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Messages - Mr.

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Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: AfroMan!
« on: August 31, 2009, 09:37:34 am »
maybe it was kevin, he was working on something over there in '07. route was farther to the right, by GSR and the other new route.  follows some thin craks up and right. sweet lookin. dude has an eye for new lines...

could be someone replacing the HJ anchors tho..?

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: A Touch Of Glass (TR)
« on: July 21, 2009, 10:01:39 am »
nice work, cclarke, making it happen in the rain. proud!

Big Wall Forum / New Wall Gear for 2010
« on: July 20, 2009, 05:46:56 pm »
-Metolius, new portaledge like the Fish One Night Stand.... sweet. Weighs 40% of current single Bombshelter. Called the Gizmo, a stupid name for a rad product.
-DMM, dual axle cams. Speaks for itself.
-BD has redesigned the hotwire I-beam style, lighter, better, less $$. Nice 'biner, gotta say. Also, new wall gloves that look sik.
-Petzl, new pulleys, lighter, more efficient.
-Blue Water, new 10mm lead cord, skinnier version of the Blue Water/Yates FreeWall 10.3mm. Excellent cut/abrasion resistance and lightness @ ~66g/m. Also, a new 8mm tag/haul/rap line. A burly stiff cord that doesnt tangle or stretch.

There's more, but I can't tell... yet. Its gonna be a good year for wall climbers.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Looking Glass
« on: July 08, 2009, 07:48:02 pm »
post some pics from your trip when you get back. free image hosting @ super easy to set up/resize your images.

go get some!

Big Wall Forum / Re: Looking Glass
« on: July 07, 2009, 04:29:52 pm »
Looking Glass Stoke!!!
Zombie Zoo, Pitch 3... good stretch of #0 heads.

Glass Menagerie, Pitch 5... this pitch was freed by the gal in the next photo...

Glass Menagerie, Pitch 3... FFA. Amazing

Photo by Harrison Shull... helluva splitter

Brain Dead

Rowins Route

Invisible Airwaves

Big Wall Forum / Re: Help Me Pick a Route
« on: July 01, 2009, 12:19:11 pm »
anyone know what the line of dowels going directly up to to the p2 belay of aquarian is? some are bent, some are chopped. they are the same dowels you find on aquarian. they are on the slab directly under the anchors, going up from that roof under the sawed traverse, p2 aquarian. i thought it was winds of change but that doesn't intersect aquarian until the traverse on p4. could this be a part of the timbuktu left route or a failed attempt at a wall route continuing up from smee's come-on or wendy? maybe it was the pre-attempt at aquarian? i think timbuktu l intersects nnl at the stance on p10 (ST)? the couple times i was up there i tried to find timbuktu left but couldn't spot a line (of bolts) going to the left side of the tower. still can't climb so i might as well talk about it. jus wonderin'...

Big Wall Forum / Re: Cretins of Swing - Another Looking Glass thread
« on: June 30, 2009, 06:18:34 pm »
is that a variation of rowin's? goes right after top of p2?

edit: nope, thats secret alloys. duh. dunno about cretins. let me guess.... i bet it takes circleheads!

it is in the new NC guidebook published by the mountaineers. check

Big Wall Forum / Re: Help Me Pick a Route
« on: June 30, 2009, 09:40:59 am »
gotta spread the love of the pinnacle of hammerdom belay. it gets shade in the afternoon and offers a grand view of the SW face.  a rad place to stop and find some chillin'.

"mighty feasible if you don't look at the ratings [in the guidebook]- heh"
yeah, cause they're hella soft munge

Big Wall Forum / Re: Looking Glass
« on: June 29, 2009, 12:33:39 pm »
the direct doesnt go clean if you are aiding,  you'd need a beak to gain the nice thin hands part. start on the 10c to the left and step right, easy c1. finish invisible on brain wall. the scott fisher and rowin's are good moderates too.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Help Me Pick a Route
« on: June 29, 2009, 10:26:00 am »
i vote never never land - clean hauling, great rock, many nice belay ledges, not too long, bomber bolts, nothing dangerous or scary.. A2+. good easy/moderate pitches that take pins, no hard cruxes, super doable. is that enough to convince ye? it'll be hot down low, but it goes quick.

from left: lost world (green), hole world (drk blue), w. buttress (orange), octopussy (purple), never never land (drk red), winds of change (light red), timbuktu left unrepeated (orange), aquarian (yellow), wings of steel (light blue), horse chute (green), dihedral (drk blue), cosmos (orange).

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: AfroMan!
« on: June 18, 2009, 06:24:42 pm »
not my photo. is this the horneyzontal? also marked where i remember the splitter being.

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: AfroMan!
« on: June 18, 2009, 06:08:59 pm »
yeah i just looked at some overview photos of the column and i can't even point out where this thing is 'cause there's a lot goin' on up there. snoopity snoop, someone got a good one.

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: AfroMan!
« on: June 18, 2009, 05:31:49 pm »
this thing finished to the left of astro but 60' right of EL , looks like an independent finish. can't be HJ if HJ is mostly to the left of astro. glory! that splitter looked good. suuuuper thin, no head cables pokin out.

edit: found this pic, posted on this forum by e. sloan. shows second pitch of afroman, just to right of climber... throught the grass, i think.

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: AfroMan!
« on: June 18, 2009, 04:53:04 pm »
afro looks cool up high. yo skully, have you scoped that thin kb splitter just to the right of EL p5 or 6 or 7. spotted some .25"ers w/ some tat and then a gorgeous straight in thin crack going up a slightly overhanging headwall. looks like it is just to the left of astroman... is that the HJ? looked at the HJ topo after spotting it and it doesnt look like there is that feature is on that route. looks badass. splitter take off right above a slab section.

Big Wall Trip Reports / Re: AfroMan!
« on: June 18, 2009, 04:41:08 pm »
is the 2nd pitch of Afroman immediately to the right of he Electric Ladyland 2nd pitch? off of that huge ramp/ledge (top of p1) EL goes up a shallow corner on the face, just to the right is a bigger dihedral with a few copperheads leading to a grassy overlap/roof. is that Afroman?

Big Wall Forum / Re: shield linking beta...etc
« on: June 15, 2009, 09:17:07 am »
tie your bags in short so the second can use the remainder of the haul line to help convince the bags to get over the roofs, above p2 and under the half dollar. the second can clip this line into a gear loop, clean a little and reposition, and try yarding on it from a different angle. hopefully by rocking the bags and a little patience the bags will get freed. if you have a 70m+ haul line you can haul the last 2 pitches up to mammoth in one go. leave the bags on the small ledge to the left of the p8 anchor. then simul climb p9 and 10. if you have a long haul line you can combine hauling pitches: 1 and 2, bags will get stuck low, and 3 and 4, bags get stuck under roof, 9 and 10, clean. hauling freeblast isn't bad if you can recognize the hauling snags ahead of time and don't just lowerout your bags into a clusterf*ck without thinking about it.

Big Wall Forum / Most water stashed on an El Cap Route
« on: May 14, 2009, 09:06:47 am »
So there you are climbing El Cap in July or August, sunbaked, low on water, close to heat stroke and insanity. You're probably aiding some gawd awful slot directly in the sun or something and as you mantle onto the piss-slick belay ledge there it is... the motherlode of water stashes!

I've found gallons here and there, mostly quarter filled with off-color undrinkable fluids of uncertain orgins. I'm sure we've all considered drinking some stuff that was probably just piss anyway (no I didn't do it). My personal record for discovering the good stuff was eight-ten gallons on island in the sky. Damn near took up the whole ledge! Some were still sealed! The irony is that we had plenty and didn't need it. Funny how that works.

Where have you unexpectedly found a bigwall oasis?

And remember folks: smell it before you drink it.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Soloing Belay Device Question
« on: March 23, 2009, 06:34:12 pm »

There is one case of a Brit using a DMM Belay Master biner falling on Eagles Way and the biner breaking...
Yes, he was tied to the end of the rope...

hopefully he fell up higher where it gets steep!

(hoi: hilarious! did you notice they guy in your top photo is crying? .... about the sad state of his facial hair, obviously. he tries soo hard...)


Edit: hoi-- seriously, I think good ol carharts are the most durable and best for slab and ow. more protection and abrasion resistance. nylon w/ gore shell pants are really f-ing slick! bring a hat and emergency blanket if you want to stay warmer when going light. on walls there is really no excuse for being cold cause ya shoulda just brought another layer, you are probably hauling anyway. fleeces with windstopper are choice, it does make a difference, just got a nice patagonia at the outlet sale for cheap. the m.c. hammer pant is something people who boulder all the time would wear hehe... 

Big Wall Forum / Re: Ultra light carabiners for walls?
« on: March 18, 2009, 04:24:00 pm »
it is a thin move. the trick is to get as far left on the bomber hooks as possible cuz its a reach to get the crack and see.

brunch ledge is more sloping and grass but nice. no one freakin out on the kor roof, omg omg, hehe. picture a version of lay lady immaculate.

i scrambled left on easy exposed 5th and anchored off a couple of cams at the top of a steep corner. (you can keep going left to the top of odyssey ow pitch where there are some blocks in the 6" crack, old slings, sharp edges, didn't rap here). the rap is close to  140'. go down and right from brunch to check out ancient hardwear on the odyssey fragile flake pitch and mini traxion back up. be sweet to link up odyssey to south central.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Ultra light carabiners for walls?
« on: March 18, 2009, 08:56:43 am »
there used to be a fixed stopper in that thin crack too. do you remember what you used in there?

that was my stopper, no joke. a wild country rock, actually. it was under the slight bulge when you hook out left and gain the splitter for a couple of moves. is that the one you are talking about, munge? it is gone now.

anyone ever climb the ledges left and down, past the upper bivy where S. Man starts? you end up on "brunch ledge" with a rappell, a nice little hanging meadow away from the insanity of dinner. pitch six and seven of the odyssey which start form there are reeediculous.

i'd love to do the full length of the column sometime.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Ultra light carabiners for walls?
« on: March 16, 2009, 09:18:27 am »
i think metolius is doing one of those small super lightweight biners for this summer. similar to the nano. forget what its gonna be called, maybe worth checking out, munge. you might just poo yerself.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Ultra light carabiners for walls?
« on: March 15, 2009, 02:12:52 pm »
metolius inferno wiregate. think inexpensive ultralight hotwire/superfly. 28kn. 10kn open. 35g. $7.95. surprised it didn't get more attention from all types of climbers. good stuff.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Alien cams
« on: March 09, 2009, 05:22:34 pm »
aliens get a bad rap.

....but i do remember my whole rig hanging from just 2 greens after the rest of my anchor blew out while hauling. not my day to die, i guess. i unclipped myself from the anchor while i figured out how to shore it up. good story. used up all my luck right there and then.

thanks cch, for making the bombdiggitty... most of the time.

Big Wall Forum / Re: Bolt kit bag
« on: March 09, 2009, 09:52:30 am »
Yates makes the best one, in my opinion.  Its their "bolt and tool bag" (part #453) $30. It has 4 small interior compartments plus the spacious main pouch. You can close it with one hand thanks to the fancy drawstring design. More durable than the Fixe bolt bag, which I blew out on its fa debut. It leaked buttonheads all route. The Yates makes for a good hook/beak bag or a personal gear bag for food/tape/ipod/windbreaker/special stuff. I think this is all we had for the RNWF and Shield in a day. The Yates professional line (work/rescue) has more stuff like this.

check it out @

Non Climbing (if you must) / FS: ****Wall Gear*****
« on: March 04, 2009, 10:41:09 am »
Edit: Y'all know what I have to sell... the Aztar Set and Touchstone Haulbag are a sure bet. Send me a message if you have questions.

Thanks to everyone who has helped me out so far.

Big Wall Forum / Re: What's everybody been climbing lately
« on: March 03, 2009, 11:15:26 am »
isnt the weather supposed to be shit again this weekend? 

Yep. Its snowing an honest 6-8 in/hr here in Truckee. Looks like it'll be a soggy weekend for the rest of California.

Big Wall Forum / Re: filed to a point cliff hanger
« on: March 03, 2009, 10:51:12 am »
Here's an image of a useful modified hook. The hook on the left is cut down, and filed to a rounded point. It is modified to work better on slabby placements. It does not pry off the feature you are hooking and is very stable. It also fits into pin scars and horizontal cracks better because it is not so tall. The hook on the right would probably shear off the edge it is placed on and needs more clearance

Super sharp or pointy hooks might not be the best option for fragile or soft rock. Always round them off a little.

Peace out.

Non Climbing (if you must) / FS: CCH Alien Set *NEW* Blue-Red $46ea.
« on: March 02, 2009, 09:04:11 am »
Edit: they are gone now, can't delete this post. thanks everyone.

Big Wall Forum / Re: North Dome Gully descent (pics)
« on: February 23, 2009, 04:22:05 pm »
Fix a rope from some trees on either end of the traverse. I have never seen it fixed. The heavier the loads, the sketchier it gets. It really isn't that bad without a haulbag on your back. But, if you did slip...

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