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Messages - Mr.

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31
Big Wall Forum / Re: Good Yosemite weather window: now til end of Jan
« on: January 25, 2011, 12:37:55 pm »
looks like still have a week+ or so before this fair weather window closes on us.

dont really have any photos of e.l., we did most of it that sat night. great route, really should get done way more. checked out south central last weekend and did s. man, skull queen. never freeclimbed jo jo before, wow, 1st pitch of prow, or the 10a 2nd pitch up to dinner, all smiles. rad freeclimbing temps right now.

good times.

32
Big Wall Forum / Re: Good Yosemite weather window: now til end of Jan
« on: January 24, 2011, 02:41:10 pm »
dont want to say... not the regular route. they were only up 3-4p, not bagged yet. props to them just getting to the base! brr...

you climb w/ scotty, hoi? congrats on that one. cool.


33
Big Wall Forum / Re: Good Yosemite weather window: now til end of Jan
« on: January 24, 2011, 08:52:02 am »
even half dome is being climbed right now.... amazing.


34
Big Wall Forum / Re: Good Yosemite weather window: now til end of Jan
« on: January 18, 2011, 09:50:59 am »
the column is in for sure. we climbed electric ladyland via prow/tda on saturday and nighttime temps were warm. the valley was booming with avalanches. no waterfalls but some routes are seeping considerably. there is still plenty of snow on top but the rim is melted out and dry. looks like we're good for about another 10-12 days.

35
Big Wall Forum / Good Yosemite weather window: now til end of Jan
« on: January 11, 2011, 06:58:33 pm »
Looks like things are shaping up. Sources indicate dryness and warmer temps through the end of this month.

Yessss.... project time! Anyone else gunning it?

This is the official thread to call me out when the weather craps out and you get rescued.


36
Big Wall Forum / bigwall first aid topic: QuikClot
« on: December 01, 2010, 10:54:39 pm »
just want to put this topic out there because most people dont know it exists.

quikclot, simply put, is a powder that you can pour into a bad wound to stop bleeding. there is also a type of gauze with quikclot in it. it was originally developed for use by soldiers in combat and has proably saved thousands of lives, if not tens of thousands. the actual number must be staggering.

it is super effective, fast working, lightweight/portable, inexpensive, and easy to use. quikclot is standard issue now in all armed services and really should be for most climbers anywhere. the first time i brought it we used it when my partner took a direct hit in the head with helmet on from the block out of nowhere. it was a non-life threatening head wound but a still a huge deep split and gushing blood. nasty. my partner jugged up, leaving gear, i tore open the first packet and the wind got most of it. i got all of the second pouch into the wound and the bleeding stopped immediately. its was amazing, i've never seen like that. i remember doing this weird laugh because we went from an all-out big wall emergency situation to stabilized in mere seconds. i mean, it sealed it, welded it shut until it healed completely 3-4 weeks later.

we were stoked when that was over.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/QuikClot

you can find some stuff on utube about quikclot, but you wont be eating pork for dinner.

37
Big Wall Forum / Re: hibernation forum?
« on: November 22, 2010, 09:52:08 am »
I would suggest for climbers looking to do a easier winter wall to check out Laughing at the Void, Gold Wall, Yosemite. It is south facing and at lower elevation, a little more obscure, approaching isnt too bad if it is melted out, is well equipped with bomber lead and anchor bolts, water is available near the base, and it does have the all-time yosemite lost arrow crack. You rap the route to descend. It is a about A2+ 1000', doable for a lot of people, perfect for winter methinks.

38
Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: November 19, 2010, 09:43:01 am »
a sequence of photos from some slickfooting on m's peace and love var..

looking down at the nice hands section.


looking up from the same stance. its all good!


flipped around in the chimney, gunning it past the block and the fin.


peace.

39
Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: November 09, 2010, 11:52:31 am »

Halfway out! On P4 of my route Steel Pulse 5.9 1000'

All stance drilled, solo, over 2 days. Despite the rating it may be my most committing solo FA. The "Pay to Play" pitch features 200' fall potential.

40
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Some photos from The Shield
« on: November 02, 2010, 09:07:48 am »
YESSSSS!

you started on magic mushroom?

41
Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: November 01, 2010, 12:30:21 pm »


jesus rock and holy hip hop 5.10c 400'
named after the wadsworth, nv, renegade radio 101.3 station, plays only the aforementioned types of music.

42
Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: November 01, 2010, 09:53:42 am »


the summit OW.

43
Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: November 01, 2010, 09:53:00 am »


purgatory peak, nv.
the wishbone 5.9 1000'



44
Big Wall Forum / Re: Weekly Favorite Big Wall Pics Thread
« on: September 13, 2010, 06:50:17 pm »

45
yessss......

46
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Baffin Island E. Coast Ski Madness
« on: August 19, 2010, 10:30:46 am »
not a whole lot of precip there in the winter.

read libecki's ship's prow solo: learning to breathe on baffin island if you want an account of a baffin storm. no pow for sure!!!

http://www.americanalpineclub.org/documents/pdf/aaj/2000/120_libecki_ship_aaj2000.pdf

47
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Baffin Island E. Coast Ski Madness
« on: August 18, 2010, 10:07:42 am »
mucci: getting yourself and your gear to pang is the bulk of your expenditures. leasing sleds or hiring a guide to get to your wall is not so bad. theres a lot of basejumping actvity going on in baffin and groups buy bulk qtys of tickets for way cheap. not working for 2-3mo is another thing... more/better equipment for very cold temps, yeah that investment would have to be made.

theres amazing walls there. just have to do a little research, i did a little scratching around and well, like h.s.thompson would say: even a blind pig can find a...

whatever forgot already.

48
Big Wall Trip Reports / Baffin Island E. Coast Ski Madness
« on: August 17, 2010, 06:28:31 pm »
oooh yes oh yes....  the goods.

be prepared to be blown away. enjoy!

http://www.pawprince.com/pawprince/adventures/baffin02/images/1-10.htm

49
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Lost Word '09
« on: July 21, 2010, 06:46:50 pm »
not really, I only took a couple and they probably suck. wooohooo for sucky photos but good times on the captain!!

50
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Lost Word '09
« on: July 21, 2010, 11:58:57 am »
Cool route... wooohooo, that was fun! I'm surprised it doesnt get done more given the grade is a little harder than LF but easier than NNL. Good option if you dont have a lot of time and want to climb something easier w/ a little nailing. Nanook's topo is right on, maybe a little heavy on the rack, esp. pins/hooks, we only had 2 #2s and 2 #3s as well. The Test your Mettle pitch was nice and exposed and was probably the crux of the route. The anus was cool and refreshing, actually, and not as frightening as it sounds, heh. Cool belay ledges/stances along the route is a plus. We almost missed the one day ascent due to a stuck rope, and a missing hauler (it was clipped to me, whoops), but pulled it off in 23:44. The temps over last weekend were 100+ degrees, but up higher it wasnt too bad. Worst was right after the sun went down and the breeze stopped.

Woohoo! Good times to be had on this route.

51
Big Wall Forum / Re: Half Dome - Right Side
« on: July 14, 2010, 08:54:54 am »
Quote
Bridwell said, "Steve this is your chance for mediocrity or greatness."

'Nuff said there! So true ...and I bet Steve is stoked that he did it up the proud way instead of the ladder. Thats what good climbing partners/teams are all about.

I bet a strong party would have fun on any of those routes over there because ya would know ahead of time that it is going to be exposed, loose, and dangerous... because thats why yer going up there...!

52
Big Wall Forum / Re: Half Dome - Right Side
« on: July 13, 2010, 06:19:43 pm »
Quote
Bridwell pushed all of the team members to avoid drilling, and the result is some wicked heading. 100 feet of small heading when a short rivet ladder to the left could have gained the same corner right off of the belay!

ahh yes, the streaked section up higher. bridwell was able to cool that summit fever. sums up the mentality throughout the whole climb, dont it though? putting up something proud is prioritized above doing something convenient on the FA. the descision eshew bolting reveals the knowledge and practicality of the team. sometimes a small feature is there and with a minimal enhancement it becomes useable. and yes, sometimes doing a little chiseling for heads or enhancing for hooks gets over interpreted as the "proud" thing to do when actually it was the faster and more logical way to proceed. it can go both ways.

never climbed it but the route but the history and its style has always intrigued me. especially if you look at it in relation to the other half dome routes. bridwell's last half dome route was put up in '89, shadows. there he moved even farther left onto the bigger secion of the wall, but it had smaller discontinuous features. many routes were being put up then on the right side that crossed/joined other existing routes. perhaps in shadows, he was looking for the last remaining totally independent line and staying away from more recent developments around zenith and up right towards bushido. perhaps it required more bolting than he would have liked. it was his last route on half dome. seems like big chill was the line in its time, and the team to put it up. props to steve, btw. which pitches did he get?

the chill was put up almost 10 years after the sea/zenith and 6-7 years after ZM so we all know how c2 those are.ha haaa (emphasis added)... {cough}... etc.

look on the bright side: it might be c2 for a while before it falls off!

badass though, super inspiring and motivating for sure!

whosgonnadoit?

edit: check this out, good stuff.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1040465&tn=0

53
Big Wall Forum / Re: Half Dome - Right Side
« on: July 12, 2010, 08:47:09 pm »
promised land looks cool, but big chill is still the "line" in my opinion. more natural, interesting changes in topography, but freekishly plumb the whole way, almost. independent finish, etc.

so heres what i'm thinking: bridwell chose bushido first, big features, then came zenith, a year later, features up to and in the white section but ran out in the streaked section up high. if arctic sea was an indication of what was to come to half dome, the vibe for the chill team must have been to put it all out there and climb in their version of best style possible. is it the sythesis of bridwell's previous halfdome experiences? only he can say, i suppose.

i heard they hauled a lot of equipment up there, though. lol!



54
Big Wall Forum / Re: Half Dome - Right Side
« on: July 12, 2010, 06:04:21 pm »
still maybe the most "chill" route up the right side. c2 at most with small cams and slider nuts. ha haaaa.

55
Big Wall Forum / Re: Half Dome - Right Side
« on: July 12, 2010, 10:55:09 am »
Calling party of three: Big Chill. Big Chill, your line is ready.

56
Big Wall Forum / Re: Any other OC Wall Rats?
« on: July 07, 2010, 08:38:42 pm »
the joke is: whatever you do, it is always a really full haulbag to start!

seems that way at least...

just cut out the fluff. the stuff that has to go is obvious.

57
Big Wall Forum / Re: Metolius Gizmo Belay Ledge
« on: July 06, 2010, 11:19:02 am »
So far spent 6 nights on mine. Took it on Wapama rock and endured a snowstorm, took it into the backcountry and soloed 3 new Vs in the blazing heat off of it, climbed thousands of feet of approach slabs with it just clipped to my harness. Sometimes during the day piggy gets to relax on the ledge while I'm climbing, lucky. I can always rap off a hard pitch and return to the platform for resupply. Where are the extra beaks? Definitely a better hang than a hammok, way more comfortable, and easier to deal with equipment actually standing on something. At night I hang piggy next door and put my feet though the straps and its comfy enough to sleep. In the morning I can sit up on my little perch, get organized, relax. Gear/food bags come out of pig onto the ledge, clipped in, vacate the pig, find the beaks. Then its go time, and piggy gets the ledge again.

Never going back to a full single or double ledge for soloing Vs just because of the weight savings alone. I want to climb, not shuttle knee-banging loads up and down mountainsides.

Thanks Metolius for making it happen! You guys rawk! The Metolius Gizmo is my choice for light, fast, and badass!

58
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: Great Slab Route, 3-4/10
« on: June 30, 2010, 06:08:45 pm »
Hey when is the variation to the down traverse on the Trip getting a shortcut? That pitch is dangerous.

King Swing? What a fecking hassle!

Man the freeclimbing on Lost in America is ghey. Someone needs to fix that problem.

j/k Nanook, dig the replacement efforts, always. You've done much good for the yosemite climbing community and that shouldnt be overlooked. Didnt see the point in doing the GSR bolt shortcut, though. Havent been up there so I dont know the details. Isn't there cool climbing and a rad belay at the end of that roof? It always looked like one of the better parts of the route from the deck.

Again, always stoked to have you REplacing unsafe junk. What was your reasoning for this "variation"?

59
Big Wall Forum / Free YNP Topographical Maps
« on: September 01, 2009, 04:58:42 pm »
Found this page with free 7.5 minute USGS topo maps for Yos. Good topo beta for hike to the top of the Captain etc. Great stuff. Check it.

http://www.pickatrail.com/sun/y/america/topo_map/yosemite/map.html


60
Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: AfroMan!
« on: August 31, 2009, 06:05:46 pm »
buncha craks over by GSR. cool. nice of him to put up a sign... honestly.

same year in february there was another team of euros putting up a new route over by horse chute, i never heard any more about this either.

Route is immediately to the left of Horse Chute, to the right of WOS. Hard to see, hard to tell how many independent pitches, maybe only 4 or 5? If it goes where I think it goes, it climbs some thin little splitters on the face next to the Horse Chute mega dihedral then up. I remember seeing the portaledge under the WOS roof and then hearing that they were on the ground after some weather moved in. Seemed like the portaledge was up there for weeks, not moving.

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