
It doesnt seem like there are any in production right now designed specifically for expedition conditions. The market for this high-end item is very small. For most winter walls in the States the Black Diamond Deluxe would probably do, but for walls like Latok III you will want that Gore-Tex and only the most durable fly and components, a custom job.  Materials are expensive, they are time consuming to produce, and one needs a skilled individual to constuct these. The expense of a quality custom fly will be worth it when you are hanging on a 2000m section of wall that is part of a 7000m peak... Maybe there are some people on this forum that could help you with this.

154
Big Wall Forum / Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« on: November 06, 2007, 04:30:10 pm »


Where you want to be.

155
Big Wall Forum / Re: Glass Menagerie beta at Looking Glass, NC
« on: November 06, 2007, 10:51:50 am »
The Movie Screen and The Navel. Nice pics, makes me want to climb there again. Never got the SFM, only the first pitch. I'll try to post some photos of Brain Wall, Creatures of Waste, and GM Direct.

Falling Shards was pretty stout. Lunchbox and I got on this route in December? January? We had met the guys who put it up while doing Zombie Zoo. We later found out that Chris B. from Chicago, who also put up "Self Right to Suicide," Paine Towers, snagged the second from us. It was super cold when we got on this north facing route but the rock was dry. The second pitch climbs off the belay on hooks through a band of loose rock then into steep solid grey rock that is comparable to the circle pitches on Zodiac.  Lots of #0 heads and beaks on that one, I recall. Pretty good pancake potential from up way up there, you would probably rip to the belay. Lunchbox got that one. On the last pitch I lead off on circleheads and equalized black aliens in those flared eyebrows and found the top guarded by a 30ft sheet of water ice and no ice gear. Off of a string of heads and equalized rurps the ice started and the feature ran out. The ice was very clear so I could see the first hole and I bashed my way to it. The next hole was probably under 1' of water ice and I could not find it. Thankfully we had a lead, haul, and a thin 8mm tag so I pulled up some of the tag and connected some hooks and pitons to fashion a grappling hook. On one toss I hooked a huge dead log that came down and almost took out lunchbox at the belay, sorry bro. I must have tossed that thing 50 times before hooking a branch that was now also 20ft to my right. It did not look good as the branch was very thin and only one hook was engaged. Lunchbox lowered me out onto my ascenders and jugged without breathing. At one point my Makalu boots skidded out out from under me on the ice as I was ascending and I screamed as I shock loaded the line. Yikes, those were they days.

-max r.

156
Big Wall Forum / Re: Glass Menagerie beta at Looking Glass, NC
« on: November 05, 2007, 10:33:28 am »
Lunchbox,

You should post some of those old photos of Zombie Zoo or Falling Shards of Glass.

157
Big Wall Forum / Re: "So class, what did you do this summer?"
« on: November 05, 2007, 10:31:27 am »
Here's an apple.

Electric Ladyland- Rough start to season. Anchor partially blew out. Probably did start to Afroman or other route. Moved to TDA.
Mescalito- From pitch 5 to top in a push through snowstorm. The runoff had us a bit... concerned... in spots.
Aquarian- Maybe climbing this thing in May was a bit early.
Never Never Land- In a push. Fun and moderate.
Spanish Castle Magic- Put up a beautiful 18 pitch line on _____ VI 5.9 A3+. You even get to visit "el cap tower" (not on el cap)!
Muir Wall- In a push. Some sweet cracks up there.
Aurora- Three of the best days of climbing I've ever had. Good weather. Good rock. Good partner.
Triple D- Several in a day attempts thwarted by bad weather.
ZM- Almost took the Big Whip.
E. Butt of El Cap to N. Butt of Middle Cathedral- What a great day of freeclimbing.
Zodiac- In a day.

What a great long summer it has been.  Keep sending wherever you're at. Peace Out.

-End of spray transmission-

158
Big Wall Forum / Re: Cutting Weight
« on: March 12, 2007, 08:25:28 pm »
Lightweight gear might help cut weight down, but generally most people just take too much shi*t. When lunchbox and I were climbing the captain in july we could fit everything in a half dome haul bag including water for 3 days. Having a consistent wall partner helps because you know what they are going to bring.

I think lightweight static ropes are not as efficient because they stretch considerably more. Go for the 11mm right away if you are using it for wall applications.  They are sooo easy to haul and jug, and much more durable. Most people will agree.

159
Big Wall Forum / Re: dihedral wall in may?
« on: March 05, 2007, 08:28:58 pm »
The way this winter is lining up, Dihedral should be good earlier than previous years. Earlier than last year for sure. There is much less snowpack on the top of the captain than last year at the same time. We'll see if we get a really really late winter, or if we have one at all. I've heard that this is the worst year for snowpack, on a global scale, that we've had in a while. We'll see how long the waterfalls stick around this year.


160
Big Wall Forum / Re: HB offsets.
« on: March 05, 2007, 07:46:32 pm »
If you've modified your pins and your hooks then you'll have all the tools you need to make offset aluminum nuts. All you need is a hammer, file, stoppers, and a solid surface. Stopper sizes 6-8 are the best candidates for modification. They work great. Sizes 9+ are hollow and have their limitations. I would not modify these. If you have the right tools and good craft then the result will be exactly like an HB. Be patient, work slowly, and use common sense.

This is your best bet. Or wait....


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